new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Do you study any of the other subforums or other threads here on E-S? It is a tremendous resource, just studying how others are progressing in their projects and coming up with great ingenious methods has opened up my own horizons.

Yea.

I kinda do.

Check this out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hE3dkwtb03w

Since everyone seems to be posting here I do not need to ne in the spotlight. I am here to learn. That video shows a 12V solution on a budget that is probably cheap and efficient. Very easy to achieve and desirable/rewardable for any e bike builder. I would love all feedback on that.

I am waiting on bafang controllers until April and the bike shop to true my wheel. I do not want to uninstall a motor when all needs to be done is the wheel straightened. It is just a stupid idea. By trial an error I do succeed and that chain drive is one success if the wheel was straight.

I wont say the same for the 1,800W chain drive or the Currie rear chain drive but have a plan to reinstall them so they will work. I will make them work.

However discussing my short comings and how to overcome them is pretty much redundant. We all know and agree that almost anyone can buy a hub kit and install it but not hook up a chain drive and make it work for 5 or 10 seconds. I have made them work for days , weeks and months.

Let's try to clarify your goals. Without clear goals you're like a plastic bag blowing around in the wind. Every day haphazard and something different. Put something together then end up ripping it back apart. Gotta set the objective and then make a plan to get there.

(Maybe I was mistaken but) I thought you were trying to build a 40 MPH ebike on a tight budget. That's going to be real difficult unless you cut corners in several places. And there are probably not many here that can (or would want to) offer too much help on that.

Then I got confused did you change your plan, looked like a 89 MPH e-moto or something?

No plan changed. Just a few different plans and goals. I like to build all types of e bikes. I like to build them as much as ride them. So I need to learn how to do it better. Improve , and upgrade current builds on a budget. I have 5 and looking at 7 e bikes in near future.

I want to know more about that video I posted and where to order that motor. Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Motor
Motor2

Better method!
[youtube]_QZEvTVzdnM[/youtube]

Rear mount recommended!

 

[latecurtis]

Yes.

It is defiantly worth doing. It would be great for Easy street. The 700c Giant Cypress hybrid.

Hub motors for 700c and up wheels are more expensive and difficult to find.

Even if I do get the Bafang motors working why would I want to put 26" wheels on a bike built for 700c wheels. It is just wrong !

26" wheels on a 27.5" bike can work if set up for disk. The 26" dual suspension is really a 27.5" frame but have been running 26" wheels since I had it.

I will be using that motor for Easy street then. Easy street will be pedal assist as has all 21 gears working and has good brakes so is perfect for that.

I found more hub cover bolts last night or early this morning so with a sensor less controller the 26" dual suspension should be reliable. Also a rear 26" rim is really not that expensive brand new. I will call around tomorrow and see if there is a local bike shop willing to put the freewheel off the bent rim on a new rim if I buy it there.

I will remove the 89T sprocket before going there as all bike shops are not willing to work on anything motorized unless they sell the e bike. Some shops do and some don't. All I really need to do is remove the three steel strap clamps that hold the motor to get the wheel off. I do not have to loosen all those carriage bolts. However I would like to buy 3 more of those straps as sometimes when you re use them they break. They are not meant to use several times. Two or three times mabye.

I think the 26" dual suspension is still worth building and making it right. As for the Currie and the 20" bike with the 1,800W motor I am going to re mount those motors and do a better job than I did before. I am on my way to Wall-Mart for a new jigsaw. I should have enough bolts. I do want to get rid of that huge 60T spoke sprocket though as attaching a sprocket to spokes tends to warp the wheel over time. It is not nearly as good as a sprocket that bolts to the freewheel.

I will probably install the 1,800W brushless motor to the Currie and the 750W gear reduction motor to the 20" bike as then all it will need is a freewheel. It won't need a sprocket. The Currie will need a sprocket that bolts to the freewheel though. First I have to test the 1,500W controller to see if it still works. It could be as simple as a broken sensor wire maybe. Not sure.

Throwing out three or four chain drive motors and ordering brand new hub motors sounds like a waste of money. If I can make them work WITHOUT spending a lot of money then it is worth trying.

However I am going to take Markz advice next week and ordering a hub motor and putting it on the 27.5" Silver Dimond Back.

For prosperity reasons I left the last paragraph in full. I will put my vote in to install a hub motor onto which ever bicycle fits you the best.

That will be my main reliable bike or the one good clean build.

