Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Of course I also connected the hal connection directly to the motor. There is an anti theft connector, can that just be skipped? If it isn’t connected properly would it allow your display to come on but not allow the motor to run?


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AlanL said:
Of course I also connected the hal connection directly to the motor. There is an anti theft connector, can that just be skipped? If it isn’t connected properly would it allow your display to come on but not allow the motor to run?


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So I have no display plugged in just my key switch/throttle assembly. Red to red. Green to green. Black to black. My key switch has two wires. Blue and yellow. Blue I went to gray/purple which is the ELock and yellow I went straight to battery +. I do not have the anti theft harness plugged in at all.

Other than that my hall sensor is plugged in and the 3 large phase wires. Mine is different though as my controller was pre-programmed by QS before they shipped it. Here is how my phase wires are hooked up.
 

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Thank you, I have the same controller from QS which is also pre programmed. I just got the kit that includes the screen and wiring harness as well. It sounds like i have the same things hooked up as you do. I wonder if theres some kind of test i can do to find out why the motor isn’t working.

Can you tell me what happens on the throttle wires when you engage it so i can see if i get the same thing coming out of the throttle to the controller?

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AlanL said:
Thank you, I have the same controller from QS which is also pre programmed. I just got the kit that includes the screen and wiring harness as well. It sounds like i have the same things hooked up as you do. I wonder if theres some kind of test i can do to find out why the motor isn’t working.

Can you tell me what happens on the throttle wires when you engage it so i can see if i get the same thing coming out of the throttle to the controller?

ecf83365765be0085793fc0de664df85.jpg

You bet. I should be able to tomorrow when I’m back at my shop. Below is the throttle I have. I’m also using a hub drive 3000w V4 motor but connections should all be the same.
 

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I want to connect a 3 speed switch to my Votol EM-150 controller. I am using a 72v 30AH battery. The QS rep said to Make sure your battery can discharge more than 150A. How can I check this? My kit didn’t come with a 3 speed switch so I ordered one. Is it ok to connect it? My motor is a 3000w v4 hub motor for an electric scooter conversion. Thanks!
 
MDG said:
Wanting to ask another question, I bought my motor and controller kit directly from QS and was told the motor was programmed to the controller already. Everything powers up and works fine but curious if they just set it on like the lowest setting for outputs? Is it worth it for me to download the programming software and check my current settings? It came with the USB data cable but I haven’t downloaded or done any setting stuff.

Yes, you should get the debugging software and connect it and save the original configuration file and don’t modify it so you always have something to go back to.

If you bought it preconfigured and gave detailed specs of your battery then it should run. But if they don’t know your battery voltage that might be set too high or too low and your motor wont run or might cut out such as using 60v battery with settings for 72v.

The motor phase wires should be color matched to the controller terminals, since thats how it should have been when then paired the controller to it.

Many settings may be set conservative because only the end user knows what is good for his vehicle. The type of regen, the amount of regen.

The port settings should match the default wiring schematic. But you might need to change some to match your vehicle. 3-speed switch or jog button need specific port settings.

Speed signal to the display is either hall simulation (for basic display) or one-line (YXT) if your display is designed for that, in which case it shows speed selection (1-2-3), eABS activated, motor fault, throttle fault,etc. The port settings as well as controller settings should both be set to hall or YXT.

Throttle release regen is also set base on end user’s preference. I don’t like it so its off in my settings, and my brake lever sensors turn on regen.

Once you connect your pc to the controller you can post screenshots of all the settings and we can see if anything looks wrong.
 
MDG said:
I want to connect a 3 speed switch to my Votol EM-150 controller. I am using a 72v 30AH battery. The QS rep said to Make sure your battery can discharge more than 150A. How can I check this? My kit didn’t come with a 3 speed switch so I ordered one. Is it ok to connect it? My motor is a 3000w v4 hub motor for an electric scooter conversion. Thanks!

Your battery, if lithium, will have a BMS that has a current limit for charge and discharge. A typical 72v30ah battery will not likely supply 150a (5C discharge rating). 3C is more typical so 90a is probably max, but it still comes down to the BMS.

Yes, you can add a 3-speed switch. Your ports should be configured for it to work if you follow The wiring diagram from SiaEcosys.
 
AlanL said:
Thank you, I have the same controller from QS which is also pre programmed. I just got the kit that includes the screen and wiring harness as well. It sounds like i have the same things hooked up as you do. I wonder if theres some kind of test i can do to find out why the motor isn’t working.

