Please help with next step troubleshooting!

[docw009]

It's not a clear pic, but do your display, throttle, and brakes feed into a single harness? If so, trace the cable from the display til you get to a round connector. Unconnect it, and reseat it. First ebike we ever owned, had a dead display at the dealer. Tech called the importer, and was told to re-seat the connector. AFter I saw it working, I was dubious, but I wrote the check. Bike never had an issue afterwards.

l

As for the controller, unless the top lid come off, don't try to disassemble it further. The little screws that fasten the transistor to the side of the case are what keeps you from sliding out the coircuit board. They're not easy to replace unless the top comes off.

 

[meisel]

It's not a clear pic, but do your display, throttle, and brakes feed into a single harness? If so, trace the cable from the display til you get to a round connector. Unconnect it, and reseat it. First ebike we ever owned, had a dead display at the dealer. Tech called the importer, and was told to re-seat the connector. AFter I saw it working, I was dubious, but I wrote the check. Bike never had an issue afterwards.

lfinal.JPG

As for the controller, unless the top lid come off, don't try to disassemble it further. The little screws that fasten the transistor to the side of the case are what keeps you from sliding out the coircuit board. They're not easy to replace unless the top comes off.

final2.JPG

Thanks again! I didnt notice the pictures didnt link to the full resolution ones that was uploaded. Anyway is this the connector you mean?

https://ibb.co/0nQ5skM

Have tried reconnecting it several times but to no use. The pins inside looks totally fine.

Other than that i got these connetors where the left "bunch" except red and black battery power cables goes to display/throttle, not sure which ones are to what though.

https://ibb.co/p3QNNwf

Regarding the controller the top is welded shut so its not coming off. Any tips on how i can measure if its going any voltage towards the display or motor?

 

[AngryBob]

First, it might be useful for future readers for you to explain clearly, and in great detail, what steps were followed which produced the first set of photos, which were unusable, and exactly how the problem was resolved.

Second, the procedure has already been explained, but I will repeat it. First, carefully trace the wire bundles to find the one which goes to the display. Next, disconnect the connector, as shown in the new and improved photo, and probe the end which comes from the controller. Black to red should be the active one, but with Chinese quality control and build standards, it could be any pair. If there is no pair which shows output voltage, then the controller is the problem. If you do show voltage, then it is something else.

My guess at this point is that your upgrade battery does not match the original, and the increased voltage output exceeded the limits of the hardware, likely either the controller or the display itself.

 

[TommyCat]

With the battery connected, full battery voltage should be available between the RED (48vdc+) and BLACK (ground) wires going to the display. (according to manual referenced below...)

As the King-Meter SW-LCD manual only gives the wire colors, and NOT the pin-outs of the HIGO connector. With the battery disconnected, it's up to you to trace by checking the continuity of all 5 wires from the controller's PCB board terminals of the colored wires to their corresponding pins in the connector. Write and draw up all these corresponding connections... Then after reconnecting the battery CAREFULLY check for voltage at the pins in the connector on the pins that come from the RED and BLACK wires at the PCB board, as shorting high voltage could cause considerable harm.

For reference:
Access to the full KIng-Meter SW-LCD manual can be found at this link, on the download page, third page in at the bottom.
http://www.king-meter.com/#/download

 

[meisel]

First and foremost! Super thankfull towards you guys! Ive been able to get a bit further and the controller seems to be sending the power on towards the controller.

With the battery connected, full battery voltage should be available between the RED (48vdc+) and BLACK (ground) wires going to the display. (according to manual referenced below...)

As the King-Meter SW-LCD manual only gives the wire colors, and NOT the pin-outs of the HIGO connector. With the battery disconnected, it's up to you to trace by checking the continuity of all 5 wires from the controller's PCB board terminals of the colored wires to their corresponding pins in the connector. Write and draw up all these corresponding connections... Then after reconnecting the battery CAREFULLY check for voltage at the pins in the connector on the pins that come from the RED and BLACK wires at the PCB board, as shorting high voltage could cause considerable harm.

For reference:
Access to the full KIng-Meter SW-LCD manual can be found at this link, on the download page, third page in at the bottom.
http://www.king-meter.com/#/download

First, it might be useful for future readers for you to explain clearly, and in great detail, what steps were followed which produced the first set of photos, which were unusable, and exactly how the problem was resolved.

