new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

I was hoping someone would post something. I do not want to hook the wrong wires up. I contacted the seller also as the amps on the controller indicate that is a 1,000W controller and not a 1,500W controller. However it says on the controller that it is 1,500W.



I sent the wiring picture to the seller also. I asked for a partial refund as the 1,000W is 39 bucks with free shipping and I paid 45 bucks. I asked for specific wiring details and my 16 bucks back if it is not a 1,500W controller. 36V * 38 amps = 1,368W. However 40 * 38 = 1,520W so I guess it could be a 1.500W controller. I was going to upgrade to 2,500 or 3 killowatt anyway when I get four 4S hard shell LiPo or get really ambitious and build a large 60V - 16S pack.

Please someone post. I did see the smaller red wire on the diagram of a 1,000W model which also indicates it not to be 1,500W.









Note, The bottom picture which shows the wiring on my controller has the red power lock wire so I doubt the two pink wires are power lock. Does this mean I need to hook up the power lock wire directly to the battery positive or do I need a switch and a fuse or a second low amp breaker ?

I really try to do things right the best I can. I do not see those pink wires on any wiring diagram and looked at about a dozen different controllers similar to the one I have.

The three motor wires and hall sensor wires are hooked up. I would appreciate if someone could look at the pictures I posted and let me know before I hook something up wrong and start a fire. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

While the controller has a 36/48v label, it also lists "under limiting" as "41V", indicating that a fully charged 36V (42V) battery would operate controller only briefly and at minimum throttle!

(48v x 38a) x 90% = 1641w
48x 38a controller @ 90% motor efficiency (x 100% controller efficiency, big ?) does give you a best case, hypothetical, 1641w motor output (if geared perfectly), so, technically, it could be labeled a 1500w controller.

Of course, a 91% efficient controller drops you down to 1500w motor output. (Controller efficiency gauged by heat production!)
Then ... 44.4v battery, instead of 48v, drops motor output further towards 1387.5w, small battery, voltage sags even lower, (38a from 7.6ah battery = 5C ), so maybe 1000-1200w from motor?

Worst, gearing for top speed will leave you with severely anemic and inefficient hill climbing ability.

If you want hill climbing ability you need to gear low for optimal power at lower speed ...

48V 38A struggling (5mph) up a hill at 20% efficiency = 364.8w motor power and 1459.2w damaging-wasteful heat. (400% time and energy use)
48V 38A flying (20 mph) up a hill at 80% efficiency = 1459.2w motor power and 364.8w manageable wasted heat.

... or use a high amp capable controller, and hope the motor has windings substantial enough to hold up.
1500w motor with full output at 50% efficiency - 3000w input / 48V = 62.5A controller.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IcNBUtc2mc&feature=youtu.be

While the controller has a 36/48v label, it also lists "under limiting" as "41V", indicating that a fully charged 36V (42V) battery would operate controller only briefly and at minimum throttle!

So basically what you are saying is it is a 48V controller. That is ok as I have the old LiPo packs Dan sent. I need to charge and test them. Also I will need to start ordering or building large 48V lithium ion packs this winter as I plan on a dual 26" hub motor build for the 26" dual suspension. I have been looking at rear hub motor kits on e bay. The local bike shop said it will only be 50 bucks to thread the 26" hub motor SUNDER sent into a 26" dual wall rim which I have as well as the spokes Dan sent.

Note the way I mounted the controller on the side with the triangle frame I built out of wood. You will see that on the little 20" Turbo with the 800 watt hub motor as well as the Giant Roam. The Giant Roam is getting the e bikeling 500 watt geared hub motor off of Easy street. It already has the rear 26" e bikeling on the back that was on the 26" dual suspension.

My point is all my e bikes are getting the triangle frame for the controller and batteries. The Currie is the only bike i did not do that with but probably will also. You will see a controller on both sides of the frame on the Giant Roam , the 26" dual suspension as well as the bike in the video I just posted of the 20" Mongoose with the rear chain drive 1,800W brush less motor.

I don't think I will be upgrading to 60V. However I do not want to deal with this low voltage 41V cutt off or poor performance. I will be digging for the 36V brush-less controller Dan sent me awhile ago. I never hooked it up as did not have a brush-less chain drive motor until I ordered the 1,800 watt brush-less motor. I went all out on the bullets and the controller as well as the DC breaker all have them. To switch from one controller to another is as simple as unplugging the bullet connectors and the throttle plug.Then plugging them into the other controller.

I noticed that a lot of the 1,000W 26" hub motor kits are limiting the output to 750 watts and 20 mph to make them legal. I must have seen a dozen yesterday on e bay. For a dual 26" hub motor set up I may want to invest in a 2,500 to 3 kilowatt 48 to 60V controller. It will be easier to run a single thumb throttle to one controller and hook the hub motors in parallel if possible.

