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Need a custom extreme heavy duty rim built for my Juiced ODK U500

XxXGodXxX

1 µW
Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Messages
3
Location
California
I'm a pretty heavy rider I weigh just under 400 lbs. I think my ODK is a V2 I bought it second hand from a ebike shop.The original 14g spokes broke and I got them replaced but the eyelets had to be drilled out to fit 12g spokes and the shop messed it up and I had to get a new rim, a odyssey rim, 110$. The best most heavy duty rim they make and is available on the market i was told. This rim and spokes were fine up until i got hit by a car and got a broken ankle, a herniated disc, and bike damage. I've had to replace the spokes multiple times now and a few months back the sidewall of the rim developed a crack and eventfully burst out. Since the accident i gained a lot of weight, I was working out and losing a lot of weight I was down to 330 but the pain has ruined that. Juiced support is nonexistent I've emailed a few times and didn't get anything of value to help me with my issues.

I never want to have another broken spoke or rim again. I need a custom heavy duty rim made. Preferably a solid steel/strong metal moped rim modified to work with the gear and 3 speed internal gear hub or maybe something I'm not even aware of. I don't remember where I got this moped rim mod idea or if it could even work, maybe its not the answer to my problem. I need suggestions on what i need and who can make it for me.
 
Thick spokes don't help, so let go of that misconception. The strength of the wheel comes from the rim. Spokes are there to support the rim, and they can't do a good job of that if they're too thick. Putting thicker spokes in a regular bike wheel is like putting the biggest stiffest truck springs you can find into a small economy car, to beef it up. It doesn't solve any problems, but it makes some.

Also, spokes don't usually break because they were overloaded. They usually break because the wheel was poorly built originally, or because they're not good quality. Either way, it's not something you can fix effectively after they start breaking, other than to replace the spokes.

I build and service pedicab wheels that can carry 700 pounds or more, each wheel. What works best for that is lots of thin double butted spokes (in this case, 48 14-15ga spokes), a massive double-walled rim, and plenty of initial spoke tension.

You can get a moped rim that will accept the same size tire you already use. In the motorcycle world it's called 16 inch, but it's the same diameter as 20 inch bicycle wheels. Moto rims are weaker, pound for pound, than double walled bicycle rims, but they're so very heavy that they're usually much stronger overall.

If you use a moped rim, you may have to reconcile a large difference between the spoke gauge your hub is made for, and the spoke gauge the rim is made for. I recommend using the thinner spoke of the two, and using washers under the spoke nipple heads to make them fit the rim holes better.

I can tell you from lots of experience that you don't need motorcycle parts to get a good reliable wheel. You can use motorcycle parts to build a wheel that will be a constant maintenance hassle. What you need is to have a wheel built from good quality parts by someone who understands what he's doing.
 
999zip999 said:
You may need to put brass washers under the head ?

Brass washers are usually adequate for spoke heads, but steel or stainless steel washers work better for nipple heads.
 
I have more trouble with that had breaking off then I do with it breaking off after nipple but yes they have broken off at the nipple.
 
The spoke and the nipple must align. That is the most frequent problem when lacing a small wheel on a hub motor. Angled washers combined with angled oversize drilling are doing it but it doesn’t make it easy to build a wheel. That is why many are using motorcycle/moped rims. It is more work to make a proper job with a bicycle rim, while moto rims are already made for this angle, or close to it. Sapim Polyax nipples are helping a lot for that matter and they are also available to match smaller spokes to moto rims.
 
Balmorhea said:
What you need is to have a wheel built from good quality parts by someone who understands what he's doing.

I bought my bike from Electric Bicycle Center in Fullerton California. I also had them do all the wheel building, spoke relacing etc. They are pretty damn reputable. The owner Sam is good friends with and has been on Electricbikereview.com in fact my bike is actually in a video. I bought the bike just days after this was filmed. https://youtu.be/P_r2nZrjhvs?t=454

It was Sam that told me 12g spokes would be better for me. Sam isn't the owner anymore he retired not long ago but he made me pay for his mistake of drilling out the eyelets I had to buy a new rim he refused to replace it for free even though he destroyed it. That rubbed me the wrong way so i took my rebuilding elsewhere after that. The shop i went too initially did a great job they did a 4-cross spoke pattern something i didn't even know existed said it would be much stronger than the standard 2 cross i was using. Initially the spokes were very tight but after the first broken spokes after they relaced they would leave the spokes looser. I told them to tighten them but they told me looser was better for me. I never believed them thought they were lying but they didn't charge me when i kept coming back over and over again and did it for free.

