Can someone help me identify this currie electro drive motor? i want its specs

[sharinginfos]

yep got it on a bike alredy installed without any info just picture.

to select a battery i need to know the spec of the controller and motor.

Kind of old but maybe it can help me go up hills.

see pict and all components that came with it and please tell me wich model it is and where i can find corresponding manual specs please

thanks

 

[fechter]

That looks like one of the original Currie drives. Motor is a Kollmorgen 450W, 24v with an internal controller. It's not too hard to take apart and wire an external controller. The motor itself can handle 36v.

 

[sharinginfos]

That looks like one of the original Currie drives. Motor is a Kollmorgen 450W, 24v with an internal controller. It's not too hard to take apart and wire an external controller. The motor itself can handle 36v.

HI Fetcher,
oh interesting what is the max amps that the stock controller can handle?

I will specially use it to go uphill . for a given battery is it better to go 24 or 36v? i dont need speed . does it make a big difference cause that is one more battery to buy.

Would it help go uphill to get a different controller for it? can the motor even handle a controller that would allow more amps?

is that a 2 speed motor planetary gear?

thanks

 

[fechter]

The stock controller is somewhere around 20A max. At 36v, you run the risk of blowing up the internal controller, but lots of guys have done it successfully. It will only slightly improve the hill climbing. You could run more amps with an external controller. Not sure how much it can take before overheating, but probably could take 30A for a while.

The planetary reduction is single speed.

If you don't need speed and want much better hill climbing, look for a larger drive sprocket that goes on the wheel. As I recall, it's a standard #25 chain. It may be hard to find a sprocket that fits, but they are commonly used on scooters and go-karts.

 

[sharinginfos]

The stock controller is somewhere around 20A max. At 36v, you run the risk of blowing up the internal controller, but lots of guys have done it successfully. It will only slightly improve the hill climbing. You could run more amps with an external controller. Not sure how much it can take before overheating, but probably could take 30A for a while.

The planetary reduction is single speed.

If you don't need speed and want much better hill climbing, look for a larger drive sprocket that goes on the wheel. As I recall, it's a standard #25 chain. It may be hard to find a sprocket that fits, but they are commonly used on scooters and go-karts.

do you mean the sproket on the wheel or the moter itself.
since i do not big budget and will use it only once a week i was thinking of buying lead battery cause they are cheap and at 12Ah 15ah i can carry them easily. I have noticed that some lead battery can deliver more amps than other ( not AH). could you help me finding a set of cheap battery that can at leat for 500m deliver some nice amps? or if you know cheap used lifepo4 that could do but no li ion regular.

that would contribute a lot since i dont know the lead universe. I m in canada so maybe amazon could be a good place to buy since shipping is free. what do you think?

 

[calab]

Buy batteries from Batteryhookup or Home Depot tool/equipment/mower/drill batteries which 5s or 21v fully charged for the small bricks, or higher voltage bricks for the big stuff, like EGO or is it ECO from Home Depot. Can find good sales at HD, Ryobi's go on sale but its a matter of how will you mount them and how will you charge them? People have3d printed mounts and bought the charger that goes with the battery.

Used to be able to buy used Makita tool batteries for a half decent price from Quebec es member.
Charger will be required, a charger with half decent charging amps at a safe rate.
Lead is dead! Your 12ah in lead is only really something like 8 or 9ah of useable power, plus they are heavy and awkward, where you going to mount those beasts!? Batteryhookup might be your best cheap bet, or find a deal on some stand up scooter rental batteries which arent high discharge as they are usually 36v and low power so maybe like 10 or 15amp for a Bird/Neuron scooter. Maybe the bicycle rental batteries are better, they look much larger but surely they are weak amp discharge.


For that setup, might be wise to do an external controller for kooling reasons. Motors get hot, controllers get hot, put both in a confined closed tin can and its just a lot of built up heat. 24v seems logical, then gear it with a gear on the wheel being big for more torque with a smaller drive gear on the motor. Like a 22t crank gear and a 42t rear gear for hill climbing, same thing. Torque!

 

[sharinginfos]

Buy batteries from Batteryhookup or Home Depot tool/equipment/mower/drill batteries which 5s or 21v fully charged for the small bricks, or higher voltage bricks for the big stuff, like EGO or is it ECO from Home Depot. Can find good sales at HD, Ryobi's go on sale but its a matter of how will you mount them and how will you charge them? People have3d printed mounts and bought the charger that goes with the battery.

Used to be able to buy used Makita tool batteries for a half decent price from Quebec es member.
Charger will be required, a charger with half decent charging amps at a safe rate.
Lead is dead! Your 12ah in lead is only really something like 8 or 9ah of useable power, plus they are heavy and awkward, where you going to mount those beasts!? Batteryhookup might be your best cheap bet, or find a deal on some stand up scooter rental batteries which arent high discharge as they are usually 36v and low power so maybe like 10 or 15amp for a Bird/Neuron scooter. Maybe the bicycle rental batteries are better, they look much larger but surely they are weak amp discharge.


