Aprilia Enjoy

Once again, fantastic advice.

In regards to gearing what do you think to a Shimano Or Sram hub gear setup? I see no reason why not as long as the ratio increments are suitable and this can be modified to a degree by the hub gear sprocket, 13t 16t 18t and so on. I really dont like those Sram DD systems though, they seem to take the worst characteristics from both hub gear and deraullier systems.

WRT The battery, I am hoping this is where the fault lies, and not with the torque sensor or control unit. The only problem is how do i check this if the batteries are gonners? Its a catch 22:

If i shell out and get the batteries rebuilt to standard spec and it turns out its the torque/controller unit then i have wasted the opportunity to have a higher capacity/voltage pack made up

If i have a 36v pack made up and replace the controller, ill never get to experience the PAS that everyone keeps raving about because it wont handle 36v (will it?)

I know I said in an earlier post that I wanted 'ultimate power' and that just cutting the white wire wouldn't satisfy my need for speed but with my sensible head on im thinking it would.
 
One step at a time i guess is the way to approach it.
Battery checks first.. a simple voltage check will give you an idea ( get that Mmeter) . 27 -28 v on a fully charged battery seems typical ( you can check at the charging port) Also check the charger is working correctly ( workshop manual)
Then if you are still suspicious you can try a discharge test on something like a few car headlamps.
I know this can be tricky as i had a battery with no power, a charger working ok, but i could not get the battery to charge and work. Even the local battery expert ( and Ebiker) could not figure it out, but eventually a dry wiring connection inside the battery casing was found.
Unless you can find a cheap source of the SAFT NMh cells ( 20 x 14Ahr) i dont thing a rebuild of the standard pack is sensible . You could build a similar capacity LIPo pack much cheaper, and even a 36 v pack still with a lot less weight than the 24v NMh ( 6.0 kg !).

If the battery check out OK, then you will need to move on to a decision about the controller. :?
 
Hillhater said:
If you plan to make it "as fast as possible" then you will certainly be making a few mods. as you may realise, the Aprilia controller is "fully potted " , so there is little chance of electrical mods there, though you could at least eliminate the speed limiter...

There is an easy mod described on the italian jobike.it web site about cutting a white wire that comes out of the controller potting in a loop. This supposedly disables the 'speed limit' although I have not tried it yet myself.

one reference to this mod here http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=it&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jobike.it%2Fforum%2Ftopic.asp%3FTOPIC_ID%3D248%26whichpage%3D5

another here where they added a switch to open circuit/short circuit the white wire
http://translate.google.com.au/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=it&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jobike.it%2Fforum%2Ftopic.asp%3FTOPIC_ID%3D56
 
Hmm ? interesting that second "translation"..
It suggests that cutting the white wire loop on the controller changes the function switch actions to give full electric drive in the "3" position.
What i dont understand is how you control the drive speed as there is no throttle function available ??
..or iis it just a "full bore" boost function ?
Note .. i did notice that the Aprilia controller has a 70A relay in it, ..which i couldnt figure why it was there.. :?: :idea: :eek:
 
I have recieved the bike, And spent most of yesterday tinkering with it. What a great little bike it is! In regards to the one I have it seems to be in very good condition, with the original tires showing very little wear. It does have a fault or two though.

The battery indicates a full charge, so when I try to re-charge it (at full) it usually charges for under half an hour before the cycle finishes, But even so, this thing is maybe ten years old and Ni-Mh so its likley to be scrap anyway.

The controller does is introduction bleep when you turn it on, but thats about it! Absolutley no power to the motor. I know the motor works because i tried the 'hardwire' trick from the battery with a switch.

So all in all im impressed, now I just need to figure out what electrics/electronics ill be replacing the standard setup with. I really like the idea of Li-Po, and understand the volitile nature of the chemistry, so will be looking into them. If anyone has any suggestions lets hear them!
 
Photos? No problem. Give me a while to dig my camera out. Having gone round the block a few times with it in its hotwired state i can say it is awesome!!

To be honest, it will never replace my fleet of bicycles, but I dont want it to. Id get fat! What it will do is keep me entertained on the shorter trips around town and to my friends houses, and carry me when im in no mood for bashing around full pelt on my hybrid. Im definatley going to put some time and cash into this little gem. Infact, im going for one last spin and then its spanners out. Im itching to clean it up and put some better wheels/forks and disk brakes on it.
 
Few more comments on faults and remedies here http://www.convertthefuture.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=26659&sid=c70eafb211181c6f081de46f76550fff

My battery had no 12V o/p at Vm pin - turned out to be a blown 5A fuse. Replaced that and no more beeps but not keen on the pulsed application of motor power - you need to be fairly fit to ride it! No wonder they quoted such good mileage.
 
jateureka said:
......not keen on the pulsed application of motor power - you need to be fairly fit to ride it!

