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LeftieBiker said:
Posting expired.
Click to expand...

Genesis 26" V2100 Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike, Slate Gray

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Genesis-26-V2100-Men-s-Dual-Suspension-Mountain-Bike-Slate-Gray/898724558

What do you guys think of this? At 174$ new
 
A $180 bicycle shaped object from waltons, not the best choice!
I'd be more inclined to buy a $180 used bicycle from the classifieds.
If you do decide to buy that BSO, you should look at every part and grease everything that needs greasing, use antiseize where applicable. Remember its a 18 year old stoner punk kid, getting paid minimum wage putting the bicycles together. The kid could care less if he forgot a bolt on the wheel. Hopefully you wont bottom out that rear suspension. Those bicycles are one size fits all.
 
MarkM1887 said:
LeftieBiker said:
Posting expired.
Click to expand...

Genesis 26" V2100 Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike, Slate Gray

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Genesis-26-V2100-Men-s-Dual-Suspension-Mountain-Bike-Slate-Gray/898724558

What do you guys think of this? At 174$ new
Click to expand...

Super CHEAP. It has a rear V-brake, which is like selling a car with rear scrubber brakes. Look for suspension components with brand names other than that of the bicycle.
 
markz said:
A $180 bicycle shaped object from waltons, not the best choice!
I'd be more inclined to buy a $180 used bicycle from the classifieds.
If you do decide to buy that BSO, you should look at every part and grease everything that needs greasing, use antiseize where applicable. Remember its a 18 year old stoner punk kid, getting paid minimum wage putting the bicycles together. The kid could care less if he forgot a bolt on the wheel. Hopefully you wont bottom out that rear suspension. Those bicycles are one size fits all.
Click to expand...

Ok you scared me off that one. My reasoning with getting a new one was at least I know I won't need to buy any additional parts for it immediately If I buy a used one what would be the biggest things to look for that could be bad on it when I go to look at one? How will I be able to tell if the front fork has been over worn or anything like that?

I'm supposed to be looking at mountain bikes exclusively correct?
 
Last Bike I got from Walmart was the XP Pro, only on line never in the store. I really like the bike but it is $500+ and don't know how it measures up to the rest. There is a following for this bike most swap out the front forks.
 
MarkM1887 said:
Ok you scared me off that one. My reasoning with getting a new one was at least I know I won't need to buy any additional parts for it immediately If I buy a used one what would be the biggest things to look for that could be bad on it when I go to look at one? How will I be able to tell if the front fork has been over worn or anything like that?

I'm supposed to be looking at mountain bikes exclusively correct?
Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wndVwx74LAg
 
MarkM1887 said:
I'm supposed to be looking at mountain bikes exclusively correct?
Click to expand...

If you still have the plan to go really fast, then you don't want to do that on an aluminum frame from some cheapie bike or cheap ebike. What you'd really want is either a good brand downhill bike or a bike made out of steel. Also, for extreme speeds you'll want dual suspension. Your roads would have to be near perfect for extreme speed on a hardtail with the short wheelbase and high CG of a bicycle.
 
John in CR said:
MarkM1887 said:
I'm supposed to be looking at mountain bikes exclusively correct?
Click to expand...

If you still have the plan to go really fast, then you don't want to do that on an aluminum frame from some cheapie bike or cheap ebike. What you'd really want is either a good brand downhill bike or a bike made out of steel. Also, for extreme speeds you'll want dual suspension. Your roads would have to be near perfect for extreme speed on a hardtail with the short wheelbase and high CG of a bicycle.
Click to expand...

I just want to get my first one built think. I can live with not being able to outrun the police on my bicycle. I need someone to tell me what to buy really. I think I could tolerate topping out at 30 I would like to have the option to go faster but I can always upgrade things along the way to go faster.
 
Either cheap out on the bike and buy components to convert to ebike, or save up and buy a good used bicycle to build upon. Just remember bicycles, especially cheap bicycles are not made for the stresses that ebikes induce.
 
MarkM1887 said:
John in CR said:
MarkM1887 said:
I'm supposed to be looking at mountain bikes exclusively correct?
Click to expand...

If you still have the plan to go really fast, then you don't want to do that on an aluminum frame from some cheapie bike or cheap ebike. What you'd really want is either a good brand downhill bike or a bike made out of steel. Also, for extreme speeds you'll want dual suspension. Your roads would have to be near perfect for extreme speed on a hardtail with the short wheelbase and high CG of a bicycle.
Click to expand...

I just want to get my first one built think. I can live with not being able to outrun the police on my bicycle. I need someone to tell me what to buy really. I think I could tolerate topping out at 30 I would like to have the option to go faster but I can always upgrade things along the way to go faster.
Click to expand...

My suggestions regarding a frame don't change, though I'll throw in another, an EEB ebike frame, as long as you're not looking for something to pedal a lot or use for more demanding off road than easy trail use. It's a strong bike with plenty of battery space, and the nice thing is the battery enclosure is all done for you along with a bargain price. I only use mine on the street with some poor roads and good highway, and even with the big 20kg motor with wheel on the rear and a 240lb rider it feels nice and stable even at a top speed of over 80mph.

Assuming street and light trail use forget the big wheels (and 26" is a big wheel for a hubmotor especially if you want fast). With dual suspension a 17" or 18" lightest weight lowester profile tire you can find, or 16-17" moped rims and tires, will ride good enough and not look as out of the norm as 20" bike wheels whose size is ideal for performance and speed with a hubmotor. Then you can get a MXUS 3k Turbo speed wind version, a 3 turn wind with a Kv of almost 12rpm/volt.

For voltage go for 22s, since you want speed, and it keeps you below the 95V top of charge voltage limit of a Nucular controller, which I'd suggest preordering a Nucular 24F now as they take months to get. You don't pay till it's ready, but something you'll want in your upgrade path and they're quite compact, so not a big brick to make room for even if you won't use it's full capability for a while. Buy yourself something cheaper to do for you for now.

To give you an idea of performance my son's bike has a 20s pack with an 18" moto wheel on that motor, and it will do over 55mph even with fat me aboard, and that's with no field weakening using a Nucular 12F set at 100A battery 200A phase limits. The combination I mentioned gives you a nice strong frame with plenty of room for batteries, and really good performance obtained easily by a first timer. Plus for upgrading it can handle a bigger more powerful motor with few other changes, and it's steel, so easily modified and doesn't look too much like a motorcycle.

Since you started off talking about high speed, the common result of the first ebike is that we always want more, so don't let anyone talk you into a slower wind motor...not even a 4 turn, because it will fall short and your only option is to go to higher voltage where controller selection becomes very limited and gets you nowhere you can't more easily get with the speedier wind motor at lower voltage.

One thing you haven't mentioned is terrain, mostly flat or quite hilly or mountainous. I live in a mountainous country and push big loads, which is far more difficult and make running the smallest diameter wheel you can live with mandatory to avoid heat problems and still get great performance.
 
John in CR said:
MarkM1887 said:
John in CR said:
MarkM1887 said:
I'm supposed to be looking at mountain bikes exclusively correct?
Click to expand...

If you still have the plan to go really fast, then you don't want to do that on an aluminum frame from some cheapie bike or cheap ebike. What you'd really want is either a good brand downhill bike or a bike made out of steel. Also, for extreme speeds you'll want dual suspension. Your roads would have to be near perfect for extreme speed on a hardtail with the short wheelbase and high CG of a bicycle.
Click to expand...

I just want to get my first one built think. I can live with not being able to outrun the police on my bicycle. I need someone to tell me what to buy really. I think I could tolerate topping out at 30 I would like to have the option to go faster but I can always upgrade things along the way to go faster.
Click to expand...

My suggestions regarding a frame don't change, though I'll throw in another, an EEB ebike frame, as long as you're not looking for something to pedal a lot or use for more demanding off road than easy trail use. It's a strong bike with plenty of battery space, and the nice thing is the battery enclosure is all done for you along with a bargain price. I only use mine on the street with some poor roads and good highway, and even with the big 20kg motor with wheel on the rear and a 240lb rider it feels nice and stable even at a top speed of over 80mph.

Assuming street and light trail use forget the big wheels (and 26" is a big wheel for a hubmotor especially if you want fast). With dual suspension a 17" or 18" lightest weight lowester profile tire you can find, or 16-17" moped rims and tires, will ride good enough and not look as out of the norm as 20" bike wheels whose size is ideal for performance and speed with a hubmotor. Then you can get a MXUS 3k Turbo speed wind version, a 3 turn wind with a Kv of almost 12rpm/volt.

For voltage go for 22s, since you want speed, and it keeps you below the 95V top of charge voltage limit of a Nucular controller, which I'd suggest preordering a Nucular 24F now as they take months to get. You don't pay till it's ready, but something you'll want in your upgrade path and they're quite compact, so not a big brick to make room for even if you won't use it's full capability for a while. Buy yourself something cheaper to do for you for now.

To give you an idea of performance my son's bike has a 20s pack with an 18" moto wheel on that motor, and it will do over 55mph even with fat me aboard, and that's with no field weakening using a Nucular 12F set at 100A battery 200A phase limits. The combination I mentioned gives you a nice strong frame with plenty of room for batteries, and really good performance obtained easily by a first timer. Plus for upgrading it can handle a bigger more powerful motor with few other changes, and it's steel, so easily modified and doesn't look too much like a motorcycle.

Since you started off talking about high speed, the common result of the first ebike is that we always want more, so don't let anyone talk you into a slower wind motor...not even a 4 turn, because it will fall short and your only option is to go to higher voltage where controller selection becomes very limited and gets you nowhere you can't more easily get with the speedier wind motor at lower voltage.

One thing you haven't mentioned is terrain, mostly flat or quite hilly or mountainous. I live in a mountainous country and push big loads, which is far more difficult and make running the smallest diameter wheel you can live with mandatory to avoid heat problems and still get great performance.
Click to expand...

Is this what your talking about?

https://electric-bikes.com/betterbikes/evelframe.html

That is quite expensive. 1k for the frame and front and rear suspension. And I would still have other things to buy just for the bike as well. I really don't want to pay that much for the bike.




It's a lot of highways there's some mountains that I would like to have the option to climb but that would be pleasure riding And I can avoid those if I have to.
 
I would just get a bike build with in your price range and then if you want to do a second build and spend more money go for it. Most want more than one build.
Get a dollar amount then start a list, most expensive to least, remember lots of small things add up to.

Battery
Bike
Motor
Controler
wheels, tires, spokes
controls
wires, tape, solider, connectors, fuses
etc ......
 
MarkM1887 said:
https://electric-bikes.com/betterbikes/evelframe.html

That is quite expensive. 1k for the frame and front and rear suspension.
Click to expand...

It is cheap stuff for a fast ebike. It will do on the street, but speeding the mountain trails does require a much better frame and suspension components.
 
MarkM1887 said:
Is this what your talking about?
https://electric-bikes.com/betterbikes/evelframe.html
That is quite expensive. 1k for the frame and front and rear suspension. And I would still have other things to buy just for the bike as well. I really don't want to pay that much for the bike.
It's a lot of highways there's some mountains that I would like to have the option to climb but that would be pleasure riding And I can avoid those if I have to.
Click to expand...

If the $1k includes rear shock and a fork, and you don't have to pay shipping from China, then like MadRhino said that's pretty cheap. $459 for the frame itself with the battery enclosure and paint already is also a good deal and a big time saving. Now if you're like me and a very homebuilt bike is no big deal, especially since it's less likely to get stolen, then you can buy something used and hack together your own ride based on a 2nd hand bike frame and save some money. It's going to take some shopping and a bit of luck and unless you go for some bottom of the barrel suspension items you're unlikely to save much. You could buy a $100 welding machine and some steel if you really want to save some $$$.
 
That is quite expensive. 1k for the frame and front and rear suspension. And I would still have other things to buy just for the bike as well. I really don't want to pay that much for the bike.
Click to expand...

We'd all rather pay $1k total for a bike that is fast and strong. I would also like to be 20 years younger. Maybe you should adjust your goals to better match reality.
 
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