drip loop, huh? if this is mandatory, why am just hearing about it now?? why didn't somebody call me?
makes perfect sense. the axle is hollow and leads right inside the motor. probably good to prevent water intrusion.
i noticed surface rust on the ID of the axle leading into the motor after a couple wet rides. Now I'm having nightmares of slushy, rusty water swirling around inside my motor.
So I followed along and tested my halls. Didn't know they were halls until reading this, but that makes sense too. B/c motor is brushless it needs multiple windings and must energize them in proper sequence.
My 5 wire connector has red/black/yel/blue/grn wires.
red to black- 4.28V
black to yel/blue/grn- all approx the same- .03V to .04V off, 5.00x on. By 5.00x i mean 5.004, 5.003, etc. very close to exactly 5v.
That seems a little strange though, since the input is only 4.28V, but I'm not sure exactly how halls work.
One other thing I tried was switching 2 of the field wires. Like that, the motor did not make the shudder but just locked. I spun the wheel by hand then applied throttle and the motor acted like a brake, stopping the wheel immediately.
Connected properly, the motor still locks but makes the protesting shudder noise/vibration.
I guess I'll dust off the road bike for tomorrow's commute. I'm gonna miss my electric assist..