New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[r0mko]

Hi Narcoleptic, all,

have read your post with great interest as my Tsdz2 36V, 350W motor is also slipping. I'm interested in if you got to the root of the slipping problem.

Please see this short video which shows the slipping problem on my bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_44mkBOOuY

The motor is switched off and it's easy to see that the pedals don't engage the motor a lot of the time. Sometime the pedals slip a few degrees, sometimes they slip for a long time.

PswPower have suggested problem is the Torque Sensor.

Other posts have suggested that the problem is the Sprag Clutch in the Main Gear.

Anyway, thought appreciated!

Apparently your sprag clutch is gone. I've once happened to repair that. You can choose the hard and cheap way and replace only the clutch bearing istself or go easy and expensive way and replace the whole gear with the clutch.

I assume that you don't have access to a industrial press. To replace the clutch by yourself you'll gonna need a sprag clutch itself (search for CSK30P on ebay or aliexpress), a big vise, a gas torch, a mallet and some ice cubes. Just warm up the gear really hot, then apply ice onto the bearing and then knock it out with the mallet. Then warm up the gear again, put the new sprag clutch and gently hammer it in. Then you need to quickly cool down the whole thing to prevent the sprag clutch from overheating. I just dropped the gear into a bucket of cold water.

 

[Nfer]

.......
8, Sensor: CGQ8 double head (CGQ7 before)
.....
[/i]
What does "CGQ8 double head" mean? Better torque sensor?
...

It looks that to me that CGQ7 is the speedsensor CGQS7 (I have seen the "S" difference).
CGQ8 looks the new one. IMHO nothing to do with torque.
On the Tongsheng site I found not yet something with bluetooth

The cgq8 is the speed sensor with a double head connection for lights. You can see it in one of the pictures. Pswpower also sell it when you play for the light set

 

[Rvs4]

Just started having this problem today after 5000 miles on my 52v 750w tsdz2.... I am pedaling and it will get somewhat tight and harder to pedal. Then it will pull me forward like a half turn on its own. Then it will go back to normal. It only happened about 7 times this evening while riding, and not at all for the last hour. I have never had any problems with the motor before. Also, when I'm having the problem I noticed that if I pedal backwards then the chain spins as well. Usually the chain don't spin when I pedal backwards.

 

[Elinx]

,....
The cgq8 is the speed sensor with a double head connection for lights.

In that case it looks indeed only a different controller with bluetooth with the same motor.
This has consequenses for installing (and developing) OSF.

 

[casainho]

,....
The cgq8 is the speed sensor with a double head connection for lights.

In that case it looks indeed only a different controller with bluetooth with the same motor.
This has consequenses for installing (and developing) OSF.

Please find pictures of the motor controller and also, if possible, please donate me a motor so I can do the initial working of disassembling, take detailed pictures and write technical notes on how the motor controller works.

 

[Nfer]

,....
The cgq8 is the speed sensor with a double head connection for lights.

In that case it looks indeed only a different controller with bluetooth with the same motor.
This has consequenses for installing (and developing) OSF.

Please find pictures of the motor controller and also, if possible, please donate me a motor so I can do the initial working of disassembling, take detailed pictures and write technical notes on how the motor controller works.

This is the eBay vendor response

1.We do not sell the controller with the Bluetooth.
2.We also do not sell the 48V 500W motor version, we only have this 36V 250W.

 

[casainho]

,....
The cgq8 is the speed sensor with a double head connection for lights.

In that case it looks indeed only a different controller with bluetooth with the same motor.
This has consequenses for installing (and developing) OSF.

Please find pictures of the motor controller and also, if possible, please donate me a motor so I can do the initial working of disassembling, take detailed pictures and write technical notes on how the motor controller works.

This is the eBay vendor response

1.We do not sell the controller with the Bluetooth.
2.We also do not sell the 48V 500W motor version, we only have this 36V 250W.

Thanks!!

 

[andrewgateway]

I have just bought a 48v 250w TSDS2, that has the splitter on the speed sensor for the lights. Also wiring for the lights is included.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Owskov]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

I have had my Tsdz2 (48v.) for some months now, I run the v.19 firmware, with temp. sensor.
T58 chainring, and commute with a average speed around 35-37 km/h.
My motor gets really hot, 60-65 deg. Celsius.
I have set the temp. limits to 60-70 deg. And for sure it would get much warmer without the temp control.
while the motor is around 65 deg., I can pull 380-400W.
My conclusion is, that:
with my pattern of use, combined with the danish weather (8-15 deg. at the moment) I can pull roughly 400W. continuously.

