New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[fireflyer451]

Calibrating the Torque Sensor question -

I have picked 'Imperial' as my units, but it is not clear to me that during the calibration and subsequent setting of these values, WEIGHT and ADC, in the 'Torque Sensor' panel. Can I use 'POUNDS' as the WEIGHT value or are KILOGRAMS required regardless of my selected Units?

Thanks!

 

[casainho]

But what intrigues me when seeing your bike is the seat. How does it work for you without a "nose" on it? Does it give enough support? I've been looking at a saddle like that but am not convinced it will be any good compared to a wide bicycle seat with a "nose".

I am using that one since 12 years ago, when I found my right leg numb after riding for 30 minutes at relatively high cadence with my first ebike with a hub motor - my legs are kind of large.

I think the issue was pressure on the Great saphenous vein https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_saphenous_vein, I must say that over 12 years I am very happy and I don't want to change this saddle for no one other!! -- I cycle on the city and I also do kind of easy/slow MTB but with strong and fast descents and I also use it with my dropper post on some MTB events.

It is not a saddle but more a rest part, meaning your weight will be more distributed on your legs and arms and less on the butt. I am used to it and I think it forces me to pedal more due to the force/more weight on the legs. On last year I had a kidney surgery and so my prostate were affected but with this saddle I have no issues, it is a big freedom on the middle of the legs while cycling, it is really great!!

The model I have over this 12 years is the Spiderflex https://www.spiderflex.com/ but the original sponge pads were quickly consumed on the first hard MTB events and then now I put my own sponge (bough on a local store, DIY way) from time to time with strong black glue tape.

Once I saw MoonSaddle on a bicycle but I never tested it: https://www.moonsaddle.com/

 

[Retrorockit]

That Spiderflex saddle looks interesting. I have a saddle with a split nose for circulation issues but the cutouts for the sitbones are the next problem on long rides. Very nice.

 

[casainho]

but the cutouts for the sitbones are the next problem on long rides. Very nice.

As I do MTB at slow average 12 km/h, for like pedaling 7 hours a day, I usually get small scars on the legs part where I sit on top of this saddle because a lot of pressure against the metal parts (I prefer that way, to have low quantity of sponge). But I keep doing it and take only 2/3 days to recover the scars, on Tuesday I can be back riding again

I really like the efficiency of TSDZ2 on this travels, at low speed on big hills going at pair with my colleagues and then fast on downhill

 

[hefest]

I want to install double-legged kickstand which I already have but it's impossible with the existing fixing plate that came with the motor.

I found on this picture fixing plate that would do the job but not sure where I can find it. Any ideas?

 

[Retrorockit]

I want to install double-legged kickstand which I already have but it's impossible with the existing fixing plate that came with the motor.

I found on this picture fixing plate that would do the job but not sure where I can find it. Any ideas?HTB1_K.qIXXXXXcIXFXXq6xXFXXXu.jpg

I have a double leg kickstand on mine. I used a 5/16" (USA) heim joint at the motor end (8mm bolt goes right through) and a long draw screw down through the plate provided . I think I had to use a button head bolt at the motor end for clearance. The motor was swung all the way forward to make room for the stand so there was length for this method.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNKVVYG?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
Depending on where you are 8mm might be easier to find.
https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=85235&d=1554920239
https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=99924&d=1579030062

 

[Retrorockit]

[/quote]
I really like the efficiency of TSDZ2 on this travels, at low speed on big hills going at pair with my colleagues and then fast on downhill
[/quote]

I can see the advantage of PAS for off road riding, and the light weight of the TSDZ2 also.
The BBSHD with it's on/off nature and slow reaction both to input and stopping pedaling would be much less desireable. Although many here in the US reprogram them and use them for that pupose.

 

[twiersum]

Is the speed sensor needed? I have a Garmin GPS and my Phone showing me speed. Does the TSDZ2 require the speed sensor? If it does not what am I loosing without having it? Does the display show you a distance to empty or anything like that? Can I comfigure it to show something else in place of the speed on the display?

It does need the speed yes.

No it doesn't

 

[casainho]

I really like the efficiency of TSDZ2 on this travels, at low speed on big hills going at pair with my colleagues and then fast on downhill

I can see the advantage of PAS for off road riding, and the light weight of the TSDZ2 also.
The BBSHD with it's on/off nature and slow reaction both to input and stopping pedaling would be much less desireable. Although many here in the US reprogram them and use them for that pupose.

I usually use average of 100W up to maybe max of 300W when doing MTB - the 300W on some big hills because I have a 40T at rear and my min speed is about 6.5km/h but with a 50T at rear I would have min of 5.2 km/h and max of 240W.

The thing is that I go so slow as others with a regular bike go and so I use kind of low power. The idea of ebike for me when doing MTB is just to assist me on the difference of my physical capacity compared to the others.

