E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[bzhwindtalker]

Hi guys, if you need a replacement 14T sproket, please send me an email, I have such a hard time to keep track of usernames Sorry about that
Best regards, Adam

 

[Merlin]

Haha.. yeah the trails look pretty similar. Where are you located?
Guess you are riding the 64's big brother then :wink: Looks fun!

Germany. But I have to drive there nearly an hour.

Ya it's the big one or biggest haha. 20kw+

 

[Dirty-Kurty]

I have a little wobble of the rear cog freewheel, but not a lot 1mm or so with no belt installed. No Loading.
With the belt on and tensioned, the wobble is gone.
Is this what you are calling the clutch.
How much wobble do you have?
Did you take off the rear wheel. There is a spacer which has to be fitted the correct way round.
One side pushes against the inner bearing shaft and the other side is against the frame.
I can‘t remember which way around it was, but I know it must be fitted correctly.
There‘s no alignment of the rear wheel, as it‘s all fixed.
Can you take a better photo of the tensioner. You seem to have a massive up and down scratch. To me it looks like the chain even hit the swinging arm bolt and goes 3 cms lower.
Are you sure it‘s installed perfectly.
I had another thought. Is the chain worn out. Have you got a lot of sideways movement. Is this a sign of a worn chain.

Yeah i mean the freewheel just used the word. If the chain has some tension it doesnt wobble but it doesn't move clean. I have like 2-3 mm wobble...

I took of the wheel but the problem was before and I doublechecked this first.

If I throttle in Mode 3 the chain moves a Lot up and down, it looks like there is to less tension on it. Maybe i order a new one? Its my first chain. I Check the sidewaymovement tomorow.

The problem came after cleaning the tensioner. Na thought was that i didnt install it correctly. Maybe there is a special distance to get a correct chainline.

I hope the pictures are better.

 

[Joe]

It looks like you have no tension on the spring. Shouldn‘t the little end of the spring be on the other side of the bolt. I‘m not sure, Maybe someone else can confirm.
I remember that there is some real pull on the chain with the tensioner.
This is a picture from some months ago. Maybe you can compare the positions.

 

[TorEddy]

Mine works great and looks like this

 

[briangv99]

Quick lunch time ride to break up the day



Still yet to make it up the super gnarly rock garden hill without putting a foot down, but reckon it's doable with bike the calibre of the LMX.

 

[Joe]

I have a little wobble of the rear cog freewheel, but not a lot 1mm or so with no belt installed. No Loading.
With the belt on and tensioned, the wobble is gone.
Is this what you are calling the clutch.
How much wobble do you have?
Did you take off the rear wheel. There is a spacer which has to be fitted the correct way round.
One side pushes against the inner bearing shaft and the other side is against the frame.
I can‘t remember which way around it was, but I know it must be fitted correctly.
There‘s no alignment of the rear wheel, as it‘s all fixed.
Can you take a better photo of the tensioner. You seem to have a massive up and down scratch. To me it looks like the chain even hit the swinging arm bolt and goes 3 cms lower.
Are you sure it‘s installed perfectly.
I had another thought. Is the chain worn out. Have you got a lot of sideways movement. Is this a sign of a worn chain.

Yeah i mean the freewheel just used the word. If the chain has some tension it doesnt wobble but it doesn't move clean. I have like 2-3 mm wobble...

I took of the wheel but the problem was before and I doublechecked this first.

If I throttle in Mode 3 the chain moves a Lot up and down, it looks like there is to less tension on it. Maybe i order a new one? Its my first chain. I Check the sidewaymovement tomorow.

The problem came after cleaning the tensioner. Na thought was that i didnt install it correctly. Maybe there is a special distance to get a correct chainline.

I hope the pictures are better.

Thanks to TorEddy. We can see some differences.
Your spring bolt. Why is it so long. It‘s 1cm longer. Look at the screw threads after the nut. Are you missing something?
The spring needs to be sitting on the spacer to be able to freely move. Looks like you are clamping the spring and not the spacer with the washer. Your smaller bolt looks a little bent and needs to be set up to look like the TorEddy bolt. Straighten it or replace it with a shorter bolt. You can*t screw it in any further as it will touch the roller.
Where is your spacer? This is a photo from my removed tensioner.
There is a 2nd spacer as well.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Quick lunch time ride to break up the day
Still yet to make it up the super gnarly rock garden hill without putting a foot down, but reckon it's doable with bike the calibre of the LMX.

I know exactly where that is.
Your on mate, that track up is super gnarly as you say, but the challenge is the first to make it up without stopping for sure.

Cheers

 

[Dirty-Kurty]

It looks like you have no tension on the spring. Shouldn‘t the little end of the spring be on the other side of the bolt. I‘m not sure, Maybe someone else can confirm.
I remember that there is some real pull on the chain with the tensioner.
This is a picture from some months ago. Maybe you can compare the positions.

