Bafang M500/M600 thread

That is the same display that the M600 uses as well. I like the size as it makes the Frey M600 less obvious as an eBike at a quick glance, but like smartphones, it is probably polarized. That means I also cannot read the display at all while wearing my prescription polarized sunglasses, and when I slide them up so I can read the display, I cannot read the numbers for the battery or trip line unless I bend into a potentially dangerous position. This problem is worst when I want to see how many amps I am pulling on specific hills so I can optimize the adjustment my PAS levels to conserve power. The solution might be to get some non polarized prescription sunglasses, then everything should be readable. Another work-around that would allow the use of polarized sunglasses that may work: turn the display 90 degrees. It looks like the form factor of the mount might allow that to be easily done, so I may try that first.
 
I suspect the M600 color display will work (it has a canbus connector):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001053968920.html

https://lunacycle.com/m600-luna-full-color-display-860c-with-removable-selector/
 
Thanks Tom, I hadn't seen that, looks like it would be an improvement. Another thing that it improves on is the ability to turn off the light sensor. I haven't found a way to do that on mine, and it can be problematic, for example, when you cycle under a streetlight, it momentarily turns your headlight off. It also looks like you can change between 48V and 52V batteries which should make the capacity guage more accurate.

In this video he also discusses that the menu has 'user defined' settings for power assist. Does this display then allow the user to make changes that you otherwise can't do with the stock display?
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=al2ICgJnZ9w[/youtube]
 
Tom said:
I suspect the M600 color display will work (it has a canbus connector):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001053968920.html

https://lunacycle.com/m600-luna-full-color-display-860c-with-removable-selector/

Hi Tom, the display you indicated may also be compatible for the M500.

Regards, Carlo
 
Did anybody compare if there is any physical difference between the M500 and M600? Or if the difference is just in the firmware/settings? I have an EU bike with the M500 and i am looking on possibilities to increase it's performance. Battery is a 36V 630Wh one.
 
By slightly wider motor do you mean that motor is bigger externally or just the rotor inside is bigger? Can the M600 run on 36V? Did you also have to swap the display or did you just somehow reprogram it? I don't know if the motor settings like amps are stored in the display or in the controller inside the motor?
 
Can the firmware be edited? Did anybody try to increase current on stock controller?
 
Anyone ever had an issue where the motor is throttling down (providing less assist) even at PAS 5 on a sustained steep climb. Happened to me today and using the display, it shows that the motor is only giving 400w instead of the usuall 600+w.
 
tsellers said:
Yes, I commonly experience that as well, seems to happen at any PAS level on hill climbs, constant intermittent surges of power.

Is this a known issue or is it a motor protection feature? Still good to know it's not just my bike that has this.
 
If I had to guess, I'd suspect maybe they all do it. I've assumed that the controller is cutting it out when it senses a threshold value such as cadence/rpm's, or some other metric. I agree, it is annoying.
 
tsellers said:
If I had to guess, I'd suspect maybe they all do it. I've assumed that the controller is cutting it out when it senses a threshold value such as cadence/rpm's, or some other metric. I agree, it is annoying.

Yeah, quite bothersome especially on sustained climbs. I notice it happens though when my battery level is below 60%. I'm thinking it maybe a bit related to the reduced voltage on a half-drained battery. Will try to isolate this more and ask Bafang about it.
 
Yeah, ditto on the battery voltage! I have also noticed that the throttle is pretty much ineffective below 30 or 40%. However, I built my own batteries so I wasn't sure if perhaps the 20 amp current rating of my build was causing the problem in spite of the fact I have never seen a current draw of more than 18A. (Because one of my batteries is 52V, my battery meter display is not very relevant anyway).

Another thing to watch: It might be that I have noticed this 'power assist pulsing' more when climbing trails rather than on pavement. I wonder if it could be somehow related to constant pressure on your pedals (I'm thinking when you are hill climbing on pavement your pedal cadence is pretty uniform compared to rough ground). Or could it be perhaps on rough ground the brake sensor is telling the motor that you feathered your brake lever?
 
I felt the same as you described my diagnosis was as yours but then i tuned speed sensor precisely and voilà everything works fine and smooth... I suspect the reason is that speed is not read constantly and controller gives power inappropriately (so to speak... )
 
Wow, that is encouraging! In fact I had moved my sensor to an outer spoke because it caught my cage plate once and bent my spokes and dreraileur. Then I had to put magnets on it. I noticed that it was off: display would read 34 km/hr when actual was 31 km/hr. It was a bit north of the receiver on the chainstay, so just yesterday I moved it to see if it made any difference, and have not tested it yet.

Do you think you could post a picture of the location of yours in relation to the receiver unit on the chainstay?
 
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Hi guys. I am new to this forum. I have an M600 powered mountain bike which I am unable to power up for quite a few months now. I have checked the battery voltage to be good. There is no visible wiring issues but I have not looked inside the motor controller box yet. I believe my unit comes with a DPC240 display and I remembered that it was speed limited to 25kmh. It did not come with a physical on/off switch, only the press and hold switch to power on and press and hold switch to power off. I remember even when new, the battery would self discharge within a few weeks if I leave it installed on bicycle.

Can anyone advise what would be a good sequence of troubleshooting and what are the probable causes to look out for?
 
Guys,

I have been getting E21 every ride now (multiple times) and it is really getting annoying. Is there any tip/trick on the sensor/magnet placement to prevent this? I have to reboot the system multiple times in a ride. Bike is a Dengfu E-09 with an M600 motor. I'm thinking of the spacing the sensor to the magnet closer.\
 
Animalector said:
Don't space it too close. It actually works better around 8 to 10mm
Also.. check your plugs. I was having the issue it was the plug to the motor

Tried this out (moved the magnet slightly away from the sensor) and so far it's working! No E21 yet! Will also check the plugs on the motor side to make sure. Many thanks for this!
 
What is the correct orientation? I just mounted a new derailleur, and the only way I could stop it from striking the cage plate on the lowest gear was to have the screw head facing the sensor. Have not tested it yet to see if it works. Previously I had to mount it on one of the distal spokes and then it was too far, so I had to use some magnets on it, and it threw my speed out by about 3km/hr.
 
Where can I purchase a Bafang M500/600 domestically? Luna seems to be out and I have a TranzX MGT25 that needs to be replaced in a Haibike Urban Plus.
 
tsellers said:
What is the correct orientation? I just mounted a new derailleur, and the only way I could stop it from striking the cage plate on the lowest gear was to have the screw head facing the sensor. Have not tested it yet to see if it works. Previously I had to mount it on one of the distal spokes and then it was too far, so I had to use some magnets on it, and it threw my speed out by about 3km/hr.

I Don't see how this can be so.... regardless of where you put the magnet on the wheel (close to the hub or close to the rim) it is still exactly one pulse from the magnet per revolution... with speed being the number of pulses for a given time x wheel circumference.

The only way you can have a wrong speed is to change the circumference of the wheel (27.5 vs 29er) or have the wheel size setting incorrect in the controller (set to 29er when you actually have a 27.5, etc)...

if it's missing pulses (ie the sensor isn't picking up the magnet) you wil get an error21 or irratic speed readings, not just 3km/h low...

Cheers,
Andy
 
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