Need buying advice

I do want pedal assist because i still would like to get some excercise while riding.Is there anything i should look for or avoid with the pedal assist?
This page tells you a fair bit about PAS options


The main thing with PAS is that almost no systems use PAS to control the amount of assist you get. They only turn the assist on, at full amount of the chosen assist level, if you are pedalling at all, and turn it off completley if you stop pedalling.

Most of them have different speeds for the assist levels, so if you pedal at all, the system will just do it's best to get you to the speed limit of the chosen assist level and hold you there, and if you stop pedalling it stops assisting at all. Even if you are trying to pedal slowly, but you're in an assist level for a faster speed, it's going to try ot get and hold you at the higher speed.

Some of them ahve the option for a "simulated torque" or power mode instead, so the assist levels equate to some amount of push instead of speed, but they still operate the same way--all or nothing.

Some of the open source firmwares OSFW you can flash / DIY into certain controller models/brands, and devices like the Cycle Analyst v3.x from ebikes.ca , allow you to use actual real cadence control of the system, so your pedalling speed actually varies the motor output directly.

Some systems (including the last ones above) also allow using torque sensors to tell how hard you're pushing on the pedals to vary the motor output. Some of them are more complex than others to setup, and most of them use some combination of torque and cadence to do this, so you may have to pedal at a certain rate to allow the torque sensor to work, etc.


if you have other questions let me know and I'll clarify whatever I can.


FWIW, you don't need PAS to get exercise while riding. You can use a throttle to control the motor along with your pedalling easily enough, with a bit of practice.

I did that for years on various builds before I built the SB Cruiser and eventually modified it for cadence-only PAS to fully control the 2WD dual motor setup on the back wheels of the trike, using a crank cadence sensor*** feeding into the Cycle Analyst v3, to vary the speed of the trike by varying my pedalling speed. The CAv3 just makes a throttle signal that tells "dumb" controllers (without assist levels, etc) what to do.

You can use "smart" controllers too, but the more smarts the controller has, the more complex the system can be to setup and work the way you want since you have interactions between the controller smarts and the CA smarts and the varying riding conditions and your input.....



***mine is integrated into the BB witha torque sensor but I'm not using hte torque sensor at present. The first link in this post shows a number of ways the sensors are made, so you can pick the one that works for you.
 
This page tells you a fair bit about PAS options


The main thing with PAS is that almost no systems use PAS to control the amount of assist you get. They only turn the assist on, at full amount of the chosen assist level, if you are pedalling at all, and turn it off completley if you stop pedalling.

Most of them have different speeds for the assist levels, so if you pedal at all, the system will just do it's best to get you to the speed limit of the chosen assist level and hold you there, and if you stop pedalling it stops assisting at all. Even if you are trying to pedal slowly, but you're in an assist level for a faster speed, it's going to try ot get and hold you at the higher speed.

Some of them ahve the option for a "simulated torque" or power mode instead, so the assist levels equate to some amount of push instead of speed, but they still operate the same way--all or nothing.

Some of the open source firmwares OSFW you can flash / DIY into certain controller models/brands, and devices like the Cycle Analyst v3.x from ebikes.ca , allow you to use actual real cadence control of the system, so your pedalling speed actually varies the motor output directly.

Some systems (including the last ones above) also allow using torque sensors to tell how hard you're pushing on the pedals to vary the motor output. Some of them are more complex than others to setup, and most of them use some combination of torque and cadence to do this, so you may have to pedal at a certain rate to allow the torque sensor to work, etc.


if you have other questions let me know and I'll clarify whatever I can.


FWIW, you don't need PAS to get exercise while riding. You can use a throttle to control the motor along with your pedalling easily enough, with a bit of practice.

I did that for years on various builds before I built the SB Cruiser and eventually modified it for cadence-only PAS to fully control the 2WD dual motor setup on the back wheels of the trike, using a crank cadence sensor*** feeding into the Cycle Analyst v3, to vary the speed of the trike by varying my pedalling speed. The CAv3 just makes a throttle signal that tells "dumb" controllers (without assist levels, etc) what to do.

You can use "smart" controllers too, but the more smarts the controller has, the more complex the system can be to setup and work the way you want since you have interactions between the controller smarts and the CA smarts and the varying riding conditions and your input.....



