Hi! Im fiftteen and is wondering which battery i should get for 1800w brushless motor. I have a supermoto body im installing it on but i need a battery for around 120 dollar with charger since im fifteen and broke. Are those blue batteries 48v 20 000-100 000 mah battery good? Or should i serie connect 4 lead acid battery 12v 12 ah? Ive heard lead acid battery dont last long thats why... appreciate quick answers.
Are those blue batteries good for 1800w brushless motor build?
- Thread starter KawaKebab
- Start date
From-A-To-B
100 W
Hi KawaKebab, and welcome to the forum. I recall being fifteen and broke -- I was flying RC airplanes at the time, saving my pennies working for $7/hour doing landscaping. We're all cheering for you and your project.
Links to the specific products you're looking at would be helpful.
Generally speaking, you cannot get a quality lithium battery capable of 1800W discharge for $120. In this hobby, sacrificing on quality means both poor performance and danger (think lithium fires) -- so I strongly do not recommend cutting corners, here. Most people will agree that lead acid is not a great option in the year 2023 - it's heavy and low-power compared to lithium options.
Most people spend between $350 and $500 on a well-built 48V20AH lithium battery from highly reputed companies like EM3EV. Distributors such as UPP have mixed reviews - some people have had good luck, while others have received failure-prone packs. Even UPP's batteries of this spec cost $300. In short, I recommend you save more money and wait for the right fit, rather than waste your dollars on a crappy battery.
Depending on your access to tools and potential support, you may be able to come closer to your budget goals by building your own battery or modifying an already-built pack. I see no easily-converted 48V options on Battery Hookup right now, but they come up fairly regularly.
Hope this brief evaluation is helpful.
Links to the specific products you're looking at would be helpful.
Generally speaking, you cannot get a quality lithium battery capable of 1800W discharge for $120. In this hobby, sacrificing on quality means both poor performance and danger (think lithium fires) -- so I strongly do not recommend cutting corners, here. Most people will agree that lead acid is not a great option in the year 2023 - it's heavy and low-power compared to lithium options.
Most people spend between $350 and $500 on a well-built 48V20AH lithium battery from highly reputed companies like EM3EV. Distributors such as UPP have mixed reviews - some people have had good luck, while others have received failure-prone packs. Even UPP's batteries of this spec cost $300. In short, I recommend you save more money and wait for the right fit, rather than waste your dollars on a crappy battery.
Depending on your access to tools and potential support, you may be able to come closer to your budget goals by building your own battery or modifying an already-built pack. I see no easily-converted 48V options on Battery Hookup right now, but they come up fairly regularly.
Hope this brief evaluation is helpful.
Im thankfull for the feedback but i need a cheap one or i cannot build one due to my parent not allowing me to buy expensive part with my own money. I really need one for 120 dollar and can go upp to 150 dollar. I want to build one but i need a spot welder and batteries are as expensive as buying a already built one and i need to buy case. I spent 200 dollar on 1800w motor and 50 dollar on the actual bike. I visited jag35 but they seem weird and not reliable. Those blue ones on ebay and amazon seem good but too good to be true. Have you boight one to confirm?
Elcykelbatterisparkcykel 48v 100Ah 18650 Li-ion batteripaket 13 Series 3 Parallell + Laddare : Amazon.se: Bygg, el & verktyg
Elcykelbatterisparkcykel 48v 100Ah 18650 Li-ion batteripaket 13 Series 3 Parallell + Laddare : Amazon.se: Bygg, el & verktyg
amzn.eu
From-A-To-B
100 W
I sympathize, and I'll shoot straight with you. I don't need to buy one to know they're bad. Here's the math: A 48V 20AH battery has 13 cells in series and at least 4 in parallel. That's 52 cells. Bought in bulk, good cells cost $3/cell. 52X3=$156, and you still haven't paid for cell holders, nickel, shrink wrap, wire, connectors, a BMS, or someone's time to put it together.
