Strong rear rack for battery

999zip999

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The 12s of A123 20ah is breaking my aliumun rear was loking for something a lot stronger and cheap. The other 12s is taking up the triangle. Thanks.
 
Weld it up yourself or take it to machinist and then add a support arm to anywhere you can on the sway bar.
A flat stainless steel support arm to the base plate of the rack would probably be best as it will most likely be side to side sway that has caused the cracking.

That's my two cents anyway, I've customised a number of racks and it's amazing how much support you can add with a simple support.
 
First I ever heard of an aluminum ass.

I need you to clarify what's breaking, the aluminum rack, or the bike itself, like the bolt on points on the rear.

It should be possible to modify a seat post rack, much like I do for FS bikes. Small steel pipe such as half inch wire conduit, or other shapes like angle iron can be used to build your own bolt on braces. They can either go straight to the axle, or the axle area, or they could connect to the seat tube, forming a triangle.

The beam on a seat post rack generally makes attaching extra supports easy. Cheapest seat post rack generally available is a steel one from bell, but it has a plastic deck. You may find it at walmart or k mart. Under 20 bucks.

I may have one of those old steel racks that came with the Aotema kit. It bolts to a 12mm axle, but I don't know if it will work with a 14mm. Steel, you could weld on one of those to make it work.
 
cwah said:
Too bad there are no strong rear rack commercially available for full suspension bike
It's hard to mass produce a rack option for suspended frames when frame to frame mounting options vary.
There are plenty of decent racks that just need to be strengthened and modified a little to work well on fully suspended frames.
 
I have two very strong rear pannier racks for FS. They'll bust your seat post in half easily.

I've posted the pic of the solution, like hundreds of times. Brace it in a triangle. I carried up to 50 pounds on this rack for years. Never had less than 20 pounds.

But if this one has a solid frame, he can run the same kind of braces to the axle.

Axxiom pannier rack and supports.jpg
 
Its just a basic rear rack with three bars running down to one to the lug above the axle. It breaks just below where the three bars come togethere. Im thinking of making my own out of angle alumium stock
 
This Thule rack works quite well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASSOORE/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I thought the straps might be a weak point, but was wrong. I'm currently carrying a 14lb EM3ev battery for over 4 months with it.
 
You still aren't telling us shit.

Is this a solid frame, or a rack for solid frame on a FS bike?

Again, with the post mount rack, the beam is easy to bolt sturdy homemade legs to it. The wire racks, once they crack you are just about done, unless it's the really cheap steel one you can weld on.

But it could be possible to make a homemade leg to clamp onto the wire of an alloy wire rack. Make the clamp out of a big piece of aluminum sheet, so it will fold over the wire and spread out the forces along a bigger section of the rack. Then the leg can be made from whatever you like that is strong.

I do have a used, cheap and strong steel wire rack sitting around if you want it. 10 bucks plus shipping. Bolts to the seatpost clamp, and a 10mm rear axle. The kind that came with the WE kits, and carry 30 pounds of SLAs easy.
 
Buy a Wald rear rack. Get the one that bolts right to the rear axle. They're a little heavy though for good reason.
 
Sorry Dogman. I'm using my new phone with my fat fingers. I got a used rack and had a problem is where it connects just above the axle. Its not a stairt shoot as the rear of frame gets in the way. Dogman thanks for the offer but it must come in at back angle. So I may have to build my own.
 
Made my own brace from rack to frame out of aluminum 90 degree angle stock. It works good.Sounds like you need 2. One on each side.
 
Rack 001.JPGRack 004.JPG
Found some pices for a rack. Welded at the three corner and the they have a 2inch slip joint with a button, but will weld or blraze.
I think it was a glass 3 or 4 shelf 70's style display rack. So here I go. I bent the tube in the hole for the garage latch. I found out to stick the whole thing ing and pull out to bend. So kind of a one shoot deal. Plus used a big hammer to flatten. Enough for three steel racks.
Thats the cruve I had to make to get around to the lower tang and bolt to the frame. Just digging A.W. style. Or free for me
It's a diamond back accent xl 22inch hardtail comoly frame. As l'm 6'3" 225.
 
Ought to easily hold enough to smash a rim now. :twisted:

I keep wanting to see more cargo commuter frames in the cheap bike racks at walmart. Stuff like the ODK from juiced, that has a rear rack welded right into the frame. They are common in Holland, but nearly unavailable in the US.

All it would take is two bent tubes welded onto a cruiser frame.
 
The rack wouldn't be that heavy. It's the 12s of A123 20ah that has weigh but with 24s with one in the triangle theres not much of a choice. Because of the it' s just a commuter for street and trail.
 
I meant that rack will now hold a lot more, more than your rim can take. But your rim should take 12s 20 ah of lifepo4 easily. That's less than 15 pounds.
 
I couldn't wait for a mig welder so I baraze it. It's very strong and fitted to the back it dosn't flex and is as just like it's part of the comoly fame. No more aliumi. flex in the rear. Great. Pics later.
 
Sounds sweet. Nothing sucks like a heavily loaded rack that sways. Every pedal stroke, it wags like a dog, and you can often see the bike frame flex with every pump. Not good for long term to bend that frame 100 times per minute for miles.
 
these racks look really good and people tell me they are awesome.

http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/RackPages/RearRacks.html

rated to 70 pounds and they work with rear suspension bikes.

I've ordered one and will let you know how they work.
 
I have seen racks that attach to the swing arm only.

Now there's a really bad idea. You want your weight carried above the shock, not below it.
 
The bike is a 25 yr old comoly hard tail frame 22in xl. and now the brake rip off the front fork. So I got an old diamondback topanga large 20in. hardtail and the strong rack I made dosn't fix so here is rack # 2.broken rack 010.JPG
This is a pic of the old xl frame with rack one.
The second one is for the large frame diamond back. I had to bend the top arms down as it was almost rubbing on the tire. I frist brazed the rack for the smaller frame than had to make the bend downward to get more celerance for the wheel and wow it works. I did learn alot. But need to learn much more. I can beleive people here make a complete bike with all the enginering and angles ?

Yes it's made out of A.W. picking as I got the parts from the curb. An old glass shelve 70's show rack.

Notice the chain it's my beach bike. And the salt and sand combo takes it toll. The new bike will be just for the street. I will rebuild the the tall bike just for the beach. Yes as soon as I can afford a second battery. Dogman I will never caught up with your stable.
 
Look at Bontrager racks, the Backpack Seatpost in particular - I have it on my R1 and it held up the entire bike when I was assembling it (~60 lbs) - sure, not something I should be doing, but still, proves the point.

65090
IMG_20140117_105557_1.jpg
 
Not recommended if it is for a full suspension bike, especially if you go off road. I've used Topeak racks on non-suspension bikes with good success.
 
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