Yarlan charger questions

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

Hey everyone, quick questions for ya'll

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Electric-Battery-Scooter-Motorcycle/dp/B07QR9CQQ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I got one of these Yarlan chargers on the cheap (like $2 lol) recently, and I was trying to test it to make sure it works- I was hoping to modify it like in this video here:

[youtube]ViORzKrOfHU[/youtube]

And i'd be further along, except in trying to probe the tips of the XLR connector I somehow shorted something and caused a spark. I'm likely being overly cautious- I found the power cable used had no ground for some godawful reason and it'll be replaced- but I assume something that quick wouldn't damage it, right?
My questions are

• Is the Charger okay from a small spark? No smoke came out and the lights stayed on.

• Has anyone else here modified their charger? I'm hoping to actually LOWER the current on my charger, from 4 amps to 2.

• Finally, it has an XLR connector on the end- I had planned to chop it off for an XT60 connector, but since I've gotten more free XLR plugs. Should I just make some kind of XLR to XT60 adapter instead, to have multiple plug types?

 

[amberwolf]

And i'd be further along, except in trying to probe the tips of the XLR connector I somehow shorted something and caused a spark. I'm likely being overly cautious- I found the power cable used had no ground for some godawful reason and it'll be replaced- but I assume something that quick wouldn't damage it, right?
My questions are

• Is the Charger okay from a small spark? No smoke came out and the lights stayed on.

Does it still charge the battery as it did before this? (assuming it was tested first--if it was not and/or cannot be until you have a compatible connection then the only test you can do is to verify it has the correct voltage on the output + and - connections).

• Finally, it has an XLR connector on the end- I had planned to chop it off for an XT60 connector, but since I've gotten more free XLR plugs. Should I just make some kind of XLR to XT60 adapter instead, to have multiple plug types?

I'd use an adapter myself, so that you can still use the XLR directly for stuff that might have one built in, or be able to do what the Grin Satiator does and use various adapters as needed for different battery inputs.

You can buy XLR-to-whatever adapters from Grin Tech, as well, if you like.

FWIW, I use an XLR female panel jack on my SB Cruiser trike to plug the Satiator directly into to charge my lighting pack.

(the traction pack uses a Meanwell HLG-600H-54A bolted to the trike and permanently wired in place to charge, with a panel-mount 115VAC plug I can connect any common extension cord to for charging wherever I happen to be if necessary. The lighting pack lasts a lot longer than the traction pack so I don't usually carry the lighting charger with me).

 

[E-HP]

• Finally, it has an XLR connector on the end- I had planned to chop it off for an XT60 connector, but since I've gotten more free XLR plugs. Should I just make some kind of XLR to XT60 adapter instead, to have multiple plug types?

I made one last week using a female xlr https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJO6Y3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

Does it still charge the battery as it did before this? (assuming it was tested first--if it was not and/or cannot be until you have a compatible connection then the only test you can do is to verify it has the correct voltage on the output + and - connections).

I sadly have no battery for it to charge yet, lmao
One reason I wanted to lower the amperage is because Battery Hookup is selling 48v eBike packs for $65 that they recommend you only charge at 2 amps.

I'd use an adapter myself, so that you can still use the XLR directly for stuff that might have one built in, or be able to do what the Grin Satiator does and use various adapters as needed for different battery inputs.

You can buy XLR-to-whatever adapters from Grin Tech, as well, if you like.

FWIW, I use an XLR female panel jack on my SB Cruiser trike to plug the Satiator directly into to charge my lighting pack.

(the traction pack uses a Meanwell HLG-600H-54A bolted to the trike and permanently wired in place to charge, with a panel-mount 115VAC plug I can connect any common extension cord to for charging wherever I happen to be if necessary. The lighting pack lasts a lot longer than the traction pack so I don't usually carry the lighting charger with me).

Okay! I'll try to find out polarity on the connections and I'll try making something; I now have like, 30+ XT60s I got for $5 so I can definitely make some errors. But what do I do, with the 3rd neutral wire on those XLRs? Are they typically a neutral? Do I just not connect it to anything?

I made one last week using a female xlr https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJO6Y3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I'll basically be doing the same thing, except this one is some kind of XLR-to-USB that's visibly a little broken. I'll have to make sure it's wires can handle the current, but that's no biggie and I'm out literally nothing if it can't.

 

[amberwolf]

Okay! I'll try to find out polarity on the connections and I'll try making something; I now have like, 30+ XT60s I got for $5 so I can definitely make some errors. But what do I do, with the 3rd neutral wire on those XLRs? Are they typically a neutral? Do I just not connect it to anything?

Depends on the specific charger and battery.

For example: the Satiator uses the third wire for multiple different purposes--for most batteries it has no connection; this is the case for my system; I only have connections for battery + and -. Some batteries (NiMH, NiCd, perhaps some others) have a thermal sensor wired between the third pin and battery negative, and the Satiator can read it to prevent overheating and/or to determine end of charge, etc. The third pin is used for serial two-way communication to the setup program on the computer (not while charging batteries, though it could be used to do that if custom firmware was created).

IIRC, there is OEM-specific firmware available for the Satiator that allows the third pin to be used as an identifier signal, via a specific resistance on the pin to ground, so that it will identify the pack it is supposed to be charging and do so, but not otherwise. (this isn't part of the user-available firmwares, unfortunately.)


There could be other systems that use the third pin for any of those things, possibly others.