Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

[Offroader]

My reasoning for the Ti nitride coated chain was bling #1, although I thought it would be more blingy, the Ti nitride coating barely is any more noticeable than a silver chain.

The other reason was that it may some rust because I very rarely lube my chains as I almost never pedal.

 

[Chalo]

My reasoning for the Ti nitride coated chain was bling #1, although I thought it would be more blingy, the Ti nitride coating barely is any more noticeable than a silver chain.

The other reason was that it may some rust because I very rarely lube my chains as I almost never pedal.

Don't get me wrong-- titanium nitride is the real deal. It's a ceramic that's harder and slipperier than the surface of any structural metal, and a bicycle chain is a great place to use it. It just doesn't change the weight of the chain versus not having it.

 

[ecruz]

My reasoning for the Ti nitride coated chain was bling #1, although I thought it would be more blingy, the Ti nitride coating barely is any more noticeable than a silver chain.

The other reason was that it may some rust because I very rarely lube my chains as I almost never pedal.

Don't get me wrong-- titanium nitride is the real deal. It's a ceramic that's harder and slipperier than the surface of any structural metal, and a bicycle chain is a great place to use it. It just doesn't change the weight of the chain versus not having it.

My chain is not steel, in weight comparison to other chains I have is more than half the weight and yes it is nitride coated as TI is not gold. I am sure it is a TI mix of some kind it was expensive but it is not magnetic.

 

[ecruz]

Saw this today and thought to pass it on. As I wouldn't want any of us to loose our bikes after all this work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOKj8uZoNaA

Looks cool!

 

[ziltoid81]

Greetings from germany.

Im planning to build a commuter, funbike, offroader whatever to call it, out of an qulbix raptor 140 frame.

At the moment i ride my cannondale prophet with a 8fun BBS01 36V 18A middrive daily to work.

Im yery happy so far, but the wish for more power is getting louder......
I fell in love with the qulbix, so i know which frame to take.
Now im searching for the perfect motor.
In this thread i read about the good efficiency of the cro, so thats the most important thing to me.
Torque and consumption, topspeed of 60 to 65kmh will be enough. When everything else fits, also secure 55 will be ok.
On the greyborg site i found some simulation of max speed in certain wheeldiameters and consumption.
So i compared it with my middrive and got a little bit confused.
When i drive like 30kmh with no pedaling in flat condition, the middrive sucks 270-330watt direct out of the battery (i got a wattmeter mounted).
When i compare it with the cro, my middrive took half the consumption of the cro.
For exaple 36v on a 22" tire the cro needs 21A for 30kmh (found it on the greyborg site) which equals 756 watts, in the same situation my middrive needs 300.......
I also measured a trip of 14km without pedaling and got a consumption about 12-13wh/km.
In another thread i read about crystalyte owners (35xx, 40xx, 5x0x) who got 12 to 20wh/km.
Maybe i got an error in my thoughts, but cant see it.

For now i think it will be the H4065 for me, cause the cro simulations offer no advantage in therms of consumption.

 

[Rix]

Greetings from germany.

Im planning to build a commuter, funbike, offroader whatever to call it, out of an qulbix raptor 140 frame.

At the moment i ride my cannondale prophet with a 8fun BBS01 36V 18A middrive daily to work.

Im yery happy so far, but the wish for more power is getting louder......
I fell in love with the qulbix, so i know which frame to take.
Now im searching for the perfect motor.
In this thread i read about the good efficiency of the cro, so thats the most important thing to me.
Torque and consumption, topspeed of 60 to 65kmh will be enough. When everything else fits, also secure 55 will be ok.
On the greyborg site i found some simulation of max speed in certain wheeldiameters and consumption.
So i compared it with my middrive and got a little bit confused.
When i drive like 30kmh with no pedaling in flat condition, the middrive sucks 270-330watt direct out of the battery (i got a wattmeter mounted).
When i compare it with the cro, my middrive took half the consumption of the cro.
For exaple 36v on a 22" tire the cro needs 21A for 30kmh (found it on the greyborg site) which equals 756 watts, in the same situation my middrive needs 300.......
I also measured a trip of 14km without pedaling and got a consumption about 12-13wh/km.
In another thread i read about crystalyte owners (35xx, 40xx, 5x0x) who got 12 to 20wh/km.
Maybe i got an error in my thoughts, but cant see it.

For now i think it will be the H4065 for me, cause the cro simulations offer no advantage in therms of consumption.

