Since I have to swap out my controller with a temporary unit, I'm going to redo my cracked connector box while I'm at it. I have been using a 40A AC breaker as an ON/OFF switch since my initial build, and it has several thousand actuations. I had it hot glued to the inside of my box, so I decided to replace it when making the new one. I think I got my $6 worth.
Of course, I'd have to do an autopsy of the old breaker, to see how it's held up, so here is the result. The contacts themselves show visually where the two surfaces mate, which is obviously misaligned (lower right pic). However, there's no sign them getting hot, and scraping against them with my fingernail and pocket knife detects no pitting; both sides are perfectly smooth.
I never operate the switch under load, and the most they've been subject to was 110A at 82V. I have on on/off switch for my controller on my bars, but I turn both switches off every time I turn off the bike.
I'm pretty sure I caused the misalignment when I decided to not use the clamping screw for my battery wire, and soldered directly to the lug. Looks like that allowed the contact to move around a little.
I paid twice as much for the new one, but I like it since it's half the size and will be easier to mount in the box.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYY14MX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Using an AC breaker as a switch works well for my application, since I'm not using it for current protection. It won't trip under load, and I think the contacts, and the braided copper conductor inside of the breaker can handle more current than the 40A rating by a good margin.
Of course, I'd have to do an autopsy of the old breaker, to see how it's held up, so here is the result. The contacts themselves show visually where the two surfaces mate, which is obviously misaligned (lower right pic). However, there's no sign them getting hot, and scraping against them with my fingernail and pocket knife detects no pitting; both sides are perfectly smooth.
I never operate the switch under load, and the most they've been subject to was 110A at 82V. I have on on/off switch for my controller on my bars, but I turn both switches off every time I turn off the bike.
I'm pretty sure I caused the misalignment when I decided to not use the clamping screw for my battery wire, and soldered directly to the lug. Looks like that allowed the contact to move around a little.
I paid twice as much for the new one, but I like it since it's half the size and will be easier to mount in the box.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYY14MX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Using an AC breaker as a switch works well for my application, since I'm not using it for current protection. It won't trip under load, and I think the contacts, and the braided copper conductor inside of the breaker can handle more current than the 40A rating by a good margin.
