new eZip motor

[markz]

I was talking about battery power.

72V 60A 40Ah from a different website then em3ev's where I snapped that pic for ya
https://unitpackpower.en.alibaba.com/product/1600051248080-819350617/Customize_Box_E_bike_Batteries_72_Volt_3000w_Electric_Bike_li_ion_Ebike_72v_40ah_lithium_battery_pack_for_scooter.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.16.5ecd4994mIP9zi

72V 70A 30AH https://osn.en.alibaba.com/product/62268376821-805851517/OSN_POWER_5000W_72v_30ah_18650_battery_pack_for_scooter_tricycle.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.10.7efd1f53MUUVzk

https://osn.en.alibaba.com/product/62269802951-805851517/3_KWH_72v_45Ah_lithium_ion_battery_pack_for_5000w_electric_scooter.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.13.7efd1f53MUUVzk

https://osn.en.alibaba.com/product/60818677711-805851517/OSN_POWER_Customized_72_Volt_80Ah_Lithium_Ion_Battery_Pack_30Ah_40Ah_50Ah_60Ah_for_car.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.31.7efd1f53MUUVzk

OSN Power has pretty good prices.


Or better yet start making 5S packs out of your battery selections so you can chose 10S (36V) 15S (55V), 20S (72V)

 

[Ianhill]

I run a 48v 1600w version of the brushless motor few years back with a scooter and got decent results 45mph ish on 4.4kw 16s.

I got a build on the go with the brushed motor now i had one laying about and i spotted a chinnese 60v 45amp brush controller that works with hall throttle and small enough footprint, years ago i had to use a pot throttle with a circuit board ment for industrial racks or something to get 3kw inside my razor scooter and stick with the brushed dc simple theme i even had
a roller pot throttle on a spring return long before rion ao they stole my idea not because mine looked good but because it worked well got my £10 board working now i got 16s 45amp hall throttle all for £25 posted in uk had it in few days old stock im been spoilt finding bargains no one wants but a powerful start current and low gearing will make this climb better than any the hub motor varients that's not been fed crazy high power but top speed ill be tapped out 25mph cuz ive geared low on small wheels.

 

[DrkAngel]

48V 15.6Ah+ w/BMS confirmed capacity $145 + shipping
Take 2 = 48V 31.2Ah @ 18lb total

 

[markz]

Its been sold out, 36V 30A isnt quite enough power I need.
Would have suitred curtis well, maybe buy 2 or 3 of those!

48V 15.6Ah+ w/BMS confirmed capacity $145 + shipping
Take 2 = 48V 31.2Ah @ 18lb total

 

[DrkAngel]

Yeah, they sell fast, they fully test them individually and offer for sale every few days.
90%+ were still available, a few minutes ago -$125.

 

[markz]

Yes but the key is to have that $125 but does that include shipping?

Yeah, they sell fast, they fully test them individually and offer for sale every few days.
90%+ were still available, a few minutes ago -$125.

https://lunacycle.com/luna-apex/

52v 21ah Custom Fusion Battery, made in-house with state of the art wire bonding technology.

I wonder what the wire bonding technology is that they are using.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNVL9JyONNI

I had to turn the motor around. It was on the wrong side for the freewheel. In doing so I made a few minor improvements. I also re wired the power wires so both controllers and DC breakers work off the single 10S - 8P pack.

Two things left to do.

1. Install front brake kit.

2. Modify the battery rack so the 36V pack fits perfectly in the top nice and snug.

I doubt I will be buying more batteries. I need to build the 16S - 5P LIFEPO4 pack for the 1,000W hub motor on the 26" dual suspension and the 1,800W brushless motor.

After that I need to build the Haro V3 with that 3 kilowatt motor and controller and figure out how to mount all 24 - LTOs That will be my 46 to 48 mph bike.

The LTOs will not be exclusive for one bike however. 15S - 36V and 9S - 24V for the LTOs. BMSs the same - 100 amps. That is minimum. Higher though is expensive. The reason is those crazy Ampflow motors and super high power 120 mm RC motors. If I ever figure out a belt drive system with high enough gear reduction I will need the AMPS.

In my opinion belt drive is way better. Less noise. smoother engagement with the throttle smoother acceleration and from what I hear a good belt will outlast a chain and does not need lubricants.

