But you could use external reduction gear to make it a great hill climber at half of that speed.docnjoj said:Hey Brett1 Who wants to go 50 mph on an Ebike?
otherDoc
But you could use external reduction gear to make it a great hill climber at half of that speed.docnjoj said:Hey Brett1 Who wants to go 50 mph on an Ebike?
otherDoc
2.3 A is very reasonable for no-load 2389 rpm (637 Hz) due to high iron loss and moderate mechanical loss.solarbbq2003 said:interesting: no load forward is 2.3amps, very high really ( maybe i have forward direction wrong) maybe the gears using up some amps, mayb hall sensor board not in correct position, can lower amps a bit moving the hall sensor board)
solarbbq2003 said:using dsp switch: reverse is 1152rpm
no load reverse about 1amp
The negative of the 24 battery should be connected to the negative of the power supply.solarbbq2003 said:To run the circuits from a separate power supply to the fets, say just run the board on 24v battery, where would I connect the negative wire to??
Should not be a problem if it is not higher than 72 V and running for no more than a few minutes.solarbbq2003 said:can do some higher voltage tests then without worrying too much about damaging the low volt circuits
The7 said:solarbbq2003 said:using dsp switch: reverse is 1152rpm
no load reverse about 1amp
1152 rpm (reverse) is approximately half of 2389 rpm (forward).
It does show that V2 has been designed with a lower reverse speed when using dsp switch.
However, the exact ratio should be tested with Crystalyte motors.
solarbbq2003 said:I'll work out wiring for other direction and see what no load is, sensors are place not in centre of the coil poles, pretty sure I have it running backwards.
Connect the battery negative to the negative terminal of the separate power supply.solarbbq2003 said:With running the board on separate power supply I mean physically on the board where would I connect negative battery terminal to? there are a couple of earth pins where the throttle/hall sensors etc connect to...?
Sounds right. But there are still iron paths for the magnetised flux.solarbbq2003 said:So in theory a hallbach array type motor with no iron core could go to higher rpm without same losses as an iron core motor??
The FET control has definitely changed in Ver. 2. I think the pinout of the MMBT5401 might not work. The lone "center" pin of the SMD transistor package is connected to the gate of the FET. This should be the PNP emitter. The lower right pin of the SMD transistor is connected to the source lead of the FET so this should be the PNP collector. Thus, the collector and emitter pins appear to be swapped, compared to the MMBT5401fechter said:OK, T5 looks like a PNP high side driver. On the analog controller, this is a 2n5401.
The surface mount version of this is a MMBT5401: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MM/MMBT5401.pdf
You can get it from DigiKey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=MMBT5401FSCT-ND $0.14ea.
rkosiorek said:the locations of the Hall Sensors in the 2 BMC geared motors i have diassembled are identical to that in the photo posted by Brett. they are not in the slot but instead are over the edge of the coil.
i wonder which location giveds the best performance? centered in the slot or over the edge of the coil?
rick
Please read the posts:dirty_d said:one thing im curious about, how does the magnetic field from the stator teeth not interfere with the hall sensors? as far as spacing, i don't think it matters if they are exactly in the center of a stator pole or exactly between two stator poles as long as they are separated by 120 electrical degrees. changing the location between the two would just require the wiring to be changed, but it would still be neutrally timed.
solarbbq2003 said:with regards to connecting up separate low voltage power supply for the board, would the connect as shown in the pic below work? ( the battery symbol in pic i might have it back to front but I put a plus and minus sign to clarify).
I am greatly impressed by your experiments.solarbbq2003 said:pic trying to show what happens as sensor location is moved, the point in middle of stator poles just on either side get reversal in motor direction, sweet spots where motor runs smooth and quiet shown, where fechters pic has hall sensor, just on either side of the middle motor will run but is a quick direction change just on either side of the middle, but motor not running as well as on the sweet spots. Very noticeable when your on the sweet spot, motor runs optimally, can hear some noise in motor and change in rpm and amps if not on sweet spots.
dirty_d said:is it possible that the sweet spot being off center is due to the fact that the MCU on the controller has a slight delay, so if the hall sensors are in the center the commutation doesn't happen until after the magnets pass the point where the next commutation step should have occured? by placing them off center it would make up for the delay. just a theory.
guessing that the diameter rotor where the magnets are is 10", at 300rpm the magnets move 1" in 6 milliseconds, the hall sensor looks like its about 1/8" off center, so it takes 750 microseconds for the magnets to move 1/8", 750 microseconds seems like a long long time for an MCU, so maybe this isn't the reason for the off center sweet spot.
calinb said:The FET control has definitely changed in Ver. 2. I think the pinout of the MMBT5401 might not work. The lone "center" pin of the SMD transistor package is connected to the gate of the FET. This should be the PNP emitter. The lower right pin of the SMD transistor is connected to the source lead of the FET so this should be the PNP collector. Thus, the collector and emitter pins appear to be swapped, compared to the MMBT5401fechter said:OK, T5 looks like a PNP high side driver. On the analog controller, this is a 2n5401.
The surface mount version of this is a MMBT5401: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MM/MMBT5401.pdf
You can get it from DigiKey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=MMBT5401FSCT-ND $0.14ea.
There's also a 2nd BHD 1F transistor in the circuit (also with BHD 1F markings). I haven't attempted to create a schematic. It's blown on my board too--along with the BJD 1I transistor so I need to replace all three of them.
I could just buy some 2N5551 and 2N5401 transistors in a TO-92 package and solder them to the board's SMD device pads. An NTE288 crosses to the 2N5401 and an NTE194 crosses to the 2N5551. They are available locally.
Has anyone managed to successfully replace any of the gate transistors and get their controller working again?
Thanks,
-Cal