new eZip motor

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LIFe fires

[youtube]07BS6QY3wI8[/youtube]

[youtube]uLzPSN8iagk[/youtube]
 
Yea.

I got evidence that proves otherwise.

Different cells though.

Both battery chemistries make totally different cells.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-muG8rp53A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PiP1Cefl2c

I just made a you tube video on how to put 20 - LTOs in a bike triangle. I still got to finish it but shows the fiberglass resin. It is some really strong stuff. They fix boat leaks with that stuff. It is not some cheap flex seal garbage they sell at Wall-Mart as seen on TV that might work for a roof a couple of days if you use a gallon of it. :lol: :lol: :lol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKvYLI1I2VE

Fiberglass resin is used in professional auto body shops and extreme marine applications. This 20S triangle box will work and last so long I could leave it in a will along with the LTOs.

35,000 cycles. I doubt I will be around that long.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
I wish there were a street legal kit car about 1,000 to 1,500 pounds fully enclosed with AC and heater and computer GPS dash that I could power with my 60 - HP - FX - 75 - 5 motor

Please please please restrict yourself to ebikes that minimise the risk to those on the road. Can you imagine a car that “works for a bit, at least for a while” and in this case “work” is very loose.
 
I have a question for anyone who can give me an answer instead of a wise comment or nasty opinion.

I will be hooking the 12S- LIFEPO4 in parallel with 36V-SLAs sometime soon.

There is a considerable voltage difference with my 10 amp 43.6V - proper LIFEPO4 charger and the standing voltage of 36V SLAs even fresh off the charger.

12S-LIFE = 43+ V

SLA = > 38.4V.

I can use my 10S - 42V charger for overnight but is only 1.5A. If I want to make two separate trips in 1 day I will be dealing with a voltage difference of > 5V between the packs. That would make a huge spark and could fry my connecter and maybe give me an electric shock. :roll:

I desperately need to solve that problem. Will this work and if NOT what will work ?????? :?:

prehookup.jpg

Please let me know. It is e bike related and a legitimate question, I will also need to know how long I should keep it hooked up before running the packs together ????????? :?:

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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latecurtis said:
Fiberglass resin is used in professional auto body shops and extreme marine applications. This 20S triangle box will work and last so long I could leave it in a will along with the LTOs.

35,000 cycles. I doubt I will be around that long.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.
Impressive!
Some LTO are rated at 30,000+ cycles ... or a 10 year service life. (Age deterioration)
Which means they can be low rate cycled nearly 10 times per day.
Good for power grid?
Ideal for hybrid vehicle with intermittent motor run to recharge.
A vehicle-battery combo with 10 good years is very acceptable.
 
Impressive!
Some LTO are rated at 30,000+ cycles ... or a 10 year service life. (Age deterioration)
Which means they can be low rate cycled nearly 10 times per day.
Good for power grid?
Ideal for hybrid vehicle with intermittent motor run to recharge.
A vehicle-battery combo with 10 good years is very acceptable.

Thank you DA.

I don't get much positive feedback on this post so is greatly appreciated. I am re enforcing each seam with fiberglass for that extra strength needed if the unthinkable happens and one of my e bikes tips over. I do NOT need $600 worth of LTOs rolling around in the middle of the road somewhere. :roll:

There is much more to be done. It is not as simple as it looks. I am still engineering it as I build it. I will do a video when it is finished. It could be awhile. NOT sure but until then will be running the LIFEPO4s in parallel with the lead acid ???

Back to my question.

What type of pre hook up cable should I use to equalize out the packs before running in parallel ???? For overnight charging I could use a 36V 10S - 42V Lion charger. In fact I think I have two so could charge the 3 - SLAs with one and the 12S - LIFEPO4s with the other but each is like 1.5 amps. It will do me no good if making two separate trips in one day.

12S-LIFE = 43+ V

SLA = > 38.4V.

