Tsdz2 firmware open source adapted to vlcd5, vlcd6 and xh18

[Eoinywoney]

Hi Everyone,

48v motor and battery.

I was running v20.1C for close to 3000km with no issues.

I think I flashed v20.1.3NEW to my motor in early august (I didn't think it flashed at the time but it felt different on the first ride, I was sure it had changed and I burned a MOSFET about 40km in).

Is there any way to find out if v20.1.3 definitely flashed to the motor?

I've reverted back to v20.1C.1 on a new motor and did not have any heating issues on a short 40km ride yesterday.
Can we consider v20.1C.1 safe for 48v Motors or would you consider v20.1B to be more safe?

I have never used V20.1B, started on v20.1C and love the improvements over stock, especially the power at higher cadences. I think I would miss hybrid mode and would I lose the higher cadence response with v20.1B?

Thank you Embrusa for all your hard work and Elinx for your help.

As an aside, attached are my settings. After a lot of trial and error I find these settings perfect for me. Fast road cycling. Quite low assistance multipliers but high overall watts, acceleration down a tad.

 

[Elinx]

....
Is there any way to find out if v20.1.3 definitely flashed to the motor?

I've reverted back to v20.1C.1 on a new motor and did not have any heating issues on a short 40km ride yesterday.
Can we consider v20.1C.1 safe for 48v Motors or would you consider v20.1B to be more safe?....

The difference is that you can switch off Fieldweakening on display with v20.C3new (L4-E02) which can't with v20.C1

v20.C1 should be safe for all tsdz2 versions, but v20.1B runs already from may 2020 without complains. It is that fact that indicates its stability.

 

[Eoinywoney]

....
Is there any way to find out if v20.1.3 definitely flashed to the motor?

I've reverted back to v20.1C.1 on a new motor and did not have any heating issues on a short 40km ride yesterday.
Can we consider v20.1C.1 safe for 48v Motors or would you consider v20.1B to be more safe?....

The difference is that you can switch off Fieldweakening on display with v20.C3new (L4-E02) which can't with v20.C1

v20.C1 should be safe for all tsdz2 versions, but v20.1B runs already from may 2020 without complains. It is that fact that indicates its stability.

Thank you Elinx that explains a lot. I think I'll stick with v20.1C.1 for now, maybe I'll switch to a different display or go for Bluetooth eventually but for now I'm very happy with how it feels. I'll report back if I have any issues.

Thanks again.

 

[Carlo772]

Thanks for the tips regarding the flashing problem and also the other tips. I already bought the aluminium heat plate and other items to do the heatsink mod. I use an external temp sensor as i want to be able to use the throttle. 52V battery i am looking forward to ordering now.

I downloaded the TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.1-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 firmware/software and used the java program to flash the motor which got around the error message where the current master version is disabled.

I used the settings for 48v motor and 36v battery which is what I have. I set the throttle to available to use and MPH as my preference and display control the speed limit.

Flashing worked it was fast too and had good messages to show the connection to the motor was made and over very quick.

I was able to take the bike out for a quick test ride which i thought would be 5 mins but turned into over an hour because tsdz2 is so nice to ride compared to the bafang bbs01b. It feels so natural to cycle as you pedal. Nothing like the bafang with the cadence sensing. I really wish the reviewers who have both motors would mention that tsdz2 is better for mountain bikes for the torque sensing being so good for slow accurate riding.

Near to getting home i noticed that the speed was not as fast as my old motor that was on a 36t chainring and now its a 42t so in theory should be quicker. Mostly the speed seems to be about 16 MPH on the flat and if i push it can go to about 20. I think the max i saw with throttle only was about 18 mph.

The old motor could easily to 22 mph with the throttle which was my theoretical speed limit on the 36t and 11 speed gears. With 42t i should be able to get to 25mph easily.

So near to home i wondered maybe i should check if the display was setting speed limits as i asked the firmware to do that and maybe that it was set to 15 MPH limit and adjust that. VLCD5 is very fiddly to get to the setup screen i spent 10 mins to get into the setting menu. When i got in and saw that the speed was set to 40 which is the upper limit. Somehow when cycling through the menu i set the speed to KMH and it reset by accident.