Second, the procedure has already been explained, but I will repeat it. First, carefully trace the wire bundles to find the one which goes to the display. Next, disconnect the connector, as shown in the new and improved photo, and probe the end which comes from the controller. Black to red should be the active one, but with Chinese quality control and build standards, it could be any pair. If there is no pair which shows output voltage, then the controller is the problem. If you do show voltage, then it is something else.

My guess at this point is that your upgrade battery does not match the original, and the increased voltage output exceeded the limits of the hardware, likely either the controller or the display itself.

So by looking at the schematics on the manual i was able to find the power cables to the display (it said it should have cables colored red, black, blue, green and yellow so just found the connector going towards the display with these colors). On the connector from the controller towards the display is measured the power from the pin coming from the red and black cable and the output read +54v. Picture from where i measured:

I also noticed in the manual of the display in the schematics it says the red cable carries 24v/36v, can it, as you are suggesting AngryBob be that it isnt made for 48v, and therefore cant start?

A second question, in my earlier post i posted a picture of a round connector closer to the display without any cables showing. Is it possible too measure the power here? or closer to the display, just to make sure it isnt the cable that is acting up? Or do i have to cut the cable and find red/black inside and measure there in that case?

Once again! Thanks for helping me forward, i'm atleast semi confident the controller seem to be working now! For someone that hasnt touched electrical components since like junior high, this is a probably my greatest electrical enginerring achievement in my whole life!

 

[TommyCat]

Ive been able to get a bit further and the controller seems to be sending the power on towards the controller.

I'm thinking you meant to say... towards the display?

So by looking at the schematics on the manual i was able to find the power cables to the display (it said it should have cables colored red, black, blue, green and yellow so just found the connector going towards the display with these colors). On the connector from the controller towards the display is measured the power from the pin coming from the red and black cable and the output read +54v.

:thumb:

A second question, in my earlier post i posted a picture of a round connector closer to the display without any cables showing. Is it possible too measure the power here? or closer to the display, just to make sure it isnt the cable that is acting up? Or do i have to cut the cable and find red/black inside and measure there in that case?

Please use the method described below using resistance or continuity functions of your meter to verify the soundness of the wires in the wiring harness, as well as determining pin-out of the round HIGO connector. (Substitute PCB board terminals for female 5 pin, in a straight line, connector.) Then you can check for voltage as close to the display as possible, with out splitting open the cable casing.

As the King-Meter SW-LCD manual only gives the wire colors, and NOT the pin-outs of the HIGO connector. With the battery disconnected, it's up to you to trace by checking the continuity of all 5 wires from the controller's PCB board terminals of the colored wires to their corresponding pins in the connector. Write and draw up all these corresponding connections... Then after reconnecting the battery CAREFULLY check for voltage at the pins in the connector on the pins that come from the RED and BLACK wires at the PCB board, as shorting high voltage could cause considerable harm.

If you want to jump ahead a bit... :wink:

You can bypass the display by CAREFULLY jumping the RED and BLUE wires at the display connector from the controller where you've established a 54vdc output voltage. (leave the display disconnected.)
This will power up the controller's 5vdc regulated voltage output used for the electronics when the battery is reconnected. You can verify this at the throttle connection, RED to Black. Or hopefully just twist the throttle... Being ready for it!

 

[DAND214]

If you still have the charger from the old battery, read the label to see what voltage it was. If it's 48 volt you have the correct voltage of the controller, if it says 36 you might of found your problem. Some controllers won't work above the listed voltage.

Dan

 

[TommyCat]

OP's current specs...

Battery: rated voltage... 52 volt nominal.
Controller: rated voltage... 48 volts.
Display: rated voltage... 24 to 72 volts.

Some controllers won't work above the listed voltage.

True, as there are exceptions to every rule... notably the Bafang controller firmware voltage issue.

But would it keep a display that's rated at 72 volts max from at least lighting up?

 

[ghta]

I've boughten 4, 12v 15ah batteries, a Fast Scooters throttle and a fast scooters motor controller for my razor rsf650
Which charger do I get with the stock 3 prong set up that go INTO, the bike... ONLY THE CHARGER IS WHAT I'VE NEEDED ALLL WASHINGTON'S ALREADY DONE GONE SUMMER!!!haha

 

[AngryBob]

There is something that needs some direct clarification.

OP has described cables and connectors "going towards" and "closer to" the display.

