new eZip motor

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Chalo said:
Any cutting fluid is better than nothing, for materials that benefit from cutting fluid. Both WD-40 and Dawn dishwashing liquid are really good for drilling and tapping aluminum. For steel, it's better to use a lubricant with high pressure qualities.

Man, you get some good tips in this thread. I bought some handyman quality drill bits which were fine when I was working on wood and aluminium. But when I started working on some steel frame for a car port, they started snapping on me. I'm now wondering if I was using the wrong lubricant. (WD40 as well).

I actually upgraded to a trade quality drill bit set (About $100 for a 25 bit set, vs $60 I paid for the handyman quality one), and finished the job off, but that could have just been luck that I didn't break that too. But now I know better.

Chalo said:
How do you feel about caffeine? That's definitely a drug for making reality seem somewhat better than it is.

I carefully use caffeine during the day to keep my energy and focus up. It definitely helps with knowledge work productivity. I also use Modafinil when I have long blocks of focus work. I'm not against light recreational cannabis use, and definitely not against medical cannabis use, even though recreational use is illegal in Australia. I use neither cannabis (or it's derived products - mostly because it's illegal here) or alcohol (Mostly because I am allergic). There's no way I think anyone should be riding a bike - or motorbike - while on either though. More or less the same assembling one too.

I don't think nervous system depressants should be compared to nervous system stimulants, and definitely not either compared to "mind altering drugs" like LSD, Psilocybin, and Meth, especially in the context of safety. Yes, all classes modify your perception of the world, but in very different ways.

liveforphysics said:
I don't do my job for the money, I have an unquenchable fire lit inside me to help the EV revolution happen and with the safest batteries and powertrains on the planet. When I'm not in the lab, I'm just wanting to finish whatever it is to get back to the lab, because its a matter of love and passion and leaving our shared spaceship life-support system survivable.

Have you ever read the book/seen the TED talk "Start with Why?" https://www.ted.com/talks/simon_sinek_how_great_leaders_inspire_action?language=en

I read his book about a year ago, and coincidentally a couple months ago, my employer hired him as a keynote speaker at our annual employee "All hands" conference. I started reading his stuff, because a year ago, I paid off my mortgage and realised my superannuation (Australian equivalent of the US's 401K), had a balance higher at 42, than most people have at retirement.

I needed a higher purpose than just money. I found my why. Although I still do the same job, I no longer sell network and security gear. I help companies build better IT systems. I make work better for hundreds of thousands of people, by making them never think about IT again: because the network doesn't fail, and security doesn't intrude on their job. As a result, my boss has had to take accounts off me because of how many customers want to buy, and I actually enjoy and look forward to large portions of my job.

The book also helped me recognise people who are working for money, and those who are working for purpose. However, I have to admit, Blind Freddy could see - even before your post above - that you were really passionate about electric vehicles, and the reason behind that. You're really making an impact in small ways and large, mate. I can see it here, I hope you're also doing it elsewhere.

liveforphysics said:
I'm interested in how those LTO cells perform for you. We have some 40Ah and 70Ah LTO pouches that have some impressive capabilities, but I've never tested a cylindrical version.

I bought these for an off-grid farm inverter (OSN Power 40AH):
HTB1YTbHbv1TBuNjy0Fjq6yjyXXap.jpg

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/OSN-POWER-Rechargeable-Above-20000-Times_60740418356.html

Bloody hell they are good. In a 1S10P configuration (24v), I dropped a spanner on it while attaching the bolts. It blew part of the cup off a good quality Kinchrome spanner. Not a cheap, thin Chinese made tool. Chunk of hot metal blown from a 4-5mm thick spanner gone in an instant. The rest of the spanner then glowed red hot for a few seconds until I grabbed a second spanner and knocked it off the terminals. And that wasn't even across the whole pack.

In terms of internal resistance, if I recall correctly, when I tested it, all of them were 1mOhm (Using the AC method, so DC could have been higher). 1mOhm is the lowest my meter will register.