Can you tell me what happens on the throttle wires when you engage it so i can see if i get the same thing coming out of the throttle to the controller?
You need the debugging software free from SiaEcosys and the cable for your controller. The motor/controller/display are paired for a specific voltage. If you provided that voltage when you ordered it should be set in the ball park.

Your throttle has 3 wires +5v, 0v, and signal which will typically be 0.8v to 4v as you twist the throttle. It gets power from the controller so the ignition must be on.

The throttle you have has a key switch with 2 wires. 1 wire goes to battery (+) and the other goes to controller lock (ignition). If the mini display comes on when the key is off then the wires need to be reversed.

Your accessory will also be powered by the wire from the key switch to the controller. Your ignition and LED lights provided they are designed to work with full battery voltage, Those wires are thin so don’t try to power too much. If you have more than 1a accessories you probably need a better switch.



If its all connected correctly, with the switch off you will have battery voltage to one side of key switch, 0v other side 0v to all throttle wires. When you turn key on, it should sent power to your controller ignition wire and main display, and you should see 5v, 0v and 0.8v from the throttle.

If everything is set right the motor will be ready to run.

Motor phase wires should color match the controller. Battery main cables should go to controller battery terminals.
 
BareKuda said:
MDG said:
I want to connect a 3 speed switch to my Votol EM-150 controller. I am using a 72v 30AH battery. The QS rep said to Make sure your battery can discharge more than 150A. How can I check this? My kit didn’t come with a 3 speed switch so I ordered one. Is it ok to connect it? My motor is a 3000w v4 hub motor for an electric scooter conversion. Thanks!

Your battery, if lithium, will have a BMS that has a current limit for charge and discharge. A typical 72v30ah battery will not likely supply 150a (5C discharge rating). 3C is more typical so 90a is probably max, but it still comes down to the BMS.

Yes, you can add a 3-speed switch. Your ports should be configured for it to work if you follow The wiring diagram from SiaEcosys.

Awesome, thank you for the helpful information. I was able to sort out the throttle, all good now! The QS rep sent me over what they typically set their kits too. I was curious on what the undervoltage and other variants were set too. Looks like I may need to lower the over voltage a bit. I’ll follow the wiring schematic and install the 3 speed switch and go from there. I’m going to assume center or off on my switch I will wire up to medium or “off” then the other two wires will be low and high. I’ll do a continuity test on the switch to see what wires are what. Unfortunately I only have a Mac computer so I’ll need to get a windows to download the software.
 

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MDG said:
Looks like I may need to lower the over voltage a bit.
Yes. The presets are for lead acid battery and 72v lead acid peak charger output is up to 90v so 91v is the OVP setting. The regen is also disabled until the voltage is 5v below OVP, which is 86v if OVP is 91v. Your battery BMS will definitely not like that and will close the port and possibly fry the controller mosfets. 85v OVP and regen at <80v should work if your battery is balanced.

That tiny battery with a big controller you really need the BMS specs, both max charge and max discharge. Many BMS the max charge is 50% or less of max discharge. So when setting regen level on single port BMS you need to start very low (10%) and work your way up.

The other battery bms specs also need to be used to set the controller settings. Undervoltage only sees the pack voltage whereas the BMS undervoltage is any of the 20 bricks hits it. So 60v is probably safe low voltage.

Soft low voltage limits max current as you drop below its settings by 5-10%. So a safe setting to start with is 70v. With such a tiny battery on a big controller you can easily sag below 70v even if you are at a high SOC.

Set soft low voltage high if you want to reduce risk of getting stranded with low battery, set it low if you want full power until the controller starts chopping as the sag goes below undervoltage and back up many times per second.

I’ll follow the wiring schematic and install the 3 speed switch and go from there. I’m going to assume center or off on my switch I will wire up to medium or “off” then the other two wires will be low and high. I’ll do a continuity test on the switch to see what wires are what.
With 3 speed rocker switch, center pole is 0v, and toggle left connects the low speed wire to center, toggle right connects high speed wire to center, and center position nothing is connected so its medium speed by default (same as no switch installed.

Unfortunately I only have a Mac computer so I’ll need to get a windows to download the software.
Or use boot camp to install windows dual boot. Thats what i use.

