ToSeven DM01 Set Up Questions

Oh...that is interesting! I don't know what to say...what does "better" mean? Maybe something else to everyone? I cannot comment on this since I got it this way ...If I knew what the specific differences in performance are according to the unhappy users, then I would have something to hold on to....but like this I feel it is too risky.....I am not sure about this whole Programm procedure here. If I trust it. Or better not ..

But many thanks for the heads up!
I am having a problem... Katherine from To7 wants me to update the firmware..I have no choice because I will not get any further support if I don't follow her instructions.. Problem: I have no clue how to do it....I have downloaded the flash tool, I have connected the cable to USB and to the controller....but nothing happens..I cannot see any new device in "my computer"....
Does anyone here know how to go about it so that it works? I am kind of lost...
 
Thanks very much! I am stuck here: he knows at what com Port he is (com 3) . How does he know? I don't see anything...and then in am getting com Port error 123 and I click on uart...and there comes a list of possible com ports...I have selected a few.. none of the worked ..where is my mistake? What am I doing wrong or is it my PC (it is on Windows 10) they say it does not work with 11...I have one with 11 also....
My problem is: I don't see a com port in my device manager... according to to7 I should?... No clue...
 

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So I found the com port...assigned it to uart...still getting I/O error message...
 
You can't assign a com port to a UART, unless you are using that term wrong. a UART is a buffering chip, it is a bit of hardware (well I guess you could do it as an emulation).

It sounds like you have a windows configuration issue. Your computer has an actual serial port?? I wasn't aware that anyone was still installing those. Or do you have a USB/Serial Emulator cable?

Ok, I am not being mean. I am just gonna be a little more ... blunt than I ever would have been to a client.

You need to understand what you are doing with your computer before you start doing it, not after when it costs dollars per minute to get a nerd to look under the hood.

The guy in the video figured out what his com port was because it was the only one he had. Com ports are almost never in systems anymore. Unless you actually go buy a card that has one, I don't think there is a modern mb that has one.

You need to go a little deeper under the hood to see what is happening. Serial communications was originally configured using a thing called a dip switch. It was a situation where to change it's settings, you took the car out of your computer, and moved a wee lil clip around the pins to change it's configuration.

I am gonna assume you are using a USB cable, so you have serial in emulation, which means to change the settings, it will not be dip switches, you have to know how the folks that made that cable decided to implement the addressing that is presented to the OS.

If you are still stuck Saturday hit me up, I will hop on a voice channel with ya and help out. This is one of the wierder bits of computerese that I am fairly good with
 
You can't assign a com port to a UART, unless you are using that term wrong. a UART is a buffering chip, it is a bit of hardware (well I guess you could do it as an emulation).

It sounds like you have a windows configuration issue. Your computer has an actual serial port?? I wasn't aware that anyone was still installing those. Or do you have a USB/Serial Emulator cable?

Ok, I am not being mean. I am just gonna be a little more ... blunt than I ever would have been to a client.

You need to understand what you are doing with your computer before you start doing it, not after when it costs dollars per minute to get a nerd to look under the hood.

The guy in the video figured out what his com port was because it was the only one he had. Com ports are almost never in systems anymore. Unless you actually go buy a card that has one, I don't think there is a modern mb that has one.

You need to go a little deeper under the hood to see what is happening. Serial communications was originally configured using a thing called a dip switch. It was a situation where to change it's settings, you took the car out of your computer, and moved a wee lil clip around the pins to change it's configuration.

I am gonna assume you are using a USB cable, so you have serial in emulation, which means to change the settings, it will not be dip switches, you have to know how the folks that made that cable decided to implement the addressing that is presented to the OS.

If you are still stuck Saturday hit me up, I will hop on a voice channel with ya and help out. This is one of the wierder bits of computerese that I am fairly good with
This is what I am referring to... Not completely out of the blue....haha.
 
Yeah, honestly it is no worse than any other engineers instructions before we put it through the engineer to human interface device...

So, it I can't actually make this work, I do not have the cable so not a chance it is gonna be identified on my system.

I am booked out from 9am today through something like 1800, then off for dinner and I have kiddo duty, I will be able to help ya out tomorrow. I see where you are at, I feel your frustration, you jumped in the deep in the pool and found out is a bit chilly, but, there are answers and I will do what I can to help ya find em.
 
Very kind of you... I wonder if no one here has successfully attempted to make an update...John in the video obviously has...
 