See my illustration on my last post. I will need a good pre hook up cable. I have one I built awhile back for LiPo but not sure if it could work. I can test each pack with a multi meter until they are within .2 or .3V but do not wat to have to wait hours for that to happen. Therefore might need a special hook up cable for 5 or 10 minutes before running in parallel.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
You know my opinion of Lead ... heavy, inefficient, expensive, short lived etc. = worthless!
You should reread your old comments from when you finally got dragged out from under your 1st oppressive Lead obsession!
 
You know my opinion of Lead, heavy, inefficient, expensive, short lived etc. = worthless!
You should reread your old comments from when you finally got dragged out from under your 1st oppressive Lead obsession!

Yea.

I just do not always want to stop and charge 12S LIFE every 8 to 10 miles. I might want to go 15 to 18 miles round trip and NOT have to stop to charge.

Once I get a better LIFE pack built I will stop using SLA again. If they are still around 50% capacity they will be used for solar energy storage. I also plan on getting old car batteries that have some life but not enough to start a car. I want a solar energy charging station with a few good quality solar panels and somewhere between 500 and 1,000 Ah of 12V storage. A 1,000W or 1,500W inverter from 12V-DC to 110V-AC.. It will be very useful if the grid goes down. Some energy is way better than no energy at all. Especially when it is renewable energy. My budget is

< 500 - solar panels

< 500 - inverter

< 100 cables , fuses , ect.

Any old batteries around 50% capacity.

Also due to the low capacity cells the LIFEPO4s SAG to a ridiculous voltage which causes very poor performance. It wont mater if I test every cell bank to find one weaker than the rest.(the testing you mentioned several times) It will NOT make all the cells higher capacity and less SAG. Only new different 6,000 mah cells will increase capacity and lower SAG.

However until the time comes that I build a better 36V LIFE pack I can get increased range and performance by parallel connecting to SLA. I just need to know what pre hook up cable I will need to avoid a surge of current from the LIFE going into the SLA if the difference in voltage is 4 or 5V ???????

If only making one single trip a day could I charge both SLA and LIFEPO4 in parallel with a 1.5 amp 10S - 42V lithium charger ??????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
You could charge SLA in parallel with LiFe with 42V LiCo charger, but must use immediately or SLA will bleed down the LiFe.
or
Charge joined SLA and LiFe separately while isolated with diodes.
 
You could charge SLA in parallel with LiFe with 42V LiCo charger, but must use immediately or SLA will bleed down the LiFe.
or
Charge joined SLA and LiFe separately while isolated with diodes.


Thanks DA.

I want to run 36V SLA separate anyway up a hill then go back down and switch to LIFE on the Way to Wall Mart.

I want to see which is better performance.

On the way back from Wall Mart I will switch back to SLA.

When I get home I will charge each with two separate 10S 42V chargers.

Once the same voltage I will hook up in parallel. leave in parallel all the time and put one 10S charger on a timer to turn on every 6 hours for 1/2 hour, It will keep them stable and ready to go anytime.

1/2 hour before running will plug it in to top off voltage.

However whenever I need to fast charge the LIFE with the 43.6V charger I will need to run them SOLO. When I recharge I will use both 42V chargers so both packs voltages are the same again , Then can run in parallel again.

Thanks.

LC out.
 
You know my opinion of Lead, heavy, inefficient, expensive, short lived etc. = worthless!
You should reread your old comments from when you finally got dragged out from under your 1st oppressive Lead obsession!

Yea.

I agree.


The first week of next month I will be ordering 12 of those.

https://batteryhookup.com/products/new-3-2v-25ah-lifepo4-topband-navitas-prismatic

topband_1024x1024@2x.png


Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Why don't you store the batteries in the car when your not home and charge the batteries in your home.
 
You do realize? ...
Car batteries and likely lawnmower batteries are not deep cycle!
If not deep cycle you'll not get more than a few usable cycles.

Using Lead acid batteries for storage might require twice as many solar panels!
More watts ~133% to charge!
Less watts ~70% from stored!

You have lots of batteries, none used appropriately!
Recommendations:
LiCo = Electric bikes
LiFe = Solar storage
LTO = Electric motorcycle
Lead Acid = Recycle
 
Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
:mrgreen: My guess is the 12S LIFE I built are at the most 10 Ah. NOT 19.
Why in the Hell don't you just measure what your Ah capacity is, you've been Bitching about it for months?
Why not perform the simple test to find what problems you even have with your LiFe build?
Afraid to find out?
 