I suspect the accident ruined the rim and thus weakened the spokes which lead to the cycle of broken spokes and the rim damage was severe enough, not visually, but a unseen weakness caused the sidewall to burst. Which is something I had never heard of before it happened It took me 30 minutes of searching online before i even found what the sidewall bursting problem was called. I've already had another rim built by another company, Bikecraze. They told me they had the best wheel builder In southern California rebuild my wheel but I haven't been able to test it yet my tired ripped when the rim sidewall burst and the only place you can buy the same tire is from China on either Ebay or Aliexpress.

As for the moped rim i was thinking of a solid spokeless design. Something like this https://www.mopeddivision.com/moped-make/tomos/16-black-rear-wheel-tomos-streetmate-237004/ I actually remembered where i got the Idea of moped stuff on my ebike. Sam said that could be an upgrade path for me but never gave specifics just that it would fit the frame and work and that he'd seen it before. Could you link me these rims and spokes you build with? I've spent a lot of hours trying to find heavy duty rims but I don't know enough about rims and the search terms i used don't lead me to what I imagine would be useful to me.

I've had my spokes break both at the nipple and the head. Its 50/50 I'd say but I haven't exactly payed close attention to the specifics. Also I've only had an issue with my rear wheel spokes. The spokes on my front wheel hub motor have never broken. My ebike is my only transportation. I'm too poor for a car and car insurance and with my ankle and back I can't pedal as much as i used too and as you can imagine not having any mode of transport is a big problem. I'm not working because of my ankle and back but if the pain can one day lessen and i can continue to work having no way to get to work would be an issue.
 
XxXGodXxX said:
It was Sam that told me 12g spokes would be better for me.

He's wrong.

The shop i went too initially did a great job they did a 4-cross spoke pattern something i didn't even know existed said it would be much stronger than the standard 2 cross i was using.

That's wrong too.

Initially the spokes were very tight but after the first broken spokes after they relaced they would leave the spokes looser. I told them to tighten them but they told me looser was better for me.

Also wrong.

I have no reason to believe that any of this was intended badly, but these folks clearly don't know what they're doing.

There are plenty of people on this forum, who've had all kinds of wheel problems and various remedies and should know better, who also believe, contrary to evidence, that thick spokes are better. They're also wrong.

Cross pattern has almost no effect on a wheel's strength. But if you use too many crossings on a hub with a big flange, or with a small diameter rim, the spoke will enter the rim at a queer angle, and will fatigue and break at the threaded end.

Cross-4 works fine on regular sized bicycle hubs with full sized rims and at least 36 holes. I've used cross-5 on 48 hole hubs, and even cross-7 on 72 hole hubs. But when the hub is large in diameter like an internal gear hub or a hub motor, too many crossings cause problems. Same when the rim is small in diameter. Most hub motors work best with cross-1 lacing, and most of the rest need radial (cross zero) lacing, like what the ODK bike comes with in front. For a regular high flange bike hub and a 20" rim, cross-2 is about right.

The heavier you load a wheel, the more important it is to have plenty of spoke tension. Spokes don't get significantly tighter from normal riding loads, but the spokes on the bottom of a loaded wheel lose tension when the rim flexes inward. The looser they are to start with, the less load it takes to make them go slack. Once they go slack, structually speaking they are missing from the wheel, and can't support the rim. So you want the spokes to be good and tight, and thin, to give a wheel the maximum possible load capacity before spokes go slack.

A rim that's been crash damaged will have loose and tight spots that weaken the wheel and predispose it to more damage. If you're pushing your equipment to beyond normal limits, you may be better off replacing a bent rim with new, even if it's possible to true it into cosmetically good shape.

How do you propose to straighten that mag wheel if you bend it out of true? Because sooner or later, you'll probably bend it out of true.
 
Balmorhea said:
There are plenty of people on this forum, who've had all kinds of wheel problems and various remedies and should know better, who also believe, contrary to evidence, that thick spokes are better. They're also wrong.
This is hard for me to believe frankly. It makes logical sense that a thicker piece of metal is gonna be stronger and more durable than a thinner piece of metal. In my own experience ebike and regular bike 12g has served me much better. Before the accident I had no issues with my new spokes. And my beach cruiser hybrid which i had the wheel relaced with 12g never broke a spoke again either. Prior to the 12g spokes on that I would snap spokes on all my previous bikes.