Likely, the battery is made with poor quality, likely mismatched cells, that could be recycled or 2nd life. It'll be hot glued together (which is ill-advised), and come with a cheap as beans BMS that may or may not work (which is dangerous). I've seen batteries put together by poorly trained workers, and they're a mess. I certainly wouldn't want to own or use one. I built my own 48V20AH battery, and it cost $275 in parts to put a very high-quality battery together.
You can buy a cheap battery if you'd like. I respect that people are working within their budgets. But you'll likely be unhappy with the outcome and I certainly wouldn't store the thing anywhere near my house. Maybe you could show your parents this post and other research about why "cheap" lithium batteries are dangerous, and help them understand that it's worth saving money to have an electrical storage device that's less likely to catch on fire.
My advice is to wait until a suitable battery comes up on Battery Hookup, and then probably replace the BMS before hitting the road with it.
Last edited:
You are in Sweden? Which means the USA battery liquidaters (batteryhookup, jag35, batteryclearinghouse) aren't an option. There are a few surplus battery dealers that occasionally have ebike batteries for sale in the EU. If you have an ebike shop near you maybe stop in and ask them what you can get for $120-150.
Later floyd
Later floyd
Which "blue batteries"? You'll need to provide a link to the specific ones you're considering, because color is not an indication of anything other than color.
And there are *many* different kinds of batteries that come in some form of blue color.EDIT: I see you linked this one
Elcykelbatterisparkcykel 48v 100Ah 18650 Li-ion batteripaket 13 Series 3 Parallell + Laddare : Amazon.se: Bygg, el & verktyg
Elcykelbatterisparkcykel 48v 100Ah 18650 Li-ion batteripaket 13 Series 3 Parallell + Laddare : Amazon.se: Bygg, el & verktyg
amzn.eu
Same thing for any other such seller.
Generally if a battery seems cheap for what it says it is, it's almsot certainly not what it says it is, and the seller is untrustworthy. That goes for most of the cheap batteries out there.
Most of the cheap ones also don't have proper protections, are built poorly of crappy cells (too often are actual recycled garbage cells), and are a fire waiting to happen. (and if they don't burn, they will certainly not do what they say they will, and won't do what they *are* capable of for very long before fading away or having any of a number of problems).
A good battery is likely to cost two or three times what the rest of the bike and motor / etc does.
I'm not sure where you can get a good safe lithium battery for the money you have, because most of these are going to come from outside your country, and you'll have to pay import taxes / duties and various fees.
If you can save up before buying one you'll be better off and safer.
If you can't, SLA is an option, as long as you charge it back up as soon as you stop riding (don't let it sit discharged, unlike other batteries they age faster when discharged) it can last a little longer than otherwise. But they're often only good for 50-100 complete discharge cycles from full to empty, and you'll only get about half the capacity it says.
Some people have wired up their own batteries from other types of battery packs that can be a little cheaper, but it's something you need some experience and knowledge to safely do, and will take quite a bit of reading and research to learn the things you'd need to know, to do this without much risk of fire. I started out not knowing a thing about batteries, and destroyed a number of them (thankfully no fires from them) in the process of learning what I know now, and watching others destroy theirs (too often *with* fires, some of which destroyed their bikes, or even burned up their homes!) here on the forum and elsewhere as they learned, teaching me even more.
Whatever battery you get, with an 1800w kit, if you use 48v, that's going to require almost 40A from the battery anytime you're actually using that 1800w. So you need a battery that can supply 40A, and that's going to take a good one. If you can't get a good one, you'll need a big one so the current is shared between more parallel cells (say, 13s8p or 14s8p at least, more "p" = better for both current and capacity).
Last edited:
You should keep in mind what type of lead acid batteries those are, if they are not deep cycles they will not be very happy if you actually use them at their capacity, which is why lead acid batteries can have sort life spans. Just like any battery they must be used properly to have a good lifespan, in the case of lead acid that is using the correct type of cell for the application, not over discharging them and not leaving them discharged.
I would recommend you do some research on how batteries work and how to handle them, there are some good options somewhat in that price range but you need to understand more about batteries to safely use them.
I would recommend you do some research on how batteries work and how to handle them, there are some good options somewhat in that price range but you need to understand more about batteries to safely use them.
