Overclocking Unite Motor MY1016

gogo said:
I've never seen anyone on ES comment about this.
Click to expand...
First time I've come across it.. The Staton site isn't the easiest to navigate around :)
That would make it even easier to mount a sprocket. Looks like a LH version of the freewheel used in the Cyclone kit... Not sure why they call it a sprag clutch, it doesn't appear to be one.
 
If you don't mind some noise, the MY1018z is a great option. It has the gearbox built right onto the motor, makes everything much simpler. Shaft rpms for peak power are around 450rpms or so. It comes with a 9 tooth sprocket that fits with a bmx chain.

Check out my builds below, where I use this motor to drive my cranks. It's super efficient on hills and still allows me to get upper 20mph with some pedaling assistance.

I love it except for the noise. But if it's usually windy out, I don't even really hear it much. $65 at tnc scooters
 
gogo said:
I've never seen anyone on ES comment about this.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...AND_thread_freewheel_sprag_clutch-967-25.html
Click to expand...

EVDeals has a similar hub.

See the Currie USPD rear wheel hub. You can put a south paw freewheel on the left side and a regular freewheel on the right side. The draw back of this hub is that the axle will bend if you try to use a 7 speed freewheel. I am using a single speed freewheel with no problems on this hub. You probably can get away with a 5 speed, but I have only tried a 7 speed and a single speed freewheel.

Bubba
 
Nice to know that a 16$ LH thread freewheel is available.. I love these budget build threads.

Personally I'd have a hard time forking over $50 for ANY bicycle hub. I remembered I got my $20 flip hubs from iro's bargain basement, but I just checked the site and all the rear hubs are gone.
 
I'm happy with EV Deal's "Currie" hub, since I wouldn't have to get someone to weld anything. I'm not sure if the wheels I have lying around are 36 or 32 spokes. Gotta check.
$50 is a bit much, especially since I'd have to get my local shop to lace the spokes. But, I used a bike that someone threw away. So I don't feel too guilty :D
 
So...Let me get this straight.If I want to avoid machining/welding use the Currie hub from EV Deals,I ought to mount a LH Bicycle sprocket on the LH thread side (Instead of the usual RH on RH side), since the 90T sprocket is probably RH thread. Mount in the bicycle in such a way that the LH thread side becomes the RH side etc. Try saying that 3 times fast!
 
No they are saying you should mount it the regular way and just have the motor drive on the left side of the bike.

It'd be a lot cheaper to use a "regular flip flop hub" with right hand threads on both sides, then you could use that cheap 90t sprocket. The problem is.. you need to figure out how to stop the motor from wanting to spin the sprocket off the hub. That is where you earn your savings.

With the Currie setup you will be out $hub, $freewheel, plus you need to figure out how to get a 90t+ sprocket bolted on to that 16t freewheel. You're probably looking at $100 total but it has the advantage that the threads are the right way.
 
For what it's worth here's my experience with the Currie kit.

I just finished building a bike with the Currie kit.
I'm running 35% higher gearing than the stock setup and I'm easily going over 20 mph.
Of course, it's not as strong going uphill but it's strong enough for me, an experienced cyclist.

The way that I achieved the 35% higher gearing is with a 16 instead of the stock 20 tooth freewheel AND rebuilding the 26" wheel that came with the kit with a 700c rim. The bike I installed it on is a 29er which is a mountain bike with 700c wheels instead of the usual 26" wheels.

The motor has never gotten hot. The motor and gear reduction are very, very quiet. That really came as a surprise. It's so quiet that other cyclists are not aware that I'm riding an electric bike.

The Currie hub is not all that great but it works. I took it apart and replaced the grease with Phil Wood grease. The Stanton Inc. hub looks good.

I'm running a 7 speed freewheel on the other side. I don't worry about bending or breaking the axle because it's a solid steel axle, not hollow.

The next thing I'm going to do is put a freewheel on the motor and run the chain to a left side crank for a crank powered bike. Stanton Inc. makes freewheel adapters but none are the correct size to fit the Currie motor shaft so.....I'll make a freewheel adapter, adapter. Better than reinventing the wheel. When I get this accomplished I will be able to run a quality 9 speed cassette hub.

The Stanton Inc. freewheel adapters come in both 30mm and 1 3/8" sizes. 13, 14, and 15 tooth freewheels fit the 30mm adapters. 16 tooth and larger freewheels fit the larger 1 3/8" adapters.

One more thing. When I put the freewheel on the motor I will be able to use regular right threaded freewheels. They are far more common than left threaded freewheels and are available from 13 to twentysomething teeth.
 
The ACS Southpaw is a 16T LH thread freewheel sprocket for BMX bikes that I think will thread onto the left side of the Currie hub. It retails for under $20. You can either do most of your reduction before you get to it or bolt on a larger sprocket. I've been using one with a MY1016 in a different configuration and it seems to be holding up well - jd
 
vanilla ice said:
What do you mean "kit?" How much was that??
Click to expand...

Currie currently has these for $399 with free shipping.
http://www.izipusa.com/116-currie-electro-drive-conversion-kit-w-plug-play-battery-pack.html

It includes the 450 watt motor with reduction gears, mounting plate, thumb throttle, controller, rear rack, 24 volt 10 amp lead acid battery, and complete rear wheel. The wheel comes with a 20 tooth freewheel on the left side but without the 7 speed freewheel on the right side.

