Aprilia Enjoy

Does the 30A CB work OK ? any delay in the reset function (power off to reset ?)
how much was the shipping from HK for those packs ?
Side note:..
i was trying to understand why low gear was still higher than any Mbike low gear, despite the small front chain wheel and a 34T rear cassette.
I found that it is still a 1:2 ratio to the cranks ( ie, 1 turn of the cranks is 2 turns of the actual chain wheel ??)
There is a gearing system in the Bottom bracket / motor gbox that ratio's up the pedal action.
This makes it a real pain if you have to pedal up any real hill.

PS.. Sargents, the Aprilia agents, tell me they have the battery cover ( with handle) in stock for $68 (ouch) :wink:
 
Hillhater said:
Does the 30A CB work OK ? any delay in the reset function (power off to reset ?)
Click to expand...
Don't know, never hit it with the NiMH.
Hillhater said:
how much was the shipping from HK for those packs ?
Click to expand...
Just checked, US$36.67 shipping, all up US$220.90 At the time, I think around AU$245
Hillhater said:
I found that it is still a 1:2 ratio to the cranks
Click to expand...
Yep, 30T chain wheel is equivalent to 60T
Hillhater said:
This makes it a real pain if you have to pedal up any real hill.
Click to expand...
Yep, especially with a 40kph head wind!
Hillhater said:
they have the battery cover ( with handle) in stock for $68 (ouch)
Click to expand...
which is one reason I'm trying to make one! Never tried fibre-glassing before though, but it's OK

Cheers,
GT
 
Ok, an update on the mods...
The $18 chinese controller arrived promptly and was installed after some confusion with the wiring (no diagram supplied ..beware !)
Fairly straightforward really even for my limited "sparky" skills.
.. and the results ???
well to be honest i think the controller is working as designed, smooth take off etc , and no drama's in use .
However , i suspect the 30a limit is dulling the acceleration and hill climb speed that i had with the "hot wired" relay set up.
I had blown the 25 A fuse previously and replaced it with a 40A ( since i noticed the 24v battery pack also had a 60a fuse in for protection !)
and i suspect i had been using 30+ A at times through the relay ( 720 W ?...must get a power meter !)
So, conclusions...
$18 controller works well as intended (so far) but possibly limits performance. Maybe a higher rated controller should be used ?
$5.0 relay gives better performance but not really a ideal solution due to the possibility of gear train shock damage and lack of modulation.
Next to see what happens with a 36v battery set up with this controller ! :wink:

Word of advice... ALWAYS carry a pump and a spare tube !
...how did i learn this ?
..Went for a ride 7am this morning as support to a group doing Marathon training... across the city (Sydney).
Punctured at point farthest from home. No problem always carry tyre moose to repair & inflate.(+ tools and patch kit etc)
Moose works for a while X 3 but then fails. I consider a patch repair, but cannot completely deflate the tyre to remove it as the moose has now gummed up the valve. :evil:
No service stations in Sydney city and bike shops dont open until 10:00 :cry:
No other cyclists with schrader valve pump around ...so ended up pushing 30+ kg of bike and gear 10K across the city :roll:
Never again rely on re-inflation/repair systems... pump and spare tube now installed ! :oops:
 
OK more updates.
36V tried ( actually 40+v as the original 24 v pack seems to hold 30-32v ?) by temporarily linking a 12 v lead car battery in series with the existing 24 v NMh , whilst the bike is on a "trainer stand" / make shift "dyno" :D :shock:
The $18.00, YK 40 controller seemed to function fine with noticeably better power and top speed.
Limited running just to test the controllers ability to handle the higher voltage , but no sign of overheating or other problems .
Now to find the 36v Lipo s ! :wink:
gtadmin... how are you making out on your 36v set up ?
 
HillHater said:
gtadmin... how are you making out on your 36v set up ?
Click to expand...
No progress at the moment. I don't have power in my shed, which means I need to get the fibreglassing done on a weekend where the temp >15 deg. Hasn't happened yet! The missus reckons we should get power on next month, we'll see!
 
You need a loooooooong extension lead ! :lol:

a further update on my efforts....
... With the original controller replaced by a YiYun YK 40 unit ( 24v , 28 A ), i feel the power is restricted.
the question is, should the voltage at the motor drop off as the amps increase to maximum ?
I can get 24v under no load, but when fully loaded (near stall) the voltage at the motor drops to 14v or so. (note , the voltage at the battery never drops below 24v . )
I can understand the controller limits the current max (28A), but i didnt expect it to pull the voltage down this much.. :?
Is this normal ? IE, maybe that is the way it limits the amps ?..
..or is this just a crap controller ? :roll:
I am wondering if i should i be looking for a better controller ? ..maybe with a higher current limit ?
My concern is also that if this is "normal", then even changing up to a 36v pack will not give me any better performance (motor power) if the controller limits the voltage at the motor in this way.

