Motorino XPn Chinese ebike (scooter)

Ah, I see. I got mine shipped to 5D Packages in Blaine, which is 5 minutes from the border and not that far away from where I live. They only wanted $5/box to receive these. I paid US$132 shipping. It surely would've been a lot more to get them sent to my door with UPS, which can charge quite a lot of brokerage.

Yeah, I agree the connections are nice and splitting them apart can be messy, so if not necessary, then keep them in their original glory.

Did you declare them at their full value of US$1290 to pay the $220?
 
I went into the building and at the counter, I was asked for the bill of sale so I gave it to the agent and I was charged taxes and customs on the amount from the bill of sales. You can't really declare whatever amount you want.
 
Hi Mistercreash,

i got a similar controller, mine is the S (KLS7230S) version. Im guessing the 3 speed switch will no longer work as i dont see any connectors for it. The issue with 12v brake line is no longer applicable to this version, correct? Also does you regen work? im still waiting for it to be shipped but was wondering if there were any issues connecting it if using the manual as specified.
 
markca said:
Hi Mistercreash,

i got a similar controller, mine is the S (KLS7230S) version. I'm guessing the 3 speed switch will no longer work as i dont see any connectors for it. The issue with 12v brake line is no longer applicable to this version, correct? Also does you regen work? im still waiting for it to be shipped but was wondering if there were any issues connecting it if using the manual as specified.
Click to expand...

No 3 speed switch anymore. I still don't know what exactly that 12V brake line is for (pin 25) and I don't know if there are still issues with it. I thought from the manual that sending a 12V signal to pin 25 would activate the regen AND cut power to the motor (this was confirmed by Fany at first that it would work)

The power has to be cut from the motor when the brakes are applied, this is a safety feature that has to work on ebikes in Canada. It did not work, no regen and still power to the motor using pin 25. After talking with Fany at Kelly Controllers about it, and finally determining that pin 25 was doing absolutely nothing on my controller, Fany told me to use pin 2 which works like a charm but, I lost the option to have a boost button. I was contemplating to have the top speed programmed to 32 km/h and have one of the two horn buttons serve as a boost button, releasing the full power of the system on demand. But I can't have both regen and boost working at the same time.

Yes my regen works. It works on two levels, first regen happens whenever I release the throttle completely. The amount of regen is adjusted to your liking by putting a percentage value in ''RLS_TPS Brk %'' which I think is in the second stage of programming. Second, the other level of regen happens when I press a brake lever which activates the brake lever switch sending 12V to the tail light and to pin 2 of the controller which is the variable regen (or boost) function. I think a thumb twist throttle can be used to actually have a variable regen. Mine is just full regen as soon as that 12V signal is sent from the brake switch. Slowing down from full speed by releasing the throttle I see negative amp peaks on the Cycle Analyst of around -20A. Pressing the brake lever, it shoots up to as much as -60A peaks.
 
Just finished installing led into the red trunk reflectors on the original trunk that has the 3 circle logo , took about 35 min to 45 to install sorry image looks strange resizer goofed


image.jpg
 
Awesome thread. Just got same controller and motor. Can't wait.
 
Very nice build, very clean, and those Leaf modules sounds awesome.

For you legal issue, can't you just put a fake sprocket on the left side of the motor axle? The motor shaft doesn't turn anyway so if you just find a way to fix the sprocket directly on it it will look like your bike is still legal, as long as the cops are not expert mechanics.

Maybe you should try that, it would save you the hassle of having to restart everything on a new chassis.
Also, you should probably get better front brakes, at those speeds it starts to become vital and the original ones are usually not that reliable nor powerful enough on these low speed machines.
 
Thanks,
I like things to look factory as much as possible. The Leafs are the best bang for your buck but there are better alternatives. I did put a sprocket on, I just did not post about it. I grinded off the threads and it just slips over the motor shaft and sits there with the chain on. It doesn't fix the legal issue. What's the point of all the time and money spent to keep riding at 32 km/h? The front brake is as powerful as what was on the Yamaha Vino YJ125 which had a top speed of 85 km/h. Actually, the Vino had a single piston caliper, I have a double piston caliper. The Vino had a rear drum brake, I have rear disk brake. And some powerful regen to slow me down, I have no problem stopping.
 
mistercrash said:
Thanks,
I like things to look factory as much as possible. The Leafs are the best bang for your buck but there are better alternatives. I did put a sprocket on, I just did not post about it. I grinded off the threads and it just slips over the motor shaft and sits there with the chain on. It doesn't fix the legal issue. What's the point of all the time and money spent to keep riding at 32 km/h? The front brake is as powerful as what was on the Yamaha Vino YJ125 which had a top speed of 85 km/h. Actually, the Vino had a single piston caliper, I have a double piston caliper. The Vino had a rear drum brake, I have rear disk brake. And some powerful regen to slow me down, I have no problem stopping.
Click to expand...

I don't know how policemen can be annoying in your country so you're probably right.
Where I live, electric bikes are theoretically limited to 25 km/h, but basically no one seems to care about the law and even stock ebikes straight out from factory are going faster than that.