A couple years ago, they were flooded - as in literally a foot of water. The lowest row were submerged, but the highest row wasn't. Some cells reached literal 0.0v, and others reached 5.2v. The battery continued to work after restoring things back to normal, but with about a 20-30% loss of capacity. I didn't test for any gain of internal resistance.

We were expecting a minimum 10 year life span out of them, but between the flooding and 55*C+ storage temperatures (This is a farm shed after all), they probably have reached the end of their useful life after about 6 years. They require frequent balancing now, and have lost at least 50% of the capacity (Guessed from run time, not measured).

But I think well taken care of in an electric vehicle, they'd be very good where very high current delivery and fast charging is more important than long range between charges. Australia is getting some very powerful J1772 and DC fast chargers, along with a Tesla's proprietary network. So the idea that we're limited to 2.4kw charging rate is no longer a concern. On motorcycles especially, where you don't tend to do 2h+ rides without some kind of break, I think a bike that could charge up 10kwh pack that could do 80% charge in an hour, is just as good as a bike that can do 300km with a 10L tank.

I also have a 6kwh LTO prismatic cell battery from a failed Kawasaki Ninja conversion (Had a low side before the bike was built, and wife convinced me that it's not worth it when I have two young kids and a wife dependent on me), and also building a 160wh prismatic battery for an eBike now I've been called back to the office. Neither of those have been field tested, but I hope that being for vehicle use, and not used/stored in a neglectful environment like the farm battery, these will be good for longer than a decade.
 
When do you plan on buying the Jump motors?

How many Jump front hub motors are you buying?
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Yea.

I rode 4.5 miles home from storage tonight. First time riding in about a week mostly due to weather. I had some things to take to storage so took the van and John drove the van home. I brought the metal pail there and will be charging any 18650 packs outside at least 6 feet from the unit on the gravel in the pail. I will need to do that on a nice dry day when I have at least 6 hours.

I worked on the dual suspension and ran into some complications of coarse. That is normal for me as chain drives always give me problems installing. I should have it running in one or two more days depending on how long I spend there.

I rode the Currie home and the 16S - LTOs work very well indeed. I had no power meter or speedometer yet but could feel more power from the chain drive. Probably 2 or 3 mph more top speed and a lot more power up small hills when using both throttles (the front 350W Bafang + the 1,000W rear chain drive.

However I still think the chain drive is not 1,000W @ 3,000 rpm. It runs exactly like the 800W - 2,750 rpm motor did. It is probably the same motor if I am lucky and not a 24V - 500W - 2,500 rpm motor as that would be 750W and 3,600 rpm. - 34.53 mph gearing. The 800W 36V motor would be 26.38 mph gearing @ 800W.

I am just speculating but since I owned all three of the above motors prior to ordering the 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm rated motor I just do not see it being as rated. - 28.77 mph gearing. It might do 28 mph on the flat but takes way too long to get there. It takes longer to accelerate on the flat and does not have any where near the torque up a hill the 48V - 1,000W motor had at 36V - 750W and 24.02 mph gearing. The 48V motor had an 80T wheel sprocket so at 48V was geared for 32.02 mph however seemed way more responsive with 12S Lipo 48V fully charged than the 36V version of it. As I remember it hit 29 mph.

I doubt it is the controller but could be part of it but it would still have better acceleration from 0 to 25 mph or however fast it will go. I need the speedometer , power meter and two cameras to accurately do a video of what is taking place. I could be wrong. That is possible.

I got my Green dot card today with $97 on it so will be ordering the two 4S active balancers and two cameras. I want to shoot the video with one camera on the speedometer and the road and a second just the power meter.

The power meter will be mounted inside the front milk crate basket with a small cannon pocket camera facing it a few inches away. I will put something over the top of the basket to block the sun if I need to. Also something over the speedometer if it is really bright out.