I have added this homemade heatsink, at the moment, the shape of it, is not perfect, there is a small gap (0,2-0,5 mm) between it and the motor housing. Also it is at the wrong side of the housing (due to production method) taking in consideration where the heat is produced. BUT my experience is that the housing temperature is almost the same everywhere.

After a few test runs, I have not experienced any notable change, my dilemma is this, I really don’t have any good way of testing small progress in my cooling setup. For sure I would notice a huge cooling-improvement, but let us assume that my half-finished heatsink lowers the temp. with 5 degrees in average, I would never know.
so im actually not sure if I am going in the right direction, my solution can for sure get better, but I would like to find a way to test my progress.

The perfect solution would be, a temperature log. Along with a watt log, maybe also RPM of the motor.
That would only leave the ambient temp. as a variable.

I guess that if you are still reading, you are really interested in cooling as a user or maybe as a developer? Or just really bored

My questions for you:
Is there anybody out there, that have done any cooling?
What sort of power can you pull continuously from your unit?
Any ideas about cooling?
Any ideas of how to se results? / logging?

I have these things yet to try:
Get at better fit for my heatsink
Mount it with heatsink paste
figure out a way to transfer heat from the motor and out.
- Fill the unit with oil (will it leak?)
- make aluminum / cupper inserts to fill in the gap internally between the motor and the housing.

The crazy one, cut out at big hole in the bottom of the housing, to have a part of the motor out in the open, and seal the gap around it.


BR the cool biker !

 

[casainho]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

I have had my Tsdz2 (48v.) for some months now, I run the v.19 firmware, with temp. sensor.
T58 chainring, and commute with a average speed around 35-37 km/h.
My motor gets really hot, 60-65 deg. Celsius.
I have set the temp. limits to 60-70 deg. And for sure it would get much warmer without the temp control.
while the motor is around 65 deg., I can pull 380-400W.
My conclusion is, that:
with my pattern of use, combined with the danish weather (8-15 deg. at the moment) I can pull roughly 400W. continuously.

I have added this homemade heatsink, at the moment, the shape of it, is not perfect, there is a small gap (0,2-0,5 mm) between it and the motor housing. Also it is at the wrong side of the housing (due to production method) taking in consideration where the heat is produced. BUT my experience is that the housing temperature is almost the same everywhere.

After a few test runs, I have not experienced any notable change, my dilemma is this, I really don’t have any good way of testing small progress in my cooling setup. For sure I would notice a huge cooling-improvement, but let us assume that my half-finished heatsink lowers the temp. with 5 degrees in average, I would never know.
so im actually not sure if I am going in the right direction, my solution can for sure get better, but I would like to find a way to test my progress.

The perfect solution would be, a temperature log. Along with a watt log, maybe also RPM of the motor.
That would only leave the ambient temp. as a variable.

I guess that if you are still reading, you are really interested in cooling as a user or maybe as a developer? Or just really bored

My questions for you:
Is there anybody out there, that have done any cooling?
What sort of power can you pull continuously from your unit?
Any ideas about cooling?
Any ideas of how to se results? / logging?

I have these things yet to try:
Get at better fit for my heatsink
Mount it with heatsink paste
figure out a way to transfer heat from the motor and out.
- Fill the unit with oil (will it leak?)
- make aluminum / cupper inserts to fill in the gap internally between the motor and the housing.

The crazy one, cut out at big hole in the bottom of the housing, to have a part of the motor out in the open, and seal the gap around it.


BR the cool biker !

Why not going with Bafang motor that has more copper? I think Bafang motors are bigger but can handle more power. Maybe the one +50% power and next one +100 or +200% power.

 

[Owskov]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

I have had my Tsdz2 (48v.) for some months now, I run the v.19 firmware, with temp. sensor.
T58 chainring, and commute with a average speed around 35-37 km/h.
My motor gets really hot, 60-65 deg. Celsius.
I have set the temp. limits to 60-70 deg. And for sure it would get much warmer without the temp control.
while the motor is around 65 deg., I can pull 380-400W.
My conclusion is, that:
with my pattern of use, combined with the danish weather (8-15 deg. at the moment) I can pull roughly 400W. continuously.