The purpose of two 1,000 watt hub motors are serious hill climbing capability. Since I am ordering a rear 26" motor it will also have a full range of pedal gears and be a long distance commuter which can easily go up just about any size and slope hill.

The 1,800 watt brush-less motor is really not over geared that much. 1,350 to 1,500 watts should be suitable for small hills low to medium grade slope. The current limiting on the controller will be the issue. Not the gearing. Here where I am in Ohio there are not as many steep hills as there was in upstate NY.

John was here yesterday and when showing him the Schwinn it took several attempts to get power to the motor. It was the 1,000 watt MY1020 motor which I had apart and repaired a fer years back. I uninstalled the motor and turned the back wheel around and installed the 800 watt 36V 2,750 rpm motor on the bike. No zip ties and a very simple sturdy motor mount. It is geared for 29 mph but only 800 watts. The 1,800 watt brush-less motor is geared for 29 mph at 36V. A big difference in power.

I will let John know it is not meant for hills. I will not be building chain drive motors for awhile. I will be working on hub motor builds most of the winter.

This leaves me with two questions.

1.) Will the brush-less controller Dan sent work. I think he said it is 500W. If not where can I find a decent 800 to 1,000W 36V controller cheap. Most of the ones I see on e bay are only 350 to 500 watts.

2.) Will the controller that came with the 1,000W hub motor kit Dan sent work for the 1,800W brush-less motor.

Please let me know.

Thanks. And stay safe. The virus is mutating as people are getting sick more than 1 time. I decided NOT to vote. I can no longer support Trump as he is against wearing masks and his rallies are super spreader events. I won't vote for biden either as he is senile and pro immigration. He will tear down the wall Trump built and we will be over run with illegal immigrants. He is also NOT going to stand up to China. The only thing I like about Biden is the fact he supports green energy,

This particular mask charges very fast in like a few minutes. Is easy to wear and is tight fitting and has a two speed fan. I will look for the link. I want everyone here on ES to stay healthy as I consider all of you my friends,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/electric-mask-reusable-respirator-air-purifying-mask-anti-haze-protection/133520601542?hash=item1f1672b1c6:g:Z4MAAOSwR6leogQL

I also carry hand sanitizer with me at all times. Pocket T shirts for summer and my jacket pocket or back pack in winter. i use it all the time before and after touching anything. I just rub it in. I also wash or wipe down everything that comes thru the door. COVID likes cold and is said can survive freezing temperatures so can last for weeks or months in the refrigerater.

If out of masks for filters remove front piece , spray thoroughly with a solution of 20% rubbing alcohol 5% dish detergent and 75% water. Hang in front of a 20" fan for 5 to 10 minutes then reattach front piece with electrical tape.

Please stay safe and I put my electric mask on when 30 feet from anyone and my shield goes on when I go inside a building. The mask came with cheap Chinese filters. I go with the 3 ply and cut them then fold them in half for 6 ply.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 12V batteries.

My question is kind of e bike related.

I use my 2006 Town and Country for bike storage , wheels and parts. I also used it and plan on using it to bring e bikes to bike shops for brake work and wheel work like threading the 1,000 watt hub motor to a new rim.

The battery that came with the van is a few years old so when sitting 2 or 3 days it won't start. I have a 1 amp and a 3 amp 12V trickle charger. I brought the van battery inside and was 60% and was 90% the next day and as far as it would go.

Liberty Mutual insurance put me on a by mile plan and is only 34 bucks a month as I don't drive a lot. However they have a device which plugs in a OB2 port somewhere under the dash and requires constant power even when the vehicle is not running.

I could get a brand new battery but already have a 7 Ah SLA battery I bought for portable charging my phone on my e bike. If were to hook it up with clips to my car battery and bring it in once a week or every few days and charge it would it work. If not would a 12V 18650 pack work. I have a lot of those I am not using and probably not good enough to build a pack for an e bike but should charge up to some capacity and could get a 3S BMS. If not what would work.

Please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[ZeroEm]

A little off topic.

by latecurtis » Nov 03 2020 3:12pm

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 12V batteries.

My question is kind of e bike related.

I use my 2006 Town and Country for bike storage , wheels and parts. I also used it and plan on using it to bring e bikes to bike shops for brake work and wheel work like threading the 1,000 watt hub motor to a new rim.

The battery that came with the van is a few years old so when sitting 2 or 3 days it won't start. I have a 1 amp ans 3 amp 12V tricle charger. I brought the van battery inside and was 60% and was 90% the next day and as far as it would go.