I want to do it with all my e bikes. This way I can post the videos and will be easier to diagnose any weak link in the systems.

Battery

motor

controller

gearing

wiring.

With LTOs and 10 or 12 gauge wiring we got controller , motor and gearing left as possible weak links.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Do you understand the rated rpm of a motor is its UNLOADED speed. UNLOADED means without load. You will never reach a motor’s max rpm when it is actually driving something.
 
Do you understand the rated rpm of a motor is its UNLOADED speed. UNLOADED means without load. You will never reach a motor’s max rpm when it is actually driving something.

OK.

Thanks.

It makes sense then what happened tonight.

I have a speedometer app. on my phone. I had issues with the digital version as were advertisements. I have used several speedo. apps in the past.

The analog version worked with no ads. but was all over the place. Not sure how accurate it is. It said top speed was only 25.9 mph.
It seemed way faster. I will need to try some other apps and compare them. Heavy steel frame + two motors , 30 pounds batteries and beer , chains and locks. Somewhere between 280 and 290 total weight I think. > 275 and < 300 is my rough guess. Heavy load.

I guess if I was only going < 26 mph I would probably not want to be on a bike going 10 mph faster. :oops: I can imagine how banged up I would get if I hit something or the chain broke and caught in the spokes. I really don't want to get hurt.

Since I have been going back to the WMCA and walking a lot and cutting back on calories I have been steadily losing pounds. I am under 220 now. 218.5 and am looking a lot better. Hopefully I wont need to take diabetes medicine. My goal is 208 or < 210. lbs.

If I have a bike accident it could mean surgery as my knee and right shoulder were damaged so severe both the doctors said surgery was highly recommended. Not something I want to go thru.

All the bike accidents I had in the past since I started this post were < 15 mph. Black ice , a broken section of road and a drainage hole with tall grass around it so it was not visible. I do not want to get really banged up.

The Currie is a good running cargo bike and even though I think the rear chain is over geared or the controller is < 28 amps it will go up small to medium size hills no problem. Sometimes I use both motors and that gives it a boost. I am not changing anything on it as I finally got the chain to stay on. I used 3 in 1 oil to lubricate the chain. I hope that was the right thing to use.

I am close to running the 750W gear reduction motor on the front of the 26" dual suspension. I made good progress today. I should be able to do a test run after one more trip there. I need to bring my other metal pail as John will need to charge those old hover board packs I gave him awhile ago. I have a metal pail there for my 13S - 7P - Lion pack.

When I charge lion I like to start at around 36V or < 36.5V. That way the BMS has some time to balance the packs. The old 10S - 10P hoverboard packs take longer to charge and would guess are about 50% original capacity. I might have to charge 6 hours one day and 6 the next.

The pails will sit on gravel about 6 feet away from the storage units which are concrete and steel. Nothing can burn anywhere near it. Perfect place to charge but limited time as usually there like 3 or 4 hours. Six if I show up early.

I probably wont be running 20S - LTO for the 20" dual suspension. Just too much weight and not enough room in the triangle. I am thinking 12S - LIFEPO4 for the front chain and the 13S - 1,200W - 20Ah - Lion pack for the rear 1,000W direct drive hub. 1,750W total power. around 27 or 28 mph top speed. Should win some races going up hills though.

I checked the voltage of the LTOs after 9 miles and were above 40V - 16S so should be good for at least 15 to 20 miles I think. I wanted a full charge for top speed but will try 13.5 miles next and if > 38V I will shoot for 20 miles. That is because I have two destinations that are about 4.5 miles. Wall Mart is 6.5 miles round trip the way I go on e bikes.

13.5 + 6.5 = 20. I really do not want to push that heavy beast though. :roll: I could bring my 12S - LIFEPO4s though as they will fit in the rear basket. It is why cargo bikes can also be better when comparing range of e bikes.