There is a cable directly connected to the display. Grab it. Do not let go. Follow THAT PARTICULAR cable, and no other, not one CLOSE TO it, not one NEAR IT, but that cable and that cable ONLY, until you get to a connector, ON THAT CABLE. Open the connector, and test.

There may very well be more than one cable that appears to match the description in the manual, and it is also very possible that the actual display cable in question, does NOT repeat NOT match the description given in the manual. Use the procedure detailed above.

Now, once it is verified that the correct cable to the display does, in fact, have voltage, that leaves only a few possibilities. Either the display died right when you got the new battery, or it cannot handle the slightly increased voltage. Possible this unit is an older one than that referred to in the quoted manual describing voltage up to 72V. Possible it is defective. Possible the manual is simply wrong.

Choices then become to hot wire it as described and operate without display functions, get a new one and see if the manual is actually correct for that particular version of the display, get a whole new display and controller combination, sell the bike and get a new one, or find alternative transport.

 

[meisel]

There is something that needs some direct clarification.

OP has described cables and connectors "going towards" and "closer to" the display.

There is a cable directly connected to the display. Grab it. Do not let go. Follow THAT PARTICULAR cable, and no other, not one CLOSE TO it, not one NEAR IT, but that cable and that cable ONLY, until you get to a connector, ON THAT CABLE. Open the connector, and test.

There may very well be more than one cable that appears to match the description in the manual, and it is also very possible that the actual display cable in question, does NOT repeat NOT match the description given in the manual. Use the procedure detailed above.

Now, once it is verified that the correct cable to the display does, in fact, have voltage, that leaves only a few possibilities. Either the display died right when you got the new battery, or it cannot handle the slightly increased voltage. Possible this unit is an older one than that referred to in the quoted manual describing voltage up to 72V. Possible it is defective. Possible the manual is simply wrong.

Choices then become to hot wire it as described and operate without display functions, get a new one and see if the manual is actually correct for that particular version of the display, get a whole new display and controller combination, sell the bike and get a new one, or find alternative transport.

I will do some double checking! The cable measured is the one marked as display in the manual, it also seems to match in size and direction. Now following it all the way is harder then it sounds as it goes through (inside) the frame. But i will do my best to check this.

 

[meisel]

Ive been able to get a bit further and the controller seems to be sending the power on towards the controller.

I'm thinking you meant to say... towards the display?

So by looking at the schematics on the manual i was able to find the power cables to the display (it said it should have cables colored red, black, blue, green and yellow so just found the connector going towards the display with these colors). On the connector from the controller towards the display is measured the power from the pin coming from the red and black cable and the output read +54v.

:thumb:

A second question, in my earlier post i posted a picture of a round connector closer to the display without any cables showing. Is it possible too measure the power here? or closer to the display, just to make sure it isnt the cable that is acting up? Or do i have to cut the cable and find red/black inside and measure there in that case?

Please use the method described below using resistance or continuity functions of your meter to verify the soundness of the wires in the wiring harness, as well as determining pin-out of the round HIGO connector. (Substitute PCB board terminals for female 5 pin, in a straight line, connector.) Then you can check for voltage as close to the display as possible, with out splitting open the cable casing.

As the King-Meter SW-LCD manual only gives the wire colors, and NOT the pin-outs of the HIGO connector. With the battery disconnected, it's up to you to trace by checking the continuity of all 5 wires from the controller's PCB board terminals of the colored wires to their corresponding pins in the connector. Write and draw up all these corresponding connections... Then after reconnecting the battery CAREFULLY check for voltage at the pins in the connector on the pins that come from the RED and BLACK wires at the PCB board, as shorting high voltage could cause considerable harm.

If you want to jump ahead a bit... :wink:

You can bypass the display by CAREFULLY jumping the RED and BLUE wires at the display connector from the controller where you've established a 54vdc output voltage. (leave the display disconnected.)
This will power up the controller's 5vdc regulated voltage output used for the electronics when the battery is reconnected. You can verify this at the throttle connection, RED to Black. Or hopefully just twist the throttle... Being ready for it!

yes, sry misswrote. towards the display is correct.

Sry for noob question, but what does jumping the cable mean in this context? Should i connect the red and blue pins/cable at the display connector and then measure output to throttle?

 

[meisel]

If you still have the charger from the old battery, read the label to see what voltage it was. If it's 48 volt you have the correct voltage of the controller, if it says 36 you might of found your problem. Some controllers won't work above the listed voltage.