If you're talking about UB12120 batteries, you'll get about 5 minutes runtime at 1800W, according to the datasheet. I suggest taking some time to save up money and learn more about batteries. I have 20 years of electronic design experience and still spent 2 months learning and planning my first battery build.
999zip999
100 TW
What country do you live in . Borland where is that,,
As there's other ways about buying a battery in United States or depends on what country you're in Poland has a bunch of batteries for sale for cheap.
As there's other ways about buying a battery in United States or depends on what country you're in Poland has a bunch of batteries for sale for cheap.
999zip999
100 TW
This is a DIY forum and maybe you can put a BMS on a battery with our help of course you need to buy a 48 volt charger. They sell a voltmeter the BMS a heat gun or you could use youhttps://batteryhookup.com/collections/all/products/testr mother's 1,000 watt hot dryer and buy some blue shrink wrap eat her great sales but it's only at 7ah ( capacity capacity this is how I'll be your tank is and how far you can go. )
Do you have a lot of hills are you going to just be using on the flats or in the snow. Plus how much do you weigh ? This will tell us how big of a battery you're going to need oh and how much weight are you going to carry ?
batteryhookup.com
batteryhookup.com
Do you have a lot of hills are you going to just be using on the flats or in the snow. Plus how much do you weigh ? This will tell us how big of a battery you're going to need oh and how much weight are you going to carry ?
48v 16s3p A123 26650 Lifepo4 Module 52.8v 7.5ah 396wh
It's very rare to find 16s Lifepo4 48v modules like this. They are very clean and made of A123 ANR26650M1B cells. There are a total of 48 cells in 16s3p configuration. All you need is a T-15 security bit that is at least 2" long to open the case. There are 14 screws. The case comes off easy, no...
batteryhookup.com
Shrink Wrap Vinyl Tube
Battery shrink wrap tubing by the foot is here at Battery Hookup with excellent pricing! We have tube width from 4.75" wide to 16.5" wide. The width is the measurement of the tube laying flat. For example if you look at the photo, the width would be the measurement of the roll's height. This...
batteryhookup.com
Last edited:
999zip999
100 TW
No I don't work for battery hookup disclaimer.
Plus we need more information about your motor and mainly your controller as the controller will decide how much draw you need from the battery. They call it a controller for a good reason.
Plus we need more information about your motor and mainly your controller as the controller will decide how much draw you need from the battery. They call it a controller for a good reason.
Last edited:
999zip999
100 TW
Lead acid battery's and No good for e-bikes. Let us batteries only last if they stay fully charged that's reason as soon as you start your car the generator the alternator clicks in fully charges your battery they must stay fully charged or else they deplete and lose their life very fast
For an 1800W motor at 48v..
1800W / 48v = 37.5 amps, or let's just assume that's 40.
Lead acid batteries have about a 1C rating meaning for every amp hour of capacity, it can output 1 amp.
So to output this kind of power you'd want a 40ah lead acid battery, not 12ah.
And now you know why basically nobody on this forum is running lead acid batteries anymore.
I would recommend a prebuilt lithium pack. It's going to cost a lot more, but it's also going to work for your application...
1800W / 48v = 37.5 amps, or let's just assume that's 40.
Lead acid batteries have about a 1C rating meaning for every amp hour of capacity, it can output 1 amp.
So to output this kind of power you'd want a 40ah lead acid battery, not 12ah.
And now you know why basically nobody on this forum is running lead acid batteries anymore.
I would recommend a prebuilt lithium pack. It's going to cost a lot more, but it's also going to work for your application...
You might try looking for batteries that came out of a wrecked electric car or someplace that recycles used batteries. I used lead-acid batteries for years back in the old days. Very short run times/range and they were toast after a year.
eMark
100 kW
Even a UPP (48V 20Ah 0-1500W(LG4800mAh 21700 Cells) is $378 w/charger ...
Scroll down and read a few of the recent favorable reviews.
You need to convince your dad that spending $150 is too much of a Chinese gamble with a short battery life and no warranty more likely the outcome.
Scroll down and read a few of the recent favorable reviews.
