Votol EM-200 Controller

[s10mods]

I have the EM-200 new version, (ordered in July 2021). I have retrofitted a minibike with the QS138v3. This thing has a bit much power for my bike so I wanted to tame it down but when I tried to program it I could not get all the different speeds to work correctly High-Medium-Low. I want my wife to be able to select low and ride it without flipping over and I want to be able to select high and wheelie on command. So after a full day I found out that the port settings did not match the wire diagram that I found on the SIA website. I emailed QS motor and asked about port configuration and they responded "It’s better don’t change the port settings. The controller will be burned if something wrong." and that I should change buss bar current to lower power. What I did find out is that the "high" speed wire was actually the sport mode wire and in my config there was no wire/port set for high speed. It seems that sport mode overrides all the speed switches. I did however get the 3 speeds working after randomly swapping reverse on to different ports to reference them to each wire color, but for some reason when I lower the current on low speed it seems to loose power in all speeds and changing the right column next to high speed doesn't seem to have any effect. What I would like is Low=very tame low speed, Medium=also tame but faster top speed, high= enough to wheelie but not out of control and hit top speed. This is the wire diagram I have been using http://www.siaecosys.com/upfile/202102/2021022633524391.pdf , and the manual http://www.siaecosys.com/upfile/202103/2021031154133781.pdf .I also attached a screenshot of the manual where there is a link to port settings but the link is broken. I emailed SIA but got no response. Everything else works including reverse and regen braking. I just wish this manual was easier to understand.

Could i know where did you get this controller? Or which sales you contact?

Maybe we can try to help you.

I got the controller from sales@qsmotor.

 

[BareKuda]

…controller problems…

If you post your original and current configuration files, we can open them and take a look. My Votol came with only pole pairs set and i needed to set my ports for 3-speed also.

 

[philippetoronto]

Hello team,

I have a hub qsmotor 16 Inch 8000 W with a controller Votol EM-200. (Pole Pairs = 16 Hall shift angle = 120)

My wheel is spinning backwards so I changed the settings on the software (check the boxes exchange hall wire and or phase wire ) but that is even worst the motor is not spinning once selected and make a strange noise when accelerating.

I even tryed to do switch the cables blue and green manually and yellow and blue but same issue, I am out of ideas, any ideas ? my votol verions is sw: 2.2 hw: 1:03 I might need an update ?

If I put Hall shift angle = 0 the motor is spinning in the correct direction but very slow and keep cutting when accelerating hard.

LEt me know what should I do please.

 

[BareKuda]

Hello team,

I have a hub qsmotor 16 Inch 8000 W with a controller Votol EM-200. (Pole Pairs = 16 Hall shift angle = 120)

My wheel is spinning backwards so I changed the settings on the software (check the boxes exchange hall wire and or phase wire ) but that is even worst the motor is not spinning once selected and make a strange noise when accelerating.

I even tryed to do switch the cables blue and green manually and yellow and blue but same issue, I am out of ideas, any ideas ? my votol verions is sw: 2.2 hw: 1:03 I might need an update ?

If I put Hall shift angle = 0 the motor is spinning in the correct direction but very slow and keep cutting when accelerating hard.

LEt me know what should I do please.

If it was running perfectly, but backwards, with matching color phase and hall wires, at +120 degree hall shift, then you clicked both boxed to swap phase and hall wires, then your hall shift angle will need to be 0 or -120. Since you tried 0, try -120.

You can try every hall shift from —180 to 180 in 30 degree increments and you will find there is an angle it runs smooth, even +/-30 from that it runs smooth, but +/-60 from that and you will notice the motor making noise.

Once you find those extremes just go back to the center. But my guess is it will be around -120 +/-60 (-180 to -60).


If that doesn’t work then start over.
1. Match phase and hall wire colors to controller. Uncheck both boxes for wire swap. Set hall shift -60 degrees.
2. Disregard direction and test motor for smooth rotation. If stuck, check the “swap hall wire color” box. If noisy, increase hall shift angle by 60 degrees until smooth and quiet.
3. Once running smooth and quiet, if running backwards, check/uncheck both boxes for phase and hall wires, this will get both in the proper direction but will mess up the shift angle. So you need to add or subtract 120 degrees from the previous shift angle.

Note: when manually syncing hall timing to phase timing you simply move each hall wire over one hole in the connector. In the software you do that same thing by adding or subtracting 120 degrees.

 

[philippetoronto]

Thanks a lot BareKuda,

It's now working with both boxed checked to swap phase and hall wires, then the hall shift angle set to 0. ( I was sure I tried that before but I guess not)

I guess like my sabvoton you must do a calibration before using it or just finding the right settings is enough ?