The one exception I will demonstrate with the chain drive will be the Haro V3 and stock Currie rack. That first MY1020 - 1,000W motor with #25 chain ran two years. It never failed and I removed it to put on a smaller bike. That was a big mistake. The 3 kilowatt brushless motor will be similar with a short chain. No tensioner would even fit. The motor sprocket and wheel sprocket will be close. In that situation chain is superior. better efficiency. The longer the distance between sprockets the more desirable a belt drive is.

24V is more current for same power. LTOs are very high current discharge so I can build something really fast with enough current. 9 - LTOs are like 15 pounds. The same as two 10 Ah SLAs. I know as that came stock with my Currie in the video I just posted.



Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

In my opinion belt drive is way better. Less noise. smoother engagement with the throttle smoother acceleration and from what I hear a good belt will outlast a chain and does not need lubricants.

What about UV damage with belts, also salt from the roads or ocean, won't the teeth on the belt wear down faster?

I'd still rather do the tried and true chain thats been proven for 150 years.

Hey have you checked out this site?
https://www.bafangusadirect.com/Default.asp

This is a good website to
https://www.pswpower.com

 

[latecurtis]

I looked at it.

I did not see a deal. Expensive.

Geared hub motor kits are high in price. Good deals few and far between. e Bikeling was my first two and think DA. told me about them.

The Giant Roam. boasts DUAL e bikeling GEARED hub motors. Power is 500 watts each. Not 350 watts like a Bafang motor. e bikeling is a notch up from Bafang. However the price tag more than doubled for e bikeling.

The front 700c motor kit was 135 bucks on sale or 137. The rear 26" $175 or $177. Now are like $330. Bfangs are not cheap either new. Battery clearinghouse sells used Bafang motors cheap. It just was a hassle finding the right controller cheap.

The Greentime controller works well that Markz recommended. I thank him for that. I will order more Greentime controllers and more Bafang motors if Battery clearinghouse still has them.

Bafang is better than e bikeling as can order parts to rebuild. DAN said no parts for e bikeling are available. Once my e bikeling motos fail there is no fix unless I learn how to 3D print the parts to rebuild them. If I can learn watching youtube videos I can rebuild Bafang motors with parts from e bay.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Do you really want to keep on buying low power motors or wouldn't you want to get higher power motors, cheap cloned 9C's 1kw go for $200usd, 1.5kw which is really 2kw is $300usd. Not sure how much mud, snow and loose beach sand is out your way to continue 2wd. Doesnt look like you have any issues breaking spokes so a rear hub will suffice. Go front hub motor if you start breaking spokes because of weight.


edit
BTW I found your twin
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&p=1652197#p1650424

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The Lion and the Lamb.

Well I live in the city so a lamb for a front hub motor makes a lot of sense especially with a single battery pack. An efficient front hub low power is good as wont spin out and wreck the forks and can get away with 1 torque arm if a second will not fit. It just covers low speed situations and even a little sidewalk action. rough roads / terrain , pot holes and glass.

The rear drive is the lion and power needed on tap for any hills or when a smooth stretch of country road is available where > 20 or 25 mph cruising is desirable. The geared < 20 mph motor is for efficiency and the rear is for power and performance. The best of both worlds.

The brake kit for the front of the Currie did not come with cables. I have a lever and installed the brakes on the fork. The big issue was the way I had to mount the front hub motor. The axle on the wheel is short so the choices were limited as I wanted at least one torque arm. The wheel is not centered and the forks have been modified with fiber tape and resin but I did get the brakes mounted so they will work by removing a spacer for the one side and using a little thin strip of gorilla tape and a washer and longer bolts to get an extra half inch for clearance so the brake on the one side cleared the fork and can work. I think all that is required is a cable hooked up but need to get that and the guy down stairs don't have a brake cable cutter. That is the only hold up now to becoming a working e bike.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

How much flex does that fork have with your repaired cross brace/brake booster?

 

[latecurtis]

How much flex does that fork have with your repaired cross brace/brake booster?

It is kind of ridged. I used JB weld first then got carried away with the Fiber fix tape. Them put several layers of fiberglass resin over several layers of the Fiber fix tape. I really do not see it breaking or failing structurally. I just needed about 1/2" to clear the fork on the right side facing the forks or left side when sitting on the bike.

The reason the wheel is not centered was not the unorthodox repair job but the short axle on the Bafang motor. I could only get one torque arm on it and used two nuts on the opposite side where the wires come out. The wheel does not move when I push on the sides at the top of the wheel so the axle is secure and snug.

