Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

[tomjasz]

Got one arriving from EMPowered soon.

A good choice.

As an aside, I made one from cheap TTL cables from eBay and the first extension cables I bought and sold in a group buy. They both were short. Making a rather short working cable for programming. It worked with XP, but W7 was inconsistent. Why that is the case I don't know, not being a Windoze expert. Kepler had mentioned using a Grin TTL. I made my second one with a Grin Cable. $22 and it's 4' long and a later version extension cable 3.5'. I find the home built extra long programming cable much more convenient. A niggling detail but the longer cable is more convenient to use. At least for me. A plus on the Grin TTL is the quality and the fact that it works with all Windoze versions and OS X. Without fail.

 

[bgt]

When trying to connect your Bafang software to the BBS01/2 of your bike in Windows 10 put the compability mode to Windows 8 and start in administrator mode, both selectable in properties of the exe file of the controller software. It will show the right comport if you this.

 

[xrpb11a]

Beautiful! 3-7 days to deliver, ships out within 20 business days!! So 5 weeks max to deliver...

toUnited States via Fedex IE
Delivery: 3-7 days (ships out within 20 business days)

Check this out. Ready to use programming cable for the Bafang BBS: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/8fun-bafang-center-motor-middle-drive-motor-kit-reprogram-cable/904105_1998539445.html

Pricey though.

 

[tomjasz]

Beautiful! 3-7 days to deliver, ships out within 20 business days!! So 5 weeks max to deliver...

toUnited States via Fedex IE
Delivery: 3-7 days (ships out within 20 business days)

Check this out. Ready to use programming cable for the Bafang BBS: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/8fun-bafang-center-motor-middle-drive-motor-kit-reprogram-cable/904105_1998539445.html

Pricey though.

For $50 you can get a 6' TTL from Grin and a 42" extention cable from any BBS reseller. Make you own and I guarantee it'll be nicer and LONGER than any you can buy. I like having a 6-8' cable to program. My first was with an early extension cable and an eBay TTL cable. It is about 3' long and kind of a PIA in my work area having no work surface close to my bike stand to setup the computer. With a long cable my laptop is on the bench 4 feet from the bike with plenty of slack. But I'm a clutz and like my computer on a secure surface. If that makes sense to you.

 

[NeilP]

I have a selection of USB-TTl adapters...at least 4
3x Xie Chang style EB2xx
and a grin CA TTL USB lead

Seems to be the Grin lead is a suitable adapter for the programming.
Can tell someone tell me the pinout of the cable..I don't have it with me here, but believe it is a 'stereo' cable..so it has a tip, a ring and sleeve.


What is the pinout please...
Also I assume that as per standard, the TX from the TTL adapter goes to the Rx of the controller, but which is which on the green plug. This picture I have seen below, is a bit odd in that it if you imagine it plugging together it is 'wrong' See what I mean

 

[NeilP]

any one know if these plugs/ sockets are available on RS Export etc? I'd make use of them on my own bikes if I could get a stock of them.
Manufacturer name? type?

 

[tomjasz]

any one know if these plugs/ sockets are available on RS Export etc? I'd make use of them on my own bikes if I could get a stock of them.
Manufacturer name? type?

Pretty much unobtanium at reasonable prices. Higo has a vendor in the EU. With transfer fees and bank fees the prices were outrageous. Here's another source. https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/shop-overview/search?keyword=higo&limitstart=0&option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=0

 

[tomjasz]

I have a selection of USB-TTl adapters...at least 4
3x Xie Chang style EB2xx
and a grin CA TTL USB lead

Seems to be the Grin lead is a suitable adapter for the programming.
Can tell someone tell me the pinout of the cable..I don't have it with me here, but believe it is a 'stereo' cable..so it has a tip, a ring and sleeve.


What is the pinout please...
Also I assume that as per standard, the TX from the TTL adapter goes to the Rx of the controller, but which is which on the green plug. This picture I have seen below, is a bit odd in that it if you imagine it plugging together it is 'wrong' See what I mean


View attachment 2

Looks absolutely correct to me. It's a photo I had saved and used for reference.