PS:, if i eliminate the controller and run the crude relay switch , i get much better performance, but i suspect that as this pulls the battery voltage down to 19-20v, i may be risking overloading the battery ( although it is factory fused at 60A !)

I have posted this as a question under a separate thread , hoping some of the smarter guys on here can comment.
 
gtadmin said:
Did you get your issue resolved? Personally I thought it was the battery.

Cheers,
GT
Click to expand...
Well, someone pointed out that the voltage i am measuring at the motor is "chopped" at full load in order to limit the current.
IE, it is not a steady DC 14v that my meter reads, but a chopped (pulsed) 24v.
I guess if i want more power i will have to go with a higher current limit controller on 24v , or more voltage from the battery.
PS: i have noticed that my std 24v NMh pack is giving me 33+v after a charge ?? :?
 
HH said:
i have noticed that my std 24v NMh pack is giving me 33+v after a charge ??
Click to expand...
Hmm ... charger is about 33V from memory, and every time I've measured the standard battery the most I got was 27.6V (after about 1/2 hour after charge was finished). Surface charge (not usable)? Expert opinion is required!

GT
 
*Noob alert*

Greeting to you all! What a clever lot you all are!! Let me introduce myself. My name is Chris (Manchester UK) and I have just become the proud owner of an Aprilia Enjoy Race, Complete with a fleet of little gremlins that live in its electrical systems. Already this forum and the links within have proved invaluable.

Oh boy, Ill regret saying this but I do like a challenge!! Being quite passionate about my bicycles I fancied something to improve my skill base, but my knowledge of electronics is pretty much changing fuses and lightbulbs.

BUT IM CONFIDENT!!

Well, I have'nt received the bike yet but from the sellers honest description and the pictures he sent it looks in great nick, its just erratic on the assist. As I now know, this could be many things so ill delve in when I pick it up. Looks like ill need a multimeter!

I look forward to having you all laugh at my frustration and ineptitude (and maybe even offer a little help)
Chris H :wink:
 
Much appreciated.

You know, im so in awe of this little machine that i really dont know where to start. I am pleased to notice that is has disk brake tabs/mounts on the rear, and shares a lot of bicycle standard equipment. I have lots of high end MTB kit lying around, Wheels, upgrade gear systems, cranks and triple crown forks that might fit.

But im getting ahead of myself, Lets get it in motion first. Jeez im still unsure of which method ill use to do that. I really like the idea of the Pedelec system, If i could maybe squeeze more power out of it.
 
Hi Chris, welcome to the "exclusive" Aprilia Enjoy owners section ! 8)
When you get your machine, let us know what you think and any issues you have. I am no expert but i am learning as we go.
As a start you may like a copy of the workshop manual for a little light reading. the download site was posted earlier http://myc5.nl/aprilia/index.php
 
Hillhater said:
Hi Chris, welcome to the "exclusive" Aprilia Enjoy owners section ! 8)
When you get your machine, let us know what you think and any issues you have. I am no expert but i am learning as we go.
As a start you may like a copy of the workshop manual for a little light reading. the download site was posted earlier http://myc5.nl/aprilia/index.php
Click to expand...

Cheers.

Italian exotic owners club OR Italian electronics support group? You take your pick. Yeah, ive STUDIED the owners manual!! I am starting the 'planning phase' of my rebuild as we speak. In regards to the electronics, if i could increase the power to 36v whilst retaining the Pedelec system, that would be great but i doubt possible (at least not without mega headache) Also as I said earlier electronics just isnt my bag, but im picking it up as I go along. I really like the concept of Pedelec although I have never used it. Infact ive never ridden an electric bike before!!

So if I cant realistically get a powerd up Pedelec setup then its down the brushed speed controller/twist throttle route. By powerd up I dont really mean the white wire hack, It dosent matter if this bike stays legal because its for private road/race paddock use. Basically I want to make it as fast as possible, Range isnt my major concern.

As for the battery im reading up on the various options now. Ill keep you all well posted. Quick question: Can the physical motor itself be upgraded? Are they some sort of industry standard fitting? I know im brainstorming but I like to think big. Hey, Maybe I could go brushless...
 
Chris, wait until you try the Aprilia "pedalec" system before you decide which way to go. Be aware, the Aprilia is a "load matching" pedalec system. So any performance you want it to give out , you have to match at the pedals.
If you plan to make it "as fast as possible" then you will certainly be making a few mods. as you may realise, the Aprilia controller is "fully potted " , so there is little chance of electrical mods there, though you could at least eliminate the speed limiter, and i am sure a savvy electronics guy could "fool" the torque sensor of the pedalec system.
The motor is a big durable looking piece of kit that seems to handle 36 v without complaining ( using a different controller), but i have yet to expose it to the high current that LiPo batteries and better controller could feed it ! ( soon)
It is integrated with the bottom bracket gearing unit so a motor change would not be simple , ........though not impossible ! :shock: :wink:
The one feature i really like on the Aprilia is the fact that it is practically silent... useful when riding in the city.
 
