E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

I'm still experiencing belt slippage on the new 14t motor pulley. I'm running the latest hardware from LMX and a carbon belt but still experience slippage even in mode 3 of 5. The belt is holding up and looks good, but the slippage is really loud and annoying. Am i the only one experience this or does everybody else have the same problem?? I would prefer a 15t motor pulley to avoid this, even though i loose some torque in low speed climbing.
Not noticing that often at all @TorEddy. Maybe I'm just lucky... Still using the front sprocket that came with the belt kit. I felt it happen but it's nothing I notice that often. Mostly run the bike on mode 2 or 3. Does it happen with throttle applied or even when pedaling?

Instead I have issues sometimes with the bike adding power even though I'm not pedaling (throttle removed)
The controller gives me like max power making for some interesting moments. I can also have the opposite, I'm not getting any power at all for a brief moment. Anyone know what that is all about?

Also swapped fork for a Zeb Ultimate (190mm). The old one almost came apart and I couldn't find any spare parts for it.


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Not noticing that often at all @TorEddy. Maybe I'm just lucky... Still using the front sprocket that came with the belt kit. I felt it happen but it's nothing I notice that often. Mostly run the bike on mode 2 or 3. Does it happen with throttle applied or even when pedaling?

Instead I have issues sometimes with the bike adding power even though I'm not pedaling (throttle removed)
The controller gives me like max power making for some interesting moments. I can also have the opposite, I'm not getting any power at all for a brief moment. Anyone know what that is all about?

Also swapped fork for a Zeb Ultimate (190mm). The old one almost came apart and I couldn't find any spare parts for it.


View attachment 339874

It's not a very big problem, but it happens all to often and is quite annoying. Even when pedaling in mode 3 this can happen.

Congrats with the new forks. Did the same upgrade myself, but with 180mm travel.
Regarding the unwanted motor input, this probably comes from a defective torque sensor in the bottombracket. I had the same issue myself. Got a new one (out with motor and controller) and a remote re-programming of the controller did the trick!
 
Got a new one (out with motor and controller) and a remote re-programming of the controller did the trick!
I've just switched over myself (photo's coming), but I've got issues with it only providing meaningful PAS up to around 20kph. I suspect the V/NM setting is wrong....any chance you can sent a photo of your PAS settings?

Cheers
 
It's not a very big problem, but it happens all to often and is quite annoying. Even when pedaling in mode 3 this can happen.

Congrats with the new forks. Did the same upgrade myself, but with 180mm travel.
Regarding the unwanted motor input, this probably comes from a defective torque sensor in the bottombracket. I had the same issue myself. Got a new one (out with motor and controller) and a remote re-programming of the controller did the trick!
I could do with a guide on replacing that :) Can I ask you to send some more detailed instructions?
Did you order the torque sensor from LMX? How come it needs reprogramming since the firmware is already written in the ECU?
Cheers!
 
As promised here's some photo's of me having finally switched over to the carbon belt, 40mm motor and new rear rim that I've been meaning to get around to for nearly a year. I took the opportunity to try and better thermally bond the motor and controller to the frame when installing I sandwiched thermal padding between them where I could.
I also took it out for a spin. I'll let the photo's do the talking. :)

Cheers
 

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  • Cheers
Reactions: Rix
As promised here's some photo's of me having finally switched over to the carbon belt, 40mm motor and new rear rim that I've been meaning to get around to for nearly a year. I took the opportunity to try and better thermally bond the motor and controller to the frame when installing I sandwiched thermal padding between them where I could.
I also took it out for a spin. I'll let the photo's do the talking. :)

Cheers
Hi CD, have you noticed any change with the 40mm motor. I have one which I haven‘t fitted yet too.
 
