Hi. Today arrived my belt kit. I didnt start installation yet, but first impression was good except instructions was missing again ( controller upgrade was also missing instruction). But its not problem because everytime Adam has given support and later sending instructions by email. Thanks to Adam. These upgrades propably so new that they didnt have time to make products perfect yet.. is there something special what i should know when installing? Brake disc locking nut can be tight and front sprocket might need pulling device.. anything else?
E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners
- Thread starter Cowardlyduck
- Start date
hkj
100 W
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2018
- Messages
- 106
Yeah that's about it! It's handy to have a friend to assist with some things. Get a gear puller with thin claws, it's a tight fit behind the gear. Also, the lock nut was a real challenge to get loose. A lot of locktight on it! There's a manual I got from Adam, you can just email him and have it be sent over.
It covers removal of back wheel, tire change procedure and belt drive installation. Some pages are in French but it was allright.
What are the changes I need to make to the Nucular?
It covers removal of back wheel, tire change procedure and belt drive installation. Some pages are in French but it was allright.
What are the changes I need to make to the Nucular?
Thanks. I will ask Adam to send it. About controller, i upgraded nucular to silixcon. After upgrade i feel that motor torque is perfect and also pas works super.. otherwise i mainly ride my bike with throttle and max power (enduro/throttle) so i dont need pas so much. But anyway its nice to have it if going ”seightseeing trip”
. I like nucular much and nice thing is that you dont need laptop to parametrize. Silixcon have lot of opportunities to modify parameters and display. silixcon have more mosfets to have smooth curve, and better torque.. next upgrade might be new front. Suntour is good but if have little damage when chrashing and it needs maintenance again anyway. Can anyone recommend 38mm T-fork?
. I like nucular much and nice thing is that you dont need laptop to parametrize. Silixcon have lot of opportunities to modify parameters and display. silixcon have more mosfets to have smooth curve, and better torque.. next upgrade might be new front. Suntour is good but if have little damage when chrashing and it needs maintenance again anyway. Can anyone recommend 38mm T-fork?
Yeah hjk I also saw that speed drop. Just turn up the field weakening to 150% and you'll get top speed back. Not efficient though... Sucks the battery dry in no time.
On another note, I've been noticing my rear wheel spokes 'tinging' after a ride. I tried tighrening them a half turn, but still happens. Is that normal and should I tighten more?
Cheers
On another note, I've been noticing my rear wheel spokes 'tinging' after a ride. I tried tighrening them a half turn, but still happens. Is that normal and should I tighten more?
Cheers
briangv99
1 kW
Cowardlyduck said:
Hey CD, part of sucking the battery might be going 50 instead of 40ish :wink: .
the silixcon field weakening kicks in at about 35, but it's hard to quantify the efficiency hit
PS - Spokes may be just settling in after retentioning. Just check by hand if they all feel tight or tap lightly with a screwdriver to make sure there's none loose
briangv99 said:
Hi Brian
Have you noticed the drop in top speed with your belt drive, I know you have the silixcon controller like me.
I am not sure we have the same access to the silixcon controller variables as what the old controller has.
Also is any one using a dual crown fork?
hkj
100 W
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2018
- Messages
- 106
Thanks CD, where in the myriad of menus can I find the setting?
Also, is there another way than increasing FW to regain top speed? I presume the belt system is heavier to move than the chain drive and as a consequence, top speed is reduced?
Is the overall distance affected much by the belt drive? (with default FW?)
Also, is there another way than increasing FW to regain top speed? I presume the belt system is heavier to move than the chain drive and as a consequence, top speed is reduced?
Is the overall distance affected much by the belt drive? (with default FW?)
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
I'm really not sure what causes this drop in top speed.
The reduction ration is a little lower with the belt, but only very slightly : 0.118 VS 0.12
Another tester has reported drop in power and top speed also. For the top speed I did not notice it on our test bikes W/silixcon, and power we tested with the IR camera to see if any heating was visible but it was not the case, so I'm wondering where the power could be dropped.
Adam
The reduction ration is a little lower with the belt, but only very slightly : 0.118 VS 0.12
Another tester has reported drop in power and top speed also. For the top speed I did not notice it on our test bikes W/silixcon, and power we tested with the IR camera to see if any heating was visible but it was not the case, so I'm wondering where the power could be dropped.
