benefits of a programmable controller

gothicsurf

10 mW
Joined
Jul 9, 2017
Messages
29
Location
Pacifica, CA
Still in the throes of research leading to my first ebike build, and thinking I've got most details sorted except still a bit unclear on the controller. I would like a bike that can be minimal in the area of componentry that would either need to be removed or secured for urban street parking. The controller comes in because I plan on running 52/48V with a small motor in the range of 250-300W, and so will need to maintain a limit of power sent to the motor. I understand this is easily accomplished with a Cycle Analyst, but would like to know if a programmable controller can maintain much of the same settings: current limit, low voltage cutout, and maybe even some data logging. It would be ideal to leave the CA off the bike for certain rides, then reconnect on others.

Forgot to mention plans to use a torque (non-PAS) bottom bracket sensor and not sure if any of the controllers from Grin can utilize this for the throttle without the CA.
 
Oh cool, howdy neighbor. I’m a bit of a noob, so take this with a grain of salt as I don’t know all the options out there. My experience is limited to a store bought 48V rear hub folder that I then put a baserunner/rear 1500W leaf on, then made it 2WD by adding a second baserunner/Mac 12T on the front. I’m still on the original 48V battery with a 30A discharge limit and the programmability has been important to getting the most out of that. The controllers have also been valuable troubleshooting tools (I can see hall/throttle/brake signals). I no longer have a display or PAS and don’t miss them, but to be fair I’m mainly just putzing around. There has been some chatter about bluetooth for the baserunner, so I’m sitting tight to see what that looks like before making any more changes. Depending on what that looks like, that may suffice for me on occasional display needs. For PAS though, you probably need buttons and a display, at least for initial setup, and if you go with a phaserunner/baserunner + CA specifically, then remove the CA, you likely no longer have an ebike. From your post, I can’t tell if this is the path you were exploring and if you already know this.

In my experience, 300W with a hub motor will require a lot of pedaling for our hills in Pacifica in case you're not aware. More like 1200W+ is needed in my case.

Good luck!
 
Back
Top