I have added this homemade heatsink, at the moment, the shape of it, is not perfect, there is a small gap (0,2-0,5 mm) between it and the motor housing. Also it is at the wrong side of the housing (due to production method) taking in consideration where the heat is produced. BUT my experience is that the housing temperature is almost the same everywhere.

After a few test runs, I have not experienced any notable change, my dilemma is this, I really don’t have any good way of testing small progress in my cooling setup. For sure I would notice a huge cooling-improvement, but let us assume that my half-finished heatsink lowers the temp. with 5 degrees in average, I would never know.
so im actually not sure if I am going in the right direction, my solution can for sure get better, but I would like to find a way to test my progress.

The perfect solution would be, a temperature log. Along with a watt log, maybe also RPM of the motor.
That would only leave the ambient temp. as a variable.

I guess that if you are still reading, you are really interested in cooling as a user or maybe as a developer? Or just really bored

My questions for you:
Is there anybody out there, that have done any cooling?
What sort of power can you pull continuously from your unit?
Any ideas about cooling?
Any ideas of how to se results? / logging?

I have these things yet to try:
Get at better fit for my heatsink
Mount it with heatsink paste
figure out a way to transfer heat from the motor and out.
- Fill the unit with oil (will it leak?)
- make aluminum / cupper inserts to fill in the gap internally between the motor and the housing.

The crazy one, cut out at big hole in the bottom of the housing, to have a part of the motor out in the open, and seal the gap around it.


BR the cool biker !

Why not going with Bafang motor that has more copper? I think Bafang motors are bigger but can handle more power. Maybe the one +50% power and next one +100 or +200% power.

Maybe I should,
I already have the tsdz2 and like I a lot tho!

What are the Bafang models you refer to? - is there configurable FW for those also?

 

[Owskov]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

I have had my Tsdz2 (48v.) for some months now, I run the v.19 firmware, with temp. sensor.
T58 chainring, and commute with a average speed around 35-37 km/h.
My motor gets really hot, 60-65 deg. Celsius.
I have set the temp. limits to 60-70 deg. And for sure it would get much warmer without the temp control.
while the motor is around 65 deg., I can pull 380-400W.
My conclusion is, that:
with my pattern of use, combined with the danish weather (8-15 deg. at the moment) I can pull roughly 400W. continuously.

I have added this homemade heatsink, at the moment, the shape of it, is not perfect, there is a small gap (0,2-0,5 mm) between it and the motor housing. Also it is at the wrong side of the housing (due to production method) taking in consideration where the heat is produced. BUT my experience is that the housing temperature is almost the same everywhere.

After a few test runs, I have not experienced any notable change, my dilemma is this, I really don’t have any good way of testing small progress in my cooling setup. For sure I would notice a huge cooling-improvement, but let us assume that my half-finished heatsink lowers the temp. with 5 degrees in average, I would never know.
so im actually not sure if I am going in the right direction, my solution can for sure get better, but I would like to find a way to test my progress.

The perfect solution would be, a temperature log. Along with a watt log, maybe also RPM of the motor.
That would only leave the ambient temp. as a variable.

I guess that if you are still reading, you are really interested in cooling as a user or maybe as a developer? Or just really bored

My questions for you:
Is there anybody out there, that have done any cooling?
What sort of power can you pull continuously from your unit?
Any ideas about cooling?
Any ideas of how to se results? / logging?

I have these things yet to try:
Get at better fit for my heatsink
Mount it with heatsink paste
figure out a way to transfer heat from the motor and out.
- Fill the unit with oil (will it leak?)
- make aluminum / cupper inserts to fill in the gap internally between the motor and the housing.

The crazy one, cut out at big hole in the bottom of the housing, to have a part of the motor out in the open, and seal the gap around it.


BR the cool biker !

Why not going with Bafang motor that has more copper? I think Bafang motors are bigger but can handle more power. Maybe the one +50% power and next one +100 or +200% power.

Maybe I should,
I already have the tsdz2 and like I a lot tho!

