The Cycle Satiator, universal charger for the enthusiasts

john61ct said:
I am just guessing if I say yes, Justin states very clearly it depends on the load type


Also ask about those discrepancies about min voltage specs please

and report back let us know.
Which version do you use?
 
I'm stuck My old Satiator is easy. The new is throwing me problems loading. I'm stuck...

Grin links to USB chip are dead ends too.
 

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is there a solution to the condensation problem? and why does my charger just delete the coustum profiles. the device is new. costs a lot of coal. unfortunately the quality is bad.

MFG Michael
 
I have the same problems as you with the ability of the charger not to hold the custom profiles and the display having the visual problem.
Had the display problem right from the get go, the custom profile problem started 6m-1y later, I thought it might have been due to unplugging the display to keep the display from image freezing the screen like the old school monitors used to do as I found sometimes it would not move the screen around as in some states it does. I will keep a closer eye on it now.

They used to sell new displays but they werent cheap, not sure what the process is but he keeps it pretty tame like his c.a.

michih. said:
is there a solution to the condensation problem? and why does my charger just delete the coustum profiles. the device is new. costs a lot of coal. unfortunately the quality is bad.

MFG Michael
 
OK, I see. the quality is not good. For the price I expect a fully functional device. i will send it back

MFG Michael
 
michih. said:
OK, I see. the quality is not good.

I think what you mean is you have a problem with your single unit.

As for me, I've never seen another charger that's as well built as Cycle Satiator, nor one that does as many things.
 
Yes the cycle satiator is top quality :thumb: :thumb:
I would buy two if I needed another for a 3rd battery 8)
Since I already have one, its excellent.
Not sure what I did to have the saved profiles not stay, I tried to reflash but I was using linux but I am back to w10 so its a great reminder for me to try it again, I am sure thats all thats required. Pretty simple in theory, as I havent done anything yet.

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-satiator.html
 
michih. said:
OK, I see. the quality is not good. For the price I expect a fully functional device. i will send it back

MFG Michael
Yes there are some flaws, but IMO these are trivial ones.

But they are fantastic at the important stuff.

Please link to another actual charger - auto terminating - that lets you adjust both volts and amps and is that small and reliable for years.
 
michih. said:
is there a solution to the condensation problem? and why does my charger just delete the coustum profiles. the device is new. costs a lot of coal. unfortunately the quality is bad.

MFG Michael

The solution is a replacement faceplate sticker and a differently designed clear plastic piece that goes between it and the OLED screen. If the plastic piece was a only a stand-off frame around the screen then this probably wouldn't happen. Alternatively remove the plastic piece altogether and put some thin double-sided tape behind the screen to hold it in place.
 
john61ct said:
Yes there are some flaws, but IMO these are trivial ones.

What issues do you have with your Satiator? I have the first iteration and the second. Which do you have?
 
After 1.5yrs of using my 48v 8a satiator I can report these facts.

Well the plastic feet are coming off, two have come off but I carry it with me (in my backpack) when I ride, so no big deal and I ride every.single.day. I am actually quite surprised that they've stayed on for so long. The lost plastic feet reveal that screws/bolts are hiding underneath, nice place to hide 'em. Better then hiding them under a sticker uh.

The plastic down button, overlap broke a few days ago, but I could still use the button until today when the overlap of the button cracked even more and lost the rod that goes 0.5" to depress/press the button. I believe there might be two layers to whatever the overlap is, because I saw and could feel the top layer cracked, but I could still use the button, the rod was still place. When the second layer broke, holding in the rod, is now I cant use the button. So I just charge at my road riding voltage of 58.80v and 8a instead of my usual 56.00v @ 4a charge rate. Be nice to have a 48v 15a Satiator, but that market segment might be smaller with a whole new redesign of the product (Satiator).

The foggy display was only visible when unlit, I did not mind it much though kind of disheartening but I got mine on sale.

Like I posted earlier, I lost the ability to store and hold various charging profiles. It could just come to a matter of reflashing which I have attempted but my "computer" programing knowledge is next to nill, I did very very well getting into my Lyen 18 fet controller MarkIV software. The step by step guide helped in the Satiator guide up until seeking com ports and usb ports for the cable. I forget what the stumbling block for me was, most likely trying to find the COM port and the USB port, yeah that was my issue. I tried even usb port a few times over.

I unplug my Satiator when its not in use, be nice to have an on/off switch. I am to paranoid the screen might freeze an image, but that problem probably left us 20 yrs ago showing you how old I am ;)

What I called a rod, is a button plunger.
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/charger-accessories/satiator-overlay-and-button-plunger.html
$15 is a decent price, can't haggle with that.
This will fix my button problem, but would it fix the foggy display problem as well? A TWO-FOR yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa :thumb:

I need a XLR to XT90 thats better then my hack job. They got XT60, I would use those but they are to small for my fat fingers.
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/charger-accessories/xlr-to-male-xt60.html
To plug and unplug every.single.day

I can still charge, and I'd rather have the charger at 58.80v and 8a then 56v 4a, I need to charge up fast when I am out there. If I had two satiators, wow would I be styling.
 
