Throttle Hall Sensor replacement?

[e-beach]

So I ordered 4 left handed throttles Friday. should be a couple weeks I would think till I get them. When they arrive I will open them up and see what Hall sensor they use and order a bunch of those. I ordered a slightly different one then the standard. While riding on my bike trip after 40 miles or so I thumb starts to hurt in the spot that I keep it held down. Hoping this new one word better.

Left handed? Why the change from the normal right handed?

As for opening them all, just start with one and see what is in there. The chances are they all have the same Halls. Opening them all will only weaken the plastic nubs that keep them together.

 

[lwik]

So I ordered 4 left handed throttles Friday. should be a couple weeks I would think till I get them. When they arrive I will open them up and see what Hall sensor they use and order a bunch of those. I ordered a slightly different one then the standard. While riding on my bike trip after 40 miles or so I thumb starts to hurt in the spot that I keep it held down. Hoping this new one word better.

Left handed? Why the change from the normal right handed?

As for opening them all, just start with one and see what is in there. The chances are they all have the same Halls. Opening them all will only weaken the plastic nubs that keep them together.

I only plan to open 1 up and I am sure they all have the same Hall sensors.

As for the left side I have a Rolhoff Speed hub gear changer. I prefer that on the right side.

 

[e-beach]

Nice looking handlebar setup.

I like to split the duties of my right and left hand as well. I have gone moto style on my breaking so my right hand and arm aren't taking all the work of throttle and breaking. I feel less stress on my hands and arms by spiting the duty between them. Before I went moto, my right arm felt sore and battered all the time. Now that I have switched the fatigue is gone.

When you open your new throttle, let us know what Hall in in there.

 

[fechter]

Moisture could be backfeeding the full pack voltage into one of the hall sensor pins and frying it. On one of my throttles, I took the body apart and covered all the hall wires with epoxy (potted it). It should be OK to use underwater like that. Inside the body, the wires were exposed where they come out of the sensor and easy to have water issues.

 

[lwik]

Nice looking handlebar setup.

I like to split the duties of my right and left hand as well. I have gone moto style on my breaking so my right hand and arm aren't taking all the work of throttle and breaking. I feel less stress on my hands and arms by spiting the duty between them. Before I went moto, my right arm felt sore and battered all the time. Now that I have switched the fatigue is gone.

When you open your new throttle, let us know what Hall in in there.

I will absolutely let you know what Hall is in there.

 

[lwik]

Moisture could be backfeeding the full pack voltage into one of the hall sensor pins and frying it. On one of my throttles, I took the body apart and covered all the hall wires with epoxy (potted it). It should be OK to use underwater like that. Inside the body, the wires were exposed where they come out of the sensor and easy to have water issues.

So if I understand you correctly, in the throttle it's self, the hall sensor has 3 bare wires coming out of the Hall Sensor and they are then sobered to 3 wires that run to the throttle connector. You are epoxying this 3 exposed areas from the hall sensor to the wire shielding? Because if those wires are wet, it some how can full battery voltage and fry the Hall sensor?

I was told to disconnect the 4th unused wire in the connector on the controller side since if moisture gets in there it can bridge the the full battery voltage to the 5v pins and short out the sensor.

Your talking about epoxying the exposed wiring on the actual hall sensor, in the throttle?

Thanks!

 

[fechter]

Yes, the legs coming out of the hall sensor body. Right where they come out, they were exposed. I epoxied the whole area and covered all the wires.

Disconnecting the 4th wire would help, but that runs the batter meter in the throttle, so no more indicator if you do that. If you have another battery meter, it won't matter.

The one below isn't mine, but similar. Most of them can come apart fairly easily. Just be sure the epoxy doesn't interfere with the path of the moving magnet parts.

 

[amberwolf]

Disconnecting the 4th wire would help, but that runs the batter meter in the throttle, so no more indicator if you do that. If you have another battery meter, it won't matter.

Or just take the meter board out of the throttle while in there, and move it somewhere else on it's own cable. Perhaps open up an old handlebar-mount front reflector (clear) and stick the board inside that, silicone or epoxy it back together, then install it in an empty spot on the bars (or stem, etc). Or leave off the reflector part and just cover the board with epoxy or silicone (clear).