Hello Ziltoid, just wanted to shed some light on the whole direct drive wattage consumption. I have a custom Fighter with a 4080 on it. At 30KPH or about 18MPH, I am consuming around 300wh, its up and down but that would be the average. With no wind and flat level road at 15MPH or about 27-28KPH, I am consuming between 150-200 wh. My bike weighs 83 pounds, 38kg and I weigh 118kg with riding gear and camel back. Hope this helps.

 

[snellemin]

My cromotor consumes between 300-500w @ 21mph with no assist with the 26" bike wheel setup. Bike is over 100lbs and I'm 185lbs.

 

[bikerloosey]

This picture really says all...The frames on these are really looking sinister...Plus the chunky vboxx things is gone.

Does my raptor look like a dirt bike yet?

I rammed my hand into a tree trying hopping a log and it hurt like hell. The next day I caught my finger when my handlebar went over a wooden railing of a tiny wooden bridge and wedged my finger between the railing and the handlebar, this really hurt and tore the skin right off. So I decided to put my handguards back on which I used last winter to help with the cold.

I'm always riding through very narrow paths in the woods so I figure it is a good safety measure. It does add confidence when riding.

I notice for some reason when I have the handguards on people start really thinking dirtbike. I didn't make it more than a mile from my house and someone yelled from the sidewalk "hey, is that a dirtbike".

 

[marcn]

My cromotor consumes between 300-500w @ 21mph with no assist with the 26" bike wheel setup. Bike is over 100lbs and I'm 185lbs.

Wow that's really good. Do you know what the temps are like at that speed? This is likely our cruise speed over a few hours. I'm expecting temperature to climb bit but interested to see where it plateaus.

 

[snellemin]

I don't bother with temps at that speed or power. I start looking when I'm pushing 5000W. My controller is inside the bike with a thermistor on the case. Temps are a bit over ambient,
Today I was cruising between 30-43mph on my 6 mile commute. Motor wasn't hot at all. My Magic Pie gets way warmer at that same speed.

 

[marcn]

And you're running much higher amperage and voltage than Offloader who mentions his temps are quite high.

Anyhow, can't wait to find out for myself

 

[snellemin]

Yes I do, but I my commute is mostly flat. My high controller settings are mostly used for acceleration and at max cruising speed I'm pulling an average of 5kw.

 

[marcn]

For those running non-crystalyte controllers and mounting it externally, what are you doing about the misaligned mounting holes? Using a bracket for the bottom hole? infineon based controllers are are tad short or a tad long depending on what hole you want to use.

Might need to visit the hardware store tomorrow.

 

[Merlin]

drilled new holes.
from inside "countersinking" <- do not know if it is the right word.

with this screws:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/10x-Stahl-Senkschraube-Inbus-M6-x-8-10-12-14-16-18-20-mm-DIN7991-10-9-schwarz-/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/$T2eC16R,!yUE9s6NFHziBQj-GC3T7Q~~60_12.JPG

over the screws a 3mm foam rubber "plate"...

 

[Offroader]

Merlin, why did you drill the holes from the inside, and why countersink?

Or do you mean you tapped (threaded) the hole for a screw to fit through.

My controller didn't line up and I screwed it only on one side and actually never got around to fixing this. I have to tap out the other screw hole and to do it properly I want to use the same exact screw type as the other side.

In the meantime I just put foam under the controller to press fit it under the controller protector.

 

[Offroader]

Decided to make a video today riding over a medium sized log.

This is harder than it looks, and the log looks bigger in real life also. When the rear tire hits the log the front of the bike slams down hard. Look at the fork fully compress.

The rear tire also slams the log really hard as the bike is lifted, this is why I'm glad to have those 9/10 gauge spokes. I found spokes break very easily when the front of the bike is lifted quickly and the rear slams. Maybe because the suspension can't compress or leverage or something.

I'll do this like 20 times in a row, makes for good practice riding over anything large.

I know its not the biggest log in the world, but its a start, it's at least half way up on the front 26" tire.

[youtube]fKmLpTQoGFY[/youtube]

 

[marcn]

You tried a stiffer spring Offloader? Massive compression.

 

[Offroader]

You tried a stiffer spring Offloader? Massive compression.

I've been thinking about that. The spring compresses rather easy, but for the most part the suspension on the front feels perfect. Hitting most anything I can barely feel it. It's the really hard landings that compresses fully.

From videos it seems pretty normal for the fork to compress easily.

 

[litespeed]

I'd say the front looks perfect unless you planning some evil kineavil (sp?) jumps. Your shock looks too stiff to me. If they are lop sided then it will always try to throw your weight forward which could be bad in the right....er wrong situation!

Nice log skills!

