Tats
1 kW
Commute today - taking it easy level 5 pas. 29.86 kmh average speed, 9kmh faster average speed than Tuesday. Same bike, just with the added e-kit, and much less rider input.
Dillenger Conversion Kit | 250w | 36v | 10Ah
- Thread starter byebyepetrol
- Start date
Hombré
1 mW
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Hombré
1 mW
Tats said:
True that's all you can see but there is 12 so it's your shout.
Dillenger_Australia
10 W
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2014
- Messages
- 89
tonyontopofabighill said:
Send me an email and I'll send to you asap
Hombré
1 mW
Tats said:
These are the numbers I want to see.
Iv part paid for the 8ah bottle kit and will now change to this kit which gives 25% more and only 100 clams more including a backlit led display which is multi adjustable for the controller........... Google will tell you if you think the manual in the kit is not precise.
I downloaded a precise manual just in case.
Another important thing here in my change of mind is that these kits have cells in parallel for easier identification of cell failure with a multimeter.
I'v never seen a bottle battery naked......... Anyone got a picture ?
Tats
1 kW
Haven't seen inside the battery. But I think the cabling is probably a big improvement over the 8ah kit. The connectors to the controls are really good quality. I've tried to install mine with a u bend before they enter any electronics to have a point lower than the entry. This way when it's wet drips will drop off the lowest u point rather than have any chance of getting into anything. The pics in the manual I received with the kit were very clear. Only one i'd like to have seen better was the dropouts and washers position. I added a washer between the dropout and fork to stop the disc nuts fouling the fork and wasn't sure which way up the locking tabs go I.e on top between the axle and fork, or below the axle in the dropout opening.
Rode home Friday with mate on his road bike - he could ride with me on level 4 pas (just) but level 5 was 3 or so kmh too quick for him.
Rode home Friday with mate on his road bike - he could ride with me on level 4 pas (just) but level 5 was 3 or so kmh too quick for him.
Tats
1 kW
1st ride on the bike path in the drizzle - PAS stopped turning with the crank. The grit off the road is just causing a little too much friction between it and the bottom bracket. I'll put a drop or two of super glue between the PAS and the pedal crank this arvo and see if that locks them up a little more - not going to bond them, just want a little more friction on that side of the sensor and less on the other. Otherwise I'll have to file a bit more off the plastic cap around the BB.
With the PAS not working I used the throttle to help me up the hills and pulsed it when I dropped below 28 km/h on the flats. The 20km is fairly even uphill and downhill, overall I averaged 27.79 km/h, no-one passed me and still had 50% battery showing on the lcd meter. Previously without the kit, I would not have ridden this morning - but I really enjoyed the ride and was over 10 mins quicker than any times on this bike with pedal power only. And I'm now setting target times to chase on my roadie.
With the PAS not working I used the throttle to help me up the hills and pulsed it when I dropped below 28 km/h on the flats. The 20km is fairly even uphill and downhill, overall I averaged 27.79 km/h, no-one passed me and still had 50% battery showing on the lcd meter. Previously without the kit, I would not have ridden this morning - but I really enjoyed the ride and was over 10 mins quicker than any times on this bike with pedal power only. And I'm now setting target times to chase on my roadie.
byebyepetrol
100 W
Hi Tats,
Good idea on the drooping cable to reduce water ingress.
Sorry to hear about the sticky PAS. It needs to be keyed-in somehow. Superglue works but just be sure to rough up, clean then dry the bonding surfaces. Hot glue might be better since it's got more "give" and volume.
Thinking aloud; a better solution might be to have an optical trigger to detect spoke rotation. That way it would be out of grime a bit. The trigger would, like the existing PAS need to trigger only for forward motion.
I've found the throttle twist is a great assist for getting away sharply from standstill.
I got passed this am by a MAMIL in full garb but he was desperate and did it illegally up the inside and scored the green light so that doesn't count but it still annoyed me ;0)
Good idea on the drooping cable to reduce water ingress.
Sorry to hear about the sticky PAS. It needs to be keyed-in somehow. Superglue works but just be sure to rough up, clean then dry the bonding surfaces. Hot glue might be better since it's got more "give" and volume.
Thinking aloud; a better solution might be to have an optical trigger to detect spoke rotation. That way it would be out of grime a bit. The trigger would, like the existing PAS need to trigger only for forward motion.
I've found the throttle twist is a great assist for getting away sharply from standstill.
I got passed this am by a MAMIL in full garb but he was desperate and did it illegally up the inside and scored the green light so that doesn't count but it still annoyed me ;0)
Tats
1 kW
I reckon I'll hot-glue it tonight - had the same thoughts. I'm sure a super glue will get me home. I may put a little screw/nut through the pas to pin it up the pedal if it proves to be a 'feature' that the glue doesn't resolve.The PAS is quite thick and a quality plastic.
** Update ** Just had a look at the PAS and the amount of sand round it from the bike path - I've decided to drill a couple of very small holes in the PAS and put a small cable tie through these to attach to the pedal crank. Better than glue imho.
I'm a MAMIL myself and now I know the capabilities of even a small hub motor I'd be very selective on where I wanted to test power output vs the bike.....