 

[lwik]

Hi Again, so the Chinese mail order of 4 throttles came in last night, finally. I opened on up to find out what hall effect sensor it uses and googled it to order more, but the exact number I can not find? From the image included it is "S49EH 606" I can find S49E but I am not sure how close they are. These throttles have a slot that the sensor fits into which is nice. Also these throttles have 3 screews that hold it together so I should be able to replace the sensor and assemble the throttle again with out damaging the housing to much.

Any idea on similar or exact replacement ones I can order?

Thanks!

 

[fechter]

Generically, it's SS49E. Here is the datasheet:
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/187/honeywell-sensing-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-datasheet-00-740288.pdf

Most of the differences between suffix types is the leg arrangement. I think any of them would work.

Now that you have it apart, you can see the area that needs to be sealed. The side of the hall chip where the legs come out can be sealed with some kind of glue to prevent moisture from getting between the legs and shorting things out. It just has to fit in the housing when it's done. Epoxy is probably the best, but silicone can work if you get it squeezed between the legs with no gaps. Once the glue is dry, you can trim it if necessary. With silicone, you could just reassemble the housing before it cures and it will take the required shape.

 

[lwik]

Hi Again, so the Chinese mail order of 4 throttles came in last night, finally. I opened on up to find out what hall effect sensor it uses and googled it to order more, but the exact number I can not find? From the image included it is "S49EH 606" I can find S49E but I am not sure how close they are. These throttles have a slot that the sensor fits into which is nice. Also these throttles have 3 screews that hold it together so I should be able to replace the sensor and assemble the throttle again with out damaging the housing to much.

Any idea on similar or exact replacement ones I can order?

Thanks!

This new throttle operates the same i'm sure but it looks different. The other throttle I had, and the one you posted an image of, had 2 magnets. I understand the reason for 2 magnets and how they work. In this new one, there is just one large piece of metal as you can see in the photo. My best guess is that it is one long curved magnet? The hall sensor sits in a slot to the left side of the magnet that you can see, when the throttle is pushed to 100% it slides and hall sensor stops at the other side of the metal(magnet). I expected to see 2 smaller magnets like the other one, but I guess the principles are the same and I am just looking at a large curved magnet?

 

[fechter]

Yes, it looks like a single magnet. Those are magnetized so it behaves like two magnets. One end will be north facing the hall and the other end will be south facing the hall. I have some that are like that.

 

[lwik]

Yes, it looks like a single magnet. Those are magnetized so it behaves like two magnets. One end will be north facing the hall and the other end will be south facing the hall. I have some that are like that.

Thanks for all your help Fechter!

Last question, if you know the answer... I found these 49E on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-49E-Hall-element-S49E-Linear-Hall-/261991644194?hash=item3cffeb3c22:g:6AkAAOSwv9hW3omL#shpCntId

They lack description of what current it takes and outputs. Is that because the 49E is a standard version and specs for this model are the same? I have seen some with high Voltage loads and other varying factors. But if this is what I need I will get a few packs of them.

Thanks!

 

[fechter]

Those should be exactly like the stock sensors in your throttle. I'm sure they will work.

 

[patdam]

Hi

does somebody can help me ? I use my throttle only for walk mode (BAFANG M500). currently i have an hall sensor S49EH powered by 5VDC and it is provide the 5V at full throtlle (hall sensitivity is -100/+100 mT). It is to much for my use and i have difficulty to control the throttle action. I think i need to have +- 2Vdc at full throttle. may be i can solve my problem with hall sensor with less ssensitivity ? does somebody have an recomendation of ref to order ? or other solution ?

thank you for your help

 

[fechter]

The easiest thing would be to put a voltage divider on the signal line to limit the maximum output. There are several ways to do this. The simplest would be to place a resistor in line with the signal wire. If you use a small potentiometer, you make it adjustable. The controller will have a resistor from the signal line to ground internally, which will make half of the divider circuit. Typical is around 10k-20k ohms. If you place a 20k resistor in series with the signal line, max throttle will be about 1/2. If you have a 100k pot in series, you can adjust it for the desired response. Doing it this way will also increase the "dead band" at the beginning, so you'll have to pull the throttle more to get the motor to start. Just be aware.

Another approach I've seen is to rig a push button and potentiometer so you just push the button and get a fixed speed.

 

[patdam]

thanks. following recommandation of SJC "master electronic man" i will add "divider bridge" with 2 x 10K resistor on output cable. i think that will divise output tension by 2 and that will be enough for my use.

 

[fechter]

Yes that will work and give you roughly 1/2 output. You can play around with the resistor values to get it where you want it.