I then noticed that the motor would not move and the throttle did nothing. This is much worse than when i first got the motor turned on with the 36v battery and stock firmware where that at least had the throttle in walk assist mode.

Setting the display back to MPH did not make the motor come back alive. Thankfully i was near home and so it was a short ride home under normal pedalling and I am grateful the motor is not very resistant to turn the pedals unlike the Bafang motor which is a nightmare when you run out of battery. Also grateful i did not fiddle with the display when i was far from home.

One thing i did notice was the display battery level dropped from 4 bars to 1 bar. It was like the motor firmware got a factory reset but this time the walk assist throttle was off so that it did nothing.

I did wonder if my battery was suddenly flat, but it was full when i started and i can press a button on the side of the battery that shows battery power level leds for how full the battery is and it lights up all the bars.

Pretty odd as an hour cycling I would have thought used up more battery so at least one led light would be out but it didnt do that yet on the display when it was working or the side of the battery. I guess tsdz2 is very power efficient and i did used the throttle about 30% of the time.

So now i wonder should i flash the motor again or have i fried the controller? its 100% to do with me going into the VLCD5 display and changing it that stopped it all working. I'm now recharging the battery and will test it again but i dont think its a battery problem.

I sure hope i didnt find a bug or its to do with some firmware setting not compatible and i caused some majors problems.

I plan to do the wireless project as this VLCD5 display is so basic - it does not even show the watts consumed and now i dislike it even more thanks to this reset problem.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Elinx]

.....
I used the settings for 48v motor and 36v battery which is what I have. I set the throttle to available to use and MPH as my preference and display control the speed limit.......

One thing i did notice was the display battery level dropped from 4 bars to 1 bar.......

So now i wonder should i flash the motor again or have i fried the controller? its 100% to do with me going into the VLCD5 display and changing it that stopped it all working. I'm now recharging the battery and will test it again but i dont think its a battery problem.....

If the tsdz2 runs, it isn't possible that the controller is fried.

If you did something wrong with the settings on display. Power off and on to get the default settings back. (as long as you didn't set L0-E04, which is "save recent settings")

About the speed it could be that the current and power limit is too low for a 36V battery with 48V motor.
Realize also that the default mode, without changes, is streetmode at startup.

For battery bars drop. If you set 10S and didn't change the bar values, it should be OK, but I don't know what happens with the Voltage with a high current load. Maybe you can see the battery leds too under load.

 

[Carlo772]

Spent some time looking at this non working tsdz2 48v motor today with a 36v battery that i was able to take out for a 1 hour first ride before it stopped working yesterday. See the the previous email above about flashing it and my first ride.

I read again all the setup documents and the java program settings that I chose.

In the saved software config I notice that I set the battery current max amp (A) to 16amps. I think what I must have done is read that the wrong way around. The docs says Maximum recommended value 12 A for 48 V motor, 16 A for a 36 V motor.

So I should have chosen 12amps for a 48v motor and that is a quite a bit less.

The battery power max I chose was 650 watts. It seems reasonable as i know this motor goes up to 750 watt version. The documentation does not have any recommended value so I had to guess.

So then when i was out cycling for the first time and disappointed with the speed of the tsdz2. So i got off the bike and went into the display for the first time setting and saw it was already at 40 mph max speed so no speed restriction. Kind of disappointed as i would have thought the motor could go a bit faster.

In flashing the firmware on the first time i checked off the street mode at start and had it set to the display sets speed. I think on cycling though the settings menu I saw the amps screen and set that two amps higher to 18amps.

I know its ok to add just a little amps from my Bafang 250 watt motor firmware use and I did recall reading that the max was 18 amps so thought that would probably speed up the motor and probably quite safe to do. I did accidently cycle through the vlcd5 menu and it changed from mph to km display settings. After that it did not work and the battery dropped to one bar and the throttle stopped. I never rode the bike with a working motor after that change and i turned the display back on.

I charged the battery today and plugged it in fresh but the problem is the same. So its not a flat battery. There is no factory reset for the VLCD5 display.

