New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

eyebyesickle said:
The wireless display seems very nice.
It is not a wireless display!!

I started to develop a DIY wireless remote button that had an RGB LED to give feedback to user and it used a small coin battery. In the end, I found the RGB LED to give feedback to user was far from enough!! Since the hardware was similar to SW102 but without the display, I went back with my idea of a wireless remote and built the display with similar hardware and display as SW102 -- so the final result is a DIY, easy to build and repair, display with similar characteristics as SW102. It has also a big advantage, the hardware is easy customize for other devices, like adding CAN communication for other EBikes motor controllers. Also the firmware is fast and easy to customize for other devices, like adding a different variables or configurations menu.
 
rosenbaaron said:
Let me first say that I got 12k miles off of my first tsdz2 kit that I bought from Eco-Ebikes, so my product did last. I used it as a daily commuter for almost two years. I had to replace the original motor at around 6k miles once because of something that was partially my own fault, and I chose to replace the kit when I burned out the replacement motor 6k miles later. These are the issues I experienced, none of them was a "deal" killer, but it was far from ideal. The support was not great, and I was constantly being told the issues in number 1 was related to a magnet.

1. Every time I would keep the charger past the time it was charged my bike would not provide power for 10 to 15 minutes during the start of my ride. It was very inconvenient when I was trying to ride home. After trial and error, I found if I under-charged it or immediately removed the charger that my bike would provide power immediately. I replaced the motor, the power supply, I even had several different displays (SW102, 800C), thatI could repeat it on each display. This makes me think that it was related to the controller, the only part I didn't replace.

2. I eventually replaced my SW102 display with a C5, and the battery would not go past 80% when fully charged. Funny enough, the issue from number 1 went away, and overcharging never became an issue again. When I asked support told me that this was normal because of battery degradation. I explained to them that when my iPhone gets older than a year or two it still charges to 100% despite degradation.

3. The white pin that connects the motor to the controller had a lot of glue on it, that they said was factory installed. I was never able to easily pull it apart as you see in the blue gear replacement videos on youtube. When I was servicing my blue gear and adding more grease, I would just pull the motor out and rest it on something with the white pin still connected and service my blue gear. This was ok until the motor fell and the tiny cables broke apart from it. I bring this up because this was my fault, and I learned that you could use a hair drier to loosen it up and pulled it apart. I replaced the motor with one I found on PSWPower (a great site with great service BTW). The bike ran fine for another 6k mile.

After the second motor overheated and demagnetized itself, I decided to just purchase a new kit from Eonarau. It was a 48V with a C5 display. I still have my original battery, purchased from Eco-EBIKE. Since then problems 1,2, and 3 have completely gone away, I even successfully tested my older 800C and C5 display, and those work perfectly well. This leaves me to deduce that it was something wrong with the controller in the original kit that they sold me. I can even remove the little white clip when servicing the blue gear.

In the future, I think I would only order bare components from them if I needed them in a hurry and it was in stock in the US. All other things I will order from PSWPower.

David w/ Eco Cycles here again... sorry to hear we fell short for you too it seems... we do our best and more often than not can be very helpful, but that doesn't mean anything to those who have experienced what they consider poor support of course. Talk is cheap, it's action that is needed. While sometimes we may fall short, know that we are always open to constructive criticism, and strive to improve...

You definitely have your right to your own opinion and preference of service/support, and are free to state your opinion... all I can do is offer some perspective. I actually am intimately familiar with your case, and in this instance, and honestly am a little shocked to hear you say you received poor support... I think it would only be fair to also mention the very large amount of very responsive support/correspondence that took place over the course of multiple years, and multiple parts that were sent out for no charge... Not trying to argue at all as your experience is your experience, and you have your right to your opinion, but I do feel obligated to offer more of a complete picture for the reader. I do know any problem can be frustrating, and if a motor came from us and you have a problem, then I get it, it was from us... BUT, if you are shooting down one supplier and building up the other, I think it would only be fair if you hold them to the same level of scrutiny - both in communication and part replacement, factoring in the timeline, changes to the TSDZ2 itself over time, etc... I am very open to hearing you out completely to learn and improve, but objectively we were constantly responsive, replaced parts as required, and just had to go through some steps, including checking the speed sensor... That is a very common issue so we do mention it, and if we had not heard from you in months etc we may of not realized that we tried it before...