I will go for a test drive to check if 2050 rpm is "normal" for this 16 inch 8000W qsmotor 72V as I could not find a better setting

Thanks again.

Philippe.

 

[BareKuda]

Thanks going to tried all these combinations and I will let you know.
Thanks for these important details.

My non-QS motor, with all wire colors matching, ended up needing both boxes checked to swap phase and hall wires, and my phase shift had to be increased 120 degrees from default value of -60 to +60. This might be your setting too.

If i go to 0 or 120 the motor already grumbles at me. Its possible you jumped over the good setting which is why 60 degrees shifts are good for finding the correct shift. The allowed shift is -180 to +180 degrees.

-120
-60
0
60
120
180

One of these value should work for most motors.

 

[philippetoronto]

Thanks a lot BareKuda,

It's now working with both boxed checked to swap phase and hall wires, then the hall shift angle set to 0. ( I was sure I tried that before but I guess not)

I guess like my sabvoton you must do a calibration before using it or just finding the right settings is enough ?

I will go for a test drive to check if 2050 rpm is "normal" for this 16 inch 8000W qsmotor 72V as I could not find a better setting

Thanks again.

Philippe.

 

[BareKuda]

Thanks a lot BareKuda,

It's now working with both boxed checked to swap phase and hall wires, then the hall shift angle set to 0. ( I was sure I tried that before but I guess not)

I guess like my sabvoton you must do a calibration before using it or just finding the right settings is enough ?

I will go for a test drive to check if 2050 rpm is "normal" for this 16 inch 8000W qsmotor 72V as I could not find a better setting

Thanks again.

Philippe.

Unless you bought the motor, controller and battery as a kit designed for a vehicle weight similar to yours, you will need to tune the controller to make it all work well together.

Many settings are to protect the battery-controller relationship especially when the battery has a BMS. You need to make sure the current and voltage settings are correct and that your battery can accept regen without throttling it. The controller settings should throttle regen, not the BMS, or the controller mosfets can fry.

If your motor is running smooth and quiet on road test under all speeds and acceleration, then your current loop settings are ok and should not be changed. If these are wrong it will sound like you ran over a some rumble grooves at 100mph.


Thats a very powerful setup you have so all settings will make a big difference.

I would start with lower HDC rpm of 1000 and then after you see the current draw you can add more and tune flux weakening until you are as fast as you can go with 100A.

Start with regen very low until you get your current limits all set. If you ever try to lut more in the battery than the BMS allows then you can blow mosfets when the voltage spikes.

Also remember to keep making new backups of your latest working configuration file so you can aways go back to good settings. Now that your phase and hall wire and hall shift is set you can save that as your base configuration. Use a naming scheme that helps you remember what configuration that is.

 

[philippetoronto]

Thanks, First test road run is pretty good, high torque for my CR250r compared to my 3000W nbpower with sabvoton 80A; I configured the Votol with no 3 speeds mode and default is high so it should not used use the 3 speeds buttons (as far as I understood)

Somebody sold me this motor and controller pretty cheap as he did not have time to use it !

My BMS (DALI) is 50A rated (continuous) and it will cut out around 150A as the specs mentioned.

I noticed when applying full throttle sometimes some overcurrent so I will verify the settings your mentioned HDC & Regen but overall great controller when you find the right settings !

 

[BareKuda]

Thanks, First test road run is pretty good, high torque for my CR250r compared to my 3000W nbpower with sabvoton 80A; I configured the Votol with no 3 speeds mode and default is high so it should not used use the 3 speeds buttons (as far as I understood)

Somebody sold me this motor and controller pretty cheap as he did not have time to use it !

My BMS (DALI) is 50A rated (continuous) and it will cut out around 150A as the specs mentioned.

I noticed when applying full throttle sometimes some overcurrent so I will verify the settings your mentioned HDC & Regen but overall great controller when you find the right settings !

f you don’t have a 3 speed switch or button then i guess 1 speed is ok. I think “speed” or “gear” is not the ideal name. Should be “Mode 1-2-3”. You can make 1 “ECO” mode or “rock crawler” (5% speed 100% torque) if you have firmware 2,33.

If you have your set 3-speed button and “high” default, that would probably work. You could also jumper the sport mode so it’s always in sports mode if no button for it.

50a was good for a 3000w motor but probably the battery and BMS can’t really feed that controller when powering that 8KW motor with 16kw peak, and it can probably take 32kw for a few seconds.