So then I wondered does the motor work at all? I can test it by trying to flash the firmware again as i need to set the battery max current amps to 12 anyhow.

Connected it all up with the cables again and pressed the button to flash and found that the java software could not connect to the motor with communication error. So now I think its possible that I fried the controller with too much amps ? Its also possible that its the cables are not connecting as they are very fiddley but it looks like they are well seated.

At least a replacement controller is not expensive if i did fry it.

Thanks for your help and advice.

 

[Elinx]

....

In the saved software config I notice that I set the battery current max amp (A) to 16amps. I think what I must have done is read that the wrong way around. The docs says Maximum recommended value 12 A for 48 V motor, 16 A for a 36 V motor.

So I should have chosen 12amps for a 48v motor and that is a quite a bit less.

The battery power max I chose was 650 watts. It seems reasonable as i know this motor goes up to 750 watt version. .....

... I think on cycling though the settings menu I saw the amps screen and set that two amps higher to 18amps. ...

So then I wondered does the motor work at all? I can test it by trying to flash the firmware again as i need to set the battery max current amps to 12 anyhow. ....

max. Amp 12 A means max. power of 12*42= 500W with full 36V battery.
So you never will reach 650W, but most of the time you can get about max. 430W (12*36)

I don't know why you think you have changed the Amp. setting on display to 18A, because there is no Amp. setting for OSF on stock display. All setting are done with the Java configurator, besides the speed, if you had flagged that.

FYI: The controller can't give more than 18A. That is hardware coded. Above this, the protection circuit switch the power off.

I don't know what is happened. Normally flashing the controller should not give a problem.
What you describe looks that the controller does work. You can switch the motor on with display and can read the percents of the batterycapacity and the bars, but you can't flash the controller anymore. If the controller was fried, the display didn't give values.

Is there some error if you switch on the vlcd5?

I ask, because if one of the sensors (PAS, Torque, speed) don't work or is defective, the motor will not run. In that case you can try to run it with L4-E04 "assist with sensor error"
From these sensors, the speed sensor is the most common reason if the distance of the spokemagnet is to close to the sensor. (advice is about 10mm)
.

 

[Carlo772]

Thanks for the reply.

How do you do this L4-E04 "assist with sensor error" setup so I can test it? I googles L4-E04 and did not get any hits.

I don't get any error code on the VLCD5 display. Only one bar of battery and the throttle does not work and motor assist does nothing. I can press the buttons to change the assist levels. When cycling there is no speed indication. The magnet and sensor are attached and when i first rode the bike the sensor was too close and adjusted that. But it cant be the speed sensor as suddenly the throttle stopped working.

I can only press up/down for the assist and that changes. The menus can be cycled but the metrics do not change.

I get the current distance travelled from the odometer and other values but nothing is changing on the display. Where is this data stored for trip distance? in the controller or in the display computer VLCD5 ?

I checked the three wires with connectors for the USB STlinkv2 to flash and they seem fine. I tried again to flash the motor and got the same no connection made error message.

I did some reading online and there are other tsdz2 owners found the pedelecs forum with similar problem i have that battery shows one bar but battery is full. One user has a VLCD6 display and there was a loose wire. Another owner that has a VLCD5 expressed that they have the same problem but the thread goes silent about the solution. Some are checking the battery voltage with a multi meter. I have a multimeter but so far didnt check the power as i dont know what the volt levels values they should be.

My gut feeling is the controller is the problem as that was working before when flashing. Its unlikly the VLCD5 is causing the problem as that is not involved with the flashing.

I think my next steps would be to replace the controller. On Ali express there is a 36v and 48v 6pin and 8pin version.
What kind of controller would i need for a 48v tsdz2 with throttle version?

I have been looking at batteries and considering buying now a 52v and it will just fix the problem but it probably wishful thinking as i would need to flash the firmware with the new battery settings and I cant get as far a flashing this controller to set it to use a 52v battery.

 

[Elinx]

...
How do you do this L4-E04 "assist with sensor error" setup so I can test it?.....
I don't get any error code on the VLCD5 display. Only one bar of battery and the throttle does not work and motor assist does nothing. I,,,,When cycling there is no speed indication. .....
.....
replace the controller. On Ali express there is a 36v and 48v 6pin and 8pin version.
What kind of controller would i need for a 48v tsdz2 with throttle version?

