Qulbix Raptor 140

I had thought of that fork from Greyborg as the dual disk break looked tempting. I was worried about flex. If you are using high end 4 piston breaks and 203mm rotors front and back would I really notice significant difference in feet to complete stop?
 
Rodney64 said:
Hello, in the past I have tried to put together a thread regarding builds.
Happy to keep posting but do I need to start my own thread.'id rather use this one.

I know Jesset had mentioned to start your own thread, but unless you want to combine your phasor builds, with your home commuter builds, with your raptor builds, I say post it here if its Raptor specific. My take is that this is what the Raptor 140mm frame thread was started for. Kind like what your Phasor thread turned into, you initially started that thread, then changed the title of the thread, and now everyone Phasor goes on it. Just my opinion.


Rick
 
I had thought of that fork from Greyborg as the dual disk break looked tempting.

You don't need to worry. Zombiess has been out of that fork for a while. Snellemin likes his. If they come back in stock soon, I'll snag one. If not I'll go for a fox dh. Those are more $$$ though and sooner or later my wife will draw the line.
 
The newer forks were 200mm travel, whereas my older fork is 180mm. It's a smooth fork and works both on and off road. I'm not a big jumper, so didn't see the need to spend over a grand on a fork.
 
Yeah I dig the DNM forks and have been recommending them to everyone who is looking to build up raptors. Other than Rod I know of 2 others currently building raptors with them too.
As for the dual disc, I reckon it's a big of a gimmick and if you buy one decent set of higher end brakes they're sufficient.

Re: creating another thread it probably doesnt matter too much either way. I have my own build thread where I've posted about all my different builds over the years (it's getting a little lengthy these days!!) and tend to use it to discuss all and sundry about what I'm doing, but I also cross post condensed relevant bits to other threads too (such as here, the stealth thread etc) especially if it's stuff other owners could benefit from.

Given you've got and had a few ebikes Rod (and this probably won't be your last) it's probably worth having your own thread just to document the journey. I know a number have people have commented to me that they've enjoyed reading my thread from the first post and seeing how I started out with relative crap and progressed onto better and better stuff.
 
Offroader said:
Hyena, may I ask why you recommend the DNM forks for the raptor?

I asked him that in the past, it was bang for the buck and the forks work really well for the price point. Down under, they can get these forks for 400 AUD or about 389 USD. We can't touch anything worth a crap new at that price point here.
 
Rodney64 said:
My builds coming along nicely but will slow do now. I need to put a 4065 into this 17 inch rim and also fit a new tyre as well.


Hi Rodney, I got most of my stuff ready for my build my rappy! frame should land next week.. Decided not to go schlumpf because of cost & don't fancy bending a crank arm etc.. So I was thinking of a zee set and a 44 tooth renthal ring. Then I just spotted yours, How many teeth have you squeezed in??

uick edit .. I think from the pic It's 50?

Cheers

Jon
 
Jonboy said:
Rodney64 said:
My builds coming along nicely but will slow do now. I need to put a 4065 into this 17 inch rim and also fit a new tyre as well.


Hi Rodney, I got most of my stuff ready for my build my rappy! frame should land next week.. Decided not to go schlumpf because of cost & don't fancy bending a crank arm etc.. So I was thinking of a zee set and a 44 tooth renthal ring. Then I just spotted yours, How many teeth have you squeezed in??

uick edit .. I think from the pic It's 50?

Cheers

Jon


It's a 48 tooth Jon. I have a build thread now so have a look as I'm posting up photos as I go. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63037#p942375 You will need to get the zee crank with the 36 tooth and then buy the 48 tooth seperate. It may fit a 50 tooth if the shock is mounted higher. My rear shock is 240mm. Looking forward to your build Jon.
 
Architectonic said:
I notice many are choosing the 19" moto wheel, is this really necessary and is it worth the extra weight (and cost)?

I'll be the first to jump in and say no. It depends on the hub you intend to use, and your riding style.
 
Yeah basically if you're not getting pinch flats constantly and destroying rims now then don't worry about it and stick with good double wall bicycle rims. If you dont come from a dirt bike or motorcycle background in general you'd probably be none the wiser if you never tried it but there is an additional benefit to handling if you're riding hard.

Offroader, re the forks, as Rix said they're pretty unbeatable for the price point, they perform well and they look cool too (IMO). They're a little heavier than brand name MTB forks that could cost up to 5x the price but hey we're not talking about strapping these on 10kg carbon mountain bikes.
 
Architectonic said:
I notice many are choosing the 19" moto wheel, is this really necessary and is it worth the extra weight (and cost)?

My take on it is that it is well worth it on the rear unless you're really babying the bike and only driving on very smooth roads. I can drive my bike without worry of a pinch flat, something you can't do with a bicycle tire on the rear.

If you do any kind of off-roading, hitting anything hard at speed, you will pinch flat a bicycle tire very easily. The heavier the bike the worse it becomes in the rear, I remember getting pinch flats from going over curbs pretty slowly with high PSI.

You don't need a motorcycle tire on the front and it is not worth the weight increase.
 