I still have the 1,800W brushless motor on the 20" bike if I want to try > 30 mph. I hope to run 20S - LTO on that somehow. As long as I can squeeze one 8S pack in the triangle I can do it. The other 8S pack can go on the top bar and a 4S pack in a front basket.

All I need is a 72T sprocket for the 3,000W brushless motor. Still looking at the power modules for that but must go in series with a 4S LiPo pack for 66V. Since LiPo is expensive I will live with just two power modules for 12.8 Ah as can get a deal on a 4S - 12 Ah LiPo pack and use a LiPo alarm so I do not run it low. That set up would be for racing only. For decent range > 20 miles I will need to build a 16S - LIFEPO4 pack > 20 Ah. That can go in a basket so if the LiPo alarm goes off I can switch over to LIFE.

I really am not sure if I want to go much more than 30 mph though. It could put me 6 feet in the ground. :roll: If not , rolling around in a hospital bed does not sound like fun at all. I just found a calculator where you put in the height and will show speed of free fall. 30 feet = 29.957 mph so impact at 30 mph is like falling 30 feet.

Maybe not a sudden stop though like falling , but over the handle bars at that speed could easily = a broken neck. :roll: A broken something is almost certain. :cry: A ride in the meat wagon is way > than a 50% chance.

Therefore if I want to prove anything like my e bike runs better than Tomajsz , DA , ect. it will be comparing e bikes up really steep hills. If I can go 20+ up a steep hill and he cant I win. :lol: The Currie , Giant Roam and dual Bafang motor e bike wont be in the competition. The 26" dual suspension with 1,750W total power will be my first race.

If that gets beat I got the 1,800W brushless motor and the 20" Turbo when I get those spokes replaced. I might throw a chain drive on the front. Then the 3 kilowatt motor.

Both competitors will need some type of app. that measures the grade / slope and distance of the hill. To win , the contestant must go the same distance in less time and the hill must ne = or > the hill the other is climbing.

For cargo e bikes the bike that hauls the most weight in cargo and makes it home will win. For looks / cosmetics I have the Giant Roam and that super sexy Haro V3. The 90s vintage Diamondback Outlook don't look too shabby either. Range competition can be done with cargo bikes that are capable of hauling spare battery packs.

I am looking forwards to the e bike competition. I have different e bikes for different types of competition. As far as riding on snow and ice DA. has that title with his studded tires. I wont be entering that one. :lol: We can compare data from power meters , speedometer apps and onboard cameras.

My Greendot card got declined. It has $97+ on it but failed to activate as they sent a text message to a landline phone which don't receive text. I need to get the $$$ off that card somehow and open a separate checking account at my bank for online orders only.

My advice is frock Greendot. They suck big time. Nothing but a big hassle with everything and sets you back > 9 bucks a month even if you don't use it. That really sucks. :warn:

5/11/22

Canton OH has a new EV growing in popularity now. The bird EV app. Those little scooters un dock able. GPS , ect.

I was on the treadmill at the YMCA the other day second floor looking out the window and a guy looked like he was riding two at first but was riding one and hauling another.

I found out why a few minutes ago. $5 to $20 charging one. The company pays you.

Read up on it and lots of wild goose chases. Like ghosts. People will use cell blockers or try anything. Might even dig a hole and bury it. :lol:

A van could cost more $$$$ paying for gas than it could make.

An e bike trailer however costs nothing to run. Every bird you charge is 100% profit.

A van though could haul 20 or more Bird scooters so still part of the plan as park the van in a location where the e bike and trailer can collect Birds and bring them home to the nest. That solar panel kit on the roof would be the upgrade. A portable charging station.

The e bike trailer hauls three or four for pick up and drop off.

I might be too lazy to build the trailer though :oops:

I am a lazy alcoholic.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I took some pictures in Paris of a guy on an ebike pulling a custom trailer that had extra ebike packs onboard powering a set of scooter chargers. I love the idea. I like scooter/ebike charge docks too.
 
OK.

I got an update on the LTOs.