All the other e bikes will just be hobbies and will have like a $50 to $100 dollar budget for my hobbies which includes the self start motors , cheap RC motors , chain drives etc.. Some people spend hundreds of bucks a month on RC cars , drones etc.. Some people spend thousands of bucks a month at a horse racing track or lottery tickets , casino , dangerous drugs , etc.. You all can say what you want about me spending lots of money on e bikes and my e bike workshop but the bottom line is there are hundreds of other ways to waste money that are much worse.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Read the specs on the 1500w!
48V x 26A = 1248w x 90% = 1123 max possible watt output.

Starter motor is designed for brief use, a few seconds only. Don't expect it to survive very long!

 

[latecurtis]

Read the specs on the 1500w!
48V x 26A = 1248w x 90% = 1123 max possible watt output.

Starter motor is designed for brief use, a few seconds only. Don't expect it to survive very long!

OH.

Ok.

Thanks. I did not order it yet. I am waiting until the third when my disability check is here. Maybe not until the end of next week as I have rent and there is a limit as to how much I can withdraw from the ATM a day.

I just want the one good reliable build. The one tomjasz and Markz advise me to do. A brand spanking new hub motor powerful enough for almost any hill without having to worry about chains popping off and sensor wires that I soldered failing.

The 20" turbo out in the van is the most reliable bike right now but is a kids bike basically. DA. called it "the heavy hauler" way back when I bought it at least 5 maybe 6 years ago I think. It is 800 watts @ 48V but don't think I ever ran it more than 36V.

When I do get a 1,500 watt brand new kit it will be my most reliable bike and at least 26" which suits me the best.

As far as that starter motor maybe I should look at a small RC motor instead. It might last longer but try and mount it similar to the way they mounted the starter motor. It is a project though. Not a good reliable build for daily commute.

If anyone does see a 1,500 watt rear hub motor with decent specs under $200 please post it. $198 or $199 + tax works but am not going much over $200.

I have a van and the 20" turbo so am not in any rush. I also have the Giant Roam and still need to test drive it. That should be considered as my one good build but nobody gives me any credit for that. The thing is though the front wheel and hub motor is 700c. Not really good for the bike trail. (dirt and gravel).

The Silver Dimond Back has really wide mountain bike tires. I really want a 27.5" hub motor as wanted to use those tires but is hard to find. If I do go with 26" I want to be able to put a tire on it just as wide as the front which is 27.5" and am leaving it on there. I will have to run 26" back and 27.5" front unless I can get a 27.5" rear hub motor kit. That would be ideal.

Please Post a link if you see one. I have about 4 or 5 days before I place an order.

Thanks.

LC. out.

9:19 PM - 2/28/21

Yea. I just could not live with the rear motor mounted like that.

Yea. I know what you are all thinking. plywood ?????

I found that piece in the dumpster on my back walking to the post office last week.

The way I mounted the motor before with a 2 by 6 did work and held up about a year or so. Maybe 100 miles I think and only had to tighten the chain up a few times. I was not using the metal strap clamps though. I am cutting the plywood in a similar way and using fiberglass resin to stick the plywood together. It is 5/8" thick so two pieces together will be 1 - 1/4'' thick for top and bottom brace. I can cut out all four pieces with the brand new jig saw I got today at Wall-Mart.

I can also cover the entire braces with fiberglass resin and let dry 24 hours before drilling holes for the carriage bolts. Then add a couple coats of oil base paint so the braces will be completely water and weather proof.

Note in the bottom pic the large steel framework of the Currie. I can run a 1/2 inch carriage bolt or the biggest and longest bolt I have thru that frame which will allow me two steel strap braces. 1 on each side. The 750W gear reduction motor will be on there long enough to test the structural integrity of the motor mount braces.

By the time the custom 80 tooth sprocket shows up I should have an idea if it will be ready for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor for 51 mph gearing.

The 750W motor can go on the 20" bike that has the 1,800W motor and the 1,800W motor can go on the Haro V3.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

I just got off the phone with two bike shops. They both have brand new rims for 50 bucks. One wants to charge an extra 20 to put my free wheel on and the other shop does it for free so will have a perfectly straight wheel for the 89T sprocket on the front of the 26" dual suspension.

I fixed the issue I had with the rear 1,000W hub motor by replacing the missing cover bolts and reinstalling it so that bike may actually work now and be reliable.

However I want to order an inexpensive sensor less controller as with my soldering skills it is nothing short of a miracle it even works now. I told you I have 5 solder joints inside as well as outside and had to re solder one of those sensor wires when fixing the motor cover that was grinding a few days ago.

