Are torque arms on a common MTB frame enough for 3kw?

alexscard

10 W
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I'm planning to assemble an e-bike around 2.5/3kw. But i'm a bit worried about the frame/dropout resistance.
The MTB i have is just a Decathlon 280€ bicycle.
What do you think? Ok, i have disk brakes and there are tyres as the schwalbe supermoto, but the frame remains an unknown
 
alexscard said:
I'm planning to assemble an e-bike around 2.5/3kw. But i'm a bit worried about the frame/dropout resistance.
The MTB i have is just a Decathlon 280€ bicycle.
What do you think? Ok, i have disk brakes and there are tyres as the schwalbe supermoto, but the frame remains an unknown

The search function will likely provide all of the information you're looking for.
 
alexscard said:
I'm planning to assemble an e-bike around 2.5/3kw. But i'm a bit worried about the frame/dropout resistance.
The MTB i have is just a Decathlon 280€ bicycle.
What do you think? Ok, i have disk brakes and there are tyres as the schwalbe supermoto, but the frame remains an unknown

Disc brakes are not necessarily good brakes. If you burn through pads too quickly, you might need to switch to fully metallic pads (and maybe brakes that have fully metallic pads available).

Your bike is probably structurally adequate (assuming sturdy, thick, well-anchored torque arms), but at that price point it won't be durable or carefully assembled. You will wear it out quickly. Your main concerns won't be structural integrity, but speed in excess of what your bike can do safely, and annoyingly frequent maintenance.
 
Currently have two of Grin's torque arms. Have them pulling in opposite directions. Motor torque and regen. So one arm has handled 3,200w a few times. I softened my throttle ramp up a bit. Mostly take it easy (no burn outs). So two torque arms will work for you 3k watts and below. above that you need to clamp the axel from movement.

Are torque arms on a common MTB frame enough for 3kw?
by alexscard » Oct 10 2021 6:36am

I'm planning to assemble an e-bike around 2.5/3kw. But i'm a bit worried about the frame/dropout resistance.
The MTB i have is just a Decathlon 280€ bicycle.
What do you think? Ok, i have disk brakes and there are tyres as the schwalbe supermoto, but the frame remains an unknown
 
if they were available, i could also consider to buy a more resistant bike, but bikes are not made to be motorcycle, so the higher the price, the lower the weight and then potentially the frame robustness. idk, maybe downhill bicycles are very robust, but they are very expensive and all with double suspensions so there's no space to put big batteries, controllers etc..
 
Oh yeah as long as its a good bike and a good tq. arm... Yeah.

I put 4000w contin, impact mine, 8kW peaks, every day for 5000 miles now. Broke the derailer hanger off twice even. Lol. Aluminum bike. Tires gone and bearings gone and thr9ough 10 sets of brake pads before any tork arm problems. Yeah just make sure its tight and the nuts, nor the anchor point, of the assy, dont move.

90 pound bike. 40mph. Linelocks even on the dirt and pavement. Rolling linelocks Lol. Common aluminum bicycle frame, Ironhorse with XC geometry.
 

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I find that whatever steel I used, the back and forth action of eabs-low and throttle have enlarged the slot. I need to redo my t.a.'s with harder steel. and pinch bolted slot.


1/4" plate steel from HD/CT/Lowes.

20210801_210119.jpg
 
Two good torque arms will handle a 40 mph motor, which is typically a 72v 40 amps setup. They do have to be good, with nice tight fit on the arm to the axle itself. Typically, you do have to deepen the 10 mm dropout to 12 mm, so the brake disk still centers perfect.

RE the bike itself, of course you ride what you can afford. My bikes were based on the cheapest used FS mtb's I could find. Good frames that did not wear out. But antiquated Y frames meant no place to carry batteries ideally.

The main thing is once you get it built, limit yourself to what it can handle safe. If you get wobble, your frame is not stiff enough. And aluminum frames will soften if they wobble enough, and wear out fast.

The territory you are heading into calls for learning to weld, with a very cheap wire feed welder. Then you can take a cheap frame, and rebuild it stiff enough for your power cravings. Lengthen it for more stability at speed, and in corners. But for now, just find out what your bikes safe speeds are, and stay within that. Bike might be able to do 40, but cruise at a safer 30 mph might be the thing to do.
 
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