 

[NeilP]

Looks absolutely correct to me. It's a photo I had saved and used for reference.

No, think about it. you are looking at the matching pair. The controller plug and the display plug. For the controller to talk to the display, the Rx needs to connect to the Tx

As the picture is shown, the Tx of the display is connecting to the Tx of the controller and the Rx of the Display to the Rx of the controller. Either the controller plug or the display plug has the Tx and Rx transposed

 

[tomjasz]

Works as shown on all three of mine. See the photo I shared as well.

 

[NeilP]

Umm you are both missing the point I am making.

If the the picture showing the half of the connector that is connected to the controller, is correct, then the labels of the pins on the display cable need to be swapped. The Controller pin, Tx, will need to connect to the Rx Pin on the display, or on the TTL adapter,

if you connect Tx to TX, as the picture shows, the devices will not talk to each other as they will be both be transmitting on the same line and both listening on the same line.

 

[NeilP]

If you go back to page one of this thread, the very first post..you will see it mentioned that you need to connect Tx to Rx, it is just basic communications, the transmitted signal from one device has to connect to the Receiver port on the other device.

 

[Tom L]

The photo is correct.
There are two devices in a serial communications setup. The DTE (computer), and DCE (device you are talking to).

The TX line is an input for DCE and an output for DTE.
The RX line is an output for DCE and an input for DTE.

The only time you connect the TX and RX lines together is when making a crossover cable so that two DTEs can talk together.

In this case the Display is a DCE and the Controller is DTE (shown corectly in the photo).

Your laptop is a DTE and the controller is a DTE, so you will need a crossover (null-modem) cable to reprogram the controller. Not shown in the photo.

 

[NeilP]

Hell , that is seriously screwed !
Thanks for the consise info.

Labelling some devices with the word Transmiiter (Tx) , yet having that port actually Act as a receiver (Rx) port.

Pretty sure Xlyte don't adhere to that with rhe XieChang boards and their APM. I'll have to go back and check.

So therefore if you just pick up a device with a serial header on a bosrd, there is no way to tell if the port Pin labelled Transmitter is actually acting as a Tx'r or Rx'r. Ummm someone frocked up when writing that protocol. Please let us all pray they don't write a nee standsrd for battery polarity !

 

[Tom L]

It was the way the RS232 Standard was written in 1969. Initially it was only meant to describe computer terminals wired to modems. Things have evolved a bit since then and yes it can be confusing unless you have some inkling of what sort of device you are dealing with.

DTE (Data Terminal Equipment) is generally something that controls other equipment like a computer or microprocessor. The signal lines are labelled intuitively for this equipment.

While DCE (Data Communication Equipment) where the connections are labelled un-intuitively are more passive devices that are controlled, like a modem, display or sensor.

In a similar way the modern USB standard relies heavily on knowing if a piece of equipment has a "host" or a "device" or an "on-the-go" port (can be either host or device). Here though it's about which device controls when the D+ and D- balanced data line pair act as inputs or outputs.

 

[Tom L]

As for the XieChang boards, I'm not familiar with them but if the serial port is only ever used to program the device it would be sensible to configure it as a DCE (TX in, RX out). That way a straight through cable would be used to connect it to a computer for programming. If however the serial port is used to control other things the designer would be wise to set it up as a DTE port and use a null modem cable for programming.

One way to tell if a device is a DCE or DTE - if the designer followed the standard - and if it uses DB9 connectors is:

DCE should be a Female DB9.
DTE should be a Male DB9.

A cable with a male and female DB9 is a straight through cable.
A cable with two female DB9 connectors is a null modem cable.

Or should be. Some designers don't follow the standard.

 

[tomjasz]

Luna does it again! Programming cable for $20!

Best seller around, ships first class for $5!!

 

[opperpanter]

When trying to connect your Bafang software to the BBS01/2 of your bike in Windows 10 put the compability mode to Windows 8 and start in administrator mode, both selectable in properties of the exe file of the controller software. It will show the right comport if you this.

This worked for me, but I had to install a customized driver. The official driver in Windows 10 or from the Prolific download site doesn't work for me (I probably own a counterfeited version?).