The stock 20 tooth freewheel has no provision for removal but, nonetheless, there is a way to remove it.

I actually bought a complete bike for $299 from Walmart about a year ago and stripped off the electrical parts and whatever else was usable.

I tried using the brake levers from the complete bike because the left lever has a motor cut off switch but they were so awful that I replaced them with inexpensive but good quality mountain bike levers. I don't miss the cutoff. It actually made the bike harder to ride because I couldn't brake and throttle at the same time. Interestingly, the kit comes with no brake levers and relies solely on the release of the throttle to shut the motor down. I've had no problems without the cutoff switch.

I'm also using the twist throttle from the complete bike but I'd rather have the thumb throttle that comes with the kit. I find that I have to adjust my grip to give it full throttle. The thumb has a greater range of motion than the wrist and the other four fingers can keep a good grip on the handlebar.
 
blueb0ttle2 said:
I'm happy with EV Deal's "Currie" hub, since I wouldn't have to get someone to weld anything. I'm not sure if the wheels I have lying around are 36 or 32 spokes. Gotta check.
$50 is a bit much, especially since I'd have to get my local shop to lace the spokes. But, I used a bike that someone threw away. So I don't feel too guilty :D
Click to expand...

This possibly might be of some interest to you or others considering a similar setup.

I was considering this part http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/izip-cb-mtn-rear-wheel-assembly.html for a build a few months ago.

The description, specs, compatibility does not provide much information. Plus, the picture is not of the LH side of the wheel assembly. LH freewheel ?? Tires included, etc...

I tried emailing them for more information and possibly a picture. No response. :( I did not bother to call during business hours because I decided to go a different direction.

For $87.99 + shipping, this could be a good deal for someone.
 
Unfortunately, I can only fit up to a 1.5" tire in my machine. I'm glad to see there's a new ezip wheel out there, since I use an ezip to commute :D
A source of spare parts is always welcome. Currie's website has few parts, and for fairly high prices .
I'll have a look at my ezip wheel, though. If I can fit a 1.5" tire on it, it would make life much easier. I wouldn't have to hire my local shop to lace the wheel. All I'd ask of them is to replace the Currie motor gear with the 90T. Simple, if it's the right thread. More research is needed.
 
It looks unlikely that I can fit a 1.5" tire on a 2" wheel. The Currie wheel has an inner width of 25mm, whilst my current wheel has a width of 19mm. According to Sheldon Brown's website, that is pushing it a little.
So, I'll probably use the hub on EV Deals, and get it laced by my local shop. I must be their favorite customer by now :p
 
I've been doing a touch of research, and it is almost certain that the 90T sprocket is RH thread. However, I need it to be on the LH side of the bicycle. It is obvious that in order for my bicycle to work properly (Sans welding) I need a hub which has threads in opposing directions on either side of the hub. If I use the Currie Hub from EVdeals (with RH thread for the pedaling freewheel on the RH side) can a RH thread sprocket fit on a LH thread hub if it is on the LH side of the bicycle? Here is where my lack of experience begins to show :roll:
If this is not possible, then I would probably have to buy a 72T sprocket that fits on my current hub neatly. 11:72 is not ideal, but it is certainly preferable to the 11:54 set-up I have now. Also, this would DEFINITELY not make overclocking an option. All you experts out there are probably cringing at this proposition, but I am not willing to dish out more than $100 on this project, and having any custom machine-work or welding done would make prices sky-rocket.
P.S. Should I just cut my losses and try to find a brushed hub motor? I know that this is not the hub-motor portion of this forum, but it's a thought.
 
If you can do a little metal work you can do it pretty cheap. Pick up the LH thread ACS Southpaw 16T sprocket I mentioned earlier for about 20 bucks. It has a freewheel designed for left side installation and I think the threads will work with the Currie hub (24 tpi x 1.37"). Then cut the center out of the 90T sprocket. Carefully lay the Southpaw in the exact center of the 90T and mark in the "valleys" of the Southpaw teeth at the cardinal compass points (N,S,E,W). Drill at those places and bolt the sprockets together. I put pix below of how I did that with a Southpaw and a 36T sprocket. The extra holes you can see were in the 36T when I bought it. I used an aluminum backing ring but you could just use washers. The only thing I would worry about is if the Southpaw can handle the torque - jd

ps - if you have a local voc-tech school they might do it for you for free
 

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I've wimped out and decided to go for a hub motor. I thought it best given the traps I set for myself as I was building my bike :roll:
I found one on the cheap, that should fit my bike and controller. Thank you very much for your input, and maybe I'll use chain drive next time. I very much enjoyed my bike while it was running with chain drive. There's a primitive charm that sleek hub motors don't have :D
 
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=my1016+reduction&_sop=15

maybe i missed another post, but this seems what u want - swap in the reduction gear model to suit - 9.78:1 - perfect

I hear they run up to 44v using the bog standard 24 v controllers.

still mystefied they dont vary claimed power specs

eg, advertise a 36v 350w kit, yet use a 24v 350 watt controller. surely this would produce 1.5x this power?
 
Gearing

11-54t @ 2800rpm = ~45mph
Gearing will produce pitiful torque and inefficient-wasteful-damaging heat!



11-90t still peaks near 27mph, which is still geared way too high for motor capability!

Sprocket Calculator

To save money ...
Consider the MY1016z3 24V 350w @ $52
308rpm @ 24V

Proper gearing should safely allow 36V usage.
See - eTrike - MY1016z3
 
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