..... I cant get as far a flashing this controller to set it to use a 52v battery.

From your answers about L4-E04 and before with the "changed" amps on display, I understand you haven't read or understand the OSF display manual which is in the directory "Manuals" with the download of OSF.

If you have enabled in Java configurator "Lights" on first tab and Mode 3 =10 on second tab it is possible to run the motor if some sensor doesn't work, which give an error. This is done on display in level 4 with E04 ( 6 pushes on "light" button)

If there is no speed reading and no odo, then it could be there is no speed pulse from the sensor. but....
If you have enabled ODO compensation inside java configurator.
If you switch the vlcd5 on, you read the capacity percentage from the battery (Full, the speed is showing a short time 99.9)
Then if you go biking the speed stays zero for a minute or so, which depends of your speed, the odo too, till the 99.9 is compensated. After this you see speed and odo.

If you want to buy another controller
All controllers have the same hardware , the 36V and 48V is set inside firmware, only difference is 6 or 8 pin.
If you have a throttle then you should have an 8 pin now too. Please check this.

You have already setup 48V motor. In that case you only need to flash again for 52V to get a right battery indication on display. That is now setup for 36V. For running the motor it isn't neccesary to flash again.

Some thoughts:
I was thinking about the one bar with full battery, full "36V" is 42V which is almost emty "48V"battery, so one bar.
Are your sure about the battery setting 10S?
What percentage does the vlcd5 give with startup?

Maybe a weird thought, but are your sure you have flashed OSF? Did you see the long rolling black CMD screen, SDCC Compile and ST-Link Programming without errors?
I ask because you mentioned before the flash was surprising fast
Also the Amp setting you did in the first place on vlcd5, is with stock firmware
What happens if you go to hidden menu TE-1 and TE-2. Do you see some value like 75 or other than zero?

 

[theflyingjaguar]

Hi there. I have broken my 48v motor ealry august with the v20.1.3NEW firmware. I finally have some time to repair it.
I've read that it is probably the mosfets that will be dead. Since I don't have a crank remover with me at the time, I cannot open up the motor for the moment, I would like to know what are the mosfets models that I need to order

Thanks a lot

 

[Elinx]

.... what are the mosfets models that I need to order
....

K80E08K3 Toshiba Mosfets
• mosfet N
• Max drain−source voltage: 75V
• RDS (ON) = 7.5 mΩ

source

 

[Carlo772]

So after having problems with not being able to flash the motor with the Stlinkv2 to set the 52v battery settings. I waited a few weeks and finally a new 48v 8 pin controller arrived for my 48v motor and VLCD5 display. It took an afternoon to open the motor and replace it. Not hard to do but time consuming.

I was able to flash the motor and go out on a long bike ride. I did notice an Error message that appeared at first E02 just after i start the display which I read it could be a hall sensor or short circuit? But this only happened a few times and its not shown again.

I used the bike for a few long rides with a 52v battery and really like it compared to the 250watt Bafang BBS01b with open source software update. Its not quite as accelerating but more than makes up for it with the torque feeling of pedalling where your effort is not a frustration like it is on the Bafang. Its really nice off road in the woods and i feel much safer on it off road. I am very happy switching over for this ride feel. I can eventually get up to the same top speed as the Bafang 23 mph and use a throttle to hold it at that speed so i dont see any point to use the Bafang. (but at least Bafang is simple to install, flash and is reliable)

After a few long rides (65 miles done total) over a few days after about 10 miles i got down to 2 bars left I got error message E08 which i lookup and find its about low battery alarm. So something about my battery settings. I am near home so overnight I recharged the battery to 100% which should make this E08 problem go away. The bars show full on the display but after about 30 seconds riding the display shows E08 and the motor stops assistance and the throttle stops working. If I turn the display off and reset then I can use the motor again for about 30 seconds or about 6 to 8 pedals or so and then E08 message and no motor use. Very frustrating. This E08 problem does not go away.