On the supplier/distributor/support end, situations can be complicated, hard to diagnose remotely, and without certain documentation or demonstration become very hard to address... especially when dealing with motor purchases that are 1-2+ years old... there is also the factor of older systems being paired with newer displays that are designed and offered with newer systems with different firmware etc. When you have a 2 year old motor being compared to a new motor from another supplier, it isn't really an even comparison... it would be the same thing if you compared it to that same suppliers 2 year old motor... Tongsheng has made many changes over the past 2 years, and we have too, if that makes sense. Another factor would be that if your old motor overheated, that can also make clips stuck or cause other damage internally, and that isn't really something that can be attributed to the supplier who sold the motor... things happen over time. Just a bit of insight, sometimes things a little more complicated than the user may realize, and it can be frustrating, but if you take everything into consideration and look at the situation in an unbias manner - a desired solution on one end may not always equate to a fair solution...

At the end of the day, know that we are always open to constructive criticism, and strive to improve... but also that there does have to be reasonable limitations in what we, or any supplier can do when it comes to support.

Ok guys, not trying to flood the ES posts, but did feel this merited a response. My inbox is always open if anyone wants to reach out!
 
casainho said:
eyebyesickle said:
The wireless display seems very nice.
It is not a wireless display!!

I started to develop a DIY wireless remote button that had an RGB LED to give feedback to user and it used a small coin battery. In the end, I found the RGB LED to give feedback to user was far from enough!! Since the hardware was similar to SW102 but without the display, I went back with my idea of a wireless remote and built the display with similar hardware and display as SW102 -- so the final result is a DIY, easy to build and repair, display with similar characteristics as SW102. It has also a big advantage, the hardware is easy customize for other devices, like adding CAN communication for other EBikes motor controllers. Also the firmware is fast and easy to customize for other devices, like adding a different variables or configurations menu.

Ah, last time I checked the project out it was, I definitely have some catching up to do!
 
eyebyesickle said:
casainho said:
eyebyesickle said:
The wireless display seems very nice.
It is not a wireless display!!

I started to develop a DIY wireless remote button that had an RGB LED to give feedback to user and it used a small coin battery. In the end, I found the RGB LED to give feedback to user was far from enough!! Since the hardware was similar to SW102 but without the display, I went back with my idea of a wireless remote and built the display with similar hardware and display as SW102 -- so the final result is a DIY, easy to build and repair, display with similar characteristics as SW102. It has also a big advantage, the hardware is easy customize for other devices, like adding CAN communication for other EBikes motor controllers. Also the firmware is fast and easy to customize for other devices, like adding a different variables or configurations menu.

Ah, last time I checked the project out it was, I definitely have some catching up to do!
Forgot to say that for the display to be wireless, the battery would be to big, so, the best is to keep the wires.
 
AZUR said:
Hi all,

I would like to share with the Forum what I did on the TSDZ2 engine to improve heat dissipation.

Part 2

I acted in 3 areas:
....
3 - Lubricate the engine with a grease suitable for nylon Blue Gear.
I lubricated with a grease that is used to lubricate the nylon gears in the wind turbines. I used the Molykote PG-65 grease.

Below are some pictures.

dissipado 7b.jpg
Dissipador 3.jpg
dissipador 4.jpg
dissipador motor 1.jpg
How is the gear after some time, how mamy km you have did and what power arę you runnig? Also what temperatures range are you using it?
 
Yesterday I were riding from early morning to the night, on the beautiful mountains and their little villages.

I decided to stop using TSDZ2 because I was ashamed on the noise it does while climbing that quiet beautiful places, while others where passing me on EBikes that did no noise at all to the point I could say they were EBikes just because they had motors on the frame.