As for the brakes, I speak from my own experience: I had the stock brake calipers for a while, but after a few run they became so hot that the structure of the aluminium they were made of changed. The calipers became basically like rubber, very elastic. Pressing the brake lever was making the caliper itself expand, instead of applying more pressure on the disk and at 50km/h it was taking me about 8 seconds to go to a complete stop (which is very very long). Your calipers look exactly the same as mine did, that's why I prefer to inform you :)

Also, your rims are now 12 inches, so the disk is a bit undersized. But you're the boss of course, that's your machine, I just suggest you taking this into consideration as good brakes are not only safer, but also very fun to use. Acceleration is a great sensation on which people put a lot of time, effort and money, but deceleration is often underrated while it's cheap and easy to achieve :D
 
I wouldn't be too worried about the brakes. I recently took my bike on a 1000km tour across Canada while towing a 350lb+ trailer, carrying my 200lb ass, and at least another 100lb of gear on my backpack and bags. Total weight was over 800lbs, and I was going down a lot of 8% grade hills. I got up to 80kmph going down a mountain and had no troubles whatsoever coming to a stop. The brakes on these motorinos are complete and total overkill.

joh16rN.jpg
 
Holly Motorino! :eek: And I thought I was hardcore for running in the winter. You must have some stories to tell about that trip. This took some extensive planning on your part I bet. You have a list of everything you brought with you? :D
 
I see you have a solar panel what kind of wattage and voltage were you getting from it
 
Yeah, it was a hell of a journey. I had a little blog about it at http://solarnomad.com/

The idea was originally crazy ambitious. I was hoping to be able to charge with solar in a reasonable timeframe and try and see if I could make it all the way to Alaska. Instead, the panels took way too long to charge the bike so they were only ever used in emergencies, and I mostly just charged in towns along the way. With only ~45km range I had to make a lot of stops.

The panels were 300W, but the most I was ever able to get out of them consistently was around 150W. 100W on top of the trailer, and four 50W's folded up inside the trailer, which charge a 100AH AGM lead acid in the trailer, which then charges the bike off lipo balance chargers.

bWKl0O7.jpg
 
mistercrash said:
loud alarms on my Cell-Logs as I already have the parts for that.
I have a CA but don't use it. The first time, water got into it and the right button stopped working. I bought a second CA and again because water got in it, the right button stopped working.

Ray
Click to expand...
Hi Ray, I have the XPh 48 V SLA. It never ran properly from Day 1. As soon as I get it fixed, I am going to work on modding it up to 72 V Li Ion. I live 5 KMs approx from town in the mountains. I only drove it to town once so far, and it climbed the 5 km hill very well on the way back.15 min drive. That was last fall. I noticed you did a lot of work on yours. I also like to tinker and learn new skills as I go. IIRC, the fastest I have gone so far on a level road is about 36 KPH, maybe 38 KPH. The speedometer clocks faster than I am going though, so it isn't accurate apparently? I am a stickler for accuracy, and QUALITY too, in many areas. This is why I usually do overkill, by spending the extra $$$ to get performance. This is my plan for the XPh on a limited budget. So, I reckon I will get as much mileage as possible out of my SLAs, and then upgrade to Li Ion, maybe even the Leaf battery pack. Then a Kelly Controller, and finally a bigger motor? Of course I will do the proper research first, so I get it right. That is why I am reading a lot of your blogs. If I had the 2-3 grand needed lying around, I would have done it all....yesterday. Spring has sprung and it's lovely out there. Great biking weather, not too hot. OK, back to more research, cheers...
 
Connected kelly controller yesterday, initially had an issue with it spinning in reverse but that was due to the option settings. Anyways the issue im having now is when i turn on the lights it also acts as kill/regen turn on. Did you connect your high brake line to pin 25 as per manual?
 
Yes I used the brake line. There's a wire bringing 12V to the brake switches, then a wire sending 12V from the brake switches to the rear brake light. That wire is where I tapped in for pin 2. On my controller, pin 25 did not work as it should. Fany assured me that this defect would be addressed in the future. So I used pin 2 which can do variable regen or boost function. It's one or the other when using pin 2, you can't have both. My wiring diagram is on page 15.

If the controller goes into regen and the power is cut off to the motor when you send 12V into your pin 25 then your controller does not have the defect mine has. Which means you can use pin 2 as a boost button. That was my plan at first, to limit the top speed to 32 km/h in the software, and have a thumb push/on switch activate the boost function which releases the full power of the system.
 
Warmer temperature means battery is at optimal temperature between 22 and 25 Celsius which gives the best performance. That's more than 37 HP. But my controller is supposed to be able to give peaks of 400 A. I know the battery can deliver much more than that, so there has to be a bottleneck in my system. The fuse? The shunt? The 2/0AWG wires? The lugs? Would crimping the lugs be better than being soldered as they are now? :?

CA%20reading%2028kw_zps1ccaw20x.jpg
 
mistercrash said:
Warmer temperature means battery is at optimal temperature between 22 and 25 Celsius which gives the best performance. That's more than 37 HP. But my controller is supposed to be able to give peaks of 400 A. I know the battery can deliver much more than that, so there has to be a bottleneck in my system. The fuse? The shunt? The 2/0AWG wires? The lugs? Would crimping the lugs be better than being soldered as they are now? :?

CA%20reading%2028kw_zps1ccaw20x.jpg
Click to expand...


Not enough phase current to peak the battery current? Which controller is this? The replacement to the kelly?
 
18A shy of your controller's rated limit is not bad. Crimped connections would be better than soldered IMHO.
 
Looks like the controller has a 400 amp phase limit, not battery limit. I wouldn't expect to see battery current match phase current, would always be less.
 
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