For that setup, might be wise to do an external controller for kooling reasons. Motors get hot, controllers get hot, put both in a confined closed tin can and its just a lot of built up heat. 24v seems logical, then gear it with a gear on the wheel being big for more torque with a smaller drive gear on the motor. Like a 22t crank gear and a 42t rear gear for hill climbing, same thing. Torque!

I want to stay away from regular li ion . does not feel secure enough. Lifepo4 would be ok. Atm for this motor i dont want to build stuff yes ok for some soldering wires but i want something that is not time taking .

I dont know in what condition the motor is . I was thinking of lead because it is cheap and ready to use. the size of 15ah lead battery is still ok to transport in a backpack. I wont make long distance so i guess im looking for either a used lifepo4 battery or a type of lead battery that has the particularity to be able to give more amps for couple of minutes .

Is there such a thing as a lead battery better than regular lead battery? one that could give some medium amps for couple of minutes?
thanks

 

[sharinginfos]

Before buying batteries, should i open the motor to see its condition, if it is burned? is that a hard and long task? worth it?

i see those battery. they are 24 v but unknowned capacity. would that be a good battery for the motor?
would those batteries accept being used in parallel(they each have their own bms unknown could that be a problem?
if i use them in parallel and lets say they are 7ah capacity would that mean that i would have a 14 amphour and drain of 14 amp?

24V 9.6ah 245.8wh K2 Lifepo4 Battery w/ BMS K2B24V10EB

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batteryhookup.com

 

[Chalo]

i see those battery. they are 24 v but unknowned capacity. would that be a good battery for the motor?

Those batteries are rated for maximum 9.6A continuous discharge, so you'd need I think 3 of them in parallel to use them within their rated capacity.

 

[sharinginfos]

Those batteries are rated for maximum 9.6A continuous discharge, so you'd need I think 3 of them in parallel to use them within their rated capacity.

hi chalo .it says 9.6 amphour and 9.6 amp continous so it is a 1c case. since the capacity in unknowed, lets assume that they will only have 7ahour capacity. so that makes at 1 c 7amps. if i put 2 of them in parallel 7plus 7 equal 14 amps continous. is my logic right?

what do you mean by 3 of them to use them within their rated capacity?
do you mean that they will arrive at 9.6ah divided by 3 so only 3.2ahour left in them?
or do you mean something else?

 

[Chalo]

hi chalo .it says 9.6 amphour and 9.6 amp continous so it is a 1c case. since the capacity in unknowed, lets assume that they will only have 7ahour capacity. so that makes at 1 c 7amps. if i put 2 of them in parallel 7plus 7 equal 14 amps continous. is my logic right?

what do you mean by 3 of them to use them within their rated capacity?
do you mean that they will arrive at 9.6ah divided by 3 so only 3.2ahour left in them?
or do you mean something else?

Your controller will need at least 20A. That's enough to demand 3 such batteries in parallel, so they don't get overworked in normal use.

 

[sharinginfos]

Your controller will need at least 20A. That's enough to demand 3 such batteries in parallel, so they don't get overworked in normal use.

Hi chalo, i dont know what the controller setting are. I hope it allows 20amps, a previous helper said it might be 30 amplimit but we dont know since it is a old material.
what would help me, if you have that knowledge, would be to bring light to the previous questions
lets assume that they will only have 7ahour capacity. so that makes at 1 c 7amps. if i put 2 of them in parallel 7plus 7 equal 14 amps continous. is my logic right?

what do you mean by 3 of them to use them within their rated capacity?
do you mean that they will arrive at 9.6ah divided by 3 so only 3.2ahour left in them?
or do you mean something else?

yes i know that more battery is better but first i need to know if those batteries can be put in parallele and how to calculate that mathematic.
thanks in advance

 

[Hillhater]

Before buying batteries, should i open the motor to see its condition, if it is burned? is that a hard and long task? worth it?

Yes !.. you need to be sure the motor/controller is worth spending any time or effort on before you invest any money.
You should also note that it is most likely a BRUSHED motor which will probably benefit from some cleaning etc of the brushes and commutator.

 

[sharinginfos]

hi i took of 3 screws and that is what i see. it rolls in one direction and there seems to be grease ok
is that what i had to check
what about the big heavy piece where probably the coil wires are do i have to check that too? omg how i dont see any screws to be unscrewed what to do

 

[fechter]

It may be glued on. I see a black and red wire coming out of the motor, but there's another cable. Does that go to the throttle?

 

[sharinginfos]

there are 2 big wires comming out. the first contains the red and black to battery.
the second goes to the truttle yes.
how to unglue the motor pieces?
if i do that what is the procedure to glue it back on?
is the opening regluing process worth it i mean the time and glue to buy , maybe it is better to just try to ride with it and if it fails or does not work just get a new one?

 

[fechter]

Yes, you should see if it works before taking it apart. If the stock controller fails, it's possible to extend the wires to an external controller, but it's a lot of work.