:eek: Understatement ! 8) :lol:

Update on 36V lipo. Speed check on a very short flat run ...45km/hr .... in 3rd gear !,no peddling... ( need more flat road)
Really this is plenty fast on city roads, and i would not expect it to top 50km/hr as a max on flat road.
Oh !, and its worth noting that 2X 5s lipo when fully charged is actually 42 V ! :shock:
 
Hillhater said:
jateureka said:
......not keen on the pulsed application of motor power - you need to be fairly fit to ride it!

:eek: Understatement ! 8) :lol:

Update on 36V lipo. Speed check on a very short flat run ...45km/hr .... in 3rd gear !,no peddling... ( need more flat road)
Really this is plenty fast on city roads, and i would not expect it to top 50km/hr as a max on flat road.
Oh !, and its worth noting that 2X 5s lipo when fully charged is actually 42 V ! :shock:

Excellent. Excellent!! (Manical laughter) It sounds like you've got what I want. How well do you think the motor/gearbox will hold up to that load? Now I want pictures too, please please please.
 
Ok, nothing much to see, i have deliberately kept it stock looking ..
cimg8249.jpg


But inside the battery bay, there is a lot of spare space !
5Ah @ 36v ...and still waiting for HK delivery for more Ahr! :?
cimg8248.jpg


and the new controller is also hidden away behind a "stock appearing" cover plate..
cimg8250.jpg
 
Looks like perhaps 6x 6s packs would tuck in that battery box. :)

12s 15Ah would be a decent sized battery.
 
Im assuming this is basically the same controller?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/24V-350W-Speed-Controller-Box-Electric-Bike-Scooter-_W0QQitemZ180557452320QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=142293454870&rvr_id=142293454870&cguid=2a6c949012b0a0e201b3b223ffe5fb50


If it is I shall buy. Then Ill start looking into batterys.
 
Hard to say, as there is not a very detailed description .
I would ask the Make & model, and the current limit. ( mine is a Yi-Yun YK 40, with a 28A current limit ) but there are several similar but all with subtle variations.
The makers web site may be usefull reading ..http://www.yi-yun.com/product.asp
Be aware also, many of these will not allow the brake cut out to function with out changing the levers, and will most certainly not operate the torque & speed sensors or the LED battery status unit. Few of the connectors will match those on the bike.
 
Hillhater said:
Hard to say, as there is not a very detailed description .
I would ask the Make & model, and the current limit. ( mine is a Yi-Yun YK 40, with a 28A current limit ) but there are several similar but all with subtle variations.
The makers web site may be usefull reading ..http://www.yi-yun.com/product.asp
Be aware also, many of these will not allow the brake cut out to function with out changing the levers, and will most certainly not operate the torque & speed sensors or the LED battery status unit. Few of the connectors will match those on the bike.


Yup, that makes sense. Thanks. I have already ditched the torque sensor, Ill just go with a twist grip or thumb throttle, and am not really that fussed about the brake cut out either as I have upgraded the brakes to hydraulic. I can no doubt rig a micro switch to one or both of the levers if I find myself dragging the brakes. I assume that if i use a battery managment system this will use the brake inhibit to cut the drive power when the charge is depleted, but i may be wrong.

I will email the seller, but I am also looking out for that exact model of controller you specified. (Yi-Yun YK 40, with a 28A current limit) If I can find one I can get in the U.K, Great!
 
Aprilia Electric said:
I have already ditched the torque sensor,

I will email the seller, but I am also looking out for that exact model of controller you specified. (Yi-Yun YK 40, with a 28A current limit) If I can find one I can get in the U.K, Great!

how did you bypass the torque sensor on the standard controller ?? ... just by cutting the white wire ??
If so, i suspect there may be a way of using a throttle in series with the function switch ( in assist mode 3) and the original controller .
Also remember the Dutch site , it gives some alternate controllers.. http://myc5.nl/aprilia/eng%20new_controller.htm

My bike now has the "squeek" from the bottom bracket as described by several others.
I personally suspect this is something to do with the internals of the torque sensor mechanism. .. Planning an investigation ! :wink:
 
By ditched I mean physically removed. I wont need it because I just want an aftermarket controller. The engine/gearbox housing is very easy to work on if you read the Aprilia workshop manual (Dutch site) and I didn’t need any 'special tools' although they are cycling workshop tools (Crank extractor/ 4 pin locknut tool)

I just blanked the hole to stop crud getting into the gearbox. In regards to the quality of the gearbox itself. Top notch, clearly engineered by a motorcycle company. As for the motor im no expert but it looks substantial. I don’t know if your torque sensor would cause a 'squeak' unless it had come loose, have you tried tightening the plastic locking bezel at the base of the gearbox? just try with your fingers. What’s much more likely is that your crank arms are coming loose. Try tightening them with the appropriate socket. After that check your pedal axles, remembering both tighten to the front and loosen to the back of the bike. I wouldn’t worry too much about it being something inside the gearbox unless you have put some serious miles into it or have submerged it in water, thus eroding the grease.

(But I might be wrong :oops: )
 
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