New Bafang Crank-Drives

OK - here are some pictures of my caliper-braked, 20" wheel TSR with BBS03 250W/36V fitted. Still have a few things to sort out and optimise - chain line, rear dynamo light and the (very) occasional 'catch' in the drive train which feels like a stiff or skipping link but isn't (as far as I can see).

A few quick turns up and down the street confirmed that increasing the chain ring by 8 teeth (using e-ride's spider and a 56T chain ring) has more-or-less resolved the 'spinning out' cadence issue I previously faced in both throttle and PAS modes. I suspect a 60T might be even better but 56 seems to work OK thus far.

Battery is a specially made (for dimensions) 36V/10AH Ping. Can you guess where it is?

Savvas.
 

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Tom L
you can try to contact Amy at Ge battery.She was able to get me a new controller for my bbs02 500w 48v.Her adress: amy@gebattery.co
But she said it is a new connector on this new controller that is available around 20.mars.
Here is what she told me:
Amy Ke: i got news from 8fun,they donot produce bbs in old connector motor ,if we provide you a controller with new connector ,which can not match your old connector, i am thinking how to solve this problem ,hope you can give an idea

48v750w controller in new connector is available

Amy Ke: i am not sure if it work for you to change two eb-bus into one (use half the old one to connect the small parts and the new eb-bus that can give you to connect the motor ),Are you ok with this idea?
 
Tom L said:
Guess who has bricked his motor controller serial interface? :cry:

Bugger.

I know you have checked the display but on page 60 (2/3rds the way down) to this thread another member reported the same error as yours and swapped out the display and everything worked.
 
Hi, some advice please:
I just bought a Giant Anthem X 29er. It has a Shimano M552 24x32x42T crankset,
Shimano Press Fit bottom bracket. Would I be able to use the Bafang crank-drive with this bb, and would I be able to keep the crankset, using some sort of adaptor?
Thanks
Peter
 
Rim21 said:
Tom L said:
Guess who has bricked his motor controller serial interface? :cry:

Bugger.

I know you have checked the display but on page 60 (2/3rds the way down) to this thread another member reported the same error as yours and swapped out the display and everything worked.

Actually I just double checked it. There is data on the TXD line if I lift it from the display PCB. Hard to tell using a DMM and not an oscilloscope but it does look like data is coming back from the controller. When I solder the TXD line back in the display PCB the line doesn't modulate anywhere near as far below 5v. It's as if the display is trying to hold the line high. Which is a strange fault. Usually if the protection diodes in an IC are damaged the input will go open circuit. Maybe a new display is worth a try. If it works I'll have the plug from the old one as a programming lead. Bloody expensive way to do it though.
 
PRW, maybe you could use something like this adapter in order to get the unit mounted to your frame? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/sram-press-fit-30-to-bsa-adaptor-kit/rp-prod71306

Press fit BBs are such a load of crap. Some changes to bikes are progress, and other's are just crap slapped on so that there's something new each year to try to keep us spending money.
 
TroySmith80 said:
PRW, maybe you could use something like this adapter in order to get the unit mounted to your frame? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/sram-press-fit-30-to-bsa-adaptor-kit/rp-prod71306

Press fit BBs are such a load of crap. Some changes to bikes are progress, and other's are just crap slapped on so that there's something new each year to try to keep us spending money.
That's great, thanks - didn't know such things existed!
 
Tom L said:
Rim21 said:
Tom L said:
Guess who has bricked his motor controller serial interface? :cry:

Bugger.

I know you have checked the display but on page 60 (2/3rds the way down) to this thread another member reported the same error as yours and swapped out the display and everything worked.

Actually I just double checked it. There is data on the TXD line if I lift it from the display PCB. Hard to tell using a DMM and not an oscilloscope but it does look like data is coming back from the controller. When I solder the TXD line back in the display PCB the line doesn't modulate anywhere near as far below 5v. It's as if the display is trying to hold the line high. Which is a strange fault. Usually if the protection diodes in an IC are damaged the input will go open circuit. Maybe a new display is worth a try. If it works I'll have the plug from the old one as a programming lead. Bloody expensive way to do it though.

You can get displays from http://www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-8fun-motor-bbs-01-lcd-display.html

I'll donate towards one for you - you're doing all this testing for all of us after all.
 
Thanks Hoka!

I've read all messages in this thread before ordering my own BBS02, and was ultimately waiting for this soft to come out :)

Can someone here confirm it works on their own BBS02 , and the required steps to update a BBS without bricking it by using a wrong sequence before trying a write to flash operation.

Would you suggest ordering from Amy at GE on Aliexpress? It looks way cheaper this way.

Glad to have found and READ this thread :)

Noisette
 
BMSbattery.com seems to be cheaper, only slightly. But I have not bought from them personally.

http://www.bmsbattery.com/central-motor/646-48v350w-bbs01-bafang-central-motor.html
 
hoka said:
for a very limited time, here is the software:

https://mega.co.nz/#!WEtQWIJb!65_2CJqOXTE--3h1HbrvqnB_18xRVUCDu-CBHp36IAo

Hoka,

I tried downloading the file. I managed to download controllerst.zip from the link, but the zip folder is empty.