I can't call it reliable the way it is now but with a brand new sensor less controller and a brand new perfectly straight rim up front for the chain drive after a few days of extensive test riding including the trails I can declare success and hopefully if my camera shows up can prove it.

I will look also for a sensor less controller. 48 * 35 = 1,680W so 35 amps is minimum and 38 or 40 amps is desirable. Please let me know as I really need a sensor less controller for that hub motor. I know that I did a much better solder job with the motor phase wires than the sensor wires and since the motor only has less than 100 or 200 miles on it and a new rim it can be considered reliable.

https://www.officematics.com/greentime-15-mosfets-48v-800w1000w-dual-mode-sensorsensorless-brushless-dc-motor-controllermotor-drivenmotor-scooter-control-p-205809.html

I have spent at least an hour or more previously looking and see this one but no phone number to speak with someone and no precise wiring diagram / instructions. I will need to know exactly how to hook it up. It should be really simple with no sensor wires but I see sensor wires and it says it is sensor less. ??????????

Please let me know as if I can make at least one 26" mountain bike 100% reliable then don't really need to spend a lot of money on a hub motor kit. I still will have a 50 - 100 a month budget to keep my hobby going but wont need to spend 2 or 3 hundred bucks or more on a hub motor kit. I can just wait a while and spend $50 bucks or even less a month and in 3 or 4 months and get a really great deal on a MAC . BMC or QS motor for easy street and or the 27.5" Dimond Back instead of a cheap over rated 1,500W kit that is probably only 1,000W.

Thanks.

LC. out.

7:19 PM.

Just got back from the bike shop.

latecurtis wrote: ↑Feb 27 2021 3:44pm
The bike shop did not do that great of a job either with truing the wheel after lacing it to a new rim.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U62KQK ... e=youtu.be
Confirm that tire is properly seated ?
latecurtis wrote: ↑Feb 27 2021 3:44pm
Also the front wheel with the 89 tooth sprocket is not trued right either and I paid them to do it. The chain drive does work but a lot of movement of the wheel and at high speeds the chain could come off. That is not my fault but a piss poor job by the bike shop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gyLea8 ... e=youtu.be
Axle appears to be bent ?

Well I guarantee DA. is way smarter than the guy at the bike shop. I suspected the rim and the guy said the rim is not bent. He said it was the freewheel or the sprocket. I told them that the other Ernies bike shop put the freewheel on and the guy said it was the 89T sprocket as I forgot to take that off on the way there. He let me in the back by the truing stand. I spun the freewheel with the sprocket attached to it and no movement 99.99% perfect. Then I spun the wheel and was all over but really did not look that bad on the truing stand.

So I remembered what DA said about the axle and the guy looked at it and said it was bent. I got a brand new rim. He really did not want to take off the freewheel. I had to almost beg the guy. The freewheel I got is way better than the other and the rim was 40 bucks brand new. It came to 64 bucks. Exactly what the other Ernies bike shop charged me for hooking up two brake lines

I will also check the tire on the hub motor as I installed it so it might not be sealed.

Ok It is. It is spinning much better. When I pulled the hub motor all apart I broke two bolts off the cover on one side and 3 cover bolts on the wire side. It was two bolts on the non cover side missing. Only 4 out of 8 bolts and not even , so one side was grinding when turning the wheel. 3 bolts in a row were missing. It would turn about 3/4 way and grind. I rode it like that and it sucked. I added a bolt also on the wire side so there is 5 bolts there as three holes the bolt snapped off in the hole. Two are broke in a row but still works. I do not know how to fix it better. I fixed all that and have a brand new rim and freewheel for the front to bolt that 89 tooth sprocket to.



Like I said the hub motor works now but could use a sensor less controller. We all know my solder work usually leaves much to be desired. If that hub motor were sensor less It would be much more reliable. Not sure what to do about the missing bolts for the hub motor covers. I tightened the ones in there but not tight enough to snap them also. If there is a way to get the broken bolts out of the holes. ??? I know there are extractors but the bolts are real small ???

Please let me know and if you see a decent sensor less controller please post a link.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

He really did not want to take off the freewheel. I had to almost beg the guy.

How much money are you spending on labor taking things to your local bicycle shop (LBS)?

 

[latecurtis]

How much money are you spending on labor taking things to your local bicycle shop (LBS)?

Way too much. And I thought 40 bucks was a good deal for a brand new rim. It was 64 bucks with labor.