Liberty Mutual insurance put me on a by mile plan and is only 34 bucks a month as I don't drive a lot. However they have a device which plugs in a OB2 port somewhere under the dash and requires constant power even when the vehicle is not running.

I could get a brand new battery but already have a 7 Ah SLA battery I bought for portable charging my phone on my e bike. If were to hook it up with clips to my car battery and bring it in once a week or every few days and charge it would it work. If not what would work.

Please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.

You have a dead cell get rid of that battery and 7ah will not start your car.
I only drive the car once a month and use my E-trike the rest of the time.

Join the ranks of not driving much and trying to keep SLA alive. Like the insurance idea! I share a car with my mother but still the care is only driven 2K miles a year. Have a 2013 N. Leaf, knew the battery would only last 2yrs if that. I bought a battery tender to extend the life of the SLA. Did not use it enough.
The problem is SLA are made to use then quickly recharge it full and be kept at full charge. Most people that put cars in storage or let sit more than a couple of days need a trickle charger or tender, some type of smart charger. New cars have power needs when off add that to SLA's losing charge with out help only makes it worse.

I was where you are; spend a lot of money on a LiFePO4 that will out last your car. buy the cheapest SLA that will fit your car and keep it on a maintainer and replace it when it gets bad could last 4yrs or more if kept charged. I took a third option and bought a Deep Cycle dual purpose battery (optima yellow top) that should last me 5 yrs maybe. But I still charge the battery weekly to monthly with a battery tender .jr. The optima cost me as much as 3 cheap batteries.

 

[latecurtis]

You have a dead cell get rid of that battery and 7ah will not start your car.

NO. I do not believe it is that. The car battery WILL start the car fully charged. It could have been more than two or three days. Also I use it to store two e bikes as well as wheels and bike parts. Every time you open a door the light goes on. Also with the by mile device plugged in it is using energy regardless to the health of the battery.

I was NOT wanting to start the van with a 7 Ah SLA battery. What I want to do whether I have a brand new battery or an old battery is hook the 7 Ah SLA to the car battery and bring the 7 Ah battery inside and recharge at least once a week and BEFORE I start the van unhook the 7Ah battery. I just want to put energy back into the car battery so it cancels out the drain on it and keeps it close to a full charge. I would run an outside extension cord and use a trickle charger but it is on street parking and about 100 feet across the side walk.

If there is a trickle charger which would run off the 7Ah SLA and not need AC power that could work for 1 to 3 amps overnight once a week. I thought about a cheap 1 amp solar charger but would require running wires from inside the vehicle to under the hood. Looking for the cheapest and simplest solution possible.

My concern is the voltage difference between batteries and if I would need a resister it go inline between batteries to avoid large current surges. Please let me know. Thanks.

I think I saw something at Wall-Mart that jump starts a battery but also has AC plugs. I just need something I can plug a trickle charger in to and bring it inside and charge it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[ZeroEm]

That is to far for a charger, around my house they would steal the cords,
Don't see a problem with the 7ah balancing with the car to add a charge. Small solar chargers would help also but do not put out much for the money.
Have had luck keep SLA up with them but now my car is parked under a Tree, a big tree not enough sun.

 

[latecurtis]

yea. I guess I may as well take the van off the road. I called Wallmart , harbor freight and home depot. nobody knows what i am talking about. i just want to run a trickle charger overnight once or twice a week without an AC outlet. i got lipos sitting around i never use and a 7 ah 12v sla i hardly ever use. i just cant win.

the lipos are 6s or 24v. i need either a portable AC power supply to use one of my trickle chargers OR a way to convert 24v or 12v to ac to run a 1 amp trickle charger.

why does something that simple be such a problem?

what about one of my lipo chargers. is there a way to hook it up to a 12v power source and charge the van battery with that ?
How many Ah is required to top off a car battery ? can i use a converter to go from 24v lipo to 12v and hook lipo charger and charge van battery. i don't use the lipos so would be perfect solution.

There are a lot of power inverters that convert 12V DC to 110 AC. Going to WallMart to see if they have a cheap guy. I would need a 24V to 12V to do LiPo but can easily wire up a bunch of 18650 cells for a large 3S pack. 4.2 * 3 = 13.2V. It should run a 12V DC to 110V AC inverter. Why do I get a red line under inverter. It says inverter on e bay but sounds like a converter ? Which is it and what is the difference ?

https://prnt.sc/vcxa47



That would also be e bike related as something like that could run a serious LED headlight for night riding on dark and lonley bike trails.

I got a van and five working e bikes but am walking to Wall Mart and back. I wont burn any calories riding in a vehicle or riding an e bike. :lol: I also need to do Cardio as am 230 pounds with type 2 diabetes. Looking to get some cheap vice grip channel locks and muffler clamps. I got a cool idea to reinforce the drop out axles and keep my chain tight on the 20" 1,800 watt motor build. It can also work as an upgrade from torque arms. I will post pics. later when I get back.