You need to convince your dad that spending $150 is too much of a Chinese gamble with a short battery life and no warranty more likely the outcome.
eMark
100 kW
More likely 10,000mAh (10Ah) (if even that) being it's only 3p. That's assuming it actually has A-grade NCR18650B 18650 Panasonic 3400mAh cells or equivalent which is questionable? The Continuous Discharge rating is only 4.9A for that Panasonic cell or only 14.7amps for 13S3P. Even a 20A Controller could stress a 13s3p Panasonic NCR18650B battery.
With 18650 3000mAh cells your 13s battery should be 4p(12Ah) or 5p(15Ah) and with 21700 5000mAh cells 3p(15Ah) or 4p(20Ah)
Being that 13s3p battery is rated at 40A continuous discharge the 18650 cells have a 15A rating (45A-3p). However, for cycle life figure 10A rating (30A-3p). In other words no more than a 30A Controller. The actual battery at most is closer to 9Ah capacity.
Last edited:
You'll probably need four 12v 40Ah+ lead-acid batteries to handle the load and give you any range.
12Ah will give you about 6Ah or less of usable capacity, and even if you are only using 900w of the 1800w on average, that's 20A: 6Ah / 20A = 0.3h, or about 20 minutes of runtime at best.
Since there will be a lot of voltage sag, the controller might start turning off under load once the battery is closer to empty than full.
Lead will usually only get 50-100 charge cycles depending on usage. If you recharge it as soon as you stop riding, it will last longer than if you leave it discharged for any length of time.
So...it may work, but you may not be very happy with the performance or lifespan.
tomjasz
1 GW
Scroll down and see that the reviews confirm my data, 5% failure rate and poor warranty service. Sending BMS replacements as a buyer repair item SUCKS. But that’s Rechie for you. You’d think with their success there’d be an improvement in warranty service, but as long as the shills keep defending…
If you are low on bucks you might try used tool pack batteries and a hobby king balancing charger. Use the charger to test each cell before using. You'll have to figure out a way to assemble the pack, but that's not too hard. You'll need to study up on the process. And meanwhile you can save up your $
Don't use the charger/discharger inside your house without you being there ALL the time. Have fun.
Don't use the charger/discharger inside your house without you being there ALL the time. Have fun.
slaphappygamer
100 W
Aren’t SLA batteries amp hour ratings over a 20 hour period? Example, 12v 8ah battery is not 8 amps per hour, but 8 amps over a 20 hour period?
999zip999
100 TW
Here's one . Put a different BMS and go. 7p 10amp cells 13s-$ 99.00 plus charger and BMS. Battery hookup.
eMark
100 kW
76% of 940 reviews of UPP were 5-star. Even Grin and EM3ev batteries are fabricated in China costing between $700 to $1000 for a comparable 48V 20Ah with LG or Samsung cells.
UPP appears to be the favorite manufacturer by ebike enthusiasts with a budget under $400. That $378 UPP battery (48v 20Ah with LG 21700 cells) is by far better than that $150 48V 13s3p cheap Chinese battery.
Your unfortunate UPP experience several years ago is apparently no longer a reliable indication of today's 2023 UPP success (91% 5/4-star ratig) with those UPP batteries listed on Amazon. You need to realize that only a limited number of ebikers can afford to buy a $700 to +$1000 EM3ev or Grin battery instead of a UPP 48V 20Ah (LG 21700 cells) for $378. Even you told me in an Apr/May PM that you own 2 UPP batteries with no problems so far.
Is there another li-ion battery with brand name 21700 cells under $400 that you would recommend that the OP or ebiker with no fabrication experience and limited funds buy instead of that UPP 48V 20Ah with brand name 21700 cells.
999zip999 wrote:
Here's one . Put a different BMS and go. 7p 10amp cells 13s-$ 99.00 plus charger and BMS. Battery hookup.What can one expect for $99 and the outdated cells may only be 2500mAh or 17.5Ah which would be far better than that $150 13s3p battery. Still if he's a handy gamer and with some help from his dad or another it would be a great learning experience
Last edited:
