Single Gear Stealth Build - Battery in Frame Tubes

I hope you are rounding off the outside of the holes you are drilling. It was pretty common for DIY auto aftermarket stereo installations to end in shorts, if not flames (where fuses had not been used) due to the rubbing of a cable against a metal edge. Usually a rubber grommet to protect the cable was the trick. But I see space is an issue. Perhaps a section of thick inner tube could be the go?

On that, I didn't see much discussion of fusing or breakers being discussed (perhaps I missed it).. but you might consider fusing your packs if you haven't already. Despite all the work you have done to prevent shorts (better scenario), it's a bit of a relief when a fast blowing fuse saves the bacon.

The FEA image you located also suggests the seatpost area is one experiencing high force. A shame it doesn't continue to model the actual seatpost itself as we are drilling holes in it... A seatpost failure could be pretty unpleasant/ damaging to your undercarriage!

Keeping cables shorter is generally a better idea... if you could get the controller further down on the bike, less cable = less resistance and points of failure. It's really like you need a smaller or at least thinner controller to sneak it along a frame tube... perhaps a drink bottle is the go? Raged did a pretty sweet job of some stealth lipo packs in fake drink bottles... rather than trying to hide it all within the frame, add something people expect to see on a bike. food for thought in any case.
 
LawrenceEaden said:
I stumbled across a deal on 18650s on gearbest for NCR18650B cells.


Those cells are suitable only for large battery packs. They are like 6 amps most. Not suitable for smaller packs. Your pack is only 2p I guess, so definitely not recommended


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Lurkin said:

Thanks for your comments Lurkin, I have gone back round with the dremil and a stone bit putting radiuses on the cable routes and deburred wherever possible, there's not really any room at all for an inner tube like you suggested.

The only fuse I have currently in an inline automotive fuse holder like below with a 10A fuse in.
870675


I am redesigning my pack slightly for the new cells that have arrived. It would be a good idea to add small 2A cartridge fuses inline to the balancing wires as well at the cell end incase of a short.

I went a bit wild with the drill on this seatpost because I know i'm replacing it. This one which came with the bike is setback, I'm going to swap it for an inline post moving the mounting point on the rails of the saddle further forward freeing up more space for the controller. I way that the aluminium piece is seated in the post though, and the direction of the forces I can't see it hugely compromising strength if i use a single hole in the middle.

Slightly longer cables is just going to be a compromise of this build. I've test assembled the bike a fews now and I think the payoff is much better without a bottle component.
31723122951_fb68ee91c0_c.jpg


I wanted to get a few parts 3d printed I have designed including, battery support clips, the controller hard case, and a stem battery indicator. The price came back a little too high when compared to getting my own. I saw a deal on Gearbest for the Anet A8 printer (£140)
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html
20160318170432_94967.jpg

It'll take a while to arrive, but after researching how to smooth abs prints with acetone vapour I was convinced that I could create visually, production representative components for the stealth OEM look.

Also preparing for the case I checked that the FETs could be tapped to secure to the heatsink.
31839279915_690e992605_c.jpg

M4x0.7 Success.

Only a little more wiring to do before i can give it a little test ride.

Yes, so 2C of these cells is 6.6A
10s2p pack = 13.2A Max Output
250W/36V = 6.9Amps
Is there and issue with this?
 
Running those cells at peak discharge will make it sag more. U will not get optimum output. Ncr18650ga will be a better choice.

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"Also preparing for the case I checked that the FETs could be tapped to secure to the heatsink. "

Be sure you do not create an unintended current path.
Many of the FET heat sinks are connected directly to the Drains (center pin).
 
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