Thanks.

LC. out.

11/4/20



I bought a second 7.Ah SLA in sporting goods at WallMart. $24 bucks is about 10 bucks more than e bay probably but already have 1 which I bought to plug my phone charger in back a few months ago when I had the Cadillac and the fuse blew. Doing the math I can run a 3 amp 12V charger about an hour without damaging the SLAs. two hours would be 50% capacity so half of that is about an hour. Hopefully that should be enough and twice a week or every other day if I drive the van about 10 or 15 miles a week.

10 * 15Ah / 36W / 2 = 2.08

The good news I could probably hook up a motorcycle headlight for dark nights as LED lights are probably around 20 watts so would give me at least 90 minutes of light if I needed it. I want to make it portable so can mount the light on the handlebars OR a small front basket (not a milk crate). :lol:

I still want a larger capacity 12V power source to top off the van battery for cold months so am looking at the spare 18650 cells laying around. If they are at or close to 1 AH each than 30 cells in parallel series would be 10 Ah. Not sure but may want to parallel them up with the SLAs if possible and on cold winter days can get 2 to 3 hours of charge at 3 amps.

I am not finished with chain drives either. Actually just getting started. The current set up with two 5/16" carriage bolts and two 1/4" and the vice grips and #40 chain is good for 35 mph top speed. For a 45 mph top speed I will go with 8 mm chain which is a slight downgrade but from the looks of it really strong. I will upgrade the motor brackets to 2 by 2 pressure treated instead of 1-1/2 by 1-1/2. I will go with 1/2 inch carriage bolts and four of those extra large steel muffler clamps.I think the vice grips are a lot stronger than torque arms so do not see a possible upgrade there. Also the vice grips are less than 4 bucks for the cheap ones at Wall Mart.

If anyone knows a link for a super bright motorcycle LED headlight between 20 and 30 watts please post it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Your imax b6 will trickle charge your car battery from 12v 7Ah SLA, just set to lead 6cell 1A 60 minute timer.
Run charge couple times a week and recharge sla weekly.

 

[latecurtis]

They are 7.5 Ah each. I just combined them for 15Ah.

I will look for a cool carry pouch for them.

Your imax b6

Not sure about that but I should have several timers from back when I grew weed in upstate NY. I have a 1 Amp and a 3 Amp trickle charger and the 120W inverter. Not sure about a built in timer but do have timers somewhere.

The hood opens from inside so hopefully can hook it up and shut it so it wont walk away. :lol:

I can't see good at all at night. I took the Branch Trail here from North Canton about a week or so ago and it was a dark and creepy 3 or 4 mile stretch with a tiny LED.

A high output LED headlamp with a dimmer function would be ideal.

If you know a good one please post it. Wall-Mart has a utility light which was rated at 20.2W I think and 1,700 lumans and was about 20 bucks. If I can do more lumens at same or lower price and with a dimmer can go up to about 30 watts.

Thanks.

LC. out

 

[DrkAngel]

Your imax b6 will trickle charge your car battery from 12v 7Ah SLA, just set to lead 6cell 1A 60 minute timer.
Run charge couple times a week and recharge sla weekly.

Use your Li-ion/Lipo/Ni-cad/Ni-mh/Lead charger! (iMax B6 clone)
12V sla input.
Set for lead (pb?)
Set it's timer, under "program", to 60 min.

 

[latecurtis]

It would be cool if I could mount it to the dash inside the van and plug it in with bullets to a cable going to the van battery so I don't even have to pop the hood. It would be better in the rain or snow. Winter time when it is cold is when keeping the van battery fully charged is important.

Even better would be to invest in a couple cheap 22 AH SLAs for charging LiPos right in the back of the van just in case one of them starts smoking. My wife has advanced COPD and even though there is a zero chance of them starting a fire in the LiPo bags and metal cash box the black smoke a LiPo fire puts out defiantly would be a health hazard.

Since I have two LiPo chargers I can charge the van battery and 4S or 6S LiPo packs at the same time. Then bring the 15Ah SLA in the house and hook it to the 1 amp smart charger and the 22 Ah SLAs to the 3 amp trickle charger.

In fact the back of a van is a perfect place to charge LiPo. If I am sitting up front and it smokes all I have to do is unhook the charging cable and get out of the van and shut the door and dispose of the LiPos the next day.

DA. You are a genius. You solved two of my problems with one great idea

Thank you.

 

[DrkAngel]

DA. You are a genius. You solved two of my problems with one great idea

Thank you.

Please don't mention my name in any post that recommends using SLA to charge Lipo!