I rode them about 20 miles yesterday and tested voltage today before charging and was 39.3V. They are the real deal. 18 Ah respectably. Probably good for > 30 miles. I hauled around the 12S - LIFE packs I built just in case but now I know I wont need to unless I am going like 35 or 40 miles somewhere. I would then need to recharge before the trip back.

I was having regrets spending > $600 on the LTOs but after running them awhile I would gladly do it over and buy them again. As long as they do not get stolen I will have them a very long time. They will probably outlast me. :mrgreen:

Looking at an old school Schwinn Stingray steel chopper for the 3,000W brushless motor. Hopefully picking it up today for $50.

I gave the guy $60. He only wanted $50 but he is a friend and know he needed it. He bought a riding lawn mower. I took him and his wife there with the van. He has his own landscaping business. He likes to tip a few beers back after his work day is done. Going there with a 12 pack later.

I have a 20" fat tire in storage I think. I will need a bike shop to remove the cassette if it has one. I need a 16T freewheel and then can order a sprocket for the 3,000W brushless motor. I still have to pick up the forks and steering bar later. He had it apart. I got the frame out in the van. It is heavy and all steel. Perfect for 43 mph gearing.

I just ordered two 4S active balancers for the remaining 8 - LTOs. That will give me 50V for the 1,800W brushless motor and 60V for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I was just thinking of how many grins you leave on the table not being able to ride far with such low wh, but since you can now ride 20 miles its probably night and day for you. There are many grins :mrgreen: coming your way Curtis
 
calab said:
I was just thinking of how many grins you leave on the table not being able to ride far with such low wh, but since you can now ride 20 miles its probably night and day for you. There are many grins :mrgreen: coming your way Curtis

If he stabilizes chaffing from cell relative motion in the assembly and protects from corrosion, and replaces the series interconnects with something that the cell isn't capable of overcurrent failing, this pack could last him 15-25years of multiple cycle per day use.

Energy density is nice, but it's not the whole picture for all use cases. Being able to survive being discharged to 0vdc (try not to) is a pretty great trick for a DIY ebike to survive mistakes. Calendar life decay after a decade is only a few percent capacity for many LTO cells, where many high energy cells lose 10-20% capacity.
 
LTO’ are foreign to me today. I’m finishing a trike build and would not care about weight I have some homework to do. Best LTO maker? 24v max on Sunders post?
M
 
Yea.

Most of the time my e bike trips are < 5 miles so just run those 12S - LIFEPO4 packs I built. The LTOs are on standby and ready. I just don't need them for 90% of my riding. However any battery sitting around will depreciate to some degree so plan on running them at least once a week. Thing is it will go three or four short trips without charging so basically once I get the 4S active balancers for 50 or 60V operation I wont need 18650 lion at all.

Even though I got questioned and criticized for soldering the LIFEPO4 packs I can still run them flawlessly. Both 6S packs for 12S run and charge as well as the 3S pack for 15S - 50V.

For future battery building packs > 60V I think LIFEPO4 is the best way to go. My opinion. LTOs are great but very heavy. Lion is the lightest and most dangerous so LIFEPO4 falls in between. Almost as safe as LTO but better energy density Not as good density as lion but worth it for the safety. Rough guess is LTO is four times its weight of Lion and LIFEPO4 only two times or less,

If I build more battery packs they will be 26650 cells unless I can get the prismatic cells. I think they are the best. LIFEPO4.

Bottom line a 40 V - LTO and 40V - LIFE for back up is good. Both charge way faster than lion. > 30+ miles.

That is the Currie. My first e bike , today.

About close to 9 years later.

!,350 watts

I am proud.

Could care less if anyone does not agree.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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Yea.

Thing is I can fix just about anything that can go wrong. Also I can paint the little bit of wood that is showing.

I will be using paint stripper and a wire brush attached to my electric drill on the chopper frame.