** Update ** Just had a look at the PAS and the amount of sand round it from the bike path - I've decided to drill a couple of very small holes in the PAS and put a small cable tie through these to attach to the pedal crank. Better than glue imho.
I'm a MAMIL myself and now I know the capabilities of even a small hub motor I'd be very selective on where I wanted to test power output vs the bike.....
byebyepetrol
100 W
On a slight tangent; just laid-up the front guard tonight; 5x 93g plain weave carbon on a 30 degree bias (so it goes around the curves,
plus 5 patches of more carbon for where anchors will go. I'm just winging it intuitively.
With Gladwrap to provide the final finish surface :
plus 5 patches of more carbon for where anchors will go. I'm just winging it intuitively.
With Gladwrap to provide the final finish surface :
byebyepetrol
100 W
Resin almost cured, needs another night, temperatures in Tas are pretty low at the moment and my workshop isn't heated.
So in the meantime, I made up the Dremel jig based on an idea by an expert scratch-builder on ES but I can't find his build thread ;0(
So in the meantime, I made up the Dremel jig based on an idea by an expert scratch-builder on ES but I can't find his build thread ;0(
Hombré
1 mW
byebyepetrol said:
:lol:........... 'ghetto' at it's best and I love it
Splash guards in close proximity to the wheel is the way to go...... Aesthetically as well as practical.
I'm purchasing this kit this week and If it's ok with you I will keep my reviews to your thread instead of creating a new one ?
byebyepetrol
100 W
Hi Hombre,
Re: adding to the reviews here
No problemo, looking forward to your road tests.
Chris.
Re: adding to the reviews here
No problemo, looking forward to your road tests.
Chris.
Hombré
1 mW
Thanks Chris.
Today I paid for the kit and spoke to Sam who will send it tomorrow which should arrive tomorrow arvo as I live only 2/3 hours south of his new warehouse............. I'm beyond excited like a kid waiting for santa :lol:
BTW Chris, any good finding out if these kits can be de-limited or 'unshackled' as you call it ?
How's your top speed now ?........ 37kmh was the last I read.
Cheers, Evan
Today I paid for the kit and spoke to Sam who will send it tomorrow which should arrive tomorrow arvo as I live only 2/3 hours south of his new warehouse............. I'm beyond excited like a kid waiting for santa :lol:
BTW Chris, any good finding out if these kits can be de-limited or 'unshackled' as you call it ?
How's your top speed now ?........ 37kmh was the last I read.
Cheers, Evan
byebyepetrol
100 W
Hi Evan,
With a following wind and a pint of coffee in me I max out at 37 on the flat.
Downhill it can top out at 55-60 but that's freewheeling.
As for hacking the max speed, the jury is still out on that one.
With a following wind and a pint of coffee in me I max out at 37 on the flat.
Downhill it can top out at 55-60 but that's freewheeling.
As for hacking the max speed, the jury is still out on that one.
Tats
1 kW
My LCD out of the box was set to a 40kmh speed setting. The unloaded front wheel speed was 37 kmh.
Using the ebike simulator on ebike.ca it comes in at a calculated 30.9 kmh limit of motor without the pedal assist - and this feels about right. The motor looks like a Cute, not sure if its a Q100 or Q100h though.
Entered the following settings on the calculator - Cute Q100 328 / Custom Battery 36V 0.2 Ohms 10ah / Custom controller 15A 0.03 Ohms / Custom wheel 29inch / 100% Throttle / Custom Frame 0.8 Cd (very upright bike, big puffy jacket) 0.005 Cr / 105 kilos combined weight. Aerodynamics will be an improvement when not wearing the winter gear....I'm not pedalling as hard so need to wear more clothes to keep warm.
Average speed is between 30 and 31 km/h which is heaps faster for the 29er - the average ride time for the commute being 38 minutes down from 52 on the bike for the 20ks with a few lumpy bits. The eBike 29er is about 4-5 minutes quicker than the road bike too, it does around the 42-43 minute commute. Kept up with a good cyclist last week (dura ace gears and wheels) for about 12 k's all headwind, then he let me go in front and sat on my wheel for the last 7 or so. He was really impressed at how smooth and consistent the speed was that the bike set and really appreciated the draft. Trying to take that 1 or 2 minutes off a 20k time would take a lot of pedal power.
Using the ebike simulator on ebike.ca it comes in at a calculated 30.9 kmh limit of motor without the pedal assist - and this feels about right. The motor looks like a Cute, not sure if its a Q100 or Q100h though.
Entered the following settings on the calculator - Cute Q100 328 / Custom Battery 36V 0.2 Ohms 10ah / Custom controller 15A 0.03 Ohms / Custom wheel 29inch / 100% Throttle / Custom Frame 0.8 Cd (very upright bike, big puffy jacket) 0.005 Cr / 105 kilos combined weight. Aerodynamics will be an improvement when not wearing the winter gear....I'm not pedalling as hard so need to wear more clothes to keep warm.
