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thoughts on the Wilderness Energy BL36 26" front hub ki

sulphuric99

10 mW
Joined
Sep 8, 2007
Messages
30
Location
McKinney, TX
I've put about 100 miles total on this kit mounted to a plain steel frame, no suspension mountain bike with 26" wheels. Bike pictured here: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2179

With the 36V 12AH SLA's that came with the kit, peak speed on flat ground was 20MPH using 26" Continental "Town and Country" tires. (With plain MTB nobbies, I remember the peak was around 2-3MPH lower, but they sure had grip!) I never ran the SLA's all the way down, but after 14 miles of pretty much no pedaling the bike's speed and acceleration was noticeably slower. I would feel comfortable going around 15 miles on this kit without pedaling.

Today I went for my first real ride with a 12S4P A123 pack (39.6V 9.2AH). Wow! Acceleration is noticeably improved, and my peak speed is around .5-1MPH faster. Also, unlike SLA's, I didn't notice a drop off in peak speed/acceleration anytime during my ride. Some specs with no pedaling, typically going at max speed whenever possible and safe, flat roads:

Total time: 79 minutes
Total distance: 16.25 miles
Average speed: 12.3mph, Max: 25mph
Rider weight: 135 pounds

After the trip, I immediately recharged the pack using a Hyperion EOS 1210I-A charger. It reported 7.588 Ah used to recharge the pack to full. Assuming 85% charging efficiency (wild guess), this works out to around 6.45 Ah of capacity used for my ride, or ~255 watt-hours at 39.6v (I don't have a watt-hour meter like the Drain Brain yet, so this is the best i can do.) So this works out to around 16 watt-hours per mile. (This value seems a bit low given the specs I've seen posted - do these specs sound wildly inaccurate to anyone?)

Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this kit. Except for a bit of dropout filing, it was easy to install. If I was going to do this again, I would just skip the SLA's entirely and spend the money on another Dewalt pack.

Some downsides:
- Some of the hub motor's spokes where a bit loose, and the wheel didn't spin true out of the box. I've mostly fixed this, but a couple of the spokes still feel more loose than I would like, which concerns me.

- The default thumb throttle becomes sheer torture after a few minutes of holding it down.

- No battery fuse is included with the stock kit (!).

- I wouldn't take the stock kit out into the rain without sealing, taping, or covering everything up. The controller especially didn't look completely sealed to me (<i>mostly</i> sealed, but not quite 100%).

Some recommendations as you are installing the kit:
- The SLA's that come with the kit fit pretty snugly into the included battery bag. I put some thick cardboard beneath the batteries, and some thin cardboard in between each one. The cardboard acts like a last resort shock absorber, reducing stress on the batteries when going over potholes, jumping curbs, etc.

- Tape the battery wires in the bag down to the batteries, and ensure all the connectors are tight. I had the connectors come loose a few times on my early trips.
 
Thanks for the great report, sulphuric99.

Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this kit. Except for a bit of dropout filing, it was easy to install.

Unless you're using separate torque arms (?), you should check the dropouts every once in a while to watch for signs of impending failure such as cracks or spreading. Filing already weak dropouts for a strong hubmotor is not a good idea -- no matter what the directions with some of these kits say. Filing the hubmotor axle is preferable. You're using a relatively low power, so probably you'll be ok -- just something to watch for.

Some of the hub motor's spokes where a bit loose, and the wheel didn't spin true out of the box. I've mostly fixed this, but a couple of the spokes still feel more loose than I would like, which concerns me.

Yes. With hubmotors, loose spokes = eventually broken spokes.
 
echo xy comments here - get the spokes tightened (maybe get the wheel true too) and get a torque arm on there if you dont have one?


D
 
How tight should the spokes be? Can there be any "play" in the spokes at all? I think for a few of them, if I tighten them too much the wheel won't spin true anymore. So it's a balance between tight spokes and good brakes.. :roll:

Also, I first noticed the loose spoke problem after hearing a new, subtle crunching-like sound as the wheel rotated. (Hard to discribe, but you'll know it when you hear it.) This happened after my first few rides.

When I put together the bike, I didn't know anything about torque arms. The little photocopied instruction manual never even mentioned them (or pretty much anything about dropout issues for that matter). The next time I take off the wheel, I'm going to spend some time looking into this.
 
I also have a WE BL36 (the old 400watt model) in front wheel of an all-steel bike. Mine has front suspension, which they recommend against. All in all a great value, I think. I bought mine used and have had no problems with the setup at all. Added a watts-up meter and a 4th 12v 12ah sla to give me 48v total. The controller and motor have both handled the extra power with no problems. The extra power is noticeable. The only problem was figuring out how to mount the extra battery. For now I have it strapped on top of the 2 batteries in the bag.