Then wet sand paper , primer , paint and clear. Also some stickers or might find someone who does air brush.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Not to be nitpicking, but LTO, LFP, are just variations or Lion (lithium ion) batts.

LTO can and often does use the same NCM/NCA cathodes, replaces the lithiated graphite of the anode with lithiated titante (TiO2).
LFP is it's own cathode replacing NCA/NCM from being in a cell, but uses the same lithiated graphite for an anode.

You can pair an LTO anode with an LFP cathode and it makes an incredibly durable cell with many decades of calendar life from the very low voltage <2v causing minimal electrolyte stress to break things into gases. It also has awful energy density, but some applications aren't sensitive to weight (say grid storage, datacenters etc).
 
It seems to me that you send a lot of easy fixes to the expensive bicycle mechanic way.

latecurtis said:
Thing is I can fix just about anything that can go wrong. Also I can paint the little bit of wood that is showing.
 
It seems to me that you send a lot of easy fixes to the expensive bicycle mechanic way.

It has been a long time since I was at a bike shop.

I will need spokes though for that 20" hub motor and there is a bike shop that can cut them.

I just have to find out what they charge and pay for shipping both ways.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
Yea.

Thing is I can fix just about anything that can go wrong. Also I can paint the little bit of wood that is showing.

I will be using paint stripper and a wire brush attached to my electric drill on the chopper frame.

Then wet sand paper , primer , paint and clear. Also some stickers or might find someone who does air brush.

Thanks.

LC. out.
Careful with that paint stripper. Dangerous stuff. If you don't remove ALL the stripper, it will remove the new paint. I have had good luck removing paint on bike frames using a propane torch and hand wire brush.
PI_Asset_976666.jpg


51LNZkdj2SL._AC_SL1001_.jpg


There is a lot I don't know about paint and painting. Fun place to learn is a place like this:
Urban Paint
Looks like they don't have a web site?
Auto body supply shop.

Stay away from the $1.99 spray paint.

Re: air brush. You can do that. How about some pinstriping?
https://www.1shot.com/One-Shot/Home.aspx
Lettering-Enamel__21135.1512066390.jpg


BlkBike10.jpg

No stickers! On Walmart bikes I have seen what looks like stickers under the clear coat.
Chalo said:
I just don't huff gasoline, is all.
Do you like the smell of spray paint?
4GL93_AS01
 
Careful with that paint stripper. Dangerous stuff. If you don't remove ALL the stripper, it will remove the new paint. I have had good luck removing paint on bike frames using a propane torch and hand wire brush.

Sounds good.

I got the steel chopper frame.

I don't have propane though but have wire brushes.

Thanks though as if I do use stripper I will pressure wash it and wipe it down and dry 24 hours.

Then wipe down again and prime.

Paint 24 hours later.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The 26" dual suspension.

After two attempts at installing the gear reduction motor on the front I decided today not to. Way too heavy. The motor is heavy itself and add that bed frame steel and it is ridiculous.

I decided to throw a Bafang back on the front like the Currie. For now I will run one SLA in the triangle and 12S - LIFEPO4 on the top bar in one of my old wooden racks. The 13S - 20 Ah pack needs to be charged and need at least 8 hours to do that.

I am thinking I will charge it 4 or 5 hours with the extension cord then use all three SLAs in parallel for a power bank. I can plug in my 12V DC to 110V AC converter and leave it overnight. I will use my 1.5A - 54.6V charger. The pack is 47.5V so 3.65V per cell.

I need to finish up the wiring tomorrow.

Untitled.png

12S - LIFE = about 12 pounds + 13 pounds SLA so will weigh about 5 or 6 pounds less that the 16S - LTOs. I will have two cargo baskets. Also four running e bikes.

1, The Giant Roam.

2. The Diamondback Outlook.

3. The Currie

4. The 26" dual suspension.

I will need the #420 chain for the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor for #5 e bike.