Thank you.

Merry Christmas.

LC. out.

12/25/21

Why in the Hell don't you just measure what your Ah capacity is, you've been Bitching about it for months?
Why not perform the simple test to find what problems you even have with your LiFe build?
Afraid to find out?

That video shows capacity discharge test with a liPo charger similar to the two I have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7cIYeZJ4eg&t=187s

I have two - 6S - LiPo chargers that will discharge like in the video and should show capacity when the program ends. The thing is back when I had to push the bike 3 miles the voltage was not really that low as I thought but due to voltage SAG tripped the LVC. on both controllers.

I should be able to do the discharge capacity test but am not sure where to set the cut off voltage for the test. I am sure I can get some number on the meter if what you are talking about but need to know what voltage to set the discharge to cut off at. Then hopefully the meter can show capacity from each cell bank or use the 5 in 1 balancer to check each cell bank and use a formula and calculator. Not sure.

Please let me know and should be able to test each 6S pack as well as the 3S pack. My plan is though to order 12 of the 25 Ah prismatic cells and just run in parallel with the 12S I got so will just add some capacity to the new cells so wont matter as much if low capacity now.

I just know those three SLAs are heavy. I will weight the SLAs , LTOs and LIFE batteries on a bathroom scale and shoot a video.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Did you buy yourself any ev related bling? Real or fake tree? Big or small xmas day get together? The usual spread turkey stuffing mash gravy? xmas is just another day for me with socks that are to small, a winter hat the breeze can flow through gift cards I wont use but whos complaining?

start saving https://unitpackpower.en.alibaba.com/product/1600273154363-808203234/Newest_Big_Jumbo_Battery_52v_21ah_Downtube_Ebike_Battery_Pack_52_Volt_20_4ah_17_4ah_For_1000w_1500w_Motor.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.22.6adf5a46cfXGzY


nicobie said:
Merry Christmas LC. I hope 2022 goes better for you than 2021 has.👍
🎄🎄🎄
 
I am about to do a search now as a few pages back , maybe 50. I am almost positive I measured cell voltages when I pushed the Currie home the one time it tripped both the brush and brushless 36V controllers LVC.

That is important as that will be the voltage that is usable capacity as that is the number I am looking for. DA is looking for the voltage the manufacture recommends discharging to which is either 2.0 or 2.5V. I will perform a test for both usable and rated.

Welcome to this post if you are new. It is awesome to be part of the EV revolution. I would love to see the day when all cars are electric and drive themselves. :lol:

Happy holidays to everyone.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I wanted to know whats the best motor to buy since you mess around with those motors but i see i forgot post it and it doesnt matter now as old brushed motors is not worth a penny and brushless hub motor fits in my scooter. I only need to be told once that old tech is wasteful. Dont be scared of new tech embrace cuddle and spoon it.

Any boxing day treats bestbuys got a great sale on and for you maybe walmart
 
Generic batteries steel ribbons not solid nickel unless you pay for a proper build.

calab said:
Did you buy yourself any ev related bling? Real or fake tree? Big or small xmas day get together? The usual spread turkey stuffing mash gravy? xmas is just another day for me with socks that are to small, a winter hat the breeze can flow through gift cards I wont use but whos complaining?

start saving https://unitpackpower.en.alibaba.com/product/1600273154363-808203234/Newest_Big_Jumbo_Battery_52v_21ah_Downtube_Ebike_Battery_Pack_52_Volt_20_4ah_17_4ah_For_1000w_1500w_Motor.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.22.6adf5a46cfXGzY


nicobie said:
Merry Christmas LC. I hope 2022 goes better for you than 2021 has.👍
🎄🎄🎄
 
Thank you.

topband_1024x1024@2x.png

https://batteryhookup.com/products/new-3-2v-25ah-lifepo4-topband-navitas-prismatic

I just did the math. These cells are 1-18" thick. 2-3/4" wide and 7-1/8" high.

