Is my late 90's frame too old to build up?
- Thread starter GRIZZ
- Start date
999zip999
100 TW
I thought there wouldn't be enough clearance using whole number 3 or the top hole. Yes I've seen it before on suspension bikes extra holes extra things and can not to be used. How about that convex downtube ? This was an expensive bike in the day.
if in the top hole what is it would make the bike taller? add more suspension travel if with the right shock.
if in the top hole what is it would make the bike taller? add more suspension travel if with the right shock.
markz
100 TW
Well yeah lots of things from eons ago were expensive
That does not mean they were good or decent or had excellent handling compared to the new stuff of today. It usually meant there was something unique that some architect or engineer had a wet dream over and decided to implement it for a design element or "to be different"
I see that in home architecture, some multi-million dollar eye sore on the ridge that some non-local architect had a wet dream over, those punks are usually from Europe or has some accent but located in USA.
Same thing goes for bicycles, some moron decides to build a bike on a unique bb size that is no longer sold, screwing over the guy who buys it. Or better yet, some engineer thinks the looks of a certain rear suspension geometry beats out the functionality and slaps a premium price on it because the brand demands it.
That does not mean they were good or decent or had excellent handling compared to the new stuff of today. It usually meant there was something unique that some architect or engineer had a wet dream over and decided to implement it for a design element or "to be different"
I see that in home architecture, some multi-million dollar eye sore on the ridge that some non-local architect had a wet dream over, those punks are usually from Europe or has some accent but located in USA.
Same thing goes for bicycles, some moron decides to build a bike on a unique bb size that is no longer sold, screwing over the guy who buys it. Or better yet, some engineer thinks the looks of a certain rear suspension geometry beats out the functionality and slaps a premium price on it because the brand demands it.
donn said:
Value might matter if you wanted to sell it, but value to the owner is higher, by giving it a second life as an ebike. It's a lot better than letting it age away in the corner of the garage. It's not like a Shelby Cobra, that you'd wax, look at and admire, while saving up money for gas to drive it.
E-HP said:
Sure, if that's the case. For me, it wasn't - different situation with a very different bicycle, an early Ryan Vanguard recumbent. I don't expect it to ever have any monetary value even if I wanted to sell it, but it's still a gas to ride it, and it's a lot better ride without all that motor junk strapped to it. I found a better recumbent to motorize, and put the old one back the way it was.
Thank you for all the comments, its a lot to ingest.
I think the general consensus is its a doable project. The bike has sentimental value, but there is too many blemishes to have collectors value, I'd rather ride it.
It was very unique the year it was sold because rear suspension was only on top of the line race bikes and everyone was inventing their own styles with crazy linkages. I opted for the simple triangle because it looked more rugged and I was a Toby Henderson fan (he raced under the Iron Horse brand at the time). https://mbaction.com/down-the-trail-the-1997-superbike-sneak-peek/ <--the late 90s was my peak riding. I'd race down the ski slopes in NH and read the MTB mags endlessly. Now I'm teaching the next generation of rider how to petal.
I think the course now is:
1. Choose between Mid or Rear Drive, controller, and battery.
2. Buy e-Components
3. Install rear or pay a shop to install if mid. (Mass. USA)
4. replace brake pads and add booster arch.
5. Replace lines.
6. Replace shifter.
7. Look for a used front fork that supports disk brakes.
Sound about right?
I think the general consensus is its a doable project. The bike has sentimental value, but there is too many blemishes to have collectors value, I'd rather ride it.
It was very unique the year it was sold because rear suspension was only on top of the line race bikes and everyone was inventing their own styles with crazy linkages. I opted for the simple triangle because it looked more rugged and I was a Toby Henderson fan (he raced under the Iron Horse brand at the time). https://mbaction.com/down-the-trail-the-1997-superbike-sneak-peek/ <--the late 90s was my peak riding. I'd race down the ski slopes in NH and read the MTB mags endlessly. Now I'm teaching the next generation of rider how to petal.
I think the course now is:
1. Choose between Mid or Rear Drive, controller, and battery.
2. Buy e-Components
3. Install rear or pay a shop to install if mid. (Mass. USA)
4. replace brake pads and add booster arch.