I thought maybe i set the battery level incorrect on flashing for it to work out the correct readings. This battery is a new 52v 16 AH Samsung. So did i flash the motor with the wrong settings? I went back to the software and opened it to see what the setting are. To my surprise it seems the wrong settings it shows are 10 cells for 52v battery. So then i go back and try to flash the motor with the correct settings that i researched which also show if you hover over the cells field that gives hint what number to put it for 52v should be 14. I am sure i set this correct when i flashed the motor.

The other setting was the battery voltage cut-off it shows 29v. I don't think I calculated that at all and used the default (it worked when i was able to first flash it and ride) and so researched and found my cells are type 18650 so it should be 3v x 14 = 42v cut off.

I hook up the three cables and the motor wont flash. Its like i have the same problem as the first broken controller where it wont communicate with the motor when the three wires are connected.

But i figure out some useful things which i want to share in quick summary:
1) Software is buggy on recording settings. Do not trust the history for what you see for past flash runs.
2) The StLinkv2 with comms problem can be used without 5v cable and this will fix the communication problem. (i think as there is no error message in the logs and it looks good flash run and the display notices the impact of flashing)

Buggy Software
What i noticed is there is a bug in the java software. It records your previous settings in the top right as a list with date that you can click on. If you use up/down arrows it does not update the display. You have to click on the flash run to load the settings. Not all the settings will load. It does not keep the battery settings. The cells show 10 but it should be 14. I did runs where i flashed with 14 and it does not show.

I wonder if the software is even picking up the battery settings and flashing the motor with the correct settings? It seems to save the wheel size correctly in the left panel is remembered.

ST Link flash problem
I actually bought another controller (my third) as the delivery time from China takes so long as I got impatient so ordered another with fast shipping from Germany a few weeks ago while waiting. AliExpress really sucks as it holds the item for a week before shipping and uses slow shipping. AliExpress from Germany finally shipped but it still hasn't arrived in the short shipping time they promised.

I do more reading on the forum as I think maybe it was never the controller that was faulting and it is the USB Stlinkv2 that has the comms problem as really it cant be two controllers in a row that failed. So unlikely. I read that some ST Link v2 clones can have problems if you have the battery power on and connected and it makes it look like the controller works but it doesn't. The doc says this about the problem:


Step 4. Disconnect your battery before connecting. At least some ST Link clones will be damaged otherwise and will then appear to work, but will not connect.

So I ordered a new STLink v2 clone replacement. It has not arrived yet as shipping is slow. Why does everything have to come from China. In the UK its really hard to get electronic components quickly or cheaply. Anyhow with some more reading and lateral thinking i wondered how was i able to flash the motor on the second replacement controller if the STLinkv2 was supposedly fried since that was probably my first problem that prompted me to buy a replacement controller?

I think this was the root of my problem all along. I probably missed this step with the fiddly cables not working and left the battery on and half fried the usb st link? Or maybe on the second controller the 5v cable did not connect fully and allowed the flash to happen.

So i hooked up the STlink cables and left out the 5v connection cable and turned the battery and display on and the logs show that I was able to flash the motor. Well that is some useful info to know. Now it appears that i can flash the motor and not need to wait for a replacement STlinkv2 or use a third controller.


Flashing the motor with the right battery settings
In the software I put in new battery settings and flash the motor but was not able to get past the E08 problem. I tried with my 52v battery and 36v battery. Both after 30 seconds of motor use show E08 and stops use of motor. Same problem with a 36v battery also has this E08 message. Maybe its a more serious problem.

Battery 52v:
52v 16AH 14S -5p
Using authentic Samsung 3200MAH 18650 cells
Installed with A 45AMP BMS FOR UPTO 1500W OF CONSTANT POWER

Battery 36v:
36v 19.2AH LG brand I assume 10 cells.

I put screen shots of the Java app that I used to flash the motor. Maybe someone here can figure out what settings I should put in to get this motor to work with these batteries or have some advice for me on how to get this motor working. I only changed the settings on the first screen and not changed the second or third screen.

What should i be putting in to get these batteries to work with this motor so i don't have this E08 error?

