Help identify hub motor brand

[Bikengineer]

Hi just bought my first electric bike which is probably my 30th bicycle?
Anyway I bought from an army bloke in Brisbane and don't know what brand the motor is?

The motor works fine although isn't very powerful.
It's 24v and 180w on motor.
It's 24v brushless controller 13.5A limit.
No battery but I've tested with 2x12v lead acid batteries.

I want to buy a new battery and am thinking upgrade to 36v lifepo4
That presumably also means a new controller.

Also kicking around idea of a second motor on front wheel and a longtail cargo conversion.

 

[NeilP]

Edited and deleted earlier post to avoid my embarrassment of not reading your post..just looking at the title and the pics.


motor is irrelevant to the voltage you run at

You could run the motor at 200 volt if you wanted...you would need to keep the current down though in order to keep POWER limits low.

It is the power (heat) dissipation that is more the issue. Run at too high power levels and current then you can cook the windings.

More voltage gives you more speed.

if you increase the voltage you would need to reduce the current..Since Power = Voltage x Current


The limiting factor to voltage is the controller not the motor.

I'd be 99.9% certain that the controller will be good for 36 volts.
It wold probably be good for up to 48 to 50 volts.
two ways to tell:

increase the voltage till it goes pop

or

open it up and read the figures on the capacitors and the model number of the MOSFETS

 

[d8veh]

Nearly all 24v controllers can work with 36v, so just go ahead and try it. If it pops, you haven't lost anything. The motor is a a generic Chinese one. There's many brands that share that case. It won't have any trouble with 36v.

 

[Bikengineer]

Yes I need parts. The battery was stolen before I bought it so I need to buy a battery.
The battery terminal connection, battery lock and controller mount are damaged as a result of theft.
I'd like to fit new battery in original location and have a rough idea of range/speed prior to purchasing.

Having only tested bike using 30kg of batteries tied onto rear it performed poorly and I'd like to upgrade at same time getting more torque and speed. I figured best upgrade path would be a new 36v battery feeding 24v motor. Not sure how much I can over-volt the no brand motor without smoking it. The cost of a 24v battery I saw on eBay that might work is $440 which is twice the price of the bike frame, motor/wheels and controller.

By the way 24" wheels and the brakes are labelled Wuxing.

 

[Bikengineer]

Thanks NeilP and d8veh.
Will get 36v battery and try it out with existing controller.
The 36v seem more prolific in that shape format than the 24v, if it does fry motor I have an excuse to buy a bigger motor.

 

[NeilP]

Like I said earlier you won't over volt the motor. The motor is totally voltage independant

it is the controller you may have the voltage issues with. if you try to go over 40 or 50 volts..It may well be good to 63 volts...but 36..almost cetainly no issues

 

[NeilP]

Oh yes...I forgot
I know you said Brisbane in your original post so for this particular post we know you are in Oz...but for future reference for others to attempt to hlep you ...they may be living next door to you

 

[dogman dan]

That type of motor is typically able to stand 36v, with a 15 amps controller with no problems. You will be illegal at that power level in AU, but if you ride nice it's not so likely cops will care.

So look at 36v batteries, in about 10 ah size. If the controller pops, then look at smaller 36v controllers. 20 amps will make you buy a bigger more expensive battery.

You should see about 4 mph more speed, going to 36v, and be able to climb hills better.

 

[wesnewell]

The motor brand is Force Nine, from Royal Electrical and Mechanical Technology Co., Ltd.
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&u=http://qipei.hangye8.com/xuanjia/884539.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwy24v180w%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3Dwtq%26rls%3Dcom.mandriva:en-USfficial

 

[Bikengineer]

Cheers dogman and wesnewell.
Now confidant I can run 36v without drama. Not too concerned going above 200w or 250w as the motor will still have 180w stamped on it and will be carrying cargo (my twin sons).

 

[dogman dan]

Lugging that much weight, you could easily fry the motor at 24v.

