E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

I had to remove two times a link to mine, one after the break in, and one after about a year of use, before recently change the complete transmission, but maybe changing only the 12 pinion, removing a third link, could allow to delay the sostitution for some useful time
 
CD was wondering why i moved controller out from its original position. Reason is that here in Finland we have really rainy all year around and it makes conditions really muddy. First time when i took motor out from its place, there was bird nest and all channels was blocked and water was staying there permanently. So now controller is out and its much easier clean and no need to worry is it getting water inside. Other reason is that i had power cut problem, because of water. Cruise and reverse inputs were activated againts ground by water. Problem was solved two ways: removing water factor and disable cr and rv inputs. Now all good except pas assistance. But it dosent matter so much because i am mainly riding with throttle and powerlevel3 and no pedaling
 
Mihei777 said:
CD was wondering why i moved controller out from its original position. Reason is that here in Finland we have really rainy all year around and it makes conditions really muddy. First time when i took motor out from its place, there was bird nest and all channels was blocked and water was staying there permanently. So now controller is out and its much easier clean and no need to worry is it getting water inside. Other reason is that i had power cut problem, because of water. Cruise and reverse inputs were activated againts ground by water. Problem was solved two ways: removing water factor and disable cr and rv inputs. Now all good except pas assistance. But it dosent matter so much because i am mainly riding with throttle and powerlevel3 and no pedaling
Thanks for this. Good to know. It's not too wet/muddy around here most of the time although I did have to ride through some deep water the other day which soaked one of my feet so it would have been above the controller level. Bike kept going fine and ploughed straight through it with no issues. I will have to have a close look when I finally get around to opening up that area. TBH I didn't even know the controller looked like that as I haven't removed my motor yet. :lol:

Cheers
 
To anyone wondering what Brian and I are going on about, this is the climb neither of us has yet to be able to complete without stopping as yet.
I didn't include this in the footage of our previous ride as it was too shakey, but this should still give you an idea!
[youtube]6NGcbHi5uy4[/youtube]
I came close on this attempt, only stopping the once at the hardest part.
This is the sort of thing that's impossible on a hub bike. It should be possible on the LMX...just needs the skill level to match!
I can't really attempt it at the moment since my front sprocket is slipping and prevents me from using mode 3. You need all the power you can get to do this climb!

Cheers
 
enduromac said:
There are ambiguities in the answer that require clarification:
1) The length of the dnm shock absorber must be checked (there is the lockdown and today is Sunday) and compared with that of the rock shox proposed in the photo (it would be useful to let us know the model), subject to verification, the question of length still seems a form of "sidetracking".

2) A clear misdirection is to claim to have offered the repair for the MAIN FRAME, the truth is that they have provided me with a QUOTE for a repair COMPLETELY AT MY CHARGE.

3) I was offered the swingarm at 250 euros plus shipping (so it's clearer), I don't know the full price, but it seems like a good discount.
Now you know the precise (net of DNM) situation It would have been enough, once they knew of the cracked in the main frame and that I already had the bike from the welder, add a small gift with the swingarm (I assume: two 3-inch tires x26 public price € 110 ) to give the sense of staying "close" instead of invoking the expiration of the warranty, for a bike of December 2017 evidently failed in the welding process or in the design
Update: The DNM shock absorber is 220mm lenght. What about the Rock shox? Is there someone who can explain if and how this requires a more robust swingarm ?! For me it is absolutely not an influential parameter but, I would like to hear other qualified opinions, thanks
 
Cowardlyduck said:
To anyone wondering what Brian and I are going on about, this is the climb neither of us has yet to be able to complete without stopping as yet.
I didn't include this in the footage of our previous ride as it was too shakey, but this should still give you an idea!
[youtube]6NGcbHi5uy4[/youtube]
I came close on this attempt, only stopping the once at the hardest part.
This is the sort of thing that's impossible on a hub bike. It should be possible on the LMX...just needs the skill level to match!
I can't really attempt it at the moment since my front sprocket is slipping and prevents me from using mode 3. You need all the power you can get to do this climb!