Other notes, the throttle settings should match your throttle, there are 4 values:
1: low protect, makes sure controller wont run motor if voltage is less than this value after turning on the key. Should be 1/2 the voltage your throttle signal is at 0 throttle.

2: Start voltage. This must be higher than your 0 throttle voltage or the motor won’t run (prevent whiskey throttle), but any excess will be deadband, so set it 0.1v above the 0 throttle voltage. Example, if 0.82v is 0 throttle signal set it to 0.92v

3: End of voltage. In this case you want to set it 0.1v below 100% throttle voltage. If full throttle signal is 4.52v then set it 4.42v

4: high protect. This is in case the supply voltage of 5v somehow is allowed straight through like a short circuit, which would cause full throttle. So this should be set halfway between full throttle voltage and supply voltage. Example, if supply voltage is 5.0v and max throttle is 4.52v then set high protect at 4.76v.

Below that group is the transmission settings. The rate of rise of 60 is probably not going to be acceptable unless you have a transmission with lots of wind up. 200-250 is more common because there is also soft start section (which most people turn off).

So for sure you need to get connected because many settings need to be set for your specific vehicle and preferences.
 
BareKuda said:
MDG said:
Looks like I may need to lower the over voltage a bit.
Yes. The presets are for lead acid battery and 72v lead acid peak charger output is up to 90v so 91v is the OVP setting. The regen is also disabled until the voltage is 5v below OVP, which is 86v if OVP is 91v. Your battery BMS will definitely not like that and will close the port and possibly fry the controller mosfets. 85v OVP and regen at <80v should work if your battery is balanced.

That tiny battery with a big controller you really need the BMS specs, both max charge and max discharge. Many BMS the max charge is 50% or less of max discharge. So when setting regen level on single port BMS you need to start very low (10%) and work your way up.

The other battery bms specs also need to be used to set the controller settings. Undervoltage only sees the pack voltage whereas the BMS undervoltage is any of the 20 bricks hits it. So 60v is probably safe low voltage.

Soft low voltage limits max current as you drop below its settings by 5-10%. So a safe setting to start with is 70v. With such a tiny battery on a big controller you can easily sag below 70v even if you are at a high SOC.

Set soft low voltage high if you want to reduce risk of getting stranded with low battery, set it low if you want full power until the controller starts chopping as the sag goes below undervoltage and back up many times per second.

I’ll follow the wiring schematic and install the 3 speed switch and go from there. I’m going to assume center or off on my switch I will wire up to medium or “off” then the other two wires will be low and high. I’ll do a continuity test on the switch to see what wires are what.
With 3 speed rocker switch, center pole is 0v, and toggle left connects the low speed wire to center, toggle right connects high speed wire to center, and center position nothing is connected so its medium speed by default (same as no switch installed.

Unfortunately I only have a Mac computer so I’ll need to get a windows to download the software.
Or use boot camp to install windows dual boot. Thats what i use.

Other notes, the throttle settings should match your throttle, there are 4 values:
1: low protect, makes sure controller wont run motor if voltage is less than this value after turning on the key. Should be 1/2 the voltage your throttle signal is at 0 throttle.

2: Start voltage. This must be higher than your 0 throttle voltage or the motor won’t run (prevent whiskey throttle), but any excess will be deadband, so set it 0.1v above the 0 throttle voltage. Example, if 0.82v is 0 throttle signal set it to 0.92v

3: End of voltage. In this case you want to set it 0.1v below 100% throttle voltage. If full throttle signal is 4.52v then set it 4.42v

4: high protect. This is in case the supply voltage of 5v somehow is allowed straight through like a short circuit, which would cause full throttle. So this should be set halfway between full throttle voltage and supply voltage. Example, if supply voltage is 5.0v and max throttle is 4.52v then set high protect at 4.76v.

Below that group is the transmission settings. The rate of rise of 60 is probably not going to be acceptable unless you have a transmission with lots of wind up. 200-250 is more common because there is also soft start section (which most people turn off).

So for sure you need to get connected because many settings need to be set for your specific vehicle and preferences.

Again, thank you! I bought a cheapo windows laptop from bestbuy to go pickup today so I can utilize this as a programs computer along with other windows based things I need. It was only $100!!