 

[latecurtis]

Please don't mention my name in any post that recommends using SLA to charge Lipo!

No I wont.

What I meant was the SLA 22 Ah battery can run the LiPo charger which charges the LiPo.

I did not say I was hooking SLA to LiPo. I could probably plug the 120 watt inverter into the LiPo charger and the 120W inverter can be powered by a couple 22 Ah SLAs which I can bring in the house and charge with a 1 amp 12V smart charger overnight.

The one LiPo charger is the Skycharger and the other is a 400 watt Megacharger. Not sure which is the imax. As long as LiPo charger is operating at < 50% of the max. capacity of the 120 watt inverter it should theoretically work.

24V * 2 amp = 48 watts. That would be the setting for the program and can set the time limit at about 90 minutes.

I do not want to unhook the power supplies that are currently hooked to the LiPo chargers. It is why I bought the 120 watt DC to AC inverter. I do not care if I lose 10 or 15% energy converting. Two 22 Ah SLAs will be plenty of capacity to charge four 5 Ah 24V or four 4S LiPo batteries as I do not plan on draining LiPo down to even close to 50% capacity. I can monitor them and stop when they drop below 3.6V per cell. I plan on bringing with me Lithium ion backup if making trips over 10 miles.

The bottom line is I can have a safe LiPo battery charging station in my van as well as top off the van battery using SLAs for a portable power source. SLAs are way too heavy to run an e bike but the effort needed to carry them up and down stairs to and from my third floor apartment can only benefit my health. It is only an extra 10 or 15 pounds and I weigh 230 anyway. I carry more than that in my back pack when grocery shopping almost every day. My beer alone weighs about that much. :lol:

I bought an incline weight bench and just did four sets of 10 preacher curls. lifting weights and batteries is a lot different than hauling a 60 or 70 pound e bike with a motor on it up and down stairs as it is not just heavy but cumbersome and scratches and damages walls plus makes a lot of noise including me cussing and swearing. It helps if I have a quick release for wheels that are not motorized but then have to make an extra trip. Sometimes three or four trips for batteries and if I forget hand sanitizer ect. Owning a van parked out front makes my life so much easier.

Remember the reason I started back in 2013 building e bikes was I have a bad right knee which requires total replacement. I have severe pain when it is bent at an angle between 22.5 and 45 degrees especially under load or stress. I can walk for miles with minimum pain but stairs are difficult and pedaling up hills requires me raising the seat and less than 22.5 degrees and the strength and stamina in my right knee is very limited. I do pedal assist when I have to but run out of gas in about a minute or less. I need to stick to walking and light weights with my upper body plus a balanced low sugar and carb. high protein diet to be healthy.

Thanks.

LC. out.

11/4/2020 / 6:09 PM.

I just installed the van battery and my friend Chad downstairs installed the by mile device to the OBD 2 port. He knew what it was. I tried out my new toy , the 120 watt DC to AC converter and plugged in the 3 amp smart 12V DC charger and when the doors were open and the lights came on the charger read low but when I closed the doors it changed to 90% and then full. What I don't get is why it reads low in like a minute or less when the lights come on. I think the van battery is on the way out.

My biggest problem will be getting a wire from the battery to inside the van. I do not see a way to do that. I do not want to pay a garage 100 bucks to do it either and charging with the hood open in rain and snow is not an option. As far as a LiPo charging station everything will happen inside the van. That is the point. Charging LiPo inside a van is much safer than in an apartment on the third floor. Also tomorrow will tell the story as how long it takes to get the van battery to a full charge will let me know the rate of draw in watt hours. There should be a calculation for it and if it don't take but a few minutes I will know my electrical system is NOT shorting out somewhere.

Basically I walk to the grocery store or beer store about every day or at least 5 times a week. About 1/2 hour to 1 hour I am back.
For my lifestyle it makes no sense to start up a gasoline engine and release carbon gas as well as taking miles off the engine in really cold weather just to keep a battery charged. With an inside charging plug it will take less than a minute to plug the smart charger in and unplug it when I return. I can use the Lipo charger for charging LiPo and may get a second 300 watt inverter exclusively for that when I order two 22 Ah SLAs. I will be moving bike parts up here tomorrow as I have a separate storage area off the bathroom for bike frames and wheels. I will be securing a small table and need to get a fold up metal chair for the van. I need to mount stuff so when the van is moving stuff don't slide around. I will have three e bikes inside the van with fully charged batteries when I need them.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

OK

When I was at Wall-Mart last night I saw a 1080 P dash camera for 24 bucks. Also a 1,700 luman work light for 19 bucks I think. I could use that for a headlight at night on one of my e bikes. The camera should be great for shooting video riding my bike as my old Cannon camera is also MIA since I left NY. I did not find it in any of my storage boxes.