FYI for those trying to figure out how the modes work. If the torque sensor is disabled in the basic menu, and pedal sensor is enabled, then you will gain access the eco/city/sport modes. If you have both enabled, the mode access changes to m1(torque) m2(cadence).

I'm having probelms getting anything to work with the m1/m2 mode however. So I'm having to keep the torque sensor disabled
 
FYI for those trying to figure out how the modes work. If the torque sensor is disabled in the basic menu, and pedal sensor is enabled, then you will gain access the eco/city/sport modes. If you have both enabled, the mode access changes to m1(torque) m2(cadence).

I'm having probelms getting anything to work with the m1/m2 mode however. So I'm having to keep the torque sensor disabled
the dealer I'm intending to buy a DM-01 from is reporting the same problems with his pre-sale units, he won't release them until ToSeven deals with it in their firmware. It sound to me on the Discord chat from High Voltage Bikes that some people aren't having this issue.
 
the dealer I'm intending to buy a DM-01 from is reporting the same problems with his pre-sale units, he won't release them until ToSeven deals with it in their firmware. It sound to me on the Discord chat from High Voltage Bikes that some people aren't having this issue.
Sing Tiu E bike store I got mine from here,

edit: I bought it on the 6th of Feb 2024, it arrived on 4th March.
 
Has anyone managed to get their DM01/DM02 working better with the newer M1/M2 firmware? I.e. instant power assist as soon as you start pedalling and then instant stop of PAS when pedalling stops?

Otherwise, has anyone tried flashing back to the old Eco/City/Sport firmware?
 
I never had the ECS version, started right away with M1/M2, using only M1 (torque sensing) and I am 80-90% happy. Instant power assist and instant stop. No problem
 
I never had the ECS version, started right away with M1/M2, using only M1 (torque sensing) and I am 80-90% happy. Instant power assist and instant stop. No problem
Thank you. Have you changed any of the default settings?
 
I have changed a bit the values for the support levels.. percentage, speed, whatever. and increased the number from 5 to 8...I am not even sure that
This did a big effect or not...no idea. the one thing that did something for sure was to change the torque filter value from 2 to 0 . This helped get rid of the lag of support Everytime I would stop pedalling. It got much smoother that way.
(This is in the advanced settings under torque settings)
One more thing I was unhappy with was lack of support in M1 mode when going up a very steep hill and for this I was sent an experimental firmware version that did help...although support still is " unround " under these conditions, meaning it feels like the chain wheel was not round but rather elliptical...these are the missing 10-15% in my satisfaction level. I think the motor is on a good way and has high potential. Also support from them is good although I am very unhappy that there is no concise manual for end users who are not e bike engineers...it would really be good to be able to understand what setting does what and why instead of being left alone and having to do exactly what you did, namely ask other users what they did...I do not understand why they are not able or willing to sit down for a couple hours and write down what can be tweaked in the settings in order to achieve what...seems to be asking too much
 
One more thing I was unhappy with was lack of support in M1 mode when going up a very steep hill and for this I was sent an experimental firmware version that did help...although support still is " unround " under these conditions, meaning it feels like the chain wheel was not round but rather elliptical...
By this I assume, you are getting varying motor assist within a pedal rotation. If that is the case, increasing the torque filter value will probably make it feel less "unround" (caveat - I am not familiar with ToSeven drive systems)
 
By this I assume, you are getting varying motor assist within a pedal rotation. If that is the case, increasing the torque filter value will probably make it feel less "unround" (caveat - I am not familiar with ToSeven drive systems)
You may be right...in that case I am "lost" because I needed to get the filter down to zero in order to get continuous and smooth support under "normal" circumstances. Default is 2 (max is 10) and there already it was annoying me that support would stop when I stopped pedalling and only picked up again after half a second or so after I started pedalling again...so if these should be my alternatives I would stay with zero..because the high pressure/low cadence occurs much less than "regular" riding....I will try to make a sound file from the noise I am getting and send it to To7 in the hope they will have an idea how to solve this issue other than increasing filter value...
Anyways: I am impressed that you even know to consider the filter value as a reason....you must really be knowledgeable....I would so much want to have a good users Manual that explains the use of the various variables....and their interaction in order to optimize the motor performance according to the users needs.. To7 does not seem to want to do this...maybe they don't even understand what i am taking about ...their definitions have this kind of quality: FOC: value of FOC

But what is FOC? What do you do with it? 😉🤣

Just as an example....would you be able/willing to help me put together such a guide by helping me understand the various items if I ask you questions?
 