 

[sharinginfos]

ok thanks so it brings me back to my battery problem to address

 

[sharinginfos]

Those batteries are rated for maximum 9.6A continuous discharge, so you'd need I think 3 of them in parallel to use them within their rated capacity.

hi chalo could you explain me what you mean by hose batteries are rated for maximum 9.6A continuous discharge, so you'd need I think 3 of them in parallel to use them within their rated capacity.

 

[nicobie]

I suggest googling battery university

 

[sharinginfos]

I suggest googling battery university

hi thanks for the link it seems like a very informative site. Ido see like hundread of links to read. When i see that part of me seems like lost in an ocean not knowing in wich direction to swim, . would you be willing to point out a link or two that adress specifically to what you said?
thank you in advance Nicobie

 

[calab]

Stressing the batteries by using the batteries at max, using only 2 batteries at 9.6a is 19.2a on a 20a controller using the entire battery, having an extra 3rd battery makes it 29a battery on a 20a controller making the battery less stressful so it lasts longer, and produces less batt. heat, batt. lasts longer. You might even want to use 4th batteries (in parallel) for 37.4a battery on a 20a controller making the battery work EVEN LESS!!!!!!(Half as much, one could say)!!!!!!!!!

Laptop batteries are low discharge, using those on ebikes requires lots of parallel groupings to get the required amp discharge.
Makes the pack much larger and heavier.

Most important for cheap batteries, to not work them hard at all.
Same goes for used batteries, low discharge batteries - Dont work them hard.

The problem with putting batteries in parallel is, will the BMS' co-exist and be friendly.

It is a lot of searching and a lot of reading. Might be to much for you.

Battery making is a time consuming process, just buy a battery that suits your needs and please, dont cheap out.

Lego style batteries - Like Lipo bricks where you connect and disconnect the batteries to ride or to charge, can be a bit to much work after a long day of riding when you get home and its dark out, with dim lighting to oversee crucial charging process, unplugging connectors and re-plugging connectors in, its a lot of work. Even 3 lego bricks meaning 3 lipos to lego together = not fun. If you dont ride much then its fine but if you ride often, LEGO IS TOO MUCH. You can replace the LIPO I talk about with your 3 pack of mystery battery packs. You can play LEGO at the website Battery Clearing House if you wish. Modem batteries are low discharge, meaning put lots and lots in parallel.

No LEGO for me, thanks, just complete packs for me. One 52v 15ah pack runs out of juice, I unplug it and plug in a second 52v 12ah battery. Takes but a second to do the transfer, then onto the task of having fun riding ebike. I do require more wh, I believe my good pack is at 600wh, the second seems to be 500wh from the mileage I've been getting.

 

[sharinginfos]

hi this bike will be used once a week(one hill plus like 5 kilometers is the route even if i only can use them 100 time it is ok for this project . i want to avoid spot soldering . is this what you meant by playing lego?
I dont know if i could charge all 3 batt at the same time with one charger but i dont mind having to charge them separetly. is this what you meant by would take lot of time ?

i look for the safety of lifepo4 . no regular liion even if one of the 3 batt get used more than the other 2 i dont mind.
I did not find low capacity lifepo4 that is affordable.
If i dont get those 3 x24 v battery, the alternative is lead battery wich i could do but my intuition is that im better off with 3 of those lifepo4 since they are lighter in my back pack plus they offer more usable capacity(90 lifepo4 and only 50pourcent for lead.

wich is the better choice?

If each of the 3 battery offer 24 volt and i place them in parallele, they should add up logically.
i dont know what is meant by if their bms are# not co-exist and be friendly#.
if they are not friendly would the motor still work and use them, what would be the consequences?

 

[nicobie]

It is a lot of searching and a lot of reading. Might be to much for you.

Battery making is a time consuming process, just buy a battery that suits your needs and please, don't cheap out.

Listen to calab, there is wisdom in his reply.

 

[sharinginfos]

Listen to calab, there is wisdom in his reply.

i know that building battery is time consuming . that is why i m looking at those already made 24v batteries.

i added info in this post and i think good questions . could someone try to answer so that i understand what is underlined by my questions?
hi this bike will be used once a week(one hill plus like 5 kilometers is the route even if i only can use them 100 time it is ok for this project . i want to avoid spot soldering . is this what you meant by playing lego?
I dont know if i could charge all 3 batt at the same time with one charger but i dont mind having to charge them separetly. is this what you meant by would take lot of time ?

i look for the safety of lifepo4 . no regular liion even if one of the 3 batt get used more than the other 2 i dont mind.
I did not find low capacity lifepo4 that is affordable.
If i dont get those 3 x24 v battery, the alternative is lead battery wich i could do but my intuition is that im better off with 3 of those lifepo4 since they are lighter in my back pack plus they offer more usable capacity(90 lifepo4 and only 50pourcent for lead.

wich is the better choice?

If each of the 3 battery offer 24 volt and i place them in parallele, they should add up logically.
i dont know what is meant by if their bms are# not co-exist and be friendly#.
if they are not friendly would the motor still work and use them, what would be the consequences?