Not counting a box to hold them perfectly the width and height will not change and total length stacked up vertically will be 1.125 * 12 = 13.5" That is a nice compact pack. Due to their dimensions no space is wasted like round cylinder cells. Also with both terminals on the top the bottom will set down in the box perfect. All is needed for the top is a lid with small hinges and could add a lock.

The BMS can be mounted under the lid as long as the wires are long enough to open it and an insert is added so the cells can not move in case you want to lay the pack on its side as will only be 2-3/4" high instead of 7-1/2".

Basically mounting options will be versatile. NOT an engineering nightmare like LTOs and cylinder LIFE cells are. :lol:

Also 680 grams is 1.499 pounds so 1.5 * 12 = 18 pounds so the maximum weight with nuts and bus bars should be < 21 pounds assembled.

Basically that is exactly what I am looking for in a battery pack. If only I were smart enough to notice those cells before I spent $600+ for those LTOs and $280+ for the 80 - 3.28 Ah LIFE cells. I could have built a 20S , 16S and a 12S pack with those cells.

They do not come with busbars but can order them here.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/M6-Busbar-Screw-Bus-Bar-Battery_1600211960031.html

About 8 days and will order my first 12. After testing the first 12S pack I might still build a 16S and 20S pack.

12/26/21

When I walk my mind seems to go into overdrive thinking. :idea:

I finally have a good answer for a really stupid thing I did awhile back. It is about the 13S power modules. I watched a video and the guy removed the balance boards to install a BMS. DA. said I could have run them with the balance boards and would have been ok without a BMS.

I felt very foolish for doing such a dumb thing. :oops: That is up until now.

Since I have a 12S - LIFEPO4 pack and am building a second for > 20 mile usable range , and also building a 20S - LIFEPO4 pack for all my 48V needs that leaves me with the HARO V3 and the 60V controller and 3,000W - 60V motor.

Yes. I will be ordering my own BMS for the 13S power modules but will be a 16S - 100 amp Bluetooth BMS.

I will also need to order two. One for each power module. I could use one as they will be in parallel but I am going with two identical 100 amp - BMSs.

I will need two 3S - 4P packs with the same Panasonic cells that are in the power modules or cells with the same specifications or close enough to work.

I am NOT soldering or spot welding any batteries so the 3S - 4P packs must be built so it will be easy to unhook the 3S - BMSs and use the wires to go to the 16S - BMSs.

16S power..png

I am hoping DA will let me know. The Haro V3 will be my only e bike I will be running with Lion - 18650 cells. It will be a clean build. No wood at all and the controllers will fit inside a factory built triangle bag just like I plan on doing with the Giant Roam.
Both the Haro and Giant will have a rear factory rack for the batteries.

The Haro will have a small black wire front basket as well that they sell at Wall-Mart. It will have a 10S - 8P Lion pack for a front Bafang motor. (the motor which is now on the 26" dual suspension.) This will increase the range of the Haro to > 30 miles as can use the front motor on the flat and the rear 3 kilowatt motor for up hills and when a top speed is desired.

12/27/21 - 2:05 AM. I am inserting this. I did a video of the next 3 new builds I have planned. I will be turning over a new leaf for my New Years resolution. No more crappy builds. No wood . No Vice grips on the axle nuts and no more milk crates for baskets

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy89V5PQMsE

I will be housing the controller / controllers in factory ordered triangle bags. Batteries will go on a rear rack or factory made black wire small front basket. Also new stickers will be ordered for the Giant Cypress Hybrid. All three bikes will be clean professional builds. I also have a 20" vintage Diamondback Viper. #4 GOOD BUILD. It will get a 1,500W rear direct drive 48V hub motor. I plan on getting a 2,000W - geared hub motor for the 700c Giant Cypress Hybrid that needs the new stickers.

The Cypress Hybrid and 20" Viper is not happening any time soon. Looking at a year or two down the road. The Giant Roam and Haro V3 will happen this winter and should both be running by spring or summer.


12/27/12:20 AM.

