Voicecoils's 2nd build: Giant DH Team

Drunkskunk said:
keep them half dead and Stick them in the fridge. They only lose 2% capacity a year at nominal and 32 degrees F
Click to expand...

So half discharged then refrigerate or freeze them? Probably not the best idea for any packs with integrated BMS. Would be hard to keep moisture out...

Interesting to know though...
 
I tried that with both my Lithium Manganese pack and my Lipos - whenever I could. I used to charge the batteries then stick them in the fridge.

To tell you the truth I think the temperature cycling made it worse not better.


Keeping them in the fridge doesn't work for a battery that's mounted to the bike, or one that needs to sit on the charger all night to balance.
 
Mark_A_W said:
I tried that with both my Lithium Manganese pack and my Lipos - whenever I could. I used to charge the batteries then stick them in the fridge.

To tell you the truth I think the temperature cycling made it worse not better.


Keeping them in the fridge doesn't work for a battery that's mounted to the bike, or one that needs to sit on the charger all night to balance.
Click to expand...


You should leave it half charged (3.7Volt for Lipo) if you store it...not full charge ;)

Robin
 
Almasi said:
Mark_A_W said:
I tried that with both my Lithium Manganese pack and my Lipos - whenever I could. I used to charge the batteries then stick them in the fridge.

To tell you the truth I think the temperature cycling made it worse not better.


Keeping them in the fridge doesn't work for a battery that's mounted to the bike, or one that needs to sit on the charger all night to balance.
Click to expand...


You should leave it half charged (3.7Volt for Lipo) if you store it...not full charge ;)

Robin
Click to expand...


And how does one do that when the bike is used for commuting?
 
Mark_A_W said:
Bit of both, but they basically die in a year or a year and a half sitting on the shelf.


All my bike and plane lipos are dead now.
Click to expand...

I have lipos that are 5 years old and still work fine. I even store mine at full charge sometimes with good success. I have heard of various experiences, though. It seems like everyone is different. The best thing is not to let them sit more than a few months at a time. If you do, it is best to be easy on them for a few cycles untill they "Wake Up". After that, they are fine.

The only problem I have had with storage is if they are stored for vary long peroids without any cycling. But, that normally takes about 3 years in my case. I have found, if they are cycled regularly, lipos last a loooong time.

Again, people all have different experiences with various chemistries.

Matt
 
Almasi said:
voicecoils said:
Swingarm's back from Kurt and a backup frame both arrived today 8)

View attachment 2
Click to expand...

You are sick if you have a frame like that just for backup :D But it make sense if your ride it like it should :twisted:
Click to expand...

It was very cheap, I couldn't turn it down. If the 2004 DH Team holds up after ~6 months of running (and I predict I won't need the DH Comp 150mm swingarm if the DH Team one snaps) then I might look to turning the DH Comp into a beasty RC motor powered bike. :twisted: Matts drive and Dave's motors should be mature and in operation by then.
 
recumpence said:
Mark_A_W said:
Bit of both, but they basically die in a year or a year and a half sitting on the shelf.


All my bike and plane lipos are dead now.
Click to expand...

I have lipos that are 5 years old and still work fine. I even store mine at full charge sometimes with good success. I have heard of various experiences, though. It seems like everyone is different. The best thing is not to let them sit more than a few months at a time. If you do, it is best to be easy on them for a few cycles untill they "Wake Up". After that, they are fine.

The only problem I have had with storage is if they are stored for vary long peroids without any cycling. But, that normally takes about 3 years in my case. I have found, if they are cycled regularly, lipos last a loooong time.

Again, people all have different experiences with various chemistries.

Matt
Click to expand...

Well....I wager you paid for quality ones.

Mine were mostly el cheapo.

Interestingly, the one that wasn't cheap ($65) went first - but it copped abuse in a plane.
 
Most packs I have run are Thunder Power, Tanic, and MaxAmps. I typically run 25C packs. That way I can pull 10C from them with little voltage drop.

My recumbent has 10C cells (10C continuous, 15C burst).