 

[Oldspot]

Ok, so first post.
I have a qs4000w mid drive with Votol em-200 72v.
Actually I have two one with foot throttle and one with twist.
It’s going in a two wheel drive UTV/golf cart
About to make a start, the wiring diagrams leave a lot to be desired.
My plan is to bench test first. Any do’s and don’ts
The foot throttle has much heavier wires than the twist throttle
Does the controller reduce the voltage or do I need a 72v to 12v reducer
I am waiting on a usb lead
Any help until I get the hang of it greatly appreciated
Has anyone got a 4 wheel blog/YouTube?

 

[Oldspot]

Right all going well, no cockups yet.
I have the controller up and running
Display, throttle, gears
I have a forward neutral reverse Y1 knob, I can do reverse but how do I wire it for neutral and forward
It does go in forward when in N and F
Thanks

 

[BareKuda]

Right all going well, no cockups yet.
I have the controller up and running
Display, throttle, gears
I have a forward neutral reverse Y1 knob, I can do reverse but how do I wire it for neutral and forward
It does go in forward when in N and F
Thanks

I don’t know the wiring diagram of your F-N-R switch but F doesn’t need to be wired to anything if you have your gear selector switch working. You apparently have R already pulling the port you have set for reverse to ground.

For N i guess the closest thing you can get is Side Stand, which will prevent the accelerator from moving the vehicle, but should allow it to coast without regen.

I have no idea how you have it wired up or which ports are not used so i cant tell you which port to set to side stand and which wire to connect to your switch that will pull it to ground when in Neutral.

 

[Oldspot]

Great thanks, I will have a look,
Before I fried my display I had a F and R but no neutral I am being a bit picky but thought it was worth a go.
I haven’t got to the brown wire yet. I will have a play, the brown wire has a transparent with it is that +ve and -ve?

 

[BareKuda]

Great thanks, I will have a look,
Before I fried my display I had a F and R but no neutral I am being a bit picky but thought it was worth a go.
I haven’t got to the brown wire yet. I will have a play, the brown wire has a transparent with it is that +ve and -ve?

How did you fry your display? Not sure how changing wires for FNR can do that. But if you connect the display to proper voltages and it doesn't do anything then its fried. If it works but doesn't show speed it’s probably ok.

The brown wire will work for any of the “pull to ground” on/off functions. That should go to PIN 4 and use port PC15.

 

[Oldspot]

The display runs off 72v, I may have touched the two wires together, fck that’s why I asked question about fuses.

Ok so now I have my Votol usb cable
It’s 4 wires red, black, green and white
My can bus is black, blue, orange
What goes where?
Thanks

 

[Oldspot]

According to wiring diagram I need to put pink 5v (throttle) to the red
Is this correct. Please let me know I don’t want to proceed until I am absolutely sure.
Thanks

 

[Oldspot]

Sorry if not
Coming up with communication error, no response
Battery connected with throttle and fwd/rev

 

[Oldspot]

Ok I am probably being thick!
I don’t do windows normally iPad
I have downloaded latest version of software, extracted it.
The pl2303 shows as an application, when I click it it tries to install says it has
Click it again to get to setup.ex and then, yh-340 but it tries to uninstall
Asked Qs but unhelpful

 

[ors150]

hey can anyone upload the dropbox for the files and manual for votol 200 ?

 

[Oldspot]

Go to Qs website, www.siaecosys.com under services you will find all you need.
Let me know if it downloads completely, I am still stuck the driver software does not extract properly on my windows 10.

 

[ors150]

hey guys i need help with some settings with the votol 200sp,
at the moment my settings are 230a bus,no soft start, rate of rise and decline 255,Pיhase 9960( can be changed?)
and still,
when im standing still and trying to hop the front wheel over an obstacle (enduro),
it feels like i need to have some speed to that to happened ,
and i cannot do it from standing still position,
same thing on the straight when i stop the throttle at certain position it feel like the bike keep speed up like I'm putting more throttle to it,
there is any parameter i can change to solve the issue?
thanks alot

 

[b1oviv19]

Ok I am probably being thick!
I don’t do windows normally iPad
I have downloaded latest version of software, extracted it.
The pl2303 shows as an application, when I click it it tries to install says it has
Click it again to get to setup.ex and then, yh-340 but it tries to uninstall
Asked Qs but unhelpful

Just install the prolific driver then connect the usb it should be ok. Go to the device manager of your pc to see the status of com port.

 

[b1oviv19]

Oldspot!

Did you manage to connect to the controller?

 

[b1oviv19]

Can someone tell me if a CAN cable is needed to connect to the EM200 controller? Or can we use non-CAN cable?