Hi CD, have you noticed any change with the 40mm motor. I have one which I haven‘t fitted yet too.
Hard to say. I think there is slightly more torque, however it definitely heats up less. Totally guessing, but I would say about 10-20% less heat. That could be why it seems to have more torque. Less heat = more power to the ground. That being said, I did make the additional modification with the thermal padding mentioned above. That combined with my existing cooling fan set-up means I should rarely reach thermal cut-off.

I really need to sort out my battery next....the old Panasonic/Sanyo GA 3.5AH cells in my 14S5P is really not happy. It hasn't really done many cycles, but they've been really hard cycles and it sags really bad and only lasts about 35-45km at most these days.
I'm still hoping to fit a decent capacity pack, but may not go all out like I was previously thinking.
I have some Samsung 50S 5AH 2170 cells and it looks like it might be possible to fit 5 staggered across the width of the frame with minimal padding. I'm hoping for 15S5P which would be about 1.4KWh and not be too massive looking in the frame. I might also setup the old battery to be mounted under the down tube like others have done in the past for an optional combined capacity of about 2.2KWh.

Cheers
 
Hi CD.
I really need help with batteries. I have no idea and want more power. I‘m very close to cutting the side frame to allow a sideways slip in and strengthening the frame with a stainless steel flat linear bearing guide under the battery holder. Or on the outside. It would allow a much bigger battery to be inserted. I‘m more than positive the stainless steel 0.4cm 8cm wide (the full length cut to suit) thick sheet with 20 or more screws over the entire length and width would be enough to equal the removed side panel. Then a real big battery can be inserted.
 
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Hi CD.
I really need help with batteries. I have no idea and want more power. I‘m very close to cutting the side frame to allow a sideways slip in and strengthening the frame with a stainless steel flat linear bearing guide under the battery holder. Or on the outside. It would allow a much bigger battery to be inserted. I‘m more than positive the stainless steel 0.4cm 8cm wide (the full length cut to suit) thick sheet with 20 or more screws over the entire length and width would be enough to equal the removed side panel. Then a real big battery can be inserted.
I would not recommend cutting the frame. It's unnecessary.

As mentioned, it should be possible to fit 5 2170 cells across the frame, laying down. This gives clearance for cables/bolts and also lets the cells be stacked in such a way as to allow a second pack to sit on top. Hard to explain, but I'm 90% sure it will work.
I'm really busy for the next number of months, but maybe sometime next year I will have a go at building something.

Seriously, don't cut the frame....you would regret that!

Cheers
 
I've upgraded my LMX with a super bright dual tone light. I'll let the pictures do talking.
DSC_7853.JPGDSC_7854.JPGDSC_7855.JPGDSC_7856.JPG
I also took the opportunity while build another battery to see what might fit. Not sure why I thought 5 2170 cells across would fit...maybe I was thinking 18650. Anyway, looks like 4 across by 5 tall should fit comfortably, and then up to 5 to 6 high once the shark case battery carriage is removed. It may require motor install after the battery, and the 6 high will only work well lower down.
This should mean it is possible to do 14/15S8P if a split pack is used for the upper most cells for 40AH or 2Kwh+ when using the 50S cells like these.
DSC_7859.JPGDSC_7861.JPGDSC_7862.JPGDSC_7863.JPG


Cheers
 
Looks good CD, I've got a stack of 40t cells to build a pac, but planning a different shape..

It's been a while since I've done the measurements (on my large frame LMX) but it looked like I could do a 16s8p in a single pack in a 16 cell long by 8 cells offset stack shape. It may require the shock removed to get it in, but that's not a problem for me.

Also good to see you got the 30mm motor programmed with the Nuc. Might have to get some tips from you when I program my 24f to my 50mm Lightning Rods motor.
 
Thanks. Yeah, we should definitely compare what's possible. I wouldn't mind removing the shock or motor to install a pack either.

I still haven't figured out my PAS issues since moving over to the 40mm motor, but I think that's related to the BB torque sensor change. Does anyone know the NM/V settings for the updated torque sensor?