I just hope that the bike shop will hook up the cable. They might not due to liability. If they sell me the cable and the cutting tool the guy down stairs can probably do it.

There is another post here about 3D printers. I will be looking at that. Not sure about converting the Currie now though. If the motor mount holds up over time I may have finally build a reliable rear chain drive. Since the 26" dual suspension has the Bafang up front I do not need a belt drive there either but the silver 27.5" Dimond Back could use an RC motor with a belt drive front and rear if possible. I would not be using 1-1/2" pressure treated wood but quality 3D printed brackets.

I am not sure yet though as still need to build the Haro V3 as well as some custom battery packs with the LIFEPO4 cells. In fact maybe with a 3D printer I can print cell holders for the K2 Energy LFP26650 cells. The wood corner moulding worked out perfect for the 18650 cells abd built three 1S - 6P packs so far and should probably finish that for a 13S - 6P pack I can parallel to the factory built 13S - 7P pack that seems to lack discharge power. My guess is it is only putting out 600 watts.

I remember running the 1,000W hub motor with the same controller with 12S LiPo and getting about 28 mph out of it. Now I only get about 22 mph. The 1,800W brushless motor is geared for about 35 mph at 53V but is only doing about 23 mph also. The only big difference is the acceleration. The 1,800W brushless motor gets up to 23 mph much quicker and has about twice the power up hills. I really can not seem to explain that. Actually I did not see much difference in top speed between my 10S Lithium packs and the 13S pack.

I have a lot of experimenting to do and testing. It is my main purpose for this post. To shoot videos pertaining to the function and performance of various e bike motors and controllers and battery combinations. I have a top speed and gear ratio calculator provided by electric scooter parts. I will need a custom 90T sprocket for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor.



The LIFEPO4 pack charges to 3.7V per cell right ?????

3.7 * 16 = 59.2V. I do not believe there will be a lot of voltage SAG with a 16S - 5P pack as the K2 energy cells are decent capacity right ? 3.8 Ah * 5 = 19 Ah. With the right BMS will that be a 3,000W battery ? 16S - 5P.



58V WITH SAG.



I do not know the total kilowatts possible from the 16S - 5P pack though. I know that a minimum of 2 kilowatts to the wheel is required for 40 mph right ?

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[BobBob]

if it's these https://batteryhookup.com/products/16-k2-26650-3800mah-lifepo4-cells
Batteryhookup say 12A each so X 5 P is 60A X 50V is 3 Kw

I did a quick calc on the Grin simulator and it came up with 2.4 Kw at the wheel for 40 Mph plus a bit for inefficiency - maybe 2.6 ballpark

 

[latecurtis]

Yes.

Those are exactly what I bought.

I might get a 3D printer to print cell holders for strings of five.

I bought 5 boxes with 16 in each box so can do 16S - 5P.

I really hate soldering and was hoping to build it with no soldering.

I talked with the both local bike shops and one will only sell me the brake line but not hook it up due to liability issues.

The other brake shop wanted a picture but sent a video instead. I still might have to hook the brake line up myself. I am wondering if it is possible for me to do. That was how far I got in the video, I used longer bolts as needed 1/2 inch clearance so wrapped a thin strip of gorilla tape over the poles. The wheel could not be centered if I wanted at least one torque arm and was not due to the way I fixed the forks but due to the short axle on the Bafang motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAHzWkBJGWo

I did manage to hook up a rear brake but is far from perfect. Basically without a decent front brake I may just as well uninstall both motors and get rid of the bike as it will basically be a death trap. Only a working front brake will make the build safe to an acceptable degree. I don't want to die going down a steep hill with faulty brakes and get ran over by a two ton or more motor vehicle at an intersection because I can not stop the bike in time. It is just not worth it.

Here is a video of the rear brake I managed to hook up by myself. I never said I was good at brakes I just acknowledged the importance of brakes by concerned members here on this post.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32_kthJ3jrI

I am only getting maybe 1/2 inch of movement for some reason and have to squeeze the lever hard just to get that. As soon as the bike shop looks at the front forks and that big chain drive on the back the wheels in their head start turning as they think about liability issues. My only hope is a better job on the front as the rear brake may be able to slow the bike down coasting down a steep hill but doubt it will stop the bike.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Yes but the key is to have that $125 but does that include shipping?