***mine is integrated into the BB witha torque sensor but I'm not using hte torque sensor at present. The first link in this post shows a number of ways the sensors are made, so you can pick the one that works for you.
After reading a bit about that i think what I'll do is buy a kit with a basic PAS sensor.That will get me on the road the quickest and i can always upgrade my system later if i want more.Thank you
 
Would i be better off buying the components seperately rather than a kit?
A kit will be less expensive, even if you don't use all of the part. My first build was a 1000W MXUS kit from ebay. It was $144 including shipping and had all necessary parts but a battery. I never used the kit controller, since I wanted a sine wave controller to keep the bike silent, but even with that, it was still cheaper than buying everything plus the misc parts, like PAS sensor, throttle, brake levers, etc. separately. You can upgrade components as you go along (when you know more about what works for your riding), but at least your up and running quickly.
 
Cheap yes but today kits do have sine wave and display.
So how fast do you want to go what are your heels what's your terrain is it purely flat Street ?
How much money do you want to spend on your first bill ?
Do you have a multimeter ? There's cheap as 399 from harbor freight. Then do you have a soldering iron ?
 
Hilly but not really steep or long.Probably start with something basic and not too expensive.And i have tools.
 
Just get an inexpensive front sinewave kit that fits your fork with a good torque arm, not too thin. Get a good battery with charger . Where do you live it makes a difference of where you get your battery.
Yes that mid drive kit with the chain would be quite noisy . My 1,100usd cyc pro gen 2 kit is nosey.
 
Does this look like a DD motor? They say It's gearedView attachment 351236
That image of the ad shows three different motor wheels. The one you have selected, whose image is also in the large image pane on the left, is almost certainly a DD hub. The other two are much smaller and are probably geared hubs.

If you post a link to the actual page (for anything you want info on) it would be much more helpful, as we could see all of the info on the page ourselves and help you sort it out.
 
That image of the ad shows three different motor wheels. The one you have selected, whose image is also in the large image pane on the left, is almost certainly a DD hub. The other two are much smaller and are probably geared hubs.

If you post a link to the actual page (for anything you want info on) it would be much more helpful, as we could see all of the info on the page ourselves and help you sort it out.
Thanks,I'm going to order from Ebay as the price is the same and the listings are a little more clear.I'm thinking of buying some Headway 40152 cells from battery hookup and making my pack. I imagine some of the packs sold on Amazon and Ebay Ext probably Don't have the best quality cells in them.
 
If anyone has any suggestions for a decent bms please let me know.
 
I have a battery very much like that, but high energy rather than high power. For nominally 44V/47Ah, I think the size and weight is a good bargain. For only 25Ah, I think I'd only choose that pack if I needed big amps.

For what it's worth, the first battery I built was 48V/25Ah and only a little bit lighter weight than the battery you linked (the same weight ready to go in its rack mount bag as that naked module). After a bunch of years, it still works great because it had such a surplus of power to begin with. So that's a point in favor of the high power module.
 
I have a battery very much like that, but high energy rather than high power. For nominally 44V/47Ah, I think the size and weight is a good bargain. For only 25Ah, I think I'd only choose that pack if I needed big amps.

For what it's worth, the first battery I built was 48V/25Ah and only a little bit lighter weight than the battery you linked (the same weight ready to go in its rack mount bag as that naked module). After a bunch of years, it still works great because it had such a surplus of power to begin with. So that's a point in favor of the high power module.
Would there be any issue that It's only 12s? It's usually 13s for 48v right?
 
Would there be any issue that It's only 12s? It's usually 13s for 48v right?
You'll need a 12S charger or power supply to charge it. If you can't program your controller, you'll hit LVC at about 3.35V/cell (which is a good thing for cell health).

I use KT controllers usually, and I configure LVC to kick in at 38V instead of 40V. But I've never let any of my 44V packs drop that low yet. My dual motor bike has a KT controller plus a generic sensorless controller for the other motor, which cuts off at about 41V. So I have dropped far enough under load with my 44V/20Ah pack that the rear motor cut off.
 
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Well everything is ordered.Kinda bummed i was hoping to contribute something here besides just a plug n play hub motor and battery but it seemed like the best option for me right now.Maybe I'll build that electric dirt bike I've always wanted this summer.Thanks to everyone that replied and gave me advice,much apreciated.
 
Just out of curiosity does this tell me anything about my motor?1713650383733.jpeg
 
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