So I will stop using TSDZ2 mainly because the noise and I will move forward to use a motor like Bafang M500 or some Bosch motor.
I am looking to using a motor that will be easy to repair and control by myself, ideally replacing the original motor controller and display for my owns, running our OpenSource firmware and unlock all the advanced technology we have on TSDZ2, like I really need to fine tune the assist levels to save power to be able to ride day long on this mountains. I also want integration with my Garmin GPS, so I can see the most relevant EBike motor and battery data on it.

I will keep some family EBikes with TSDZZ2, because it is cheap and they do not value / want to pay much more for an expensive EBike with like a Bosch motor.

Any suggestions for a motor??



 
Hey Casainho,

I rescently went back from the brass gear to the blue gear and finding it nice and quiet. I changed only because of the noise and Im really happy with it. Its also amazing how much quieter it is after you service the motor and re-pack it with some grease.

I have another bike with Fazua motor which is super quiet and offers no drag when it is switched off. Can highly recommend the focus paralane 2 with some gravel tyres fitted for some easy mountain trails. It has a small battery but it only needs about 100w to keep it moving along nicely. I was able to get about 100kms out of it.
 
I got contacted by a shop that will probably keep developing TSDZ2 firmware, including later their own display based on our OpenSource one, but with custom options for that shop!!

display-1-small.jpg


jbalat said:
Hey Casainho,

I rescently went back from the brass gear to the blue gear and finding it nice and quiet. I changed only because of the noise and Im really happy with it. Its also amazing how much quieter it is after you service the motor and re-pack it with some grease.

I have another bike with Fazua motor which is super quiet and offers no drag when it is switched off. Can highly recommend the focus paralane 2 with some gravel tyres fitted for some easy mountain trails. It has a small battery but it only needs about 100w to keep it moving along nicely. I was able to get about 100kms out of it.
Thanks.

I may decide to go with Bafang motors, because there are now shops selling them just like TSD2, the kits and repair parts, although slightly more expensive: https://www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-8fun-spare-parts/ultra-g510-mid-motor-parts.html



That Bafang M500 G520 weights 3.4kg, so similar to TSDZ2 and also has 250W, maybe can go to 500W as TSDZ2 can go to 750W peak, which is enough for me, as I need at max 400W peak for some 5 minutes. And max torque: 95 N.m.

Now I need to find a frame on Aliexpress, and I will be building the EBike in parts, choosing the components I prefer.

I would like to build with this frame ::







 
It would be nice to know more of frames where bafang m500 fits. Also TSDZ have motors which need special frame.
 
I don't find the TSDZ2 noisy.
I'm still using the blue gear, with 52v battery, 12A max
I opened the motor yesterday after 10000km for a check up, all was fine and the blue gear was as new.
 
feyris said:
I don't find the TSDZ2 noisy.
I'm still using the blue gear, with 52v battery, 12A max
I opened the motor yesterday after 10000km for a check up, all was fine and the blue gear was as new.
The noise I have is on the big metal main gear. I replaced it recently and I used a gentle amount of grease. Maybe this new main gear that I bought from some random seller on Aliexpress, have any mechanical characteristics that makes it a bit more noisier.

And the noise is mostly at big hills, with motor doing a strong force pulling like 400W and at relatively low speed like 6km/h. The other guys with motors like Bosch, were passing me or at my side, and I heard no noise at all!! while I was ashamed with noise from my TSDZ2 :-(

At moderate speeds, on flat, and pulling like 300W, the wheels noise on the ground are superior to motor noise, so no problem on that case.

I was looking at the graphs and TSDZ2 and I, we together did hills with 12% :)

 
casainho said:
And the noise is mostly at big hills, with motor doing a strong force pulling like 400W and at relatively low speed like 6km/h. The other guys with motors like Bosch, were passing me or at my side, and I heard no noise at all!! while I was ashamed with noise from my TSDZ2 :-(

I run the blue nylon gear, but my motor also became noisy a while back and like you I thought it was the big main gear that houses the sprag clutch, but upon close inspection I found that the pinion gear (this one):
tsdz2-pinion2.png
...was badly worn. I replaced it and kept the same main gear, after about 50km everything was quiet again. I ride regularly with other commercial ebikes and don’t feel mine is much louder than the majority of them, especially if regularly serviced (the UK winter is punishing!)
 