Dan

I think i might have it laying around so ill check. Looking at the specs online for my old battery it says 48v, and compared to the commonly sold 36v bike i definitely had more power.

 

[AngryBob]

Yes, "jumping" the two wires means to connect them. This should "hot-wire" the connection, essentially bypassing the display and turning the unit on. The throttle should then be active and apply power to the motor. The display will be non-functional, but the bike should run.

The manual does say it is a 24-36V unit. It also says "Some of the version of the e-bike LCD may have slightly difference, all with actual use version." Read that a few times. Ah, the wonders of chinese manuals. My all-time favorite is "if pin 3 be behind pin 5, then pin 7 be on pin 9". Great fun.

The manual does not clearly show the cable connection to the display. It may be a permanent connection, it may have a removable connector, at the display itself. Since you need this, it is probably not there.

Cables made inaccessible by being run thru the frame is nice and neat and clean. Until you have a problem, and need to identify a particular cable. They may have been sloppy and you can manually tug a specific cable, while holding the others stable, and checking for movement at the exit point. However, since you need them to have been sloppy, they will probably be tightly bundled together and firmly attached, invisible inside the frame, making specific identification impossible. Try the tug test a few ways, very carefully examine cable markings and diameter, they might be slightly different physically or you might be able to get a little bit of movement in order to identify with certainty. Often you can firmly hold the other cables, at both ends, while tugging the one cable in question, while also holding it at the other end, and checking for slight movement. Having an extra hand, or even two, can be useful.

The question about the markings on the ORIGINAL charger seems to be more important as time goes on. Detail this.

It is certainly possible that the display chose this precise moment to fail, for some unknown reason. That type of seeming coincidence absolutely can and does happen. It is also possible that the ONE and ONLY CHANGE made to the system as a whole, the new battery, is somehow directly responsible for the problem. Do you still have the old battery, if so is it even basically functional? Don't need it to make the system work, just to see if it will power the display, assuming it is not fried.

It is also possible that the connector you are examining, which is not detailed or even much more than mentioned in the manual, is for something else and not the display. "Some of the version of the e-bike LCD may have slightly difference, all with actual use version."

 

[TommyCat]

Sry for noob question, but what does jumping the cable mean in this context? Should i connect the red and blue pins/cable at the display connector and then measure output to throttle?

Yes, AngryBob described it well!

Yes, "jumping" the two wires means to connect them. This should "hot-wire" the connection, essentially bypassing the display and turning the unit on. The throttle should then be active and apply power to the motor. The display will be non-functional, but the bike should run.

As the voltage will be high, care should be taken not to accidently short or allow the jumper wire ends to touch anything else.
That said, the current draw, or the amount of power running through the wire is low. So a relatively smaller wire or a single alligator clip connecting the two can be used. Securely jump (or connect) the RED and Blue wire pins first... then plug your battery in to test.

 

[AngryBob]

I want to highlight, emphasize, and point at something while jumping up and down and screaming.

"Looking at the specs online for my old battery it says 48v". No, NO, no no no. You do not have a problem with an imaginary picture on the internet. You have a problem with the ebike sitting in front of you. The specs of the imaginary picture DO NOT MATTER A DAMN. The specs of the actual ebike currently in your possession are important.

MOST ESPECIALLY when it comes it at least two different configurations, and one of those IS within spec for the particular item in question, and the other, at least possibly, IS NOT.

The VERY FIRST STEP in solving any problem is getting ACCURATE, CORRECT information about the system in question, meaning the exact one, not something that just happens to look similar.

Yes, I actually jumped and down while loudly proclaiming my exasperated astonishment at the quoted statement.

Similar to the cable issue, do not GUESS, expend significant effort to MAKE CERTAIN. Following this methodology will avoid a lot of unnecessary hassle, wasted time and effort, and often significant cash.

 

[meisel]

Sry for noob question, but what does jumping the cable mean in this context? Should i connect the red and blue pins/cable at the display connector and then measure output to throttle?

Yes, AngryBob described it well!

Yes, "jumping" the two wires means to connect them. This should "hot-wire" the connection, essentially bypassing the display and turning the unit on. The throttle should then be active and apply power to the motor. The display will be non-functional, but the bike should run.

As the voltage will be high, care should be taken not to accidently short or allow the jumper wire ends to touch anything else.
That said, the current draw, or the amount of power running through the wire is low. So a relatively smaller wire or a single alligator clip connecting the two can be used. Securely jump (or connect) the RED and Blue wire pins first... then plug your battery in to test.