I had the bicycle upside down, thats a bit confusing.
It looks exact like my Position.

 

[Dirty-Kurty]

I have a little wobble of the rear cog freewheel, but not a lot 1mm or so with no belt installed. No Loading.
With the belt on and tensioned, the wobble is gone.
Is this what you are calling the clutch.
How much wobble do you have?
Did you take off the rear wheel. There is a spacer which has to be fitted the correct way round.
One side pushes against the inner bearing shaft and the other side is against the frame.
I can‘t remember which way around it was, but I know it must be fitted correctly.
There‘s no alignment of the rear wheel, as it‘s all fixed.
Can you take a better photo of the tensioner. You seem to have a massive up and down scratch. To me it looks like the chain even hit the swinging arm bolt and goes 3 cms lower.
Are you sure it‘s installed perfectly.
I had another thought. Is the chain worn out. Have you got a lot of sideways movement. Is this a sign of a worn chain.

Yeah i mean the freewheel just used the word. If the chain has some tension it doesnt wobble but it doesn't move clean. I have like 2-3 mm wobble...

I took of the wheel but the problem was before and I doublechecked this first.

If I throttle in Mode 3 the chain moves a Lot up and down, it looks like there is to less tension on it. Maybe i order a new one? Its my first chain. I Check the sidewaymovement tomorow.

The problem came after cleaning the tensioner. Na thought was that i didnt install it correctly. Maybe there is a special distance to get a correct chainline.

I hope the pictures are better.

Thanks to TorEddy. We can see some differences.
Your spring bolt. Why is it so long. It‘s 1cm longer. Look at the screw threads after the nut. Are you missing something?
The spring needs to be sitting on the spacer to be able to freely move. Looks like you are clamping the spring and not the spacer with the washer. Your smaller bolt looks a little bent and needs to be set up to look like the TorEddy bolt. Straighten it or replace it with a shorter bolt. You can*t screw it in any further as it will touch the roller.
Where is your spacer? This is a photo from my removed tensioner.
There is a 2nd spacer as well.

Thanks tor eddy and Joe !
I thought the same but its a new tensioner with a longer screw. You mean the screw from the old tensioner is bent. I have all parts and spacer you got just with a longer screw. How do you build the tensioner in again ? With all tighten up or a bit Space?

 

[TorEddy]

Don't mind the smaller spring stopper bolt, i just shortened it to make it stronger and look better. I think your trouble is what Joe describes:

The spring needs to be sitting on the spacer to be able to freely move. Looks like you are clamping the spring and not the spacer with the washer.

I would loosen the big nut a bit and check that your tensioner is moving freely. Looks like you are missing the spacer inside the spring.

 

[HK12K]

As someone who looks fondly upon LMX bikes, this is concerning:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=105835

Granted it's an 81 and not a 64 but worth sharing here I thought, all considered.

" I am 62 years old and weigh 76 kg and I do not jump with the bike Sometimes the front wheel is not on the ground and not more."

 

[Cowardlyduck]

This sucks, however...what is even more important is the response from LMX.

I had multiple similar frame issues with my Stealth Fighter over the last 9 years. For the most part, Stealth were very helpful and even completely remade the frame only earlier this year after 9 years of ownership. As a result I've continued to recommend Stealth and promote their products which I'm sure has resulted in many additional sales over the years probably more than making up for their costs in fixing my issues.

Lets hope LMX can respond in a similar vain to any failures seen by us. So far I've seen very promising responses to any issues and they are even allowing some of us to participate in Beta testing new products and contribute to the bikes further development which is a step above Stealth and most other companies.

Cheers

 

[Joe]

Here are 2 pictures to compare the rear swinging arm of LMX64 to the LMX81.
Note the improvements on the angle of the rear suspension and the redesigned and strengthening of the LMX64 swinging arm.
It‘s a completely different setup.
I think LMX has made many improvements over the LMX81. I am sorry that it has happened.
Maybe it’s possible to up-grade the swinging arm.

 

[HK12K]

In comparison the welds on the 81 look absolutely atrocious, if I may be frank. Based on the above photos anyway.

 

[BCTECH]

Here are 2 pictures to compare the rear swinging arm of LMX64 to the LMX81.
Note the improvements on the angle of the rear suspension and the redesigned and strengthening of the LMX64 swinging arm.
It‘s a completely different setup.
I think LMX has made many improvements over the LMX81. I am sorry that it has happened.
Maybe it’s possible to up-grade the swinging arm.

it looks like the lower mounting point location is different between the 2? other than that i think they look compatible
it is quite a concern for current lmx 81 owners including myself, would be good to get it addressed before it happens when going down 30mph down the hill.
When the frame was designed/engineered , I assumed its been done with some kind of finite element analysis before going to production?