The rim is not brand new. A brand new rim would not be out of true like that but is way better than the rim with the bent axle.

Yea. I am about done getting robbed at the bike shops. I won't be going there unless I absolutely have to.

The guy down stairs that owns a gas powered mountain bike can do brakes and a few other things if he has the right tools.

Next time I need a new rim I will be ordering from youtube or Amazon.

Here is the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FY_nH4Lbgk&t=33s

The bike is not perfect as the front wheel is out of true also as well as the hub motor but good enough for a second test run with me on it. I do not think the chain will come off but not sure about 30+ mph or full throttle. It might be ok for 25 mph. We will see tomorrow if it don't snow again. We got snow today but it stopped and the roads are bare. Maybe a 1/4" on the van and cars out there.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[99t4]

If there is a way to get the broken bolts out of the holes. ??? I know there are extractors but the bolts are real small ???

Left-handed drill bit(s). Often will unscrew the broken screw while drilling it. Gotta get the bit started centered. And don't press 1/8" or smaller bits too hard or they'll snap.

 

[latecurtis]

If there is a way to get the broken bolts out of the holes. ??? I know there are extractors but the bolts are real small ???
Left-handed drill bit(s). Often will unscrew the broken screw while drilling it. Gotta get the bit started centered. And don't press 1/8" or smaller bits too hard or they'll snap.

Thank you. I will try true value hardware. They will be small drill bits. I would really like to get at least 1 more bolt on each side.

There should not be two holes in a row with no bolt but there is.

I put a lot of money fixing the motor and like I said before their work left much to be desired. That is a polite way of putting it. Piss poor is more accurate.

Well I guess they all have to make a living and at least he fixed it. I can try it tomorrow but could not with that bent axle. It really does look ridiculous but in a mad max sort of way. It could be in the next mad max movie. speed up the camera a little so it looks like it is going 80 or 90 mph. When only doing 30 mph. :lol:

If it works it will be a decent cargo bike as front end is heavier than the rear with the hub. I had to put 4 - 2.5 lb weights or 10 pounds on the back rack to shoot that video. The pedal sprocket part on a five gallon pail upside down. It is ready for a cargo basket back there.

With a sensor less controller and a better truing job on both wheels it could do 35 mph with the right voltage to each motor. But if it works the way the wheels are now a 25 mph cargo bike is desirable.

I need a sensor less controller and will get that drill bit.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

It really does look ridiculous but in a mad max sort of way. It could be in the next mad max movie.

I like how you justify it :thumb:

 

[latecurtis]

It is gorgeous outside today but do not feel like hauling that heavy dual suspension bike down the stairs.

I really want to try and remove those broken cover bolts on the hub motor and try and find bolts to replace them.

99t4 posted a left hand drill bit and can probably get one from the hardware store. If it does not work though I wonder if I could drill it out and if there is a drill bit that can make new threads for a slightly larger bolt than what was in there ???????

I also really want a brushless controller that is sensor less to run that hub motor. Therefore I am not even test driving it at this time.

I am not hauling it back upstairs again. It must be a finished product when I bring it down to the van.

I looked on e bay and saw a hub motor kit really cheap but not sure about ordering it. For a main bike I should have a pedal chain as I do believe the bike shop said that only pedal assist e bikes are legal in Ohio. I know there are a lot of gas powered bikes out there but most have a pedal and chain besides the motor chain.

I will post the cheap link. Not sure if it could be a scam or a cheap 500W motor advertised as a 1,000W/1,500W hub kit.



I would really like to know if it is real. When I click on the options 1.000W / 1,500W the price does not change. That is a big red flag.

Still looking for a cheap 1,000W sensor less hub motor controller also. I would like to go to the hardware store today and get that left handed drill bit and a drill bit that could re thread the holes for new bolts and the bolts.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

You need to look at the seller and how many items they have sold on ebay and what their % rating is.

 

[99t4]

I would like to go to the hardware store today and get that left handed drill bit and a drill bit that could re thread the holes for new bolts and the bolts.

Better call them first before wasting a trip. Not all H/W stores have them. Need more like an industrial supply store.

Here is a set at your favorite tool store!
https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html

 

[markz]

That'd be a long bike ride, I think the only thing curtis has is a Walmart and probably a Home Hardware store, the type that are in small towns where a Home Depot/Lowes decided not to build a store. Remember that Walmart online may have stuff they dont sell in store, Walmart has marketplace sellers but Walmart themselves has their own product sold online. Its always annoying when websites are like that, Bestbuy pulls the same shitty move for their website having marketplace sellers on their website.