Beware of riding too slow under heavy load at full throttle. Like up a long steep hill. You'll have to pedal hard, to try to keep speed well above 50% of what your top speed is normally, without the kids.

You can go slow all you want though, when the load is light. Its when full throttle still won't get you going that you heat motors. So if half throttle is all you need with the kids on, then you just need to keep your speed above a crawl.

 

[n3glv]

Yes I need parts. The battery was stolen before I bought it so I need to buy a battery.
The battery terminal connection, battery lock and controller mount are damaged as a result of theft.
I'd like to fit new battery in original location and have a rough idea of range/speed prior to purchasing.

Having only tested bike using 30kg of batteries tied onto rear it performed poorly and I'd like to upgrade at same time getting more torque and speed. I figured best upgrade path would be a new 36v battery feeding 24v motor. Not sure how much I can over-volt the no brand motor without smoking it. The cost of a 24v battery I saw on eBay that might work is $440 which is twice the price of the bike frame, motor/wheels and controller.

By the way 24" wheels and the brakes are labelled Wuxing.

If you do the math on that 13.5A controller it's about 324w @ 24v
That's not a ton, a standard '450w' currie 24v brushed controller is 35A.
Lighter battery tech will help, but a stiffer / higher current motor controller will help a LOT.
(till the motor burns up)

 

[Samd]

Hi Bikeengineer, I just had a customer cancel an order for two bottle batteries but left me a small deposit. So I have a couple of 36v ones here in Ballarat going kinda cheap. PM me if you want to find out more about one. Should suit ok, at about 15 amps.

Cheers.

 

[Bikengineer]

Got battery today (thanks Samd). These things are more fun than they should be.
Stripped all dead weight eg. Racks, mudguards etc. and in a rush to get moving duct taped battery, controller and wires.
After a quick visit to Jaycar for $2.75 worth of connectors I Did about 10-15km without breaking a sweat in midday sun and gave my brother and wife a go also. Went for a night ride just now with headlight.

Not sure top speed but I did 4km in 10 minutes which included a hill so that's average 24kmh.
Range seems ok and the hub didn't seem hot so 36v goes into 24v well in this case.
Bike is singlespeed which is good for starts and hills but too low for pedal assist.

 

[Samd]

Glad to hear about the outcome. An 11 tooth cog up back is a great addition if you can find one on that particular bike. Lots of workarounds for it on here so i won't spoil the fun!

 

[Bikengineer]

Tested out today using iphone as GPS and timer.
Average speed over 25km distance = 24kmh
Max Speed = 28kmh
Range = 25km
My commute 25.2km !
Alternative Cost in Diesel = AUD$5

 

[d8veh]

How have you held the battery in place? It looks very tidy.

 

[teklektik]

Gee - that has to be one of the quickest/slickest Lazarus maneuvers posted!
Looks pretty sweet - well done!

 

[Samd]

Hey that battery ended up looking really good - well done! Sweet fit.

You can usually dish a 24v motor up a few more amps by flipping the controller end off and soldering the shunt on the controller. Assuming the controller isn't pulling 15 amps now then it's worth a thought. Same top speed, a bit more acceleration.

That battery's circuit breaker will trip at about 15 amps, at 41 volts full charge thats about 600 watts from the batt. I've done it on two other kinds of 24v hubs, they held up ok.

The battery is 333 watt hours, so about 10 cents to charge it if you're paying about 30 cents a kilowatt hour for juice.

Looks slick mate.

 

[Bikengineer]

I tapped 3 threads into steel frame seat tube. And then bolted the battery frame onto bike.
Also grinded off some unused mounts so that controller could be repositioned on chainstay bridge.

Have since got an alloy pannier and rear basket. The overvolting melted 24v headlight so I put a better LED headlight on.
Might yet try the 'shunt' solder thing.

 

[Bikengineer]

Rack, battery, light

 

[999zip999]

Just keep the battery charged and I don't like over discharging the battery over discharging means more time on the charger for good battery balance after charger light comes on. It gives the bms time to balance the battery.