That leaves me with the 750W gear motor and 800W 36V motors. I can probably install the gear motor on the back of the Haro V3 and the 800W motor on the front. 1,500W total. 20S - LTO. :mrgreen:

That will be #6.

The Steel Schwinn Stingray needs front forks. I did not get the forks from the guy I bought the frame from. I might need to order chopper forks next month. I am not sure what length. I really do not want forks as long as what was on there. Longer than regular forks though. A low profile chopper is what I want. It will steer better. 24S - LTO.

If anyone knows of any please let me know. The 3,000W motor will go on the back. I just need a sprocket. I will need it custom and 80T for 8mm chain. I have a 10T motor sprocket. Gearing will be

download (6).png

The Stingray frame is still in the van which I cant drive until I bypass the heater core as it is shot and not spending $$$ on it. I will use a hose to bypass for < $10.

Yea.

I finally got lightshot to work and can do screen capture again. Looking forwards to riding the 26" dual suspension tomorrow. It has a little more get up and go than the 1,000W chain drive on the back of the Currie. The 12S - LIFEPO4s are the weak link though. Great for 350 to 800W but for 1,000W and > the LTOs rule. Thing is though the dual suspension cant fit a 8S - LTO pack in the frame like the Currie.

My solution will be the 13S - power modules. I am thinking next month I will order a BMS for those. Then the 26" DD hub motor will get the amps it really needs and can lose the SLA. The 12S packs will power the Bafang in the front. Since the power modules are only around 12 Ah together I will use the front Bafang more and only use the rear hub for hills and > 20 mph.

I will have to sacrifice my rear cargo basket though. I do not want any 18650 packs on the top bar or in the triangle. I need them on the rear rack in a steel enclosure. That way if thermal run a way happens it wont turn me into burnt toast. :roll:

It is ok though as when I need extra cargo space I will run the SLA in the triangle and for 1/2 the cargo space I get > double the range. Or I can take the Currie with the LTOS for > 20 miles range. I have all bases covered. :D

Not sure if I can fit a 8S - LTO in the triangle of the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor either. I hope so but if not the power modules will parallel with my 20 Ah factory lion pack as they are both 13S. 20 Ah + 12 = 32 Ah. > 30 miles range. :mrgreen:


Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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tomjasz said:
LTO’ are foreign to me today. I’m finishing a trike build and would not care about weight I have some homework to do. Best LTO maker? 24v max on Sunders post?
M

There doesn't seem to be the level of fraud/misrepresentation in LTO as there is in the more common battery types. I guess consumers and hobbyists buy 18650s and LiPo packs, but if you use LTO it's a much more niche application.

I'm not sure what you mean by 24v max on my post? There'a no inherent limit to what voltage pack you can build with LTO., but due to its low voltage per cell, BMSes tend to become more complex and expensive as you go up. I have a 48v pack, and a 144v built of 3 x 48v.
 
It’s been so long ago I don’t know what my 24v reference was. I
have no lifepo4 experience, but am working on a new trike build and weight is no longer and issue. That and I’m happy at 25kph.

I’m poking around a number of threads for some ideas. I did post a link to a YouTube channel. Julian Illet I think. He designed an interesting PCB to use with Headway cells. Seems a cool design for LTO as well?

https://youtu.be/hgkPWkf16A0

https://youtu.be/aFNhHdHXh3s
 
High discharge is nice to have, without gobs of paralleling (18650) and gobs of connections (tab welds/18650) and gobs of weight (LTOs, lifepo4's) and gobs of bulk (LTO's, lifepo4)

Also remember custom shapes that can fit your battery into smaller places, small cylindricals help without big square things, but you can get a123's and they are 26650 size. Its all in the flavor you want.
 
Yea.

The LIFEPO4 in series with an SLA for 55V was not very successful. It was an experiment that did not yield satisfactory results. I will need to go with my original plan. No where near enough amps and terrible voltage SAG.

It is ok though. I owned all the plugs and wires so cost nothing.