I have MTB tires and think I get up to 23-24 mph on flat. There isn't flat long enough to tell here. With 36v top speed was about 19. I guess I need to get some street tires.

I really can't think of anything bad to say about the WE kit other than I can't take the voltage up any higher. I've been using it to commute about 9 miles roundtrip to the train station
 
sulphuric99 said:
How tight should the spokes be? Can there be any "play" in the spokes at all? I think for a few of them, if I tighten them too much the wheel won't spin true anymore. So it's a balance between tight spokes and good brakes.. :roll:

You may have to loosen all the spokes and re-tension and re-true.
There's good online resources for how to do this. Here's one:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#tensioning
 
Thanx for the great report 99 and good advice which I will follow.
Just got my first ebike kit and its a WE BL36 kit also.
I'm assembling it now and hoping for an experienced hand to comment on my drop outs because mine don't fit either.
I removed the paint and they're tight on the sides (but OK I believe) but the bottom of the motor axel is a different curve (shallower) than my drop outs so I believe I have to grind the dropouts to get the axel to the bottom of the drop out unless they're OK where they are now. (I read Xys advice against this).

The wired side appears to fit better but its the same fit as the non-wired side which has a flanged hub that goes into the drop-out.
EDIT: Both sides probably 1/8" + from the bottom of the drop-out.
 

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I will differ and advocate grinding the dropouts:

It is probably better to have the axle seat all the way, so less leverage is acted on the dropouts by the axle.

Moreover, forks are cheap, motors are not. Plus, you may want to move your motor to another bike: a ground-down axle is a pain to restore.

:?
 
TylerDurden said:
Moreover, forks are cheap, motors are not. Plus, you may want to move your motor to another bike: a ground-down axle is a pain to restore.

:?

If the fork fails, much more than the fork will probably be damaged -- like the rider and the motor. The rider by going over the handlebars, the motor by having its wires ripped out from the inside as they're spun around the axle. Un-fortified front forks and hubmotors have already proven a dangerous combination. Why make the problem worse? Hubmotor axles don't seem prone to failure like forks are. Just don't grind the axle more than necessary, and restoring it won't be necessary either. I had the same choice to make. I ground my axles. Hence TD, I differ with your differing.
 
In my experience with front hub motors, it's often the paint that won't let the hub motor fit. I usually just sand off the paint and then it fits tight. But if you sand off the paint and still doesn't fit, yeah some axial grind might be better than some fork grind, but just depends on what kind of forks you have (steel or aluminum?)
 
TylerDurden said:
Caveat: I ASSume all hubbies supplement with some sort of torque-arm.
:?

You didn't say that the first time. All hubbies do not fortify their forks or rear dropouts adequately, which is why we've had a few unholy hubby mishaps happen here. Thankfully, no injuries to person, just grubby hubbies hoofing home with their forks porked and their motors hosed. If I recall correctly, a hubby on the PA forum suffered a hellish hubby injury from fractured front forks.
 
xyster said:
You didn't say that the first time. All hubbies do not fortify their forks or rear dropouts adequately, which is why we've had a few unholy hubby mishaps happen here. Thankfully, no injuries to person, just grubby hubbies hoofing home with their forks porked and their motors hosed. If I recall correctly, a hubby on the PA forum suffered a hellish hubby injury from fractured front forks.

n-n-n-now s-say that like p-pp-porky pig!!!

:lol:
 
But if you sand off the paint and still doesn't fit,
I did, it didn't.
yeah some axial grind might be better than some fork grind, but just depends on what kind of forks you have (steel or aluminum?)
steel forks - Worksman Industrial bike w/heavy steel fork and frame.

Th Th Th ats all Folks and Tha Tha Tha Thanks
 

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If you get the axle nuts tight enough, the friction between the motor and the face of the dropout will take all the torque. If the nuts get loose, even a torque arm may not be enough to prevent the axle from spinning out.

I'd really like to see a better torque arm arrangement. One idea I had would be to take the non-wired end of the axle and turn the cylindrical part that sticks out of the motor into a hexagon so you could fit a box wrench onto the hex. The box wrench would be cut off and stuck between the motor housing and the fork. Then it should be fairly easy to anchor the end of the box wrench to the fork leg with some kind of clamp. If they made the motor with a 12 point "star" that fit a 12 point box wrench, then you would have much more flexibility in mounting and be able to adapt to a wider variety of dropout angles.

I think the box wrench setup would be way stronger than anything that holds onto the flats of the axle.
 
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