My newest build will use 25C cells. That pack is a 4.4 AH 48 volt pack. It is only 3 pounds and should be good for about 10 miles of cruising or 5 miles of hammering!

As a side note, I have a cell ballancer. However, in MANY packs (maybe 40 packs?) I have never had one ever go out of ballance. This is one thing I love about LiPo. No matter how many cycles I put them through, I have never has one go out of ballance even the tiniest bit.

Matt

Anyway, do not mean to hijack this thread. Back on topic.
 
No worries.

I'm waiting on my 5 speed cluster to arrive so I can make final decisions on spacing, which will affect how the wheel will be dished when built so it's aligned correctly in the swingarm.

Looks like with the 5 speed I will have enough room to space out my disk so the caliper clears the motor casing. I'll need to make a 'C' shaped washer to fit on the disk side where the wires exit. This is needed so the disk and the bolts that bolt it on clear the frame and are free to rotate.

I've got someone lined up to build me a battery enclosure for the frame and swap out my buggered bearings in the frame pivot points for the new bearing kit I got.
 
Or you could just buy bearings from a bearing store.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Or you could just buy bearings from a bearing store.
Click to expand...

Yep. Get the outer and inner diameter measurements and sidewall readings off the set on the bike first.

I'm re-thinking whether to swap my bearings now. Most are running rough but there is no lateral play in them and the side casings that seal them in seem fine. For the suspension action, the amount of motion seen in the bearings is rather small.

With my swingarm off today I got the largest socket head that would fit on the bearing body and tried to bash one out (after removing the circlips). It would not budge at all. So, having them pop out easy is not a given. A proper bearing puller and press may be required...
 
If you ring up a bearing shop and read out the numbers on the seal and perhaps have a vernier handy at the time to back it up with some dimensions.99% of the time you will save a lot of money over oem bearing.

That said I felt the bearings in your swing arm.They are shot to the point if they were on a electric motor or some kind of high rpm application or where they needed to hold tight tolerances replacing them would be a must but like you said all they are doing is rotating maybe 30 deg and would function fine for 20 years without you noticing any difference while riding the bike. Bearings in a aluminium housings can be a bitch to get out. If I new you wanted them out I could have pressed them out for you in a hydrologic press.

Kurt
 
Cheers Kurt.

I've installed the swingarm back on the frame with the original bearings in it. It all fit together fine. There's no lateral play anywhere so I'm gonna stick with them for the time being.

I got the bearing kit after I sent the swingarm to you so it's probably good that they didn't get pressed out. I think it's a very tight fit (maybe more so from dirt and grime) and in addition the side they press out of has a 'lip' that holds the circlips in place. The bearings can pass past the lip of course, but it would be quite easy to destroy the lip trying to press bearings back in place.

The hydraulic press probably would have worked a treat on getting them out, but I could have made a big mess out of the frame putting the new ones back in :shock:

I'm really happy with how the swingarm came out. Can't thank you enough Kurt! I'm even thinking now that I should get the whole frame re-sprayed or powder coated since those plates look so nice and shiny :p Hopefully some point down the track once the bike is actually functioning. The frame will be getting a battery box made for it quite soon. I've got a basic idea of how much to dish the rim on the X5 but stupidly I don't have a tool to get the 8speed cluster back off the damn X5. I tried two shimano tools, one has a pin that can't go past the axle, the other has a hex nut pattern on the top that prevents the tool from getting down into the cluster to turn it off. Bugger. I'll figure something out though. The 5speed cluster should arrive this week.

I've cut a slot in the derailleur hanger to match the dropouts so it's all ready to have the X5 dropped in once it's laced up :)
 
I have a tool that will work Abraham.

It's a B-B cluster tool from Torpedo7 that was turned down to fit into the shimano threaded freewheel. No pin either.
 
Mini update:

New parts:
spokes for 24" rim
fat spoke tool
5 speed cluster
axle nuts and split washers


battery boxes:
The frame is with the Engine Whisperer (http://www.enginewhisperer.com) who will be making a battery enclosure. It will be quite a tight fit on the frame. They do fit but will need to be packaged and held in securely. Having seen the work he does, I'm confident he'll come up with a good solution.
 
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