5. Replace lines.
6. Replace shifter.
7. Look for a used front fork that supports disk brakes.
Sound about right?
Eastwood said:
Thanks for the suggestions, this really helps me understand what's needed. I'd be happy with budget/used parts because I'm no longer bombing down ski slopes so these parts should be more than adequate.
If I replace the whole front end would it be weird to have a fat tire front and skinny rear?
Chalo
100 TW
GRIZZ said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143944249144
It keeps your brake posts from flexing outwards as much, especially if they're mounted to tubes that are not so stiff.
The fork doesn't have to support disc brakes. It just has to not be collapsed. Look for something with less than 100mm of travel so it won't jack up your bike's frame too much.
Chalo said:
Thanks. I feel with every answer there's more questions.
If I go with a mid-drive do I loose all the chain rings in the front? All the photos looks like you loose the front derailer.
If I went rear drive would I loose gears there?
Chalo
100 TW
GRIZZ said:
Short answer is yes. You won't need the extra low gears once you have a boost from the motor, though. And recent tech developments in the MTB world have made front shifting irrelevant anyway, in case you do want more gear range for some reason.
It gets complicated to use more than 7 speeds on most rear hub motors, since they're threaded and spaced for 7 speed freewheels. But there are some rear hub motors that have splines for 8/9/10 speed cassettes. So you can find something that will work with whatever your bike has now.
MadRhino
100 GW
All BB drives are single chainring. Doesn’t mean it is impossible to solve, only that it is not a priority anymore with a motor. Same for the rear, I mean most ebike riders are using very few cogs and high power rear hub builds are generally single. But, BB drives are coming soon with integrated gearbox, then it is the rear that will be single, or you will have an awful lot of speeds to play with endlessly. 
Mid drives don’t need to use the bicycle drivetrain. Many are building mid drives on the left side, leaving all the drivetrain components intact.
Mid drives don’t need to use the bicycle drivetrain. Many are building mid drives on the left side, leaving all the drivetrain components intact.
markz
100 TW
The OP's bike is a typical bike you'd find abandoned somewhere.
Good for stripping parts off of or take and build up
Whatever your circumstances are.
I have to many tote boxes full of parts I stripped from abandoned bikes.
Good for stripping parts off of or take and build up
Whatever your circumstances are.
I have to many tote boxes full of parts I stripped from abandoned bikes.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
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GRIZZ said:
I’d keep the same, You should be able to fit these tires. They’re ebike rated tires so they can handle higher speeds and heavier loads. I push them 50mph haven’t had any issues.
These are the 2.4 inch which they aren’t actually 2.4”.. I use these tires in the 2.8 version and they measure right at 2.5 installed inflated.
https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Moto-X-Fahrrad-Reifen-62-559/dp/B096LZMYDF
Another popular choice is the "hookworm" but I don’t even know if those are E bike rated.
OK, after reading all day I'm pretty confident I should spend a little more and go with a mid drive.
It seems the popular motor brand is Bafang, is this correct?
I'm not sure what size motor or battery to get. The ElectricBikeSimulator tool is designed for hub motors.
I weigh 156lbs (70kg) and I really would like a top speed of 30Mph (48kmh) likely with pedaling.
The simulator says I should get a 48v system if I was buying a hub motor. But what volt mid-motor should I be looking at?
Also how do you choose how many tooth chainring? It seems the default on some sites is 46T.
It seems the popular motor brand is Bafang, is this correct?
I'm not sure what size motor or battery to get. The ElectricBikeSimulator tool is designed for hub motors.
I weigh 156lbs (70kg) and I really would like a top speed of 30Mph (48kmh) likely with pedaling.
The simulator says I should get a 48v system if I was buying a hub motor. But what volt mid-motor should I be looking at?