Cross pattern has almost no effect on a wheel's strength. But if you use too many crossings on a hub with a big flange, or with a small diameter rim, the spoke will enter the rim at a queer angle, and will fatigue and break at the threaded end.

Cross-4 works fine on regular sized bicycle hubs with full sized rims and at least 36 holes. I've used cross-5 on 48 hole hubs, and even cross-7 on 72 hole hubs. But when the hub is large in diameter like an internal gear hub or a hub motor, too many crossings cause problems. Same when the rim is small in diameter. Most hub motors work best with cross-1 lacing, and most of the rest need radial (cross zero) lacing, like what the ODK bike comes with in front. For a regular high flange bike hub and a 20" rim, cross-2 is about right.

This all makes sense to me. Here's a picture i just took of my wheel so you know exactly what I'm working with. https://imgur.com/a/RsVqJxO A internal geared hub isn't exactly what it is. I'm not sure of the name of this system it has 3 gears and removable a nail spring like thing comes out of the hole in the axle. It goes into a external hub that attaches to the nut.

The heavier you load a wheel, the more important it is to have plenty of spoke tension. Spokes don't get significantly tighter from normal riding loads, but the spokes on the bottom of a loaded wheel lose tension when the rim flexes inward. The looser they are to start with, the less load it takes to make them go slack. Once they go slack, structurally speaking they are missing from the wheel, and can't support the rim. So you want the spokes to be good and tight, and thin, to give a wheel the maximum possible load capacity before spokes go slack.
This is what I believed to be true.
A rim that's been crash damaged will have loose and tight spots that weaken the wheel and predispose it to more damage. If you're pushing your equipment to beyond normal limits, you may be better off replacing a bent rim with new, even if it's possible to true it into cosmetically good shape.
I forgot about this but this is what happened. My rim was bent slightly I didn't notice it myself but Sam was able to get it trued cosmetically as you said.
How do you propose to straighten that mag wheel if you bend it out of true? Because sooner or later, you'll probably bend it out of true.
I can't say I would expect a moped wheel to bend or break. They are designed for much more force than the 20 mph my ODK is capable of. Maybe its not the right way to fix my problem. I really don't know, I'm not very knowledgeable on bikes or bike repair. Maybe a fair bit more than random guy off the street but I can't even figure out how to get my brakes to work properly. I've watched youtube tutorial after youtube tutorial and I just can't do what they do. Seems like wizardry. Again could you link me what rim and spokes you think i should use. You seem to be very knowledgeable.
 
^
It makes logical sense that a thicker piece of metal is gonna be stronger and more durable than a thinner piece of metal. In my own experience ebike and regular bike 12g has served me much better. Before the accident I had no issues with my new spokes. And my beach cruiser hybrid which i had the wheel relaced with 12g never broke a spoke again either. Prior to the 12g spokes on that I would snap spokes on all my previous bikes.

Maybe y our "prior to 12g spokes" were just built wrong, like your current problem.

These guys are the e-bike industry experts and innovators and yet they do not sell 12g spokes. You can buy 13g and 13/14g but there are no 12g spokes for sale by them. There must be a reason for that, I am sure they could make a ton of money with people wanting 12g spokes on their motors. No no they dont sell 12g because if they did, people would ask for them and it doesnt make for a stronger wheel.

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/spokes.html
 
XxXGodXxX said:
Balmorhea said:
There are plenty of people on this forum, who've had all kinds of wheel problems and various remedies and should know better, who also believe, contrary to evidence, that thick spokes are better. They're also wrong.
This is hard for me to believe frankly. It makes logical sense that a thicker piece of metal is gonna be stronger and more durable than a thinner piece of metal. In my own experience ebike and regular bike 12g has served me much better.

It’s not a spoke’s job to be as strong as possible. It must be strong enough, while also having enough elasticity to follow the rim as it flexes, without going slack. That implies strong material, but thin diameter. A spoke is a very specialized kind of spring. You don’t want a spring to be as strong as possible— you want it strong enough, but also stretchy enough to do its job. The spring action of a spoke is lengthwise, like a rubber band. Even a thin one is very stiff in that direction, which can work okay because a rim doesn’t deflect very much when it’s supported by spokes all the way around. But if you substitute a spoke that’s too thick for the rim, it’s not stretchy enough to follow the rim as it squishes under load, and the spoke goes slack for the moment it’s loaded. When spokes go slack, the rim loses support, and it squishes more, which makes other spokes go slack, etc.