What are the Bafang models you refer to? - is there configurable FW for those also?

It seams I cant find the Bafang with Torque Sensor..?

 

[mctubster]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

Hi, it's not clear to me if your heatsink directly touches the outside of the stator core? If your heatsink is only touching the outside of the case it will not do much as there is a significant airgap between the outside of the motor and the motor case. And air is a great insulator. A few weeks ago in this thread was a discussion about eliminating the airgap using heat conducting pads, bridging the airgap. If you do this your impressive looking heatsink will work very well.

 

[Owskov]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

Hi, it's not clear to me if your heatsink directly touches the outside of the stator core? If your heatsink is only touching the outside of the case it will not do much as there is a significant airgap between the outside of the motor and the motor case. And air is a great insulator. A few weeks ago in this thread was a discussion about eliminating the airgap using heat conducting pads, bridging the airgap. If you do this your impressive looking heatsink will work very well.

Thanks a lot for your answer, the heatsink is only on the outside of the motor casing. I am aware of the airgap inside – between the motor and the housing, as I also address in my post.
I have done some measuring of the surface temp outside of the motor housing, and my readings are approximately 10 degrees below my motor temp reading from the surface of the actual motor. Example, if my motor temp reading is 60 degrees I measure around 50 outside the motor casing, With that in mind – cooling the outside should lower the temperature inside as well. As I also mention in my post, im thinking of ways to eliminate the airgap inside.
Filling the housing with oil, could be a solution, or wrapping copper wire around the motor – not sure how effective that would be, or filling the airgap with copper balls. Can you link to the pads you mention ?

BR Ole

 

[andrea_104kg]

Some cooling solution
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=102046

 

[Owskov]

Some cooling solution
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=102046

Thanks a lot!

 

[gatorsean]

Hello!

Does anyone have the full pinout for the speed sensor? I am contemplating doing a mod to use a bafang speed sensor instead of the TS provided one.

The bafang speed sensors have 3 pins. I assume DC pos, neg, and hall signal. The TSDZ2 plug has six wires. I have attached a copy of the picture that shows the three pins used for programming. What are the other three. I guess speed signal, headlight signal and taillight signal.

Thanks!

 

[ImpulsePurchase]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

I have had my Tsdz2 (48v.) for some months now, I run the v.19 firmware, with temp. sensor.
T58 chainring, and commute with a average speed around 35-37 km/h.
My motor gets really hot, 60-65 deg. Celsius.
I have set the temp. limits to 60-70 deg. And for sure it would get much warmer without the temp control.
while the motor is around 65 deg., I can pull 380-400W.
My conclusion is, that:
with my pattern of use, combined with the danish weather (8-15 deg. at the moment) I can pull roughly 400W. continuously.

I have added this homemade heatsink, at the moment, the shape of it, is not perfect, there is a small gap (0,2-0,5 mm) between it and the motor housing. Also it is at the wrong side of the housing (due to production method) taking in consideration where the heat is produced. BUT my experience is that the housing temperature is almost the same everywhere.

After a few test runs, I have not experienced any notable change, my dilemma is this, I really don’t have any good way of testing small progress in my cooling setup. For sure I would notice a huge cooling-improvement, but let us assume that my half-finished heatsink lowers the temp. with 5 degrees in average, I would never know.
so im actually not sure if I am going in the right direction, my solution can for sure get better, but I would like to find a way to test my progress.

The perfect solution would be, a temperature log. Along with a watt log, maybe also RPM of the motor.
That would only leave the ambient temp. as a variable.

I guess that if you are still reading, you are really interested in cooling as a user or maybe as a developer? Or just really bored

My questions for you:
Is there anybody out there, that have done any cooling?
What sort of power can you pull continuously from your unit?
Any ideas about cooling?
Any ideas of how to se results? / logging?

I have these things yet to try:
Get at better fit for my heatsink
Mount it with heatsink paste
figure out a way to transfer heat from the motor and out.
- Fill the unit with oil (will it leak?)
- make aluminum / cupper inserts to fill in the gap internally between the motor and the housing.

The crazy one, cut out at big hole in the bottom of the housing, to have a part of the motor out in the open, and seal the gap around it.


BR the cool biker !