Is there more? Did I miss something? Or are you just yanking all our chains?
 
mushymelon said:

Do we reckon "work mode" is crank rpm?

Oh, and current controlled throttle option -)

teslanv said:
hoka said:
for a very limited time, here is the software:

https://mega.co.nz/#!WEtQWIJb!65_2CJqOXTE--3h1HbrvqnB_18xRVUCDu-CBHp36IAo

Hoka,

I tried downloading the file. I managed to download controllerst.zip from the link, but the zip folder is empty.

Is there more? Did I miss something? Or are you just yanking all our chains?

Mine downloaded fine - screenshot of zip contents:-

Untitled_zps34522815.png
 
amigafan2003 said:
mushymelon said:

Do we reckon "work mode" is crank rpm?

Oh, and current controlled throttle option -)

teslanv said:
hoka said:
for a very limited time, here is the software:

https://mega.co.nz/#!WEtQWIJb!65_2CJqOXTE--3h1HbrvqnB_18xRVUCDu-CBHp36IAo

Hoka,

I tried downloading the file. I managed to download controllerst.zip from the link, but the zip folder is empty.

Is there more? Did I miss something? Or are you just yanking all our chains?

Mine downloaded fine - screenshot of zip contents:-

Untitled_zps34522815.png

Maybe it's down already then.

Would someone mind reposting the file?
 
All installed:-

IMAG05841_zpsac8c87d3.jpg


Battery box has 6 packs in it and saddle bag has 3 packs in it = 15s3p 12Ah in total. Wooden box in frame is temporary until I can figure a more elegant solution out (Kepler? ;) ).

Added a volt meter to keep an eye on voltages:-

IMAG0568_zps74ds8j6v.jpg

IMAG0570_zpsnfnpbsr9.jpg

IMAG0573_zpscn8bmwa3.jpg


Pulled the hall sensor out of the brake switch and Araldited it to the brake lever with a big neodymium magnet for brake cut off.

IMAG0569_zpsrkrdtfxa.jpg
 
And my next problem is...
20140307_174813.jpg
Both sides broke on the swingarm.
At least this seemed to solve my speed sensor issue for a while. :? The frame break cut all the wires for me, so its reasonable that it doesn't work anymore. The magnet was in the correct position - it worked for a few weeks and then died while I was riding. It was nice to have my speed on the handle bars, but the biggest thing was being able to change the amount of assist. Thanks for the suggestions though.
Now, to get a new bike. Anyone used an Iron horse Yakuza? I've spent too much money already on this thing, so I'm going cheap. I had just bought new disc brakes and derailleur before it broke. The triangle isn't very open on the Yakuza, but I plan on using a seat rack for the batteries if needed.
 
Dirk,
What make/model is that frame that you've snapped?
Have you been doing jumps with it or hopping off the curb?
What's the weight of you + motor + batteries?
 
EVTodd said:
So I'm guessing this is copyrighted software Bafang doesn't want out in the public?
The vendor I purchased from says it's some of Bafang's software which will reprogram some of the parameters, but apparently there is an alternate firmware that does something else, and that's not in the folder.

Has anyone figured out what parameters this software controls?
 
OK.

Fired up the software and poked around a bit.

Looks like this programming only has options for a maximum speed of 40 km/h. No Unlimited speed option that I can see.

Looks like the PAS settings can be adjusted, though.

Anyone figure out how to transfer it to the unit yet?
 
I'm waiting on parts to arrive. You will need a TTL serial interface, something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718

You will also need a 5 pin connector, like the one on the display (http://i.imgur.com/7DaWbi3.jpg). I now have a kaput display and will be salvaging the connector from this. It's a an expensive way to do it though. You could also replace the display and harness 5pin connectors with any suitable type that you can obtain. Get a spare socket and use this to wire up your programming cable. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before cutting the old connector off the wiring harness. It carries the full battery voltage (P+ line).

Short the P+ and PL pins together in the programming cable. Hook it up to the controller and you should be able to read from and write to it with the software. Read in your existing settings first and save them to a file somewhere safe before making any changes.

I'll do a proper write up with photos in a couple of weeks when the bits I've ordered have arrived and I've had time to test it.

Ideally we need to find a source of the 5 pin connectors. I've had no luck so far.
 
This thread has made for some great reading, thanks! It looks like we in Tasmania are in for a law change from 200W to 250W 25km/h pedelec so an electric bike is starting to look like a good option. But the few shops still only have rubbish and it makes it hard to actually see any of the options.

From what I've read the Bafang mid drive conversion is nearly ideal for me. My main concern is my 10 minute morning downhill commute, which starts on a steep dirt track and ends flat out in city traffic. Given that I can't legally the use motor over 25km/h, is it likely to add resistance when pedaling fast unassisted? Or does the freewheel actions take care of this? Or is there something else I don't understand?

If it all goes well maybe I'll build something more powerful to get me up the mountain at my back door. Cheers.
 
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