I found some very important information. I called advanced auto and asked if there was a way to charge my van battery from inside the vehicle. I was surprised by the answer I got.



I was told that there is special circuitry inside this particular charger which allows this. However watching several youtube videos different chargers including a solar charger were used.

I pulled out the cigarette lighter with no key in the ignition and plugged in my 12V compressor and nothing happened when I hit the on button.

However there was a separate port with a plastic cover under the cigarette lighter and the compressor plugged in and it has power with no key.

I want the professional advice of DA or someone with more experience than I am with 12V systems and how they work before I do this. I need to go back to Wall-Mart and get the male plug I am not cutting the one off my compressor or my cell phone charger which is MIA anyway.

Thanks.

Please let me know.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I could probably plug the 120 watt inverter into the LiPo charger and the 120W inverter can be powered by a couple 22 Ah SLAs which I can bring in the house and charge with a 1 amp 12V smart charger overnight.

Well I thought about it and that did not make any sense. I walked to Wall Mart again about 6 miles and that is when I think things over. Why in the world would I plug a 12V power supply into a DC to AC inverter to power a LiPo charger to charge LiPo ?

So I put together a diagram which should work. A 22 Ah SLA hooked to a LiPo charger which charges LiPo.

Also If I can trickle charge the van battery thru a port then the van battery should always be around 100% as the charger is always plugged in to cancel out the drain which should be in the milliamps to run the by mile device. 15 Ah should last for days and if I order a second 15 Ah SLA off line then I can switch them out every two or three days and charge them inside. I can use the 1 amp trickle charger for the van battery and the 3 amp smart charger to charge SLA inside.

As far as the 6S LiPo packs go they are really old. They were combined for two 10 Ah packs but the wires got unhooked from being moved to two storage units and to here. They traveled 500 miles in a trailer and were moved around a lot.

I will balance charge each one separate and then combine them for 44V @ 10Ah in parallel series if all the cells are ok. If I were to combine them for two 10 Ah packs I would have to hook the balance plugs together and last time I did that it resulted in a big spark and scorched balance plug. It is easier to locate any bad cells also when they are balanced charged separate. Also a 22 Ah SLA should be able to charge a single 6S - 5 Ah pack from 21V to 24+ volts and still be well over 50% capacity right ?

Please let me know and also tell me if my diagrams are right. I want to order a 15 Ah and a 22 Ah SLAs tomorrow as well as those tires and tubes Dan posted several pages back for the Giant Roam.

Thanks

LC. out.

 

[markz]

What does 3 novels have to do with an eZip motor?

 

[latecurtis]

1) The ezip motor is in the van hooked up to the ezip.

2) The LiPos I will be charging safely in the van will be used at some point to power the ezip.

3.) The van is part of my e bike workshop as not only can I charge LiPo batteries there I can also operate a soldeing iron and a fan for ventilation if I want to build large lithium ion packs.

4) I was told more than once earlier on in this post NOT to start a whole bunch of new posts as it gets confusing so I have been posting all my builds here. I can change the name of this post.

5) The van is also a place where I store other e bikes so I do not have to haul them up and down three flights of stairs. Having e bikes charged and ready to go so it is not just a van but an e bike garage , workshop and LiPo charging station.

Check out my new e bike headlight. I will be hooking that up to see on bike trails at night and hooking it up to a fuse and switch to 12V SLA.

Thanks.

LC. out.

PS.

I looked and don't see a way to edit the name of the post.

 

[Sunder]

Not really had time to read through your thread lately, and not sure what you asked me to respond to.

But to charge the car from inside, you're on the right track. Find a place to wire up a connector that doesn't require ignition to be on. Get a voltage regulator that will do 14.8v @ 9A (a bit of headroom for the typical 10A fuse. Some cars are 15A fuse)

How you power the other side is up to you, but if your regulator is step down, you could attach one of your LiPo batteries.

Also, there are a lot of reasonably cheap 12VDc chargers like the Imax B6. They have a wide range of input and output, so depending on your needs you could just flip the direction, so sometimes your LiPo charges the car, other times the car charges the LiPo.

 

[latecurtis]

I spent too much but for 24 bucks each got two 7.5 Ah SLAs at Wall Mart in the sporting goods section. They have the adapter like a cigarette lighter plugs in on the side of the batteries screwed to a piece of wood and both batteries are zip tied together.

I got a 120 watt inverter for about 20 bucks and it plugs in the adapter on the SLAs. A 1 amp trickle charger is plugged in that and the end has another male plug that goes in the port under the cigarette lighter that is hot with the ignition off. The charger has a green light on it now as I checked a few minutes ago. The light turns to an amber color when charging.