Sorry to hear that you do want to move onto a more quieter motor Casainho, you have done a considerable amount of work on the TSDZ2 and we have all benefitted from you. Thanks.

Go the Bafang M600 / M500 route, very quiet, quite powerful, lots of spares for mainly as yet the M600 which has been around the longest ( do avoid the very early motors which had a steel main gear and were noisy ) and probably has the most development already done on it by the likes of Luna in the States. And a lot of people wanting you to develop it further.

Sadly the Bafang motor out of the box is very good, not quite up to Bosch standards, but pretty close and really with just a tiny bit of tweaking would be a cracking motor. That tweaking though is probably not motor and controller, more App and motor integration and what modern Apps like the Shimano, Fazua, Bosch can do to customise the motor to suit your own application. The Bafang Go App is really awful and badly needs an overhaul. Its here where you could get the most payback, why reinvent a wheel when we know the motor is good.

The latest generation of the Bosch motors are probably the biggest Euro sellers at the moment but knowing Bosch as soon as you began to tinker with them, almost certainly they would be wanting to shut you down.

Some of us have gone over to the Dengfu E10 / M600/M500 combination. Very good quality for a fair price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203640442889?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338766898&toolid=10029&customid=b3270aba428ed663f8a87427304afbfe&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1MiTZlXUBT8e0a3Ihcv7SCw73

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot8rxRnd2DQ

You need to contact Melody at Dengfu as you can buy the frames direct.

The Fazua is also a contender if you want a very low powered engine, worthy of a look but very few full sus mtb frames available and for what it is, its heavy.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Go the Bafang M600 / M500 route, very quiet, quite powerful, lots of spares for mainly as yet the M600 which has been around the longest ( do avoid the very early motors which had a steel main gear and were noisy ) and probably has the most development already done on it by the likes of Luna in the States. And a lot of people wanting you to develop it further.
Good to talk with someone with experience on both TSDZ2 and Bafang M500/M600.

I am afraid to do the switch and all investment and in the end just win a very small amount of noise reduction. How would you compare TSDZ2 VS Bafang M500/M600 in terms of noise? Can you use a factor like saying it is half silent?

And what about Bafang M500/M600 VS Bosch motor latest?

To have more cadence than TSDZ2, the front plate need to have a lower number if teeths - what is the usual number on M500? I have 34T on my TSDZ2.
 
My TSDZ2 with more than 30,000kms is now comparable with the Bosch CX after I changed back to the blue gear and serviced the motor with new grease. It is lacking in power but it is a much better motor for commuting since there are so many adjustments you can make in the firmware to optimise for your riding style. It is not as quiet as Fazua but that motor is very weak and more suited to road riding.

BTW Casainho what ever happened to the Bionic Legs project you were working on.. Would love to ditch the bike and be able to run everywhere with some power assistance !!

I find that all the scooters are going crazy these days, they are very high powered and much more maneuverable than a bike. They can accelerate very quickly being single speed as I lose a lot of time changing gears. I thought the Legs would be better in this regard :)
 
Talking about motors, I spotted this in an EMBN video the other day, looks like it might be the updated version of the TSDZ2 that was talked about on this forum a while back.

AMK-Z2.png

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ3Cd8dri-Y#t=3m42s[/youtube]

Looking at the info behind the presenter it appears to be called the ‘AMK Z2’. I have taken a look on Tonsheg’s website and can’t find any info on it, the TSDZ2 is also missing from their site.

It looks like a much more compact motor, but whether it is quieter and more waterproof will only be found out in time, it would be interesting to know what controller it is using. The presenter quotes the weight at 3.1kg (which is lighter), with 80nm of torque.

This also looks interesting and has been mentioned on this forum before:

https://www.lightest.bike/

...but it’s still not released and is reasonably expensive as well as untested.
 
casainho said:
I am afraid to do the switch and all investment and in the end just win a very small amount of noise reduction. How would you compare TSDZ2 VS Bafang M500/M600 in terms of noise? Can you use a factor like saying it is half silent?

And what about Bafang M500/M600 VS Bosch motor latest?