Its a nice idea and well executed (looks like it takes a little ground clearance though). I seem to remember the discussion further back in the thread seemed to suggest that the internal heat wasn't reaching the case. I'd probably start by measuring the temperature inside the controller and outside the case where your cooling vents are. If you see an increase of heat in the controller but no difference in heat outside the case you probably aren't making enough difference to be worth it. I think the open firmware has some options for temperature sensors.

I think if I was looking into it I'd have a look at the Peltier cooling systems people use for PCs as it seems like you should be able to get the heat to the outside with one of those - although I don't know how much energy those things use as to whether its worth it?

 

[ImpulsePurchase]

I gave up with the back and forth to china over my problem with the Torque sensor (reading about 118-120 on startup with a max value of 130 when standing on the pedals) and decided to crack it open to calibrate the torque sensor. I haven't had enough time to put the bike back together enough to test to see if its cured my problem but I can say that despite my ham fisted/clueless efforts, I failed to totally destroy the torque sensor and now have a much larger set of torque readings (approx 45 on startup to 100 max). For info I am doing this on the stock firmware with the vlcd5 as I was waiting for my extension cable to arrive before setting up. Its a shame the wire for the sensor isn't 2 inches longer or you'd be able to do it without opening the case and voiding the warranty sticker but .... life ... lemons ... etc.

Taking it apart and changing the calibration was simple by following the existing instructions. Putting it back together was a lot more difficult (and took 4 attempts) although I would say that the torque sensor possibly is more resilient than you might think based upon the accidental bashing mine took as I made a mess of reassembling.

If this is useful I'll try and add some more pictures that I took at the time for context. I was going to film it but surprisingly the sensor wasn't broken as I thought so I don't need to .Also please feel free to tell me what things should actually be called as I'm making it up as I go along with some of these things.

Tips for taking it apart.
- basically follow the guides for taking the gear wheel off but I found it a lot easier to screw the chainset back on to get a little extra leverage. Its also easier if you have something to resist against - I screwed the silver lockring back on and anchored that to a wood vice (vice was preventing the lockring from pulling up not clamping onto it), but you could just put it back into the bike frame and use that as your anchor point

Tips for putting it back together

- Just take the motor off. It will be much easier in the long run and save time. I didn't need to remove the battery or lcd as once off I had enough clearance to make changes whilst next to the bike. I managed to crease the inside magnetic sensor ring during the process of putting the sensor back in as each time I did a strike it moved the sensor ring a little so I regularly needed to tease it back into position. I can't imagine attempting this not in the horizontal position.
- Take the pedal shaft out completely including the non-drive side bearing. If you follow the guide for removing the torque sensor then you'll have knocked the circlip off anyway (or removed it if you didn't miss this step). This also gives you an opportunity to put a bit of grease on the needle (?) bearings in the middle of the shaft housing. Doing this allows you to see how much you need to drive the sensor back in again during reassembly. Only put the pedal shaft back in once the torque sensor is back in place.
- Buy good circlip pliers. Cheap ones like I had were annoying.
- be careful you put the non drive side bearing back on the correct side (doh!) of the pedal shaft or you'll have problems.

It wasn't a difficult thing to do - I just made things more difficult by not removing the pedal shaft. I'd say its about 4 hours of effort to do the first time but now I know what to do, I'd probably say I could do it in 1 1/2 - 2 hours (about 30-40 minutes is removing and refitting the kit to the bike so you may need to adjust depending on how complicated your bike fitting is and it also depends on how much preventative greasing you do on reassembly)

 

[ezrider1199]

Has anyone tried to flash the 850c using the DIY method? I will try to attempt it today, wanted to check in here first. Thx

 

[Retrorockit]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

Hi, it's not clear to me if your heatsink directly touches the outside of the stator core? If your heatsink is only touching the outside of the case it will not do much as there is a significant airgap between the outside of the motor and the motor case. And air is a great insulator. A few weeks ago in this thread was a discussion about eliminating the airgap using heat conducting pads, bridging the airgap. If you do this your impressive looking heatsink will work very well.