Adam
So true. Part of me just wants more speed all the time, but there's a reason I sold my crazy Fighter and Alpha that could do 100kph+.briangv99 said:
Thanks for the tip!briangv99 said:
All the settings can be found under here: http://wiki.nucular.tech/en:controller-setuphkj said:
What your after is under Control modes>Field weakening setup
Assuming your motor is tuned correctly, there isn't any other way to increase speed apart from changing the sprocket sizes.
I haven't noticed and reduction in range compared to the chain, but I didn't run the chain for very long.
It is a mystery to be honest. I was able to get mine back by setting 150% FW and increased the FW amps to 50, but it's horribly inefficient. I don't mind so much since I don't use mode 3 too much which just drains the battery in no time.bzhwindtalker said:
I still think it's possible the motor's are not perfectly tuned with the Nucular. I had never ending similar issues with my FOC Adaptto's over the years. It was never possible to get them perfectly tuned and they could never run at optimal efficiency or proper rated speed as a result. In the end I just settled for close enough and lived with it...seems the Nucular may be the same.
Cheers
briangv99
1 kW
Simonten said:
Hi Simon,
Top speed is identical, power feels much the same (maybe a tiny bit more torque if anything) and my range is the same as before.
Maybe the drop in top speed for the Nucular LMXs with belt drives was coincidentally the same time as a firmware update?
Yes that is possibly part of it, however there was definitely a further drop in speed directly attributable to the belt swap.briangv99 said:
What tooth front sprocket were you running on the chain? I think I was on a 12T...could that be a factor?
Cheers
briangv99
1 kW
Cowardlyduck said:
12t 100t when running chain
Simonten said:
About 50kph chain or belt, measured by GPS app. I found I needed to drop the wheel size on the display all the way down to 24" to get it anywhere near accurate. When I ran the bike out of the box it was reading up to 60kph, which seemed optimistic, as it turned out it was
PS - CD's bike runs pretty much identical top speed when chasing him with his Nucular set to mode 3 150% FW
Yes, plenty, but you made me wonder if there is a further update so I checked...hkj said:
http://wiki.nucular.tech/en:firmware
Edit...my dates were wrong...I did install this firmware last time around. So no new updates since, but it's still probably worth the update IMO.
Also, looking back through my posts around this, I previously discovered the wheel size was incorrectly set, and fixing it also fixed my 'speed' issue:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100198&start=450#p1539218
So anyone noticing weirdness with the speed...make sure your wheel size is set correctly first.
Cheers
briangv99
1 kW
Simonten said:
The wheel size can be accessed on the menu screen (push and hold the m button for 2 seconds I think), but you only have fixed choices 24, 26, 27.5, 28 and 29 from memory
There's a few things to like...neutral power mode, ability to more finely control power modes (e.g. disabling PAS in mode 3) and a few others.hkj said:
Worth it IMO, but don't bother if your worried about bricking it.
Cheers
courcheval
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2011
- Messages
- 140
Got my first ride today on the 64h, half off road half tarmac over 30 km. Got me worried since the motor overheated at fairly low gradient (10%) on tarmac on mode 4. I had to go back to mode 3 to be able to climb at aroud 20 kmh. It never happened with the supercharged Big Hit nor with the bomber on that section. I could reach 45 kmh on flat road, but those speed while climbing are not tolerated by the motor. I m not too optimistic for riding to the moutain peaks at low speed with 15 to 25% gradients after that experience, which was of course impossible with the bomber (rear motor) but fairly easy with the 1000w Big Hit .
.jimmywazer
10 mW
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2020
- Messages
- 26
courcheval said:Got my first ride today on the 64h, half off road half tarmac over 30 km. Got me worried since the motor overheated at fairly low gradient (10%) on tarmac on mode 4. I had to go back to mode 3 to be able to climb at aroud 20 kmh. It never happened with the supercharged Big Hit nor with the bomber on that section. I could reach 45 kmh on flat road, but those speed while climbing are not tolerated by the motor. I m not too optimistic for riding to the moutain peaks at low speed with 15 to 25% gradients after that experience, which was of course impossible with the bomber (rear motor) but fairly easy with the 1000w Big Hit
I have the same problem... since I live in the alps, almost all climbs are above 15% gradient. I contacted Adam and he suggested me the 40mm Motor which I ordered (+ dual crown fork). I also asked for a bigger rear sprocket but they didn't have any on stock...
hkj said:
Also had this problem but after the software update it worked. (I also left the SD card in)