Tom

 

[Rix]

You tried a stiffer spring Offloader? Massive compression.

I've been thinking about that. The spring compresses rather easy, but for the most part the suspension on the front feels perfect. Hitting most anything I can barely feel it. It's the really hard landings that compresses fully.

From videos it seems pretty normal for the fork to compress easily.

Looking at your rear suspension upon contact with the log, if this was motorcycle, I would say your are really close to the ideal settings for your body weight. Old school thinking is if you don't bottom your suspension at least once or twice on a good offroad ride, then its too stiff. And you are not bottoming at all on this log hit. In fact, if your rear suspension could be a little softer, if it was, it wouldn't be causing your front to dive as hard when the rear wheel contacts with the log. Not trying to thread jack the Raptor here with Fighter videos, but check out my vids. The top one opens up with 25-30 foot jump where you can see my suspension front and rear compressing equally up on landing. The second video has me flying through some rollers at 35MPH, you can see what the rear is doing there when I go by my camera. Note that I have the rebound 2 clicks from out from maximum slow in both vids on the rear. This still allow the rear to extend properly after compression from landing, but not so slow that its still compressed when I hit the next roller. Also, about 2/3 through the first vid, I have a down hill section of rocks, its only a few seconds, but you can see what the suspension is doing on the lava rock. In my opinion, these videos show what proper suspension for bike and rider weight should look like offroad for Ebikes with big hub motors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuSiBsL0nvU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1mVYResxnY

 

[Offroader]

When I used the 350 spring, I would bottom out a lot during the ride.

Now, when I use the 400 spring I only bottom out a few times, it will take a really hard hit or high drop. Trailing through the woods I won't bottom it out at all.

To me it does seem pretty stiff but if I go to the lower 350 spring than I bottom out all the time.

 

[Rix]

When I used the 350 spring, I would bottom out a lot during the ride.

Now, when I use the 400 spring I only bottom out a few times, it will take a really hard hit or high drop. Trailing through the woods I won't bottom it out at all.

To me it does seem pretty stiff but if I go to the lower 350 spring than I bottom out all the time.

When you went to the 400#, what did you do with your compression settings? Did you increase that as well?

 

[Offroader]

When I used the 350 spring, I would bottom out a lot during the ride.

Now, when I use the 400 spring I only bottom out a few times, it will take a really hard hit or high drop. Trailing through the woods I won't bottom it out at all.

To me it does seem pretty stiff but if I go to the lower 350 spring than I bottom out all the time.

When you went to the 400#, what did you do with your compression settings? Did you increase that as well?

Actually, all my settings are at the lowest right now. I lowered everything which includes bottom out control, low speed compression, high speed compression. I wanted to make the rear as soft as possible.

I should possibly see how often I bottom out now and when. I know that hard trail riding will not bottom my 400 shock. I would have to probably do a drop to flat ground for that to happen.

I really think that these bikes should be designed around dirt bike shocks instead of bicycle shocks. I just don't think they are made to deal with a 130lbs bike properly.

I'm also considering buying a cane creek double barrel used if I can get a deal on Ebay. Wouldn't hurt to have a spare shock and also maybe it works better with its dual rebound settings.

I'm spending a lot of money on this bike, just spent $450 yesterday for parts and batteries to convert my bike to 22s and redo the whole wiring system. I guess it depends on how you look at it because some guys can dump a lot of money into their cars, especially if buying a new car. At least that's how I help justify the spending. However, I do get my use out of the bike as I ride it almost daily for a couple hours a day.

 

[Rix]

[quoteI'm spending a lot of money on this bike, just spent $450 yesterday for parts and batteries to convert my bike to 22s and redo the whole wiring system. I guess it depends on how you look at it because some guys can dump a lot of money into their cars, especially if buying a new car. At least that's how I help justify the spending. However, I do get my use out of the bike as I ride it almost daily for a couple hours a day.][/quote]

Excellent justification. Between my Bomber and Fighter and all the stuff I have done to them over the years with batteries, forks, components, motors, rims, tires,rims and tires and tires, did I mention rims and tires? Still paying on all that with the credit card as I am not rich. Oh well, I can say its worth it though. I can say that anything you do to improve suspension transfers to improvement everywhere else, so better components equals better ride.

 

[Offroader]

Rix, what do you think about the air shocks? Like I could get a cane creek double barrel in coil or air.

Supposedly the high end air shocks are pretty good and came a long way. They may allow me to adjust the tension exactly how I want it.

I wonder if air would be better or worse dealing with our heavy rear. I wonder if it would be worth buying a used one on ebay to try it out and if it sucks just resell it with a small loss.