Cheers
I could climb that on my SurRon no problem. :lol: Just messing with you. Seriously, thats a gnarly steep hill with a bunch of rocks thrown in. The day you clean that, I will raise a toast to you from Nevada USA in your honor. Keep at it.
 
bzhwindtalker said:
Thanks for the feedback, we are working with our suppliers on steel belts sprokets.
In the meantime I can send you a replacement alu sprokets with improved profile.
I would like to know if it does still slip with a new sproket and same belt.
Best regards, Adam

The new sprocket arrived this afternoon. Thank you.
Fitted it straight away and I am still running with the original belt.
You do need a little extractor to get this sprocket off.
EA742175-C9CD-4329-9126-4D748808928E.jpeg
Took the bike for the same ride as last week. This time it was wet and muddy. 38 km.

The squeaking is gone, the tooth jump is gone. Full power, steep climbs and no tooth jumping.
Perfect.
Ran the full battery out and had to even pedal a little home.
 

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There appear to be some substantial differences between the two swingarms both in location of the pivot point and shock angle. Would replacing one with the other not potentially also lead to higher/different loads than intended? Does it change the ride height or geometry? Just curious if this is something that's been done before and tested to ensure it's an appropriate solution, both for enduromac's sake as well as my own edification should an 81 ever come my way.
 
Thanks for your report Joe!
It seems like a stronger sproket will solve most of the issue then.
Steel sprokets are on order, but we were quoted 45 days at least.
Best regards, Adam
 
Joe said:
The squeaking is gone, the tooth jump is gone. Full power, steep climbs and no tooth jumping.
Perfect.
Ran the full battery out and had to even pedal a little home.
that is great news! I'm still waiting for mine to arrive... Shipping is so slow atm!
I'll certainly report my findings also, and try to tackle that rock face with it. 😊

Cheers
 
Mihei777 said:
Hi. Interesting to know that somebody else having problem with chain tension. This chain tension issue been troubling me long time. First i had a too long chain (factory) and that was creating problem (that time i had also power cut problem, which stop motor for short period and then chain was jumping over tooth) . When chain was too long i tight normal spring pretension. Latest solution you see on picture. I have found this solution is best for me, but maybe dosent look so nice but it works. Here is pic.6F3B005F-6062-41D9-915A-200E070D5AF2.jpeg

I have exactly the same Problem. I try to short the chain... I hope it works
 
bzhwindtalker said:
I would suggest to remove 1 link (2 pins) from your chain if you have tension issues.
The chain need a 219 kart chain breaker.

I will try it and report if it helps
 
Cowardlyduck said:
To anyone wondering what Brian and I are going on about, this is the climb neither of us has yet to be able to complete without stopping as yet.

I came close on this attempt, only stopping the once at the hardest part.
This is the sort of thing that's impossible on a hub bike. It should be possible on the LMX...just needs the skill level to match!

It's that small section with basketball size rocks blocking the track that's the show stopper :shock:

I could climb that on my SurRon no problem.

I'm sure the Suron would make light work of that climb Rix :D ...but riding on paths in the city, with what amounts to an electric MX bike, is stretching the friendship a tad too far for me.
 
Chain link is removed and tested. I kept my extra spring for tension, but still sometimes chain jumps out. Especially in the corners when bike is flipped sideways and in rocks when loosing throttle it jumps out. I still happy with my current set up, i only need place chain back few times during ride
 
bzhwindtalker said:
Thanks for your report Joe!
It seems like a stronger sproket will solve most of the issue then.
Steel sprokets are on order, but we were quoted 45 days at least.
Best regards, Adam

Put me on the list for one.
 
bzhwindtalker said:
I would suggest to remove 1 link (2 pins) from your chain if you have tension issues.
The chain need a 219 kart chain breaker.

Merci beaucoup ! Its solved the problem :) :)
 
briangv99 said:
Cowardlyduck said:
To anyone wondering what Brian and I are going on about, this is the climb neither of us has yet to be able to complete without stopping as yet.

I came close on this attempt, only stopping the once at the hardest part.
This is the sort of thing that's impossible on a hub bike. It should be possible on the LMX...just needs the skill level to match!

It's that small section with basketball size rocks blocking the track that's the show stopper :shock:

I could climb that on my SurRon no problem.

I'm sure the Suron would make light work of that climb Rix :D ...but riding on paths in the city, with what amounts to an electric MX bike, is stretching the friendship a tad too far for me.