Thanks again! Im gonna get an alligator clip and test it out! Would the automatic pedal assistance work as well? Unfortunately the throttle has been malfunctioning since i got the bike (didnt use it much so didnt bother to fix it). Otherwise im guessing ill have to have a look at it aswell.

I want to highlight, emphasize, and point at something while jumping up and down and screaming.

"Looking at the specs online for my old battery it says 48v". No, NO, no no no. You do not have a problem with an imaginary picture on the internet. You have a problem with the ebike sitting in front of you. The specs of the imaginary picture DO NOT MATTER A DAMN. The specs of the actual ebike currently in your possession are important.

MOST ESPECIALLY when it comes it at least two different configurations, and one of those IS within spec for the particular item in question, and the other, at least possibly, IS NOT.

The VERY FIRST STEP in solving any problem is getting ACCURATE, CORRECT information about the system in question, meaning the exact one, not something that just happens to look similar.

Yes, I actually jumped and down while loudly proclaiming my exasperated astonishment at the quoted statement.

Similar to the cable issue, do not GUESS, expend significant effort to MAKE CERTAIN. Following this methodology will avoid a lot of unnecessary hassle, wasted time and effort, and often significant cash.

Thank you for being thorough! So I've checked to old battery charger and it says output 54,6v. So it should be 48v right? I've done my best to follow the cable as well and it unfortunately it is impossible to follow it all the way inside the frame, and pulling on it doesn't do much due to it being "grouped" with other wires inside the frame so everything moves at once. But based on the size of the cable it is the only one that is similar to the display cable.

Testing with the old battery is impossible as it was the part that got stolen.

 

[TommyCat]

Would the automatic pedal assistance work as well?

As long as the controller starts putting out the regulated 5vdc power, I would think so.

Unfortunately the throttle has been malfunctioning since i got the bike (didnt use it much so didnt bother to fix it). Otherwise im guessing ill have to have a look at it aswell.

For detailed information on hall sensor throttle operations, what to look for and how to repair... look here.
https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...r-throttle-operation-testing-and-modification

So I've checked to old battery charger and it says output 54,6v. So it should be 48v right?

48 volts nominal is correct.

Testing with the old battery is impossible as it was the part that got stolen.

Keeping your current battery voltage (52volts nominal, 58.8 volts fully charged) below 54.6vdc while testing will eliminate a higher voltage battery as the problem. IE: get it working first, then charge fully to see if the controller bugs out or stops working.

I've done my best to follow the cable as well and it unfortunately it is impossible to follow it all the way inside the frame, and pulling on it doesn't do much due to it being "grouped" with other wires inside the frame so everything moves at once. But based on the size of the cable it is the only one that is similar to the display cable.

This is why testing by resistance or continuity with battery disconnected and one end of the wire disconnected is a valuable skill to acquire and use. But if you get the same voltage readings at the round display HIGO connector as you do at the connection to the controller, odds are you have it.

 

[AngryBob]

Well, a "48V" battery could be 12S, or 50.4V, OR it could be 13S, or 54.6V, OR it could be 14S, or 58.8V. You started with a 13S battery and replaced it with a 14S. Various components in the system are limited in how much voltage they can handle, and often fail to function, usually permanently, when given a higher voltage. Tolerances are not usually this tight, but it is certainly possible.

At this point, you seem to have eliminated all possibilities other than a dead display, which could have resulted from the rough treatment during the theft, or from the excess voltage, or just pure bad luck and coincidence.

Best procedure is to perform the display bypass by jumping the connector as described. This would determine if you have a functional unit other than the display, simply and easily, with no expense.

Also, one important note - when you have a questionable system, non-functional, and there is a component which has BEEN MALFUNCTIONING SINCE DAY ONE, !-F I R S T-!, include that information in your very first post, and then, if EITHER that component is not required for basic testing functionality, such as getting the display to light up, or you have an equivalent replacement, such as a pedal sensor, then REMOVE THE MALFUNCTIONING COMPONENT FROM THE SYSTEM. While it is not very likely the throttle is the source of the current issue, if it is completely disconnected, then it cannot possibly be the cause of the problem. This represents a 5-second operation to possibly prevent hours of troubleshooting tail-chasing.

If it was in front of me right now I would remove the flaky throttle immediately. I would use an axe.

 

[meisel]

Would the automatic pedal assistance work as well?