I found some specs on the battery I purchased. One from BTR’s website one from their Amazon page. Both seem to be the same on specs. I’ll get my 3 speed switch hooked up and get the software downloaded and go from there. Hopefully not locking anything up as I’ve read before…I mainly just want to make sure my rates are good and I’d like to bump up those throttle rise/decrease numbers. Not sure if I’ll set up anything regen or not yet. I don’t have any powered brake lines. Just one big hydraulic front brake. The rest of the lights are on a 12v system but it’s entirely not part of the main 72v battery system. I’m not using a DC converter. The image below is the 12v battery pack I’m using for lights.

Thanks again, when I get my software up and running I’ll upload my current values.
 

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Ok, I got my new windows laptop and downloaded the dropbox folder on page 1. Downloaded what seems all I need and can open the Votol V3 Debugging software. Currently in "PORT" it is blank but is this because nothing is connected to my PC? Sorry but been trying to find a writeup or video on exactly what is needed for download...I got the software to download fine and I did the PL2303 Driver install as well. Just curious if there is an additional file or PORT driver to install. This is all very new to me :) I'll wait until tomorrow when I am back at the scoot and will plug in the USB data cable that came from QS. Thanks again!

Here is my software currently:
 

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MDG said:
Ok, I got my new windows laptop and downloaded the dropbox folder on page 1. Downloaded what seems all I need and can open the Votol V3 Debugging software. Currently in "PORT" it is blank but is this because nothing is connected to my PC? Sorry but been trying to find a writeup or video on exactly what is needed for download...I got the software to download fine and I did the PL2303 Driver install as well. Just curious if there is an additional file or PORT driver to install. This is all very new to me :) I'll wait until tomorrow when I am back at the scoot and will plug in the USB data cable that came from QS. Thanks again!

Here is my software currently:

Yes, you need the driver for the usb cable. It should be inside the file from SiaEcosys
http://www.siaecosys.com/upfile/202101/2021012949865893.zip
 
MDG said:
If you don’t have sensor switch on your brake lever(s) then you will lose that safety feature which cuts the motor if brake is on and also brake activated regen. You can use throttle release Regen but that will be annoying. Anyway with your current battery your regen will be limited to 10a according to your battery specs. Not sure if it can handle higher current for a few minutes, depends on the BMS.

The rest of the lights are on a 12v system but it’s entirely not part of the main 72v battery system. I’m not using a DC converter. The image below is the 12v battery pack I’m using for lights.

Looks like a temporary solution. Once you calculate the max 12v load amps, then divided by 6 to get approximate 72v amp draw, you can get a dc/dc converter of the proper size and get the ignition wire size to match it if yours is too small from your key switch.

Your battery is pretty small for your controller. Its a 50a bms and thats the max current your controller should be set at until you get a bigger battery or add two more of those in parallel.

The 100a peak is just for inrush when you first connect the batteries to charge the capacitors. Many people jave the problem that the battery BMS shuts the port due to high inrush current, which you will see if the battery is removed several hours and the capacitors drain.

If you want your motor and controller to work at rated power you need a bigger battery with higher rated BMS. Normally once you bet to that price you want a Bluetooth BMS that lets you set your preferences and see what the cell difference is, if its currently balancing, the current going in or out, etc.
 
BareKuda said:
MDG said:
Ok, I got my new windows laptop and downloaded the dropbox folder on page 1. Downloaded what seems all I need and can open the Votol V3 Debugging software. Currently in "PORT" it is blank but is this because nothing is connected to my PC? Sorry but been trying to find a writeup or video on exactly what is needed for download...I got the software to download fine and I did the PL2303 Driver install as well. Just curious if there is an additional file or PORT driver to install. This is all very new to me :) I'll wait until tomorrow when I am back at the scoot and will plug in the USB data cable that came from QS. Thanks again!

Here is my software currently:

Yes, you need the driver for the usb cable. It should be inside the file from SiaEcosys
http://www.siaecosys.com/upfile/202101/2021012949865893.zip

Thanks mate, looks like I already have the USB driver port installed as when I went into this folder it asked if I want to uninstall the driver. Does the program name matter if it opens the same thing? The debugging software I downloaded from the dropbox folder is called " EM_V3-EM200-5" and the one I just installed from the zip folder you gave me is "EM_V3-EMsport-SIA-1" they both open the same debugging software. If they are the same I'll delete one just incase for future use...
 