You may be right...in that case I am "lost" because I needed to get the filter down to zero in order to get continuous and smooth support under "normal" circumstances. Default is 2 (max is 10) and there already it was annoying me that support would stop when I stopped pedalling and only picked up again after half a second or so after I started pedalling again...so if these should be my alternatives I would stay with zero..because the high pressure/low cadence occurs much less than "regular" riding....I will try to make a sound file from the noise I am getting and send it to To7 in the hope they will have an idea how to solve this issue other than increasing filter value...
My take on torque sensor system is that as the assist increases, the pulsating torque experienced by the rider increases. And lesser the assist, rider would feel less pulsating torque or even not notice it. Filtering can decrease it's effect, but higher the motor assist, higher lag would be inevitable to reduce it.

Earlier it was mentioned that you got the firmware to be changed to provide more assist - that would make the chainring more elliptical ;)

I would say that even on an analogue bike, this pulsating effect at high torque is present. Imagine going up a steep hill on an analogue, twice during a pedal rotation, there would be peak torque and thus pulsating torque. But at that time, brain cells are busy processing the struggle and have less bandwidth to let one care about the "elliptical chainring"

Just as an example....would you be able/willing to help me put together such a guide by helping me understand the various items if I ask you questions?
I am sorry to disappoint you, I have never used (or even physically seen) a ToSeven system or even know the various configuration options in it, familiarity mostly is from reading ES threads. My earlier drive-by comment is based on general understanding of torque sensor controller firmware (& not ToSeven familiarity). I have never ridden a torque sensor-ed ebike yet, though I plan to try soon with an ulterior motive ;)

Reg questions, if it is known or can be figured out, I will answer within my time constraints
 
In think I understand what you are saying...makes sense to me.

I will to put together a list of features/variables and maybe you can try to answer how tweaking what variable influences the performance in what way...

Maybe this will lead to the desired result ..TIA anyway!
 
Didn't see anyone mention switching to sensitive mode instead of safe mode. That helped the response as well. I think it's in the torque sensor submenu in the advanced menu. If it's already been mentioned then disregard.
 
the dealer I'm intending to buy a DM-01 from is reporting the same problems with his pre-sale units, he won't release them until ToSeven deals with it in their firmware. It sound to me on the Discord chat from High Voltage Bikes that some people aren't having this issue.
Please note that we released the latest firmware last week, we have corrected the following issues, please visit our website for downloading, thanks
1- Resolves the issue of turning on and then turning off
2- Eliminates the occurrence of repeated power-on when stopping
3- Enhances performance in M2 mode
4- Updates motor parameters concurrently with firmware updates

Any further questions please let us know, thanks
 
Has anyone managed to get their DM01/DM02 working better with the newer M1/M2 firmware? I.e. instant power assist as soon as you start pedalling and then instant stop of PAS when pedalling stops?

Otherwise, has anyone tried flashing back to the old Eco/City/Sport firmware?
Please note that we released the latest firmware last week, we have corrected the following issues, please visit our website for downloading, thanks
1- Resolves the issue of turning on and then turning off
2- Eliminates the occurrence of repeated power-on when stopping
3- Enhances performance in M2 mode
4- Updates motor parameters concurrently with firmware updates

And we have also updated our display firmware, the latest firmware has deleted M2 mode, if you prefer our motor without M2 mode, please re-flash your display, thanks.

Any further questions please let us know, thanks
 
Felhívjuk figyelmét, hogy a múlt héten kiadtuk a legújabb firmware-t, a következő problémákat javítottuk. Kérjük, látogassa meg weboldalunkat a letöltéshez! Köszönjük
1- Megoldja a be-, majd a kikapcsolás problémáját
2- Kiküszöböli az ismételt bekapcsolás előfordulását megálláskor
3- Növeli a teljesítményt M2 módban
4- Frissíti a motorparamétereket a firmware-frissítésekkel egyidejűleg

És frissítettük a kijelző firmware-jét is, a legújabb firmware törölte az M2 módot, ha inkább M2 mód nélküli motorunkat részesíti előnyben, kérjük, villogassa újra a kijelzőjét, köszönjük.

Bármilyen további kérdése van, kérjük, jelezze felénk! Köszönjük
Hol kapható a frissítéshez szükséges dedikált programozó készlet???
 
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