As long as the controller starts putting out the regulated 5vdc power, I would think so.

Unfortunately the throttle has been malfunctioning since i got the bike (didnt use it much so didnt bother to fix it). Otherwise im guessing ill have to have a look at it aswell.

For detailed information on hall sensor throttle operations, what to look for and how to repair... look here.
https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...r-throttle-operation-testing-and-modification

So I've checked to old battery charger and it says output 54,6v. So it should be 48v right?

48 volts nominal is correct.

Testing with the old battery is impossible as it was the part that got stolen.

Keeping your current battery voltage (52volts nominal, 58.8 volts fully charged) below 54.6vdc while testing will eliminate a higher voltage battery as the problem. IE: get it working first, then charge fully to see if the controller bugs out or stops working.

I've done my best to follow the cable as well and it unfortunately it is impossible to follow it all the way inside the frame, and pulling on it doesn't do much due to it being "grouped" with other wires inside the frame so everything moves at once. But based on the size of the cable it is the only one that is similar to the display cable.

This is why testing by resistance or continuity with battery disconnected and one end of the wire disconnected is a valuable skill to acquire and use. But if you get the same voltage readings at the round display HIGO connector as you do at the connection to the controller, odds are you have it.

Well, a "48V" battery could be 12S, or 50.4V, OR it could be 13S, or 54.6V, OR it could be 14S, or 58.8V. You started with a 13S battery and replaced it with a 14S. Various components in the system are limited in how much voltage they can handle, and often fail to function, usually permanently, when given a higher voltage. Tolerances are not usually this tight, but it is certainly possible.

At this point, you seem to have eliminated all possibilities other than a dead display, which could have resulted from the rough treatment during the theft, or from the excess voltage, or just pure bad luck and coincidence.

Best procedure is to perform the display bypass by jumping the connector as described. This would determine if you have a functional unit other than the display, simply and easily, with no expense.

Also, one important note - when you have a questionable system, non-functional, and there is a component which has BEEN MALFUNCTIONING SINCE DAY ONE, !-F I R S T-!, include that information in your very first post, and then, if EITHER that component is not required for basic testing functionality, such as getting the display to light up, or you have an equivalent replacement, such as a pedal sensor, then REMOVE THE MALFUNCTIONING COMPONENT FROM THE SYSTEM. While it is not very likely the throttle is the source of the current issue, if it is completely disconnected, then it cannot possibly be the cause of the problem. This represents a 5-second operation to possibly prevent hours of troubleshooting tail-chasing.

If it was in front of me right now I would remove the flaky throttle immediately. I would use an axe.

Been working a lot lately and havent had time to continue on the bike but next week i will go through your suggestions here and continue my troubleshoot! Thanks again guys!

 

[Balmorhea]

[...]If it was in front of me right now I would remove the flaky throttle immediately. I would use an axe.

Been working a lot lately and havent had time to continue on the bike but next week i will go through your suggestions here and continue my troubleshoot!

Chop chop!

 

[TommyCat]

Some King-Meter information from Cory...

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=108063

 

[meisel]

So i went and bought an alligator clip. Unfortunately attaching it to the pins in a satisfactory way is as far as i can tell impossible, the connector is only about 0.5cm wide and the pins is only a few millimeters between, the only clip i could find that would be able to withstand the power needs atleast 1 cubic centimeter to attach properly. So i guess (i always end up here ) i need to cut the cables to hotwire it?

Im considering just outright buying a new controller and display, hoping that it will fix it. How is compatibility between different brands and products in these fields? Other then that they should be compatible with the voltage is there anything else i should look for to make sure it fits? Do they all use the same connecters and can connect to my battery and motor? Is there any amp requirements that i need to make sure it can handle? Any brands or products thats considered higher/low quality that i should be aware of?

 

[AngryBob]

Note the size of the wire in the connector. It is carrying only 5V. Get similar piece of wire, anywhere. Slightly larger is OK. Strip two ends. Bend into a "U" shape. Use to connect the two pins.
Do this with bike upside down. Hold wire in place. Test throttle. Only needed for seconds.

If you order the display and controller from the same place, as a set, there are decent odds they will work together. Read that quote I posted from the manual as many times as is necessary. Order them seperately and its a crap shoot.

Connectors will vary. Compatibility with your particular motor and battery will vary. This needs to be thoroughly checked and investigated. A much higher degree of effort and diligence must be expended, compared to, say, when you chose your battery.