Hey Brian, I was just flipping CD the business. We go way way back... so to speak. He got his Fighter about the same time I got my Bomber and we have been back and forth ever since. ( Hey CD don't get me going about heat shrink wrap :shock: ). And you are right, on bike paths, in the city, the SurRon would be no bueno for sure. I love this thread, you guys are doing great things.
 
Rix said:
Hey Brian, I was just flipping CD the business. We go way way back... so to speak. He got his Fighter about the same time I got my Bomber and we have been back and forth ever since. ( Hey CD don't get me going about heat shrink wrap :shock: ). And you are right, on bike paths, in the city, the SurRon would be no bueno for sure. I love this thread, you guys are doing great things.

Hey Rix,

no worries, I knew where you were coming from, been following your post since when you joined. Your SurRon sure is a sweet bike and loved your Alta, shame you had to move that one on, they may become a collectors item one day :D
 
briangv99 said:
Rix said:
Hey Brian, I was just flipping CD the business. We go way way back... so to speak. He got his Fighter about the same time I got my Bomber and we have been back and forth ever since. ( Hey CD don't get me going about heat shrink wrap :shock: ). And you are right, on bike paths, in the city, the SurRon would be no bueno for sure. I love this thread, you guys are doing great things.

Hey Rix,

no worries, I knew where you were coming from, been following your post since when you joined. Your SurRon sure is a sweet bike and loved your Alta, shame you had to move that one on, they may become a collectors item one day :D
Man I regret getting rid of the Alta. But as far as the LMX you guys have, I don't think there is a better MTB design that can climb like your 64 can. Yah, the SurRon does offer a pedal kit, so does Vector Ebike for their vortex model, but realistically those things suck balls can't be pedaled for distance or un-assisted power like your LMX 64 can.
 
+1 Rick...

But...

My girl sold her surron... Needs something more light.
I was out for "normal Ebikes" since half decade...

Now searching for something useful below 25kg I saw alot of bad ass "stock" OEM bikes.

Needless to say... Quite and no chain massacre.
Up to 800wh (equal lmx64)

"unlocked" 60kph speed.

1200w peak "only" but used bike gears of the bike (no over heating the 30mm motor)

And same price or even 1000 bugs below.

Downside.. No throttle.

I was totally dialed in for a 64.... But now Iam not that sure.
The Europe legal 64 would be the only option to be "on top" above all others.

Damn.... Sucks not having the option to try a 64 with latest controller.
Those pseudo Pas with nuc doesn't work well.

Torque based cranks are a must have when you go "emtb"
 
Rix said:
But as far as the LMX you guys have, I don't think there is a better MTB design that can climb like your 64 can. Yah, the SurRon does offer a pedal kit, so does Vector Ebike for their vortex model, but realistically those things suck balls can't be pedaled for distance or un-assisted power like your LMX 64 can.

Adam has nailed the whole powerful(ish) but pedalable mountain bike formula with the LMX64. It really does work as well as my factory Shimano e8000 equipped bike, in fact it might even work a bit better. Pedal in a low gear and the power delivery is gentle, click up a gear and the taller gear puts more load on the torque sensor and you're rewarded with a bigger hit of power. Even just pedalling the LMX unpowered the chassis feels resonably efficient and it rolls very well.

Merlin said:
Damn.... Sucks not having the option to try a 64 with latest controller.
Those pseudo Pas with nuc doesn't work well.

The new Silixcon controller responds just as I want a torque based system to work with little or no lag starting or stopping. The main problem so far is the PAS can drop out every so often when shifting from 5 (100%) to PAS 4. Adam is working on a better comms cable to the controller, so hope that fixes that bug.

Coming from a BBSHD, I know what you mean by chain massacre. Plus the power delivery was so choppy and poor for technical riding, it was a major improvement when I pulled the controller and unlugged the PAS cable
 
Damn CD, lots of zip ties and heat shrink. Your designed torque blocks were the answer. I still have them and they will be on the Bomber one day when I get it rebuilt.

@ Brian, yah, it would be hard pressed to beat Adam's design.

@ Merlin. Thats a tough dilemma for your daughter. If your kid is growing like my kid, in 2 years this wont be an issue.
 
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