52v flash settings:
Screen 1: https://ibb.co/SdN9Rrh
Screen 2: https://ibb.co/WDx15JS
Screen 3: https://ibb.co/3Y4hHcz

36v flash settings:
Screen 1: https://ibb.co/nzX4Typ
Screen 2: https://ibb.co/h9ypBKz
Screen 3: https://ibb.co/k0BKTnX

If you want i can do a video of me flashing it, and then what the display shows when it turns on after running the throttle for 30 seconds to show the E08 error.

I really hope i don't have a broken motor and have to replace the whole unit. At least the motor is not that expensive.

Thanks
Carlo

 

[mbrusa]

You probably have another version's manual.
With v20.1C.1
E08 - ERROR_SPEED_SENSOR
Faulty speed sensor or magnet too far away.

I checked the Java configurator, there are no problems, I would have noticed.
Pay attention to the "Experimental setting" list, when you open the configurator the most recent file is the last one in the list, while the one currently compiled is the first.
But if you close and reopen the configurator is at the end, it's easy to get confused.
A tip, delete all the files in the "experimental setting" folder, make your settings and compile, it is not necessary to connect st-link to the motor.
Click on the file in the "Experimental setting" list and check if the settings are correct.
Move the file from "experimental setting" folder into "proven settings" and rename it, eg "My_settings.ini", it will be easier to find.

 

[Carlo772]

Hi mbrusa,

Thanks you were right. i am a noob.

I adjusted the speed sensor and all is well. Good to know that error code 2 is torque sensor and not short circuit. I don't get that any more as i turn the display on and not sit on the bike/pedals so nothing interfering with the start-up process.

When I was out riding and the error happened I reached for my phone and googled tsdz2 and the error code. I didn't know you remapped the error codes from the stock. Reading the new display pdf manual on my pc in the project dir has all the details.

I noticed that when i first turn the motor on it shows a speed something like 64 mph and then after a few seconds changes to 0. I wonder if that is meant to be some kind of code or is it just turning on and false reading and is about to reset to 0 so you know its ready to use?

It would be great to have a short 1 min youtube video to show how you cycle through the E02 parameter modes. I read the pdf and then head outside few hours later and turn the bike on and then i have forgotten how to do it so just ride the bike with the default settings which i find to be very good. Its hard to remember the steps when you didn't try the other settings.

I now copy pasted the pdf manual doc and emailed the text so i can try when i am with the bike.

Thanks
Carlo

 

[mbrusa]

Well, the important thing is to solve.

When the display is turned on, a data selected in the configurator is displayed for 5 seconds.
Available data: None = no data, Soc% = residual battery percentage (default), Volts = battery voltage.
The displayed data also serves as a reference for the waiting time before putting your feet on the pedals.

The % automatically resets to 99.9 with fully charged battery.

 

[StuA]

Hi, if you set your display to mph, the full SOC at 99.9% will show as 62.4 due to mph to mph conversion factor of 5/8.

 

[mbrusa]

What version are you using?
Data conversion is foreseen with the latest versions.
For this to work, mph must be set on both the display and in the Java configurator

 

[Hangman]

More on "Ghost pedalling".
On a recent ride I was climbing a hill in full power in my preferred eMTB mode and near the top the motor continued to run when I stopped pedalling albeit with moderate power.
In a previous post I described this happening twice before in "hybrid" mode and not having it happen in eMTB mode I blamed this on a bug in hybrid mode.
Switching off (disconnecting the battery) and on again it all worked ok again until nearing home the motor remained in one power level and became unresponsive to me changing level.
The next morning the motor would not provide any power on startup and the lights-on button did not show the usual E02 prompt to switch out of "street mode".
I removed the motor cover and fiddled with the two connectors and found on reassembly it all worked ok again. The following day the motor remained in level 2 and again became unresponsive to changing level. As an experiment I flashed back to stock settings and went for a ride. Initially ok but then the power became intermittent.
I tweeked the pins on the connector from the torque sensor and now it all works ok again! I re-flashed back to the OSF. Everything now seems sorted.
So, for me, this "ghost pedalling" issue was not a problem with the OSF at all! It was simply an intermittent signal from the torque sensor!
If anyone else has this issue I thoroughly recommend checking this small two pin connector before assuming a fault with the firmware.