Rodney I was curious, why did you go 17 Moto Wheel in front? Was it something you already had?
 
What sort of rear spring set ups do you guys recommend and what are the differences in specs if you run 19" moto vs 26" rim?

Also, I noticed that Mark Sedhom and others were planning on running 5 speed freewheels with the cromotor, I'm wondering how that is working out?
 
i rode about 6000km with normal DH Rim and MTB Tires....did not had any Problem.
on my Raptor it worked also for a few hundres kilometers. After i switched to Sabvoton Controller and used it with 100a of Regen Power ( up to 4,5KW on a Switch)
my Spokes brokes. Same Power all the Time....So if you dont want to use really Hard and High eBrakes, Normal DH Rim will be okay. Even for Offroad and some Small Jumps.

I know the Disc Brake uses the same direction and force to stop the wheel. But a Regen Switch Cuts in less 0,1 Second. Thats what i think kills the spokes.
Means theres no time to start "flexing" for the spoke.

But theres another thing what you have to think about bicycle tires.
When your on a Cro and pushing +5KW, your tire will be finish after a few hundred kilometers. To be honest; After 500km a Offroad MTB Tire has to be replaced.
I was pissed of that and put another 300km on it and burnded it down after that.

a motorcycle Tyre last 3-4 times longer and if you flat that Monster you can Probably drive home on walking speed without killing your rim.
Think About a Flatted Tyre and your 20-30km far away from home with that 50-60Kg Monster.....
 
ecruz said:
Rodney I was curious, why did you go 17 Moto Wheel in front? Was it something you already had?

Ecruz yes it was something that I already had (17 Moto front). But I do also have a 24 inch bicycle wheel as well. Maybe 18inch on the front but 19 would look too big I think. Current set ups good for my height. (5-9).
 
Merlin said:
i rode about 6000km with normal DH Rim and MTB Tires....did not had any Problem.
on my Raptor it worked also for a few hundres kilometers. After i switched to Sabvoton Controller and used it with 100a of Regen Power ( up to 4,5KW on a Switch)
my Spokes brokes. Same Power all the Time....So if you dont want to use really Hard and High eBrakes, Normal DH Rim will be okay. Even for Offroad and some Small Jumps.

I know the Disc Brake uses the same direction and force to stop the wheel. But a Regen Switch Cuts in less 0,1 Second. Thats what i think kills the spokes.
Means theres no time to start "flexing" for the spoke.

But theres another thing what you have to think about bicycle tires.
When your on a Cro and pushing +5KW, your tire will be finish after a few hundred kilometers. To be honest; After 500km a Offroad MTB Tire has to be replaced.
I was pissed of that and put another 300km on it and burnded it down after that.

a motorcycle Tyre last 3-4 times longer and if you flat that Monster you can Probably drive home on walking speed without killing your rim.
Think About a Flatted Tyre and your 20-30km far away from home with that 50-60Kg Monster
.....

The truth Merlin
 
For those interested, Jeremy Wolf (Greyborg USA) is starting to get the parts back in for the Dual Disc DMN forks (custom version of the DNM USD-8 with disc bosses on each fork, as well as the needed dual disc hub). I already have my 2 Fox 40s installed but I am picking up a set to try later. Jeremy is also selling (not in stock yet) custom Tektro brakes for the dual disc setup that I'll be picking up for the future swap.

Reach out to him if you are interested: jwolf@dodecahedronsolutions.com

There is a list of people already interested but now is the time to get added if you really want one of the dual disk setups. Of course, I just want it for looks because I am a poser. ;)
 
Hey gents,

When you are looking at the spring chart on the Qulbix website, are you considering rider weight to really be only rider weight (with gear) or are you adding in the weight of batteries too?
 
Mammalian04 said:
Hey gents,

When you are looking at the spring chart on the Qulbix website, are you considering rider weight to really be only rider weight (with gear) or are you adding in the weight of batteries too?

That's a really good question and one I put a lot of thought into. I think you have to add the battery weight. It is extra weight for sure the spring has to handle.

What I figure is, those are based on downhill bikes which weigh about 50 lbs. Our bakes are 120-130lbs. We really need to add in the extra weights of our bike.

The other issue is motor weight, does this count, or should this be deduced from the total bike weight. Probably needs to be deducted as the spring doesn't deal with this weight.

It's not exact as when you land the bike weight is kind of different than your body weight as the bike hits first than your weight hits 2nd. This seems to matter more with jumping, and if you do jumps to flat ground you're going to need a stiffer spring.

That's why you should may have to experiment with a couple of springs. I find the recommendations offered by raptor bikes to be too low.

I'd like to hear others thoughts on this whole issue
 
I found that with the shock staying the same, different springs are needed for what your are planning to do with the bike. The spring list from Qulbix is just a starting point to consider.
 
snellemin said:
I found that with the shock staying the same, different springs are needed for what your are planning to do with the bike. The spring list from Qulbix is just a starting point to consider.

True, I like to jump to flat ground with the bike, well that's all you can really do in the city. Anyway, I'm always considering upping my springs. But if I up my springs, my bikes sag will be lowered a lot.

I think my fork spring needs to also be upgraded.
 
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