The end result is the spokes won’t stay tight, they leave larger and larger spans of rim unsupported, and they move around and cause cracks in the rims and ovalized hub holes. Anybody who has used 12ga or thicker spokes in regular bicycle rims for very long has had to deal with some or all of this. Chronic chafing (fretting) from unwanted movement at the spoke elbow can even cause the spokes to get surface cracks and break, despite being thicker and stronger than ones that don’t break.

The set of wheels I have used the longest, since 2002, with no broken spokes or out-of-true problems at all, have very thin 15-16ga spokes (1.8-1.6mm). But there are 48 of them per wheel, and good strong tandem rims with double eyelets. I have replaced axles on them, even switched them among different bikes. But the spokes need no attention, despite having accumulated lots of miles as a daily commuter.

I think most of the people who mistakenly favor heavy spokes with bicycle rims are comparing only against their earlier wheels that had problems, but that’s not a good comparison. Most likely those were sloppily built without stress relieving (like most OEM wheels), or else made from cheap junky components (like most OEM wheels), or both. But rather than get a good wheel built carefully with proven parts, they skip straight to the Lincoln Logs and decide it’s better. In a lot of cases, spoke breakages will actually go away if you do that. But the spokes won’t stay tight, the wheel won’t stay true, and the rim gets puckered or cracked sooner or later. You may or may not break spokes, but you don’t get a dependable, low maintenance wheel.

Mopeds may move faster than your bike, but they usually have much less gross weight. You can hope you’ll never knock a pig-heavy mag wheel out of true, but keep in mind those things are much more heavy than strong. If their strength-to-weight ratio were comparable to wire wheels, you’d see lighter versions of them on bicycles and motocross bikes everywhere. Cast aluminum mags had their day on BMX and freestyle bikes in the ‘70s and early ‘80s. What we learned was that they are really heavy, not particularly strong, and not repairable when they get bent. There are Chinese aluminum bicycle mags on eBay, if you feel like making that mistake for yourself decades later.

If I had your bike and I wanted to run it at 500 pounds gross, I’d use a hefty freestyle rim like Sun Big Baller. For spokes, DT Swiss or Sapim 14-15ga double butted if I could get the right length, 13-14ga single butted if not. I’d lace cross-2 to a 3-speed hub like what you’ve got, or cross-1 to a larger diameter hub like Sturmey Archer RX-RK5. Turn up all the spokes to at least 120kgf of tension. Stress-relieve thoroughly.
 
Forum member John at Holmes Hobbies builds quality wheels for ebikes, so contact him. In the future, don't ignore things like a cracked rim. That could get you hurt bad, and you got lucky that your cracked rim failed in a manner that wasn't catastrophic.
 
You are getting a lot of good info from Balmorhea, all of his points have been bang on.

It really bugs me when the "pros" doll out bad advice like suggesting 4x lacing on a 20" wheel with large flanges or reducing tension for spoke breakage. The major issue I see with your wheel is the bend where the spokes come out of the nipple, that should never happen. I'd rebuild it with butted spokes and make sure it's properly stress relieved, you shouldn't hear any pinging, popping, or groaning from the wheel/spokes.

A source for good heavy duty 36 hole 20" rims that might not be immediately obvious is the unicycle industry. I was going to steer you to Unicycle.com but the only 20" rim they have in stock at their USA store does not have a breaking surface.

If you are willing to lose the gears in the hub and never worry about spokes you could get a mag wheel from an old BMX though I am skeptical about claims that they are stronger than a well built spoked wheel.
 
^Cast wheels, like from Leafbike and Leafmotor are only for their 1000W models, not 1500W models. Not as easy to fix a broken cast wheel then a spoked rim wheel.

$125usd which they increased from a year ago from $90, hopefully they reduced the shipping. You will have to go through the order process in order to get the shipping price.
Cast wheel - https://www.leafbike.com/products/e-bike-hub-motor/18-inch-casted-hub-with-magnet-976.html

Motors with cast come in 18 and 20"
List of every motor - https://www.leafbike.com/products/e-bike-hub-motor/18-inch-casted-hub-with-magnet-976.html

16" available
14" tire mounted to hub wheels available
 
Most Ebike cast motor wheels are sh*t. You will crack or bend one in no time and will have to wait because they can’t be fixed most of the time. There are some good cast motor wheels, but they are on big motors and bolt-on type, so they can be replaced.
 
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