Original used since they were introduced and on multiple voltages with issue. I’m thinking your problems are a result of not so careful device management. Yours is the exception not the rule.
 
tomjasz said:
Original used since they were introduced and on multiple voltages with issue. I’m thinking your problems are a result of not so careful device management. Yours is the exception not the rule.
I would like to agree with you, however I'm on my second Satiator now after the first had weird power issues as reported a few pages back.

Now my replacement charger has started having similar weird issues with it reporting the occasional 'Power fault' and the other day I lost all my profiles. Thankfully I had backed them up on my PC so was able to connect and restore most of them.

Will see how I go, but it doesn't bode well to be seeing my second Satiator in only 3 years failing. I never take them riding and treat them reasonably well.

I'm wondering if maybe there could be issues with them running off ~240V? I'm guessing Grin did a whole bunch of testing with them at 110V, but how much testing would have been done at 240? My AC also often peaks at 250V+ due to too many people in my area with solar (whole other issue that one!), so I wonder if the Satiator can't handle the higher voltage AC input?

Cheers
 
I’m sorry to read that. All I can report is that all I own have been problem free. While working support for California eBike we sold a few as did I and no negative feedback.

Any feedback from Justin?
 
My original has worked flawless for years and one of my new units, the high voltage unit, has worked just fine. My new mid voltage unit has power faults and I've traced it to a bad output cable or the contacts in the charger for the output cable. Have not had time to get it ironed out.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I'm wondering if maybe there could be issues with them running off ~240V?
...
My AC also often peaks at 250V+ due to too many people in my area with solar (whole other issue that one!), so I wonder if the Satiator can't handle the higher voltage AC input?

Spec sheet states:

100-240V AC Input Range

So yes very likely.

Many "universal input" devices give 250V or even higher as max input, and that extra range is a selling point.

As a general rule I try to avoid allowing min/max rating specs to even be approached, definitely stressful to components, lowering reliability and reducing lifespan
 
john61ct said:
Cowardlyduck said:
I'm wondering if maybe there could be issues with them running off ~240V?
...
My AC also often peaks at 250V+ due to too many people in my area with solar (whole other issue that one!), so I wonder if the Satiator can't handle the higher voltage AC input?

Spec sheet states:

100-240V AC Input Range

So yes very likely.

Many "universal input" devices give 250V or even higher as max input, and that extra range is a selling point.

As a general rule I try to avoid allowing min/max rating specs to even be approached, definitely stressful to components, lowering reliability and reducing lifespan


Which Satiator are you using?
 
I dont know for sure, but I think the device is UL listed and thats an expensive logo to get on your product, into the 6 digits easily.


Yeah I had it right from the beginning. I am sure they know about it, hopefully it was just whatever run they had for those and it was not a large lot and they are onto a 100% new batch to ship out.

michih. said:
is there a solution to the condensation problem? and why does my charger just delete the coustum profiles. the device is new. costs a lot of coal. unfortunately the quality is bad.

MFG Michael
 
tomjasz said:
Any feedback from Justin?
No as I haven't engaged grin yet about my latest issues. I'll see how it goes and if it gets much worse then I'll chase them up.

Oh, and both my units are the 72V version, typically used for 14S (52V) batteries, with occasional use with 18-22S batteries and semi-regular use at 12S and 24V SLA. Hence....I like my profiles!

Cheers
 
Cycle Satiator Programming Cable using a FTDI board.

Maybe this info will help others build their own programming cable. I have several FTDI boards laying around for programming so...
Note that I have keyed the FTDI board and header connector to prevent reverse connection...

Satiator-FTDI.png
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IMG_20220521_135837.jpg
IMG_20220523_094728.jpg
IMG_20220523_104525.jpg
 
How to circumvent the bug in the Cycle Satiator Software Suite: not able to save modified parameters of a profile.
:arrow: As a side-note: another Satiator Software Suite bug reports the Cycle Satiator software to be the lastest version but it is NOT!
So check for yourself the software version you have on the Satiator when booting up and update manually if needed.

After frustrating hours searching for a solution I came up empty...
Maybe it's the Linux Satiator Software Suite v1.102 only?

But I suddenly had the idea to do this:

- save your profile(s) to a file
- edit the XML file with a text editor
- read it back from disk into the Satiator Software Suite
- !! THEN check/set the ACTIVE, DEFAUT, EDITABLE state buttons (because those values are not read back properly!!)
- save it to the Cycle Satiator...

EUREKA!

I cannot understand such huge bugs to be in existence after all these years but I hope they will be resolved eventually.
 
Square wheels and square understanding. Goofy!
 
My 72v satiator it's a grin non water proof one . But it gets hot to the touch at 72v 4.5 amp. How normal is this. As I don't use it as it is slow compared to my meanwells. . Yes to hot to keep you hand on .
 
My old one definitely gets hotter than my new. 5 years between versions. 4A charging with newest gets warm 2A with orig gets hot but not to hot to hold.
 
999zip999 said:
My 72v satiator it's a grin non water proof one . But it gets hot to the touch at 72v 4.5 amp. How normal is this. As I don't use it as it is slow compared to my meanwells. . Yes to hot to keep you hand on .
Get an actual measurement. Reduce current to keep the hottest component under say 120°F ?

I think 130 would be pushing it
 
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