To have more cadence than TSDZ2, the front plate need to have a lower number if teeths - what is the usual number on M500? I have 34T on my TSDZ2.
As much as we have played with the TSDZ2, no two TSDZ2 motors are the same as far as noise goes. Some are remarkably quiet, others are noisy. We have tried bearings, swapping gears etc and some are just noisy than others. Those motors that have stripped a couple of blue gears such as mine, tend to be in the latter category, we have one motor that rivals the latest Bosch gen 4 motor one of my riding friends has.

I run a 34T front tooth on both my M600 and TSDZ2 mainly because I ride a lot of steep Singletracks locally, many M600 owners run 42T such is its power, it is in another league in comparison to a TSDZ2.

Both the Bosch and Shimano engines drive me nuts when not pedalling and going down rough tracks, they rattle much like “ chain slap “ and one of the Trek Rails that a friend has, would be returned to the LBS such is the noise it makes if it were mine. When riding up hill the TSDZ2 seems noisy, downhill it’s much quieter than a Bosch. :D

The M600 I have is really quiet and really the electrical sound much like an electric Prius makes, overcomes any mechanical noise. The early Brose motors ( rubber belt drive ) is similar along with the Yamaha motor which probably the quietest of all. Compared to the TSDZ2 then the M600 is so so much quieter and yet that electric sound is there in a different way.

Caisanho you have to be a tad careful with your time, as much as you want to explore and develop these motors, with the latest generation of motors, you are in ever diminishing return on your time investment, these latest motors are getting good. In my opinion it’s the integration of the motor to our own personal requirements is where they fail. Simple things like being able to choose the cut off speed whilst on private land, Apps that actually work and allow you to pick ramp up and down speeds that fit your riding, integration with say your Garmin navigation, this is where they are not very user friendly at the moment.
 
Waynemarlow said:
I run a 34T front tooth on both my M600 and TSDZ2 mainly because I ride a lot of steep Singletracks locally, many M600 owners run 42T such is its power, it is in another league in comparison to a TSDZ2.
Thanks for all information!!

I want to be at similar cadence and speed as others no ebike riders, and I see some of them with a very small chainring, like 28 or 30.
I think I am getting fitter and so I want less motor power as also less motor / battery weight, and If I found Bafang M800 motor repair parts and MTB frame, I would go for it.

Waynemarlow said:
When riding up hill the TSDZ2 seems noisy, downhill it’s much quieter than a Bosch. :D

The M600 I have is really quiet and really the electrical sound much like an electric Prius makes, overcomes any mechanical noise.

Compared to the TSDZ2 then the M600 is so so much quieter and yet that electric sound is there in a different way.
Thanks, that is pretty clear.

Waynemarlow said:
Caisanho you have to be a tad careful with your time, as much as you want to explore and develop these motors, with the latest generation of motors, you are in ever diminishing return on your time investment, these latest motors are getting good. In my opinion it’s the integration of the motor to our own personal requirements is where they fail. Simple things like being able to choose the cut off speed whilst on private land, Apps that actually work and allow you to pick ramp up and down speeds that fit your riding, integration with say your Garmin navigation, this is where they are not very user friendly at the moment.
Yes, and Is started projects that I did not even get them to a stable state, because lack of time.

Still I think the key is to reuse as much as possible the motor controller and display hardwares, as also the firmwares. And also have luck to find some developers that can help.

I am weak and not motivated for software, like a mobile app or PC app. But I can develop the firmware and make the integration with Garmin ANT+ wireless EBike.

About the motor controller hardware, we have aready new board, this time very compact, maybe on the size of TSDZ2 motor controller (but this is only the motor controller, the things like torque sensor circuit, etc, must go on another board connected on top of the Bluepill board) - on the firmware sise, it is already driving the TSDZ2 motor or the M365 EScooter motor:



Surface mount components on bottom layer, all of size at least 0805 to be easy to solder:





 
casainho said:
I want to be at similar cadence and speed as others no ebike riders, and I see some of them with a very small chainring, like 28 or 30.
I think I am getting fitter and so I want less motor power as also less motor / battery weight, and If I found Bafang M800 motor repair parts and MTB frame, I would go for it.