Also how do you choose how many tooth chainring? It seems the default on some sites is 46T.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,479
Well I wouldn’t put a mid drive on that bike, too much stress on that old frame. Hub motors are literally zero maintenance while mid drives you will need to maintenance The motor. You’ll also have to stay on top of your drivetrain since the motor spins the chain. A.k.a. snap a chain and get stuck lol
So yet for the bike you’re looking at converting I would 100% use a hub drive. If you were creating an aggressive mountain bike that was completely trail worthy I would say mid drive but with a stronger frame.
So yet for the bike you’re looking at converting I would 100% use a hub drive. If you were creating an aggressive mountain bike that was completely trail worthy I would say mid drive but with a stronger frame.
999zip999
100 TW
Check out the lunar cycle website bangfang one thousand watt and 1500 watt kit . And has a ton of accessories you can look at and figure out. Get a pencil piece of paper and write it down.
Best feature of your frame as a candidate for a FS ebike conversion is it has a lot of space for a good size battery. That is usually #1 issue with converting a FS.
Since you like it and it fits you, and has already been battle-scarred, what have you got to lose?
Mid drive can be hard to fit depending on the topography around the BB. Post some photos of the underside and front of the BB area.
Since you like it and it fits you, and has already been battle-scarred, what have you got to lose?
Mid drive can be hard to fit depending on the topography around the BB. Post some photos of the underside and front of the BB area.
markz
100 TW
I have a fat bike with 4" fat rear wheel and a 2.10" front wheel.
I actually dont mind it, was in the river mud 2 weeks ago and it worked out well.
fat front skinny rear would handle weird
I actually dont mind it, was in the river mud 2 weeks ago and it worked out well.
fat front skinny rear would handle weird
I figured it would be similar to a dirtbike set up for sand where wider in the rear is clearly better. I wasn't sure if there were benefits to the reverse that I couldn't see so I asked. It seems no one does it so there's likely no benefits.markz said:
I think I'm pretty decided that I want a Mid-Drive for the climbing power and efficiency. I've watched review and install videos non stop for a couple days and the install is way less intimidating now. And packing a spare chain is no big deal.
I'm thinking of getting the BBS02B mid-drive kit and a 52v battery since my commute is not terribly long.
Motor: https://www.amazon.com/Bafang-Drive-Crank-Electric-Conversion/dp/B07LFZ19LX/
I believe this motor will fit in my 68x110mm Bottom Bracket?
Is this Wallen Battery a solid choice? Wallen Power 52V 13AH IP53 /w 2a charger $280 Or should I seek out a battery with better IPX rating?
https://www.amazon.com/Wallen-Power-Electric-Protection-Conversion/dp/B081GVS3RD/
Is 44t Chainring average for hilly trails?
There is not much difference between these displays, should any be avoided? Is it worth the extra money? I was thinking of 500C because its the cheapest color, but the C965 has a separate buttons which could make it easier to replace if they are prone to wearing out.
I'm thinking of getting the BBS02B mid-drive kit and a 52v battery since my commute is not terribly long.
Motor: https://www.amazon.com/Bafang-Drive-Crank-Electric-Conversion/dp/B07LFZ19LX/
I believe this motor will fit in my 68x110mm Bottom Bracket?
Is this Wallen Battery a solid choice? Wallen Power 52V 13AH IP53 /w 2a charger $280 Or should I seek out a battery with better IPX rating?
https://www.amazon.com/Wallen-Power-Electric-Protection-Conversion/dp/B081GVS3RD/
Is 44t Chainring average for hilly trails?
There is not much difference between these displays, should any be avoided? Is it worth the extra money? I was thinking of 500C because its the cheapest color, but the C965 has a separate buttons which could make it easier to replace if they are prone to wearing out.
IMO, the biggest problem with mid-drives on FS frames is whether the motor can "nest" on the left side or if some protrusion will prevent it. It appears that your frame is the exception and this will not be a problem. I've been riding a BBS02-equipped steel hardtail off road for six years (twice a week, 10 - 15 miles) on pretty hilly, eroded trails in socal; it's neither needed maintenance nor failed. Don't worry about your chain; mine has never been a problem, but just in case carry a multi-tool with a chain breaker and an extra link. Check Suspension Fork Perks if your fork has elastomers and don't worry about the performance unless you're really riding demon-like. Many have used these off road for years.