However it will set me back about $20 for an ammo box for the 13S - 7P - 20Ah - Lion pack. That will go on the rear rack with holes drilled in the top and one in the back for the power wires.

My big problem is charging. It takes at least 6 to 8 hours to charge the lion pack. In an ammo box I could probably charge out on my fire escape. I will just need to keep an eye on it and a 5 gallon pail of water handy as well as a fire extinguisher.

Only sparks can come out the top or the hole and can place a clear plastic tote over it if it rains. I will just need to put something on it that weighs about 10 pounds so the wind don't blow it away.

Charging in storage with three SLAs as a power bank probably wont work as those SLAs are about worthless. No way I will run 20S - LTO and 12S - LIFEPO4 for the 26" dual suspension. The front hub motor is a Bafang and only 36V. The 12S - LIFE packs can run that and the 13S pack on the rear rack the direct drive hub.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
FFS The listings are clear. Every listing tells us who is fulfilling the order.Stay away from the dispensary. it makes users stupid.

LOL

You are against cannabis. Probably alcohol too ?

I am not a kid any more.

I do NOT sit around and drink and get high all day.

Maybe a few hours Between after mid night and 6 AM. :lol:

I polished off about 8 beers and a small amount of cannabis. Still got up at 1:30 PM and went to the post office , grocery store and gym for 30 minutes. Then worked on bikes for about 5 hours and rode home.

Weed and a few beers don't make you stupid. Crack , coke , meth . heroin and other designer drugs will turn a normal person into a complete retard. It don't take long. You would have to drink beer and smoke weed 18 to 20 hours a day every day 24/7 to get that frocking stupid. I only do it 4 or 5 hours a day and skip a day or 2 once in awhile.

It's actually the other way around, alcohol will turn you into a complete retard and most other drugs if used safely have far fewer effects on neurological health than alcohol.

That being said, I'm not against alcohol or anything, but it's important to know the facts.

Alcohol is actually way worse for you than most illegal drugs believe it or not, and that is not an opinion but a fact. It messes with just about every organ in your body and studies clearly show it is neurotoxic. It can cause permanent brain damage along with dementia, deficits in learning and memory, mental disorders, and other cognitive damage. [Here is a research paper on the severe neurotoxicity of alcohol]https://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publicat...kQFnoECAoQBg&usg=AOvVaw00fDT9bwgN7WPkmlhLq5vr

Alcohol withdrawal has the worst and most dangerous withdrawal of any class of recreational drug, causing anything from seizures to severe psychosis. Benzodiazepines are similar, but alcohol is still worse.

If you compare this to other drugs, you will see that even stuff like meth which you have mentioned, do not affect nearly as many organs as alcohol and only has some cardiovascular risk. Meth is prescribed to treat ADHD and for weight loss among many other things, it is prescribed under the name Desoxyn. Same deal for cocaine, although this presents more cardiovascular risk. Heroin, which you have also mentioned, started out as a prescription drug aswell and if it is pure and used safely has just as many negative effects as any other prescription painkiller, many of which are dished out like candy in USA.

You mention that designer drugs will turn somebody into a retard. I'm not sure if you even know what designer drugs are, as this covers literally every class of drug and it is a very uneducated claim to say that the entire scope has any affect on neurological health. Many drugs in this field are now being extensively researched for their medical properties treating things like depression and anxiety, such as 5-MeO-DMT, while others have absolutely no danger associated with safe use. Some however are neurotoxic, particularly chlorinated cathinones.

Id recommend getting educated on these kind of topics before spreading stigmatized misinformation about it. I am currently studying pharmacology and work in a harm reduction centre, some of the absolute worst patients in have ever seen were alcoholics.

Im not sure if this is satire, but drinking alcohol for 5 hours everyday is nothing to brush off, that's no good. Doing any drug everyday isnt good, especially if it is a extremely toxic drug like alcohol. And waking up at 1:30pm isnt really an argument for being functional despite drinking
 
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