Because I use such low power, it is good because it can have light and small motor and battery, so my ebike is more agile when riding -- ideally would have the same weight as a regular bike

A BBSHD weighs 5.5 kgs while TSDZ2 weights 3.6 kgs, that difference of 1.9 kgs almost covers the weight of my battery of 350Wh!! And last time I did ride 6.5 hours, 2000+ climb meters of accumulated, with that battery, using the full 350Wh.

I can understand that others may want to go faster and using much more power, but then, it will be more like a motor cycle and not MTB -- even if we compare the amount of power the motor uses compared to power done by the rider on the pedals.

 

[hefest]

I want to install double-legged kickstand which I already have but it's impossible with the existing fixing plate that came with the motor.

I found on this picture fixing plate that would do the job but not sure where I can find it. Any ideas?HTB1_K.qIXXXXXcIXFXXq6xXFXXXu.jpg

I have a double leg kickstand on mine. I used a 5/16" (USA) heim joint at the motor end (8mm bolt goes right through) and a long draw screw down through the plate provided . I think I had to use a button head bolt at the motor end for clearance. The motor was swung all the way forward to make room for the stand so there was length for this method.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNKVVYG?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
Depending on where you are 8mm might be easier to find.
https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=85235&d=1554920239
https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=99924&d=1579030062

Did you have to use two plates to fix it to the chainstays?

 

[Retrorockit]

My Trek frame had a welded in plate with a hole since the comfort bikes all had side stands to begin with. I added the extra plate that the TSDZ2 kit came with. The Heim joint allowed me to aim it wherever it needed to go. There wasn't any measuring or planning really. I just bought a Heim joint and stuck it in there and then found a way to get the bolt into it. I would have bent up some threaded rod if I needed to, but it didn't come to that in my instance. In fact the angle of the bolt allows the flats on the bolt head to provide a locking function. The motor bolt comes up through the frame in front of the kickstand plate, which is welded underneath in my case.

 

[hefest]

My Trek frame had a welded in plate with a hole since the comfort bikes all had side stands to begin with. I added the extra plate that the TSDZ2 kit came with. The Heim joint allowed me to aim it wherever it needed to go. There wasn't any measuring or planning really. I just bought a Heim joint and stuck it in there and then found a way to get the bolt into it. I would have bent up some threaded rod if I needed to, but it didn't come to that in my instance. In fact the angle of the bolt allows the flats on the bolt head to provide a locking function. The motor bolt comes up through the frame in front of the kickstand plate, which is welded underneath in my case.

Thanks, I ordered some parts. Hope 110mm long M8 bolt is going to be enough length.

My frame also has welded plate for kickstand with a "kink" that will perfectly house Hebie Foldrex 608 double kickstand.

 

[Retrorockit]

SR Suntour (Sturmey Archer) is offering several off road rated short travel forks in the 50-63mm range with 30/32mm stancions for upgrading hybrid bikes that often have 25mm forks. Even a couple Ebike rated heavy duty options.
https://www.srsuntour.com/products/fork/?Wheel_Size%5B%5D=700C&Travel%5B%5D=60&Travel%5B%5D=200

 

[Brlowe]

Are all the motors the same 36v, 48v or 52v?
I ordered a 52v overdrive erosion from Eco-Cycles and now see on the bottom of the motor it is marked 36v.

 

[eyebyesickle]

Are all the motors the same 36v, 48v or 52v?
I ordered a 52v overdrive erosion from Eco-Cycles and now see on the bottom of the motor it is marked 36v.

There are 2 different inside motors in the 36v, and the 48/52v versions. The 36v motor used at higher voltage with certain programming is what really enables the higher RPMs/overdrive.

 

[thineight]

Hi famichiki,
You mentioned earlier that you managed to reduce the time for motor engage-disengage when start-stop pedaling on your v.20 fork. Could you please share the results, if satisfactory, and the relevant code?
Many thanks.

 

[casainho]

Hi famichiki,
You mentioned earlier that you managed to reduce the time for motor engage-disengage when start-stop pedaling on your v.20 fork. Could you please share the results, if satisfactory, and the relevant code?
Many thanks.

I already asked twice the same but I got no response. Maybe it was just a too early victory?? - even because there is no new commit code on famichiki fork.

 

[thineight]

Hi famichiki,
You mentioned earlier that you managed to reduce the time for motor engage-disengage when start-stop pedaling on your v.20 fork. Could you please share the results, if satisfactory, and the relevant code?
Many thanks.

I already asked twice the same but I got no response. Maybe it was just a too early victory?? - even because there is no new commit code on famichiki fork.

It is beneficial to merge all the good ideas, in the Italian forum mbrusa made a modification to improve that timing over buba's code (testing ongoing).
See last post of page 63:
http://www.jobike.it/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=76426&whichpage=63

He also asked feedback from famichiki in order to keep the best solution.. without answer so far.