More info: http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.html
Download 64bit: http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/Drivers/PL2303Installer/PL2303_64bit_Installer.exe
Download 32bit: http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/Drivers/PL-2303_Driver_Installer.exe

 

[tommie]

Or Matt at Empowered where i got mine

http://www.empoweredcycles.com/collections/8fun-bafang-bbs02-accessories/products/usb-programming-cable-8fun-bbs02-mid-drive-motor

 

[tomjasz]

I still prefer making one. I really like the long lead to my computer, securely on the bench 4' away from the bike stand. It's just easier that way. The Grin TTL is over a meter long, and my Bafang cable is also more than a meter long. I think mine comes in at near 7'.

 

[opperpanter]

I still prefer making one. I really like the long lead to my computer, securely on the bench 4' away from the bike stand. It's just easier that way. The Grin TTL is over a meter long, and my Bafang cable is also more than a meter long. I think mine comes in at near 7'.

You can also use a USB extension cable if you have a short(er) programming cable.

 

[alexis57]

Hi guys !
I really dislike the PAS and I would like to remove the display by using a small wire in order to short PL and P+.
For now, when I turned on, the level 1 is set by default.(means with PAS)
How to program the bbs02 in order to set the level0 (without PAS, only throttle)
Thank you !

 

[kfranchoo]

Hi,
Installed the Bafang BBS02 as of yesterday.

Just to let you know I also had issues to configure the USB cable on Windows 10. I followed the following instructions in youtube to fix the Prolific driver issue. Windows recognized the COM port afterwards.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OgALMurWMA . Afterwards i changed all the parameters as per the instructions in electric-fatbike.com.
The cable is sold in this onlineshop http://www.alcedoitalia.it/ (dealer in Italy), as there are no dealers in Spain for this cable.

I enabled the Throttle in PAS0 with the configurations from Em3Ev (Start voltage 11, End Voltage 35, Mode Current,Designated Assist 9, Speed Limit by DIsplays Command, Start current % 10.
I did a 60 km trip without the throttle active and another with the throttle active and I must say I have no headache anymore of trying to get my speed right!
I changed the low voltage cut off to 43V as I use 12S Multistar Lipo's without BMS, even though I only ever drain them til 44v. I use a wattmeter to check the current voltage level.

I installed the 750W kit on a Specialized Sirrus, and installed the gearsensor that didn't come included in the package. This is also a must have in my case if you don't want a headache having to think to kill the motor with the brake or button to switch gears. The gearsensor is also sold via the same dealer in Italy. With the settings from Lectric Cycles every gearchange is smooth and the engine stays off until the gear has completely changed.
For the past year I used to have a 350W rear mxus engine, that ran with my same 48V Multistar LIpo (8Ah). With that hub motor i could really only do 30-35 with the throttle. With the bafang i did 45km with the lipo. It must be more efficient as it's direct drive?

I have another battery pack in the making, based on em3ev creations. I've ordered 85 25-r samsung cells (2.5Ah each) to create 14.7 14S triangle battery pack. I've bought the bms and 3Ah charger in Aliexpress (both for 44 euro)
Hopefully in the next month I will give you an update on this. For now the Lipo's will have to do. I'm attaching some pictures from the current setup. love the gearsensor. Location is just right.

I'm also open for suggestions as to improvements on the bike. I've ordered energized plus schwalbe 1.5 inch tyres. They're 38C, and supposed to fit.. also pending to buy a thudbuster LT.

buy buy buy...

 

[tomjasz]

Hi,
Installed the Bafang BBS02 as of yesterday.

Nice bike and battery setup and future design. Great insights, thanks for the pictures!

 

[kfranchoo]

The 85 Samsung 25R 2500mah have arrived and have subcontracted the soldering! Fotos of the progress..

The case that will be used for mounting it on the frame.
Used to come with 78 cells but were able to squeeze 85 of em in there:
View attachment 1



Soldering in the case:
View attachment 4

Glueing:
View attachment 3

More or less how it will be stacked in the case:
View attachment 2