I am weak and not motivated for software, like a mobile app or PC app. But I can develop the firmware and make the integration with Garmin ANT+ wireless EBike.
Casainho, yes I think you have gotten into the EBike trap I have spent many years trying to get out of. Analogue riders ride with a front ring of 28 or 30 ( my analogue is 30 ) for very good reason, gearing in the lowest gear with only 200W's of human power to play with up steep hills. With the advent of the single speed front chain rings, to get a very low gear for climbing you have to go out to a 11-50 rear cassette with a 30T front. If you are riding a 29er then even at this point often you cannot get a low enough climbing gear so you have to drop to a 28T, which then means you do not have enough range in the tallest gears for good road work. Some of the latest cassettes are now 10 - 52T to get that range.

Now as soon as you put any motor power, even say 100W's then you are back to fitting a 32 or 34T front ring such is the effect of adding 100W's of power on the flat, even though you are now 4kgs heavier. I ride regularly with analogue riders and I suspect that there is no motor combination that will not give you as an EBike rider an advantage over an analogue rider whilst going uphill. On my TSDZ2 I had it dialled back to 60W's which seemed to be the area which gave no advantage ( motor drag and additional weight ), but as soon as you are going downhill or lifting the bikes, the analogues use much less rider energy and now you as an EBiker are at a disadvantage having given up the gains uphill to match their speed and cadence. Overall at 60W's I seemed to be working harder overall than on my analogue bike.

I looked hard at the M800 and yes its probably the right motor, but there are no frames available other than road or gravel frames + its quite a bit more expensive than the M600.

I've gone a slightly different tack, I've bought a Lapierre EZesty frame ( Fazua ), here you can take out the motor and battery and you have a virtual analogue bike, fit the motor and battery unit and you have a low powered EBike, low enough that you have to pedal hard much like an analogue bike but with a small amount of assistance. I'm just getting to the point in age where my body cannot recover quick enough between rides that I'm hoping with a tiny bit of assistance I can ride more often. Sorry I've been accumulating parts to fit it out and I'm almost at the point of putting it all together, at that stage I will be able to report more. Sadly the weight of the over engineered units are already giving me doubts.
 
Waynemarlow said:
casainho said:
I want to be at similar cadence and speed as others no ebike riders, and I see some of them with a very small chainring, like 28 or 30.
I think I am getting fitter and so I want less motor power as also less motor / battery weight, and If I found Bafang M800 motor repair parts and MTB frame, I would go for it.

I am weak and not motivated for software, like a mobile app or PC app. But I can develop the firmware and make the integration with Garmin ANT+ wireless EBike.
Casainho, yes I think you have gotten into the EBike trap I have spent many years trying to get out of. Analogue riders ride with a front ring of 28 or 30 ( my analogue is 30 ) for very good reason, gearing in the lowest gear with only 200W's of human power to play with up steep hills. With the advent of the single speed front chain rings, to get a very low gear for climbing you have to go out to a 11-50 rear cassette with a 30T front. If you are riding a 29er then even at this point often you cannot get a low enough climbing gear so you have to drop to a 28T, which then means you do not have enough range in the tallest gears for good road work. Some of the latest cassettes are now 10 - 52T to get that range.

Now as soon as you put any motor power, even say 100W's then you are back to fitting a 32 or 34T front ring such is the effect of adding 100W's of power on the flat, even though you are now 4kgs heavier. I ride regularly with analogue riders and I suspect that there is no motor combination that will not give you as an EBike rider an advantage over an analogue rider whilst going uphill. On my TSDZ2 I had it dialled back to 60W's which seemed to be the area which gave no advantage ( motor drag and additional weight ), but as soon as you are going downhill or lifting the bikes, the analogues use much less rider energy and now you as an EBiker are at a disadvantage having given up the gains uphill to match their speed and cadence. Overall at 60W's I seemed to be working harder overall than on my analogue bike.

I looked hard at the M800 and yes its probably the right motor, but there are no frames available other than road or gravel frames + its quite a bit more expensive than the M600.