 

[Retrorockit]

[/quote]
A BBSHD weighs 5.5 kgs while TSDZ2 weights 3.6 kgs, that difference of 1.9 kgs almost covers the weight of my battery of 350Wh!! And last time I did ride 6.5 hours, 2000+ climb meters of accumulated, with that battery, using the full 350Wh.
[/quote]
My street BBSHD weighs over 60# with full road gear and 17.5Ah battery. Too nose heavy to ride in sand, and a real handfull in tight quarters. But for level pavement it's hard to beat. But the fact is a 2HP motor puts you well into Moped territory and you'd better have wheels,tires, brakes and suspension to match. I like my TSDZ2 bike. It's great for smaller or less experienced riders on the street. I built it in a small frame for guests to ride. It's too small for me . I wish I could ride it more. It's a nice bike.

 

[john61ct]

Even a couple Ebike rated heavy duty options.
https://www.srsuntour.com/products/fork/?Wheel_Size%5B%5D=700C&Travel%5B%5D=60&Travel%5B%5D=200

As in, suitable for a front hub motor?

If not then they just mean able to withstand the higher speeds?

 

[69pjc69]

After reading through 267 pages and many thousands of posts I took the plunge and got myself a 48v 750w tsdz2 with the xh-18, reason for getting the xh-18 was for simplicity of changing speed and for ease of use whilst using the walk assist function.
Purchased the kit from pswpower for £249 delivered and the battery, a hailong case 48v 624wh beast of a battery from battery empire for £170 delivered.
Fitting in the motor itself was a breeze as I already had much experience from all the reading on here, hardest bit was fitting the battery as had to fit it upside as the mounts where not in a sensible place at all, in fact can’t think of a single bike I have ever had that this could possibly fit the correct way. Anyway got it mounted, soldered all the joints and then wrapped them in capton and then heat shrink. Did originally plan for ec5 connectors but decided they looked too bulky, plus I don’t plan on taking the battery mount off again so solder it was. Had to use a jet flame lighter as my solder gun couldn’t put any heat into the thick wires, bless it’s little cotton socks, 40w is adequate for Pcbs haha.
Overall think it looks neat and tidy, the chain alignment was spot on and totally aligned in middle where it should be inbetween 5-6, I have a 10 speed cassette paired with a zee clutch derailleur.
Been for a blast and was blown away with the power, on turbo I was cruising with very little effort at 28mph, something I have never ever achieved on this bike in my life, was always setup single speed at front running a 38t.
After 16 mile ride at various speeds I hadn’t even used 20% of my battery so with my riding style over 100 miles should be easily achievable as long as I don’t use turbo too often.
Thank you for the wealth of info Each and everyone of you has provided me. I have no interest in the open source firmware as this performs flawlessly for me as it is. I have a garmin gps and the speed is pretty spot on give or take 0.5mph, the cadence sensor I have is also brilliant as I can make sure I never drop too low as to cause nylon gear issues. My avg cadence is 68 rpm with a max of 98 rpm so as you can see this motor suits my riding style very very well, 650b with fat off road tyres doesn’t make for a speed machine by any stretch of the imagination, but add a tsdz2 and suddenly I’m flying past puzzled hard core road riders, the type that wear tights and eat power bars, one even tried to keep up, but after 2 miles he slowly disappeared further and further back. God bless Tongsheng

 

[Retrorockit]

Even a couple Ebike rated heavy duty options.
https://www.srsuntour.com/products/fork/?Wheel_Size%5B%5D=700C&Travel%5B%5D=60&Travel%5B%5D=200

As in, suitable for a front hub motor?

If not then they just mean able to withstand the higher speeds?

Not really sure about that. You might ask them. Definitely higher weight and speed in mind.
I personally don't see any advantage to doing fwd except on a low powered bike as an add on.

 

[69pjc69]

My first ever pedlec was a front hub unit and it was the worst bike I have ever owned for one very simple but yet rather overlooked reason, turning into corners or should I say trying to turn corners. In my experience and also all the pedlec riders I see who have also encountered the same problem. Try going at any speed and then go round a corner, the wheel wants to continue to go flat out and you end up sliding out. Happened to me too many times that I care to remember. Sounds amazing on paper, in reality is not great

 

[HrKlev]

Hi guys

Sorry if this has been asked before, I havent read through the whole thread yet

I wonder if anyone has installed the tsdz2 in a more "modern" style pressfit BB? Like a shimano PF 92? If I order a fatbike 100mm version and use adapters and 8mm spacers, would that work? Or is the outside diamater of the BB too big that it hits the motor casing?

 

[eyebyesickle]

Hi guys

Sorry if this has been asked before, I havent read through the whole thread yet

I wonder if anyone has installed the tsdz2 in a more "modern" style pressfit BB? Like a shimano PF 92? If I order a fatbike 100mm version and use adapters and 8mm spacers, would that work? Or is the outside diamater of the BB too big that it hits the motor casing?

Sure, you just need some eccentric adapters for installation...

FYI there are 92mm extensions available for this, you don't have to get a 100mm extension... The 100mm may negatively affect your chainline, and give you a wider than necessary q factor in fact...