 

[HK12K]

Off topic, but I like the bike in your avatar. In fact I liked it so much I think I now own the bike in your avatar.

Greetings from Surrey. I hope that you have been well. Let me know if you ever decide to sell any of your other bikes. :wink:

 

[BCTECH]

Off topic, but I like the bike in your avatar. In fact I liked it so much I think I now own the bike in your avatar.

Greetings from Surrey. I hope that you have been well. Let me know if you ever decide to sell any of your other bikes. :wink:

what a small world! I definitely miss that bike. will pm you

 

[enduromac]

Thanks HK12K to have post my frame issues here. If I could have a reasonable solution from LMX I will post here also.
I consider my 81 the best bike in the world (net of what happened to the frame and the swingarm!) And I want to ride it again, so I hope that some of those who read here, will feel expert and well-trained enough to give me some solution, that is not that simple like to throw it to the nettles; The swingarm of 64 probably is a solution in that department but, for the main frame, I repeat here my considerations to which I asked for a comment:
The fact that the break along the weld can always be present and I have not noticed, would it also give a chance to the hope of being able to continue using the bike, without aggravating the problem (after replacing or repairing the swingarm) ?
On the other hand, it could be assumed that the frame is starting to break there, as it does not support the effort that tends to open it, on the part of the seatpost, as I use a fairly long off-seat and therefore I do not keep the saddle downhill, as I like to apply myself seriously on the pedals. How about? Hoping to have explained myself
Thus the first opinion (manufacturing defect) would, paradoxically, give tranquility.
The second one (design defect) would give the certainty of not being able to use the bike, without putting a hand on a reinforcement.
Thanks again

 

[Joe]

Quick lunch time ride to break up the day
Still yet to make it up the super gnarly rock garden hill without putting a foot down, but reckon it's doable with bike the calibre of the LMX.

I know exactly where that is.
Your on mate, that track up is super gnarly as you say, but the challenge is the first to make it up without stopping for sure.

Cheers

How about you two getting together and having a chain verse belt challenge. Acceleration, top speed, and the climb.

 

[bzhwindtalker]

This LMX 81 frame was produced in 2017, since that we improved the welding process and design.

On the pictures of the 81 it looks like a longer shock than 200mm was used, that could also lead to higher/different loads than intended. We have been in contact with the customer, offered repairs for this frame that is out of warranty and a LMX 64 swingarm at a discount.

The 64 has passed L1E-B mechanical cycled load tests successfully, then the two tested samples have been tested to breaking point to see where the critical areas were loacted. Those areas have been further improved based on this lab testing.

In any case, we always do our maximun to assist our customers and get you getting the best out of your LMX bikes!
Adam

 

[enduromac]

There are ambiguities in the answer that require clarification:
1) The length of the dnm shock absorber must be checked (there is the lockdown and today is Sunday) and compared with that of the rock shox proposed in the photo (it would be useful to let us know the model), subject to verification, the question of length still seems a form of "sidetracking".

2) A clear misdirection is to claim to have offered the repair for the MAIN FRAME, the truth is that they have provided me with a QUOTE for a repair COMPLETELY AT MY CHARGE.

3) I was offered the swingarm at 250 euros plus shipping (so it's clearer), I don't know the full price, but it seems like a good discount.
Now you know the precise (net of DNM) situation It would have been enough, once they knew of the cracked in the main frame and that I already had the bike from the welder, add a small gift with the swingarm (I assume: two 3-inch tires x26 public price € 110 ) to give the sense of staying "close" instead of invoking the expiration of the warranty, for a bike of December 2017 evidently failed in the welding process or in the design

 

[HK12K]

I don't want to start a whole thing, but as a potential prospective customer I find that response disappointing.

 

[Mihei777]

Hi. Interesting to know that somebody else having problem with chain tension. This chain tension issue been troubling me long time. First i had a too long chain (factory) and that was creating problem (that time i had also power cut problem, which stop motor for short period and then chain was jumping over tooth) . When chain was too long i tight normal spring pretension. Latest solution you see on picture. I have found this solution is best for me, but maybe dosent look so nice but it works. Here is pic.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hi. Interesting to know that somebody else having problem with chain tension. This chain tension issue been troubling me long time. First i had a too long chain (factory) and that was creating problem (that time i had also power cut problem, which stop motor for short period and then chain was jumping over tooth) . When chain was too long i tight normal spring pretension. Latest solution you see on picture. I have found this solution is best for me, but maybe dosent look so nice but it works. Here is pic.6F3B005F-6062-41D9-915A-200E070D5AF2.jpeg

Interesting problem....and solution. I can't say I ever had any chain issues in the short time I was running mine.

What's that box on top of your battery? Looks like a controller...what's the story behind that?

Cheers