Average speed is between 30 and 31 km/h which is heaps faster for the 29er - the average ride time for the commute being 38 minutes down from 52 on the bike for the 20ks with a few lumpy bits. The eBike 29er is about 4-5 minutes quicker than the road bike too, it does around the 42-43 minute commute. Kept up with a good cyclist last week (dura ace gears and wheels) for about 12 k's all headwind, then he let me go in front and sat on my wheel for the last 7 or so. He was really impressed at how smooth and consistent the speed was that the bike set and really appreciated the draft. Trying to take that 1 or 2 minutes off a 20k time would take a lot of pedal power.
byebyepetrol
100 W
Hi Tats,
I tried the same ebike.ca simulator and it spat out 34.6kmh.
Uncannily accurate.
Does that mean even unplugged the system wouldn't go faster?
I tried the same ebike.ca simulator and it spat out 34.6kmh.
Uncannily accurate.
Does that mean even unplugged the system wouldn't go faster?
Tats
1 kW
I think to simplify things it's the forward speed where the motor output in watts equals the watts required to overcome the drag. Add your own watts on top of the motor or increase the motor power and you'll go faster. Watts = current x voltage. Reduce the drag and you'll go faster. Increase drag you'll go slower.
Hombré
1 mW
Tats said:
Good.......... Maybe 12 magnets aren't enough ?
Maybe what this PAS needs is double to 24 or one continuous magnet.
When I receive this kit tomorrow I won't be using the cable ties........ I'll be using thin Velcro strips which provide zero cable resistance for setting up and easily removed for maintenance.
Tats
1 kW
Here are some pics of my install in case its of any assistance.
View attachment FrontHub.bmp
Droop on cable prior to entry into motor to prevent drips running down into motor. Also left a little cable in case of the dreaded P-word. This way I might be able to get access to change tube without disturbing cables.
View attachment FrontDisc.bmp
Had to add a washer on this side of hub to prevent disc screws from fouling the fork.
View attachment SidePAS.bmp
Had to file plastic spacer behind PAS down to allow clearance for PAS. Grit gets in here so may need to take a little more off. Again dropping cables from controller to prevent drips running down the cable into the electronics.
View attachment FrontHub.bmp
Droop on cable prior to entry into motor to prevent drips running down into motor. Also left a little cable in case of the dreaded P-word. This way I might be able to get access to change tube without disturbing cables.
View attachment FrontDisc.bmp
Had to add a washer on this side of hub to prevent disc screws from fouling the fork.
View attachment SidePAS.bmp
Had to file plastic spacer behind PAS down to allow clearance for PAS. Grit gets in here so may need to take a little more off. Again dropping cables from controller to prevent drips running down the cable into the electronics.
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
Dillenger_Australia said:tonyontopofabighill said:
Send me an email and I'll send to you asap
I have to give credit where it is deserved. Dillenger sent me the tyre repair kit as promised and I have to say it is a very nice kit.
All is forgiven guys.
Cheers,
Tony.
Tats
1 kW
I can confirm the waterproof electrics are waterproof.....my clothing on the other hand is not... #drenched
byebyepetrol
100 W
New PAS arrived.
Any idea how to mount it on a Shimano Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket; SM-BB51 ?
The Magnet Disc has flexible splines that conform slightly but they don't conform enough to make it easy to fit on a Hollowtech BB.
It probably fits a charm on thinner BB.
Any idea how to mount it on a Shimano Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket; SM-BB51 ?
The Magnet Disc has flexible splines that conform slightly but they don't conform enough to make it easy to fit on a Hollowtech BB.
It probably fits a charm on thinner BB.
byebyepetrol
100 W
Solution: cut the thinner ends off the splines.
The ring now fits and fits with sufficient "grab" so it doesn't rotate and mis-read. It's as if the length of the thicker
splines was designed to fit the Hollowtech.
The ring now fits and fits with sufficient "grab" so it doesn't rotate and mis-read. It's as if the length of the thicker
splines was designed to fit the Hollowtech.
byebyepetrol
100 W
New PAS is working well so far. The adjustable hall sensor needed some material removing to get it to fit thanks the size of the BB on my bike.
Apart from that. it was fuss-free.
The assembly; ring halves, circlip and sensor weigh a lot. I didn't have the foresight to weigh it but I can imagine the equivalent optical sensor would weight a lot less.
Mudguard mount continues:
Kevlar/ carbon hybrid sock and carbon sock laid-up over 4mm foam. Blue foam mock-up provided dimensions on where to cut it after it's cured.
Guard mounted securely, foam block taped and waxed :
Foam mock-up pressed down over the cloth and guard using lead weight. Left to cure :
Fully cured. Marks for cutting to fit the fork are left behind. Light and strong.
Apart from that. it was fuss-free.
The assembly; ring halves, circlip and sensor weigh a lot. I didn't have the foresight to weigh it but I can imagine the equivalent optical sensor would weight a lot less.
Mudguard mount continues:
Kevlar/ carbon hybrid sock and carbon sock laid-up over 4mm foam. Blue foam mock-up provided dimensions on where to cut it after it's cured.
Guard mounted securely, foam block taped and waxed :
Foam mock-up pressed down over the cloth and guard using lead weight. Left to cure :
Fully cured. Marks for cutting to fit the fork are left behind. Light and strong.