Here is a set at your favorite tool store!
https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5-rD4WcCqQ&feature=youtu.be


That was way too much work. I am not putting the 1,800W motor on the Currie. That motor is fine and mounted with braces that are steel straps and other metal hardware as you can see. A 1/2" carriage bolt. There are three metal braces if you look closely and Five carriage bolts 3/8" I think not sure but strong bolts thru the wood bracket I mounted the motor to.

I am painting it black. Two chain drive motors reinstalled and one to go. Tomorrow I will bring the 1,800W brushless motor up that is on the 20" bike and see what is going on with that.

Thanks,

LC. out.

3/3/21 - 4:26 AM. I added another bolt by drilling up from the bottom as top drilling was blocked by the motor. The bolts are 1/2"
See bottom/last pic. below.

[attachment=0]IMG_0852.jpg[/attachment

 

[markz]

At least mate put a metal guard on there.

Or is it Safety Third?
https://youtu.be/s0RrhkMk2zY?t=18

 

[latecurtis]

At least mate put a metal guard on there.

Metal guard ?????

Show me a picture. Not sure what you are talking about. Is it something to protect me from the chain flying off ??? I will need to see it if I am going to hook it up. I will also need a link as really do not know exactly what it is. I only have a vague idea.



I decided to run the 36V - 750w gear reduction motor exclusively at 53V. I unhooked the 36V - 800W controller.

I believe the motor rpm @ 36V was 480 so 480 / 36 * 53 = 706.



The Currie is geared for 30 mph now and need to get a rear brake hooked up by the guy downstairs for a test drive. After that am heading to the bike shop for a front brake professionally installed.

The Bafang wheel will be removed and a regular 26" from rim will replace it. I will keep the DC breaker and the 36V sticker I created as if those controllers for the Bafang motors I ordered show up in April I will put one on the front if they even work. So far the Bafang motors have been a waste of time.

Thanks.

LC. out.

3/3/21 - 3:39 PM.

750W / 36 * 53 = 1.104 watts. Yea. The 1.200W - 13S - 7P pack suits the gear reduction motor on the Currie perfectly. I might test drive it as soon as I can get at least one brake working.

My new Cannon camera is at the post office. I can mount it on any of my handle bars. Also I wont need to hook up a speedometer. The GPS on my cell phone displays speed. There is even an app thet will fill the screen with the speedo. but need to install it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Thanks.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The Currie e zip Trailz.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYFqr3vTaIU



The disk brake was easy as was already on the Currie with that front wheel. I must have taken it off when I put the Bafang motor on it. It must have not fit the Bafang disk for some reason. I wish I did not waste my money on that Bafang junk. Those motors probably wont ever work. Cheap Chinese junk. The rear brake was difficult as had to cut the cable that was too long with a pair of wire strippers and scissors.

It was gorgeous out today and went to the post office and got my Cannon camera and the connecters DA posted a while ago.

I was working on the bike when it got dark earlier. I ran a second 1/2" bolt to reinforce the first which I added the rest of my JB weld around it for extra strength. Then another small steel strap clamp around both 1/2" bolts. There should be no way for the chain to come loose with all those steel braces.

It will be ready for a test drive tomorrow.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

It is freezing cold out again with the wind blowing. I did not feel like testing out the Currie with the new motor mount today.

I was thinking about brushless hub motor controllers and came up with an idea.

I have been trying to get those Bafang hub motors to work for about 3 or 4 months now I think and had no success. Not sure if I got ripped off by Battery Clearinghouse or what.

I have the 9 pin motor wire that allows hook up to about any brushless controller.



I tried the 36V controller Dan sent but no luck. It is like the Bafang motors are dead or burned out. However I got to thinking and I know for a fact that the controller that came with the 1,000W direct drive hub motor kit SUNDER sent 5 or 6 years ago does in fact work. I do not know if the e bikeling controller I ordered that did not work with the Bafang motors ever worked or not. There is just no way of telling as I smashed it with a hammer as well as the display module when it failed to work.

I know if I hook up either one of my 36V packs which are 10S - 10P or 10S - 8P that the current will exceed the maximum 20 to 22 amps and fry the Bafang motors as the controller is 1,000W so probably 28 or 30 amps.

But here is where I got a great idea. An 18 to 20 amp BMS. and a home build 10S - 5P pack. If I build it from those 18650 cells will it work without damage to the Bafang motors if the controller is 30 amps ???? The BMS should control the current so it wont exceed 18 or 20 amps right ?????????????