Cheers
 
Why not stand the batteries up-right and have layer on top (laying down) or tripple layer if it fits. I still think you can get more in if the side frame is reduced and then strengthened.The whole space could be filled.
 
Why not stand the batteries up-right and have layer on top (laying down) or tripple layer if it fits. I still think you can get more in if the side frame is reduced and then strengthened.The whole space could be filled.
You could be right. I will need to try it and see.
Sure you could fit more if you reduced the frame, but you could also just split the pack into two halves....that would be my preference if needed.

Cheers
 
I still cannot get my PAS working properly with the new BB Torque sensor from LMX. Here are my Nucular settings....does anyone else with a Nucular have the newer BB torque sensor working ok?

My issue specifically is that I cannot get it to provide assist above about 20-25kph. I tried adjusting literally every setting individually without success, so I suspect it may be a combination of bad settings.

Cheers
 

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Good morning
Does anyone have instructions on how to disassemble the cranks and safely remove everything without damaging the pressure sensor? While pedaling. there is a slight grating sound. I would like to regrease or replace the bearings.
Thank you in advance.
 
I still cannot get my PAS working properly with the new BB Torque sensor from LMX. Here are my Nucular settings....does anyone else with a Nucular have the newer BB torque sensor working ok?

My issue specifically is that I cannot get it to provide assist above about 20-25kph. I tried adjusting literally every setting individually without success, so I suspect it may be a combination of bad settings.

Cheers
Sounds like a speed limit may be in action cutting off assist over a certain speed.
If so that would not be a PAS setting but a general one.
 
My issue specifically is that I cannot get it to provide assist above about 20-25kph.
Are you still able to generate torque on the pedals at that point? If so, then it's unlikely to be a sensor setting/issue, if it's working below that speed.

Would more likely be, as noted by scrambler, some more general setting--if there is a limit somewhere else that's specific to either speed or power/current/etc just for PAS control, vs throttle control (assuming throttle will correctly operate above this speed).
 
Sounds like a speed limit may be in action cutting off assist over a certain speed.
If so that would not be a PAS setting but a general one.
Yeah, but throttle still works normally. Have also checked the advanced profiles to rule that out and it should not be cutting out.

Are you still able to generate torque on the pedals at that point? If so, then it's unlikely to be a sensor setting/issue, if it's working below that speed.

Would more likely be, as noted by scrambler, some more general setting--if there is a limit somewhere else that's specific to either speed or power/current/etc just for PAS control, vs throttle control (assuming throttle will correctly operate above this speed).
Not able to generate torque from the motor after that point. It tapers off. Keep in mind the previous torque sensor BB worked fine with the same controller config. That makes me think it must be a V/NM or similar setting.

What I need is someone else who has installed the same BB and a Nucular to take a photo of their PAS setup screen.
Anyone?

Cheers
 
Not able to generate torque from the motor after that point. It tapers off. Keep in mind the previous torque sensor BB worked fine with the same controller config. That makes me think it must be a V/NM or similar setting.
What are the specific differences between the one you used before, and this one? Knowing those, we could figure out what needs to be changed.
 
What are the specific differences between the one you used before, and this one? Knowing those, we could figure out what needs to be changed.
I wish I knew....came from LMX over a year ago due to faults with the previous. I must admit I didn't take note of differences before installing...just assumed it would work the same.
Others here also have had some sent/replaced...so hoping someone else with the Nucular might know how to set it up.

Cheers
 
Well, while it's possible there isn't any, there *should* be part numbers on them that can be looked up for datasheets that should have sufficient information on the designs to tell what's different. ;)
 
These are my settings from a few years ago. I haven’t checked them for a while. I changed the PAS filter to 2 kHz and the PAS time out to 0.02. That fixed the power continuation after I stopped peddling.
That grinding noise. We’re had that before. I thought it was the bearing. It turned out to be the front pulley wheel and woodruff key. It had become loose and was moving around on the shaft. Took it off. Put it back on with the key centered and the noise was gone.
 

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