I have a by mile device for my by mile insurance plugged in a OBD 2 port under the dash on the drivers side. It requires constant power and that plus whenever I open the back to ride my e bike or side door to get a bike port it drains the battery. I could start the van but why if I do not intend to drive, It also is wear and tear on the motor especially in cold weather.

I do plan on charging those old LiPos inside the van. I will be getting a 300 watt inverter and a 22 Ah battery. I can run either LiPo charger. The LiPos are old and the balance plugs came unhooked as moving and storage. I had them combined four 6S -5Ah packs were combined for two 10 Ah packs. I want to balance charge each separate so I can look at ALL the cells and NOT cells in parallel.

After all four LiPos are at full charge if all cells are healthy I will combine the bullets NOT the balance plugs for two 10 Ah packs and run them at 44V. Charging inside the van instead of upstairs in my third floor attic apartment just makes sense as inside a LiPo bag and cash box there is no chance of fire but smoke will kill my poor wife as she has COPD. If they did smoke in the van I could just unplug them and get out of the van and close the door and dispose of the packs the next day after I air out the van.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As Both Hub Motors Will Turn and Hope no LiPo Fire will burn. Taking a break from chain drives for awhile.

We did a test run on the Schwinn yesterday and the chain came loose and fell off.

I think I fixed the problem and will know in a few hours as I am testing both builds out as the sun is out and the weather is above average for early November.



I plan on getting the front 1,000W motor SUNDER sent put on a new rim at the local bike shop for 50 bucks. I want to use a single throttle on this build to power two controllers and motors.

The two geared e bikeling hub motors that are going on the Giant Roam will have separate throttles as the rear is a 26" geared 500 watt motor and the front a 700c geared 500 watt hub motor. A separate throttle is needed in that application as the front motor is geared higher because it is a 700c motor and the only purpose for the rear motor is to help the front motor going up hills. The difference in gearing will be counter productive on the flat.

The 26" dual suspension however is a lot heavier than the Giant Roam as it is a steel frame Mongoose I think. It is what I was told. It was professionally painted when I got it with no stickers on it.



Looking at several 1,000 watt hub motor kits I notice the kits listed between 160 and 170 bucks with free shipping have a 750 watt and 20 mph limit. That wont work for me as I know that the 1,000 watt front hub motor SUNDER sent is geared for about 28 mph @ 48V.

I am looking to order this kit as it lists a top speed of 28 mph. I also saw a review on the company and it got decent ratings so looks like the perfect match for the front motor.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Electric-Bike-Rear-Wheel-Bicycle-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Motor-Cycling-48V-1000W/223326062730?hash=item33ff45488a:g2cAAOSwJ2lfRLZA






Not sure about this. I think I can bypass the 750 watt limit by NOT hooking up that wire. ?

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out

 

[BobBob]

I've had some dumb ideas but maybe some will be useful. Just throwing them out there and feel free to ignore any / all of it

If the power drain is the van door making the light come on (5W, 400mA) you could turn the light off and use a head torch.
Alternatively replace the bulb with LED (approx 100mA) reduces the drain.
Cheapest place for a new van battery is a scrap yard (think yoiu call them auto salvage yard or breaker's yard in the states) in the UK they let you borrow their battery tester and in the UK you can often find nearly new batteries worth $100 for $10.

Cheapest Van charger
Trickle charging on a budget, for the van battery, a buck converter (DC/DC switch mode power supply) will cost around $2 and run from 16 to 40V
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-5V-3A-Buck-Converter-Adjustable-Step-Down-Power-Module-Supply-LM2596S-C0H4/402529938841?hash=item5db8a76d99:g:8nAAAOSw249etIX~
set it to 13.5-13.8V output and plug whatever battery you have into it and twiddle the pot to get 13.7V if you need to. It'll only put out a couple of amps but you only need a few hundred mA really. There are step up types if you want to drive it from lower voltage packs.

Having a volt meter (on a pushnbutton?) quickly tells you if your van battery is dropping in voltage (keep it above 12.5V) and you could put that in parallel with a simple charger for another $2
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-2-wire-Mini-DC-4-5-30V-Voltmeter-LED-Panel-3-Digital-Display-Voltage-Meter/122810073088?hash=item1c980d0000:gn8AAOSwNWxaC~5p

The OBD device shouldn't take more than a few mA - recommend you measure it so you can work out how much you need.

If you have an alarm (might be an idea with an ebike in the back) then that will also use some power.

As far as charging the ebikes, why not make the batteries detachable, leave the bikes in the van and charge the batteries in your flat? No extra batteries needed, no extra chargers and cost, If you have to carry the battery up and down the stairs anyway, it can be the one you use in the bike and it means you're not leaving an expensive working ebike to be stolen - makes it harder for the thieves if there's no battery there.