I did in fact fix the 1,000W hub motor and tested it in a video earlier on but am really wanting to run a sensor less controller for the 1,000W hub motor as I just do not like my solder work on those 5 sensor wires. It might work the way it is for a long time but then again it might not. I am looking for reliability and think with a sensor less controller the 1,000W hub motor would be more reliable.

So my questions are

1. - Will a 18 or 20 amp 10S - BMS protect the Bafang motors from over current if hooked to a 30 or 30+ amp controller ??????

2. - Is there a sensor less controller out there suitable and one recommended to work with the 1,000W hub motor on the back of the 26" dual suspension.

Please let me know and if there is a sensor less controller that someone out there has used or has knowledge exactly how to hook up please post a link to it.

Thnks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Bafang, any amp controller will work, just don't use full throttle at low rpm.

Want to test the Bafang?
Just plug into one of your eBikeing rigs 9pin connection!
Bafang mounted on front of any bike, turn upside down, plug into working eBikeling setup.
Test

EZPZ

 

[latecurtis]

Just plug into one of your eBikeing rigs 9pin connection!

The e bikeling motor kits were not 9 pin.

Both those motors are on the Giant Roam and do not want to unhook anything as it is ready for a test run.

Also I already bought an e bikeling controller and display module which did not work. I smashed them with a hammer.

I do not think e bikeling controllers are compatible with Bafang motors.

I do not want to damage the e bikeling controllers by unhooking them from working e bikling motors.

I am still looking for a 1,000W sensor less controller for the 1,000W hub motor so I can use the stock controller that came with the kit with one of the Bafang motors. I have not found a suitable sensor less controller at a decent price.

There might be another option for testing the Bafang motors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-36V-350W-BLDC-Three-Phase-Sensorless-Brushless-Without-Hall-Motor-Controller/253500207584?hash=item3b05ca31e0:g:8p8AAOSw8mRarjsq

There was a you tube video on these controllers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MupWDqKCIRk&t=52s

If it in fact does work like the video shows then should be able to make them work with the Bafang motors. I will need to deposit some money in my account. I ordered a 16 amp 10S BMS to build a 10S - 5P pack from the 18650 cells.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I listed a place called EVFitting Greentime that has cheap controllers, usually takes a couple weeks to arrive.
https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/313864

I doubt you can find cheap controllers being sold from North America on ebay or Amazon compared to being sold in China/Asia.

Now there is another one others like, PSW something or other Power
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110408&p=1620092&hilit=PSW#p1620092
https://www.ebay.com/sch/diyebike2010/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=98517&p=1442819&hilit=PSW#p1442819
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90407&p=1317739&hilit=PSW#p1317739

 

[latecurtis]

I listed a place called EVFitting Greentime that has cheap controllers, usually takes a couple weeks to arrive.

Yes the greentime 45 amp 1,000 - 1,500W looks like exactly what I am looking for. I will need to put some money on my card this week. I still have to pay the rent though so may not happen until next week.

I need > 1,000W as the 53V - 13S - 1,200W battery pack is what I will be using for the 26" hub motor on the dual suspension.

I may just order a couple of those cheap 350W sensor less , brushless controllers though just in case the Bafang motors don't work with the stock 1,000W hub motor controller.

I ordered two controllers already for the Bafang motors but those are not showing up until April. I wanted to try to hook one of the Bafang motors up sooner.

The bike shop wants like 100 bucks just to hook up a disk brake but have a lot of disk brake parts. A bag of parts came with the Bafang motors. I just do not know what will fit until I try it. If I have to spend a lot of money in brake work to put a Bafang on the front of the Currie then I will just run the back motor solo and keep the front wheel that is on there as it has a working disk brake.

At that point I will have absolutely no use for the Bafang motors as Easy Street is 700c and the Silver Dimond Back is 27.5" I do however have a 26" Dimond Back outlook but is just a frame with handle bars. It would need too many parts.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

You need to seriously do your own bicycle work, seriously man.

Spend some time on youtube. Park Tools has a great Youtube channel, plus theres countless others out there. Sure you may have to buy some tools, maybe some allen keys, maybe a wrench or hammer. Seek out pawn shops, they are dirt cheap there.

Are you not using hyraulic disc brakes?
If you are that means more $$$$$$$$$, plus bleeding the brakes, plus oil. Cables are better, besides your not going that fast. I mean how fast do you need to go to hit the beer store before it closes?

I just do not know what will fit until I try it.