BareKuda said:
MDG said:
If you don’t have sensor switch on your brake lever(s) then you will lose that safety feature which cuts the motor if brake is on and also brake activated regen. You can use throttle release Regen but that will be annoying. Anyway with your current battery your regen will be limited to 10a according to your battery specs. Not sure if it can handle higher current for a few minutes, depends on the BMS.

The rest of the lights are on a 12v system but it’s entirely not part of the main 72v battery system. I’m not using a DC converter. The image below is the 12v battery pack I’m using for lights.

Looks like a temporary solution. Once you calculate the max 12v load amps, then divided by 6 to get approximate 72v amp draw, you can get a dc/dc converter of the proper size and get the ignition wire size to match it if yours is too small from your key switch.

Your battery is pretty small for your controller. Its a 50a bms and thats the max current your controller should be set at until you get a bigger battery or add two more of those in parallel.

The 100a peak is just for inrush when you first connect the batteries to charge the capacitors. Many people jave the problem that the battery BMS shuts the port due to high inrush current, which you will see if the battery is removed several hours and the capacitors drain.

If you want your motor and controller to work at rated power you need a bigger battery with higher rated BMS. Normally once you bet to that price you want a Bluetooth BMS that lets you set your preferences and see what the cell difference is, if its currently balancing, the current going in or out, etc.

Ok so I should set my busbar current to 50A to keep the controller from causing an issue...
At some point a different or second battery will be setup. For now I think this will get me around as I figure things out. I did the seperate 12v rechargeable battery so I didnt have to steal voltage from the main 72v battery. I was provided a dc converter in my kit but decided to go the 12v rechargable battery route for my lights as I am very familiar with the TUSK battery light kit. It made connecting my buttons and switches a bit simpler as well and was able to do a very simple wiring schematic to keep it all seperate. Looks like at this point the main thing is to get my controller setup accordingly with my battery. I plan to connect the 3 mode switch as well. Thanks again for your insight and help on everything!! This community has just been amazing and makes working with new tech and things much more enjoyable! :)
 
My battery is a 50A continuous and 100A peak. So should I set my busbar current to 50A? It was pre-set to 120 from QS. Just dont want to trip the BMS..Thanks
 

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So any idea what this means now? Every time I open the software and click open. I click OK and then connect but it says let’s open the port.

Everything was good yesterday and no changes.
 

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Anyone? Any ideas what this is? I’ve uninstalled and re installed the software 3 times now. QS is no help. I don’t get why it was working and now this ridiculous error code I can’t understand. 🤷
 
my suggestions
1. make sure u r using CAN bus or UART serial bus
2. make sure the USB cable mapping to correct port number
3. you can check your "device manger" for correct device drive and COM port number

the more suggestion is find another computer and test again. :)


MDG said:
Anyone? Any ideas what this is? I’ve uninstalled and re installed the software 3 times now. QS is no help. I don’t get why it was working and now this ridiculous error code I can’t understand. 🤷
 
delbidotbiz said:
I have same problem
It's because windows 11 update

Can we downgrade to windows 10 or pre update? I totally reset my pc last night and the hard drive so going to try it again later.
 
fishblood said:
my suggestions
1. make sure u r using CAN bus or UART serial bus
2. make sure the USB cable mapping to correct port number
3. you can check your "device manger" for correct device drive and COM port number

the more suggestion is find another computer and test again. :)


MDG said:
Anyone? Any ideas what this is? I’ve uninstalled and re installed the software 3 times now. QS is no help. I don’t get why it was working and now this ridiculous error code I can’t understand. 🤷


Thanks. And is it best to just download the Dropbox folder from page 1 or use the download from Siaecosys?
 
Okay, downgraded to windows 10 and re installed the software....still same issue. I'm lost at this point. :evil:

Where is everyone getting their Votol software? From the Dropbox on page 1 or Siaecosys? I’d like the latest version if possible. Cheers
 

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That's all right. I tested many version of them. Few problem of connection. have fun


MDG said:
fishblood said:
my suggestions
1. make sure u r using CAN bus or UART serial bus
2. make sure the USB cable mapping to correct port number
3. you can check your "device manger" for correct device drive and COM port number

the more suggestion is find another computer and test again. :)


MDG said:
Anyone? Any ideas what this is? I’ve uninstalled and re installed the software 3 times now. QS is no help. I don’t get why it was working and now this ridiculous error code I can’t understand. 🤷


Thanks. And is it best to just download the Dropbox folder from page 1 or use the download from Siaecosys?
 
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