I own 13 total motors for e bikes. 9 are 36V. Eight are currently running ; 5 being 36V motors. The two 36V chain drives and the two e bikeling motors will be running soon though. The two DD hubs and 1,800W brushless motor are 48V and the only one 60V motor is the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. Therefore I will be building the 12S prismatic LIFE pack first. The SLAs are way too heavy and only running a few cycles with them. I need 30+ Ah for 36V. 20+ miles of range.

Then after that.

https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Monocrystalline-Complete-Off-Grid-Controller/dp/B07K233GT8/?tag=earthtechling-best-solar-panel-kits-20

solar setup.png

I own one 225 cold cranking amp lawn mower battery. It is about 33 Ah. Two more will be 99 Ah + the 3 - SLAs which are 66 AH will give me 165 Ah of 12V storage. That is minimum to start. I can add batteries. 33 Ah lawn mower batteries are like $24 at Wall Mart. I could jump start cars also if I had to. Maybe make $10. :lol:

To keep the solar storage batteries healthy I need a way to set the voltage so they stay above 85% of a full charge. Not sure how to do that. I wont be using my 15 amp 54.6V 900 watt charger. Just the 10 amp 43.6V LIFEPO4 charger. The other chargers will all be < 5 amps. Also on separate timers so wont all be drawing current at the same time.

Even though I will never solder another battery I still will need to solder wires sometimes. The fumes are not good in my apartment so should also be able to have a small soldering station in the van to plug in the Weller soldering iron.

I am looking into a solar panel kit. After I set all that up I will then order the 16S - Bluetooth BMS for the power modules and the two 3S - 4P packs to hook up to the BMS.

That should give me plenty of time to find two 3S - 4P lion packs to hook in series with the power modules. If DA knows if they exist please let me know. Also if anyone knows of a better solar kit for around the same price ( $200) please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
https://www.orbtronic.com/18650-imr-battery-high-drain-rechargeable-li-ion

ur18650wx__72346.1490846663.jpg

Yea. Those are the cells in the power modules. Out of stock.

Probably close to impossible to extract from one of the power modules.

I am trying to run 60V or 16S from the 13S power modules. The reason is I have a 60V motor and 70 amp controller. 13S or 48V is way undervolted / underpowered.

I will be running 20S - LTO soon for 48V and 12S - LIFEPO4 for 36V. Three of my e bikes will run 36V. Three 48V and one 60V. Building a 60V battery from LIFEPO4 will be expensive. 24 - LTOs will be way too heavy so the power modules at 16S is ideal for the 60V - 3 kilowatt brushless motor/controller.

I am not in a big rush though. I still need to take the front Bafang hub motor off the 26" dual suspension and put it on the front of the Haro. Then put the 36V gear reduction motor on the front of the 26" dual suspension. That way I can run 20 - LTOs for that bike and the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor.

Since I will need to run 3 - SLAs in parallel with the LIFEPO4s I have for > 20 miles without re charging. If I build a 12S - 25 Ah pack with the LIFEPO4 prismatic cells then I wont have to run those heavy lead ass batteries so that has to happen first. Also a 12S - 25 Ah pack with those prismatic cells will be much more compact and fit perfect on a rear factory rack for a clean build and no wood for the Giant Rome.

Likewise if I can get 16S from the power modules by running in series with 3S - 4P it will be lighter and a more compact than 24 - LTOs for the rear rack on the Haro V3. Those are the good clean builds I want to do. I can not do good clean builds with 40 and 50 pounds of batteries.

I would rather store and charge the power modules and any Lion out in my van in a large metal tool box. The kind that people get for pick up trucks. That plate steel. I could also buy LiPo as well if I ever got a deal on it.

Also it would be ideal to have a solar charging system for all my e bike batteries. I did a rough illustration on my last post. It is a lot to do and hopefully if I am above ground long enough I can get it all done.

I did check out a new e bike forum but did not get any feedback when I posted.

https://ebikesforum.com

marty. Is that yours ????? :?:

I have much to do and hope to accomplish something this week. I still have to finish the LTOs and haul that 26" dual suspension up the stairs at some point in time.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
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