Thanks a lot for your answer, the heatsink is only on the outside of the motor casing. I am aware of the airgap inside – between the motor and the housing, as I also address in my post.
I have done some measuring of the surface temp outside of the motor housing, and my readings are approximately 10 degrees below my motor temp reading from the surface of the actual motor. Example, if my motor temp reading is 60 degrees I measure around 50 outside the motor casing, With that in mind – cooling the outside should lower the temperature inside as well. As I also mention in my post, im thinking of ways to eliminate the airgap inside.
Filling the housing with oil, could be a solution, or wrapping copper wire around the motor – not sure how effective that would be, or filling the airgap with copper balls. Can you link to the pads you mention ?

BR Ole

You could use some braided copper ground strap to wrap the motor, or since you obviously have metal working ability cut some copper pipe of the correct diameter and thickness to fill the gap using pads and thermal grease to form a thermal interface between the parts. There are low temperature solders that can be applied with a heat gun to hold things together if needed.

 

[Owskov]

Hello everybody,
About motor temperature and cooling.

I want better cooling, to be able to pull more power.. In the following I will describe my setup and use-pattern and hope to hear form anyone who have done some cooling experiments...

Hi, it's not clear to me if your heatsink directly touches the outside of the stator core? If your heatsink is only touching the outside of the case it will not do much as there is a significant airgap between the outside of the motor and the motor case. And air is a great insulator. A few weeks ago in this thread was a discussion about eliminating the airgap using heat conducting pads, bridging the airgap. If you do this your impressive looking heatsink will work very well.

Thanks a lot for your answer, the heatsink is only on the outside of the motor casing. I am aware of the airgap inside – between the motor and the housing, as I also address in my post.
I have done some measuring of the surface temp outside of the motor housing, and my readings are approximately 10 degrees below my motor temp reading from the surface of the actual motor. Example, if my motor temp reading is 60 degrees I measure around 50 outside the motor casing, With that in mind – cooling the outside should lower the temperature inside as well. As I also mention in my post, im thinking of ways to eliminate the airgap inside.
Filling the housing with oil, could be a solution, or wrapping copper wire around the motor – not sure how effective that would be, or filling the airgap with copper balls. Can you link to the pads you mention ?

BR Ole

You could use some braided copper ground strap to wrap the motor, or since you obviously have metal working ability cut some copper pipe of the correct diameter and thickness to fill the gap using pads and thermal grease to form a thermal interface between the parts. There are low temperature solders that can be applied with a heat gun to hold things together if needed.

Im waiting for these - I think that this will work better than the pads. I will keep you updated.

 

[RicMcK]

I finally got around to putting on my thermal pads and compound. I used 1mm, 2mm & 3mm 12.8W/mK pads and 20 gms of thermal compound. ThermalRight Extreme Odyssey 12.8W/mK pads and ARTIC MX-4 thermal compound, all from AliExpress.

The initial test shows 35C motor sensor temp and 32-34C outside case temperature. It is cool and getting rainy here so I can't test in hot conditions until next summer. However, the outside case seems to be very close to the motor sensor temperature. If it overheats now I will add cooling fins to the case as I know that there is good heat transfer to it.

Please see attached PDF

 

[MaddingCrowd]

I have a TSDZ2 mounted to an Xtracycle Edgerunner and it is nearly perfect now.

Thanks to redline1for the encouragement on installing this kit on my Xtracycle Edgerunner.

I took some pics of the aluminum bar adapter I used to get the battery mounted low, behind the motor. There are bolts back there, but they are not standard bottle-mount spacing - I believe they are spaced for a BionX battery. Anyway, @redline1's suggestion was to buy some aluminum bar stock (1" wide, 1/8" thick) from Home Depot and drill it out to adapt. Worked like a charm!

Thought I'd share pics for other Edgerunner owners...

 

[casainho]

I have a TSDZ2 mounted to an Xtracycle Edgerunner and it is nearly perfect now.

Thanks to redline1for the encouragement on installing this kit on my Xtracycle Edgerunner.

I took some pics of the aluminum bar adapter I used to get the battery mounted low, behind the motor. There are bolts back there, but they are not standard bottle-mount spacing - I believe they are spaced for a BionX battery. Anyway, @redline1's suggestion was to buy some aluminum bar stock (1" wide, 1/8" thick) from Home Depot and drill it out to adapt. Worked like a charm!

Thought I'd share pics for other Edgerunner owners...

IMG-1458-2.JPG

Would please fully document your build so it could be linked from the wiki main page, on a gallery of builds with TSDZ2??