Thanks hilleater.

I will be trying it with the standard pedelec system when i collect it, provided i can get it to even run! Apparently its showing full charge but the assist is cutting out intermittently, this could be one of many things but my moneys on a knackerd battery (although i read somewhere that the battery lock/ignition can short out to the frame)

As for the fast as possible comment, i should have said 'fast as reasonably possible'. Im not trying to make it into something its not, just make the best of what it is. Thinking about it realistically anything more than 360v might start causing mechanical concerns. Motor wise ive heard a few people say its solid and the gearbox too, so i guess if it aint broke dont fix it.
 
Aprilia Electric said:
Thanks hilleater.

I will be trying it with the standard pedelec system when i collect it, provided i can get it to even run! Apparently its showing full charge but the assist is cutting out intermittently, this could be one of many things but my moneys on a knackerd battery (although i read somewhere that the battery lock/ignition can short out to the frame)...
Click to expand...
sounds very similar to mine when first run. I would get short pulses of assist only when pedal really hard. Battery was OK ( still is) so the problem was either the "torque sensor" or the controller. Either component would coat way more than a new after market controller ( $18 Au) so that is the way i went...especially as i wanted throttle control and no speed limitations . Be aware, OEM spares are pricey.. ( Battery = $1050 Au, controller $450,)
The frame and mechanicals are well put together, and i guess the electrics were also at the time, but there are better electrical systems , batteries etc, available now.
 
Thats what im thinking... Im unwilling to spend money restoring it to its original state only for it to keep breaking. The controller will eventually become impossible to source no doubt. I just liked the idea of pedelec, man in harmony with machine and all that! Better accept the fact that ill be twisting a throttle i guess. As for the battery ill have to buy a multimeter to test it, if thats r.i.p thej ill look into getting a li-po built. But this is all speculation until i pick it up anyhow. Hey i might get lucky, it could just be a loose connection although i doubt it.

Another question is this: with pedelec operational and you go to change gear, does the motor still spin? Obvioubsly the cranks need to be turning to move the chain up and down the cassette, but if the motor is spinning this must add some stress to the drivetrain as it shifts? Maybe thats why the drivetrain is a pretty modest spec and 'only' six speeds, due to the added durability of a wider chain than say 8speed.
 
The reason i ask is because if i do go for a brushed controller and throttle i could put a higher quality drivetrain in, because you would have more motor modulation between changes. You could just drop the throttle, pedal it through the Gear change then hit the juice again. 10 speeds here i come baby!!
 
With the standard Aprilia set up , the motor only drives when you are applying torque to the pedals, so if you ease off during shifts then obviously the motor will stop driving also. However, on a manual only bike i usually shift downgear ( hills) whilst cranking hard and with my modified Ebike i still do the same and have seen no issues so far.
With regards to upgrading the rear cassette keep in mind that this is a powered bike and the large number of steps are not really necessary. In addition, you will find out that although the front chain ring is a 30 T, because og the gearing in the bottom bracket, it turns at 2x the rate of the pedals and effectively acts as a 60 T chain ring. ! That means even with the 34 T rear gear, you still have a very high low gear compared to a "normal" manual bike. This is a real issue if you have to manually pedal the bike any distance uphill.
I think the ideal solution would be to use one of the Sram DD geard hubs, ( 3 speed hub and 8 gear cassette) which would give a further reduction for low gears and a full set of 24 ratios as well.

WRT the battery, yes i have had bad connections in the battery pack, you will find there is a lot of wiring inside the pack other than the welded cell tabs, with several connector fittings which are prone to dry corrosion. If there is a problem in there , you just have to bite the bullet , purchace that Mmeter, and pull the pack out of its casing to access all the wiring inside. The circuit diagrams in the workshop manual are very useful for that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Aprilia Enjoy replacement battery pack
Replies
3
Views
824
Hillhater
H
R
    • Like
A critique of mid-drive riding recommendations (and hub drive criticisms)
Replies
15
Views
5,214
Bullfrog
B
QSMOTOR
QSMOTOR,0.5-12kW Electric Hub Motor & Mid Drive Motor Manufacture China
63 64 65 66 67
Replies
1,664
Views
425,404
QSMOTOR
QSMOTOR
will_newton
Keywin E-bike Lab Parameter Designer Software Manual ver 1.2
Replies
4
Views
45,149
will_newton
will_newton
dogman dan
E-BikeKit rewiew, 36 volt front hub
2 3
Replies
64
Views
15,446
dogman dan
dogman dan
Back
Top