I've gone a slightly different tack, I've bought a Lapierre EZesty frame ( Fazua ), here you can take out the motor and battery and you have a virtual analogue bike, fit the motor and battery unit and you have a low powered EBike, low enough that you have to pedal hard much like an analogue bike but with a small amount of assistance. I'm just getting to the point in age where my body cannot recover quick enough between rides that I'm hoping with a tiny bit of assistance I can ride more often. Sorry I've been accumulating parts to fit it out and I'm almost at the point of putting it all together, at that stage I will be able to report more. Sadly the weight of the over engineered units are already giving me doubts.
Thanks for all this valuable information for a person like me that is looking for a low power, small and light EBike!!

The compact motor has a rated output of more than 250 W and supports the rider with up to 400% of their own power. However, the torque of 60 Nm is significantly lower than the competition. The integrated battery weighs only 1.35 kg, but has a correspondingly low capacity of 250 Wh.

Yes, this EBike seems a regular EBike!! I wish TSDZ2 could have a lighter version, but also silent ;)

 
devboy-greg said:
Talking about motors, I spotted this in an EMBN video the other day, looks like it might be the updated version of the TSDZ2 that was talked about on this forum a while back.

AMK-Z2.png

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ3Cd8dri-Y#t=3m42s[/youtube]

Looking at the info behind the presenter it appears to be called the ‘AMK Z2’. I have taken a look on Tonsheg’s website and can’t find any info on it, the TSDZ2 is also missing from their site.

It looks like a much more compact motor, but whether it is quieter and more waterproof will only be found out in time, it would be interesting to know what controller it is using. The presenter quotes the weight at 3.1kg (which is lighter), with 80nm of torque.

This also looks interesting and has been mentioned on this forum before:

https://www.lightest.bike/

...but it’s still not released and is reasonably expensive as well as untested.
Maybe the issue was that thing of patent with Bafang??

That AMK-Z2 seems to have a shape to be installed on a specific EBike mid drive frame.
 
casainho said:
Thanks for all this valuable information for a person like me that is looking for a low power, small and light EBike!!
I don't think the low power, small and light EBike can ever exist. The cost of an analogue bike and an EBike ( they are starting to come down in cost on the 2nd hand market ) will always be less than a very light EMtb made of very exotic materials and high end components.

A motor you may want to consider is the Polini, its light and the manufacturers are saying every part is available. Quite often an adaptor can be made, I had my TSDZ2 engine in an M600 mounting.

https://www.poliniebike.com/en/

Join that up with a Light Carbon frame which is only 3.3kgs and say a 300Wh battery and you are in truely light weight territory.

https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-lightcarbon-enduro-full-suspension-ebike-frameset-designing-for-bafang-motor_p150.html
 
My BBS02 36V 500W motor has died and thinking of taking this opportunity to try a torque sensing motor instead.

Reading the FAQ, there is a 36V and 48V motor and only difference is the motor winding to produce 4000rpm at their respective voltage.

Having read that the 48V motor generates less heat and has more torque, can I use my existing 36V 14mAH battery on the 48V motor with the necessary firmware mods. If possible, any pros and cons with this setup for commuting usage (on roads).

Thanks
 
spockie said:
My BBS02 36V 500W motor has died and thinking of taking this opportunity to try a torque sensing motor instead.

Reading the FAQ, there is a 36V and 48V motor and only difference is the motor winding to produce 4000rpm at their respective voltage.

Having read that the 48V motor generates less heat and has more torque, can I use my existing 36V 14mAH battery on the 48V motor with the necessary firmware mods. If possible, any pros and cons with this setup for commuting usage (on roads).

Thanks

I wouldn't recommend it. When using stock firmware (you need to install either OSF or a voltage spesific stock firmware to use different voltage battery on 48V system) the maximum cadence the motor can support is around 90, and if you use a 36V battery instead of 48V you decrease that another 25% so to around 70, and won't get any motor support when pedalling faster than that.

With newer OSF versions you can enable field weakening to reach higher motor speed and thus cadence, but I'm not completely sure if it would work with that combination. (I use a 52V battery with a 36V motor and field weakening does not work, but it is no problem as cadence up to 110 works with higher voltage already). And the field weakening decreases efficiency, so with higher speed you would lose any small advantage you might get at lower speeds.
 
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