Also spotted you were thinking of driving two hub motors from a single higher power controller which unfortunately won't work as the controller uses either the hall sensors or senses directly from the coils to decide when to turn each phase in turn on and off, The controller would not be able to control two sets of phases as they won't be exactly in synch. In theory it might be possible to have the two motors working in synch but in practice there are too many things that would go wrong for it to work.
Noticed you've changed this to single throttle and two controllers - better chance

Looks like you can have an "illegal / legal" switch which you can choose not to fit. UK limit is 250W !

Noticed you were useing 20% alcohol which I don't think will work at below 60% to kill covid, would save it for full concentration use.
Soap and water will dilute and remove the virus, same as washing your hands - doesn't do much to kill it but removes it. Not much use in a spray though unless you wash the mask after.
So, IMHO to wash the mask, soap and water but rinse the bugs off after, alternatively 60% alcohol will kill it but not if diluted with water and soap.
Was thinking of making a UV sterilising box but am generally not going out enough to need to.

I like the idea of a fan assisted mask. I also don't believe that a bit of cloth with inch wide holes stops anything much more than flies
I modified a PPF3 industrial mask by gluing the valve shut to protect other people, though the fashion round here seems to be to wear the mask on your chin, not covering your nose and occasionally not covering your mouth either. I have been in a few "discussions" on the subject.
Anyway, the glued mask is uncomforatable but safe. When around idiots who are not wearing masks I switch to a working valved version (protects me from them but not the other way round). Goggles if close but generally in a pocket.
I found in March that I could achieve social distancing when shopping by turning up in full PPE with mask, goggles and dayglow coveralls (issued to me for asbestos work). People used to keep their distance but are getting used to it now unfortunately.

Safe travels

 

[markz]

Sheeesh now your posting about non eZip motors

Great

No wonder this threads at 239 pages now

 

[latecurtis]

Sheeesh now your posting about non eZip motors

Great

No wonder this threads at 239 pages now

I guess I could start a new post titled e bike motors but what is the sense. Everyone knows me by this post. I started building other e bikes way back at the beginning of this post. Like the first 10 to 20 pages. Nobody said anything back then so do not see why it matters.

At the start of most of my posts is "As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns"

Anyway BOTH chain drive builds (The 26" Schwinn and the 20" with the 1,800 watt brushless motor are in perfect running condition. Neither build has a loose chain and achieved full throttle on both with minimal chain movement as the sun is out and saw the shadow of the chain on the street.

The 1,500 watt brushless controller is supposed to have a 41V cuttoff but according to my multi-meter I started at 41V and was at 40V when I put it in the back of the van. I plan on running the 20" bike with the 800W hub motor and take the pack down to about 37V and see what the brushless controller does then.

 

[latecurtis]

E bike Workshop 101 ---------------------------- Should I start a new post ?????????

I may not need to order a big 22 Ah - SLA to power the LiPo charger and balance charge my LiPos in my van. I count 59 - 15650 cells however at least two have a little dent in them so could have a 3S - 15P pack. Back a few months before moving to Ohio I made a big mistake and shorted out the 4P LG pack I built but 2P survived and are in the bottom picture.

I am not really sure where to even start assembling something like this. Obviously most of the batteries are probably very low capacity like under 500 Mah. Testing each cell for capacity would take a very long time.

I wanted to take the van to North Canton to get the 1,000 watt hub motor fixed but got woke up at 10:30 AM by some stupid debt collector and could not go back to sleep and by 4:30 PM was exhausted. I can go to the bike shop Monday. It is not going any where.

I will need a higher capacity battery than the 15 Ah to keep the van charged. I left the 15 Ah battery hooked up in the van over night and when I brought it in after testing the two new chain drive builds I charged it from low to full in about 4 hours while I took a nap. I was tired.

I am not sure how much energy is required to charge a couple 6S - 5 Ah LiPo from about 3.6 to 4.2V.
I am thinking of a 12V source to power a LiPo charger and balance charge 2 in one day , not in parallel but separate. Then re-charge the 12V power source ( either SLA or Lithium ion) then charge the other two LiPo the second day then run the LiPo at 44V.

I am on a budget so not sure when I will order a rear 1,000 watt hub motor. I need a 12V power source as I need to run the LiPos until they are no longer usable as I want to buy a rear hub motor and fix a front hub motor. I am also paying the guy down stairs to do brake work on several bikes so if I can make use of a bunch of 18650 cells just laying around and safely charge and use 44V LiPo I already own that have been collecting dust for about two years then that is a big plus for me.

Please DA , Dan and SUNDER. Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.