 

[Goody5]

I’ll give that a try, my wife’s bike often runs without pedalling and I was about to change the controller to see if that was the problem. But will clean the torque connector first to see if that makes a difference. I also get an error 02 sometimes (torque sensor error) so hopefully all the same problem.

 

[itscomplicated]

Hello all you great bright people out there!
I have a specific question for you

I recently bought a TSDZ2 with 250w36v
according to the law in order for an ebike to be legal to drive in bike lanes the motor should be no more powerful that 250w and have a maximum speed of 25kmh.
well all seemed OK, until I learned later that it is easily possible to switch that limit off in some menu option in VLCD5.
I don't want this, this would put me in some grey zone and would make things legally complicated. Is there a way to hack this thing off? I want to make it impossible to switch off the 25km limiter directly from the display..
How can I do this? I know its possible because I know some people have the same display(VLCD5) but trying to switch off the speed limiter there doesn't do anything and the motor still cuts off at 25kmh point.
how can this be done? I know about custom firmwares but I don't know whether its possible to hard code the 25kmh limiter there or whether it is a display issue and I simply need to buy another one?

Please help

 

[Elinx]

...
according to the law in order for an ebike to be legal to drive in bike lanes the motor should be no more powerful that 250w and have a maximum speed of 25kmh.....

It is possible to disable streetmode on tab 2 of the configurator.
Also you can insert exact the same power and speed values for offroad and streetmode.

But.........
Your tsdz2 is and stays a motor with 250W contnue power. That is the only regulation which is mentioned in the law.
The power you can change is the max. possible power. That value is not mentioned.
Most 250W motors, like Bosch, Bafang, Brose etc. could easyly power up to 700W and more for a short time.
The 36V tsdz2 max power is about 500W, but if you run this power for a long time, without cooling mods, I can ensure you that it will be very hot inside, which has consequenses for the stator.

You can see Continue power as a theoretical value, indicating the size of the engine, which only can be measured under special conditions with specific equipment, because the rise of the temperature must be measured over a certain time.

Much more important is the max speed of exact 25km/h.
Above this value the motor assist must be zero. That is easy to measure with a rollerbench.
Some ebike engines lower for that reason the assistlevel already from 23km/h to prevent feeling a wall of resistance if the assist stops completely.

NB.
Germany, has indeed a strict enforcement for ebikes.
I don't know where you ordered the tsdz2, but the controller boards inside engines of the German Enerprof are not flashable.
If that is the case you don't have to worry about that problem.

 

[abrahad]

I am attempting to get to grips with the process of compiling v20.1C.1 of the firmware on Linux. I have carefully followed the steps from https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/wiki/OS-X-and-Linux-installation .

When I try a build the compiler aborts with *** buffer overflow detected *** . This appears to be whilst compiling ebike_app.c.

Any suggestions?

 

[mbrusa]

Did you follow this tip?
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/issues/11#issuecomment-888784751

 

[abrahad]

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately that version of the sdcc snapshot is no longer available as far as I can see. I tried a couple of the other snapshots but these give errors that my version of glibc is not compatible with sdcc. From what I can read, it is not a simple matter to change the version of glibc.

I'm thinking that maybe I will try to use Windows to compile the .ihx file then copy this to my Linux laptop to flash the controller. Next problem is get a the "make" command on Windows. Maybe tomorrow!

 

[abrahad]

Ok. I think I'm getting there after a few hours looking at ways to install the "make" command on Windows I find I don't need it! Clicking on "Compile & Flash" in the JavaConfigurator under Windows generates a new .ihx file which I presume is all I need.

Next step is to try and flash the motor but I will leave that until I have a few miles on the clock then I can judge the difference.

I have now flashed with OSF 20.1c and am impressed with the improvement. I tried today to use the VLCD5 display to change some parameters but cannot figure out how to do this. For example, LEVEL 0/E02 should enable/disable SET PARAMETER. How do I change this setting to enable SET PARAMETER? Is it with the +/- button whilst the display is flashing? Can't seem to get this to work.

Do I need to use the configurator and tick "Set parameter on startup" then re-flash?