Yeah, they sell fast, they fully test them individually and offer for sale every few days.
90%+ were still available, a few minutes ago -$125.

https://lunacycle.com/luna-apex/

52v 21ah Custom Fusion Battery, made in-house with state of the art wire bonding technology.

I wonder what the wire bonding technology is that they are using.

More blather from the Donald Trump of e-bikes.

 

[DrkAngel]

48V power!

 

[latecurtis]

Yea. Thats awsome.

The thing is though I do not need to spend that much money to go 25 or 30 mph.

Also can get the same range with a DIY battery pack.

The day I spend over $1,000 it will be my budjet for an electric dirt bike with the FX - 75 - 5 motor and 24 - LTOs.

That is the main reason for even buying heavy LTOs. The discharge rate will run the FX - 75 - 5 motor right ????

I hope so as I spent > $600 on those. I spent > $200 on the LIFEPO4 cells which should last many years and run any of my 48V e bikes for decent range and > 2 kilowatt's power to the wheel / wheels.

The Haro V3 will be my first 40+ mph e bike.

When I build the FX - 75 - 5 motor the top speed will be > 90 mph and < 100 mph.

With 24 - 18 Ah - LTOs the range will be > 5 miles and < 10 miles I think.

Not sure but someone will know.

The Giant Roam is the best e bike I have built so far and worth at least $800 I would think. The Haro V3 will be worth about the same I think and all the other builds less than that.

Some of my builds may be considered a joke but am learning how to build e bikes and keeping myself out of trouble.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Finally. Working brakes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gDAtEAgZ6I

I worked on the brakes today. The rear brake first and works a lot better. I changed things around so there is a little more movement. I still have to squeeze hard but perfect to slow the bike down going down hills.

After speaking with the local bike shop twice and sending them two you tube videos I understood what he was talking about the brake needed the spring action.

I removed the long bolts and gorilla tape and used the bolts that came with the kit. Note I do not own cable cutters but still made it work perfect with the piss poor tools I have. To me it is a great accomplishment and will not need the bike shop. In fact I might be able to do all my brake work now. Especially when I do get the right tools for the job.

The Currie may not be my best build but now with adequate brakes and the 350W Bafang up front and 1,000W chain drive in the back for > 20 mph and up hills there is not much the Currie can not do. 28 mph and decent hill climbing ability plus a super efficient 350W front hub motor for < 20 mph travel will provide decent range with a 10S - 8P single battery pack which fits snug in the top custom built rack.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

I would pay someone to build the LIFEPO4 pack.

I should have just ordered a large LIFEPO4 pack already built but I did not.

I talked to someone at battery hookup about having the five boxes of 26650 cells built into a 16S - 5P pack professionally done.

Not sure what the going rate is for soldering or spot welding is but am willing to ship them out and pay to have them done.

They will be getting back to me with a price.

I also need a good deal on the bus bars for the 24 - LTOs. I priced some bus bars but were very expensive. I will need 22 bus bars for a 15S and a 9S pack and can charge the 15S with one of my 10S lithium chargers and the 9S pack with my 6S LiPo charger and use external balancers or I can use BMSs I guess. If I can find the bus bars I can build the battery boxes and hook all that up myself.

But for the 16S - 5P LIFEPO4 pack I would like it spot welded or soldered by a professional like DA. Someone who is very good at soldering.

If DA. is interested I can pay cash or send a postal money order to his computer store and send the batteries and what ever BMS he recommends. I will be using it for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and the controller is rated at 70 amps but 56V * 60 amps = 3,360W so 60 amps should work.

DA. Please let me know how much you would charge. I can do $100 maybe a little more and pay for shipping both ways. I think it is about 200 miles and can ship it to my PO box when it is finished. I want a professional job and know I am not up for the task. I can work with the LTOs as no welding and soldering is required as they have screw on terminals.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

USPS will not ship lithium and fedex requires $39+ each way.
Spot welding is the way to go, recommend finding local source, try local search for "custom welding" or "custom spot welding".

 

[latecurtis]

The big Currie disaster.

It appears that those forks were never meant for a hub motor. Obviously it was not the fiber fix tape or fiberglass resin that failed. It was what my father used to call POP metal because it pops off easily.


However it did not ruin my day at all. I still got a good 10 mile ride with the 20" bike and 1,800 watt Brushless motor and got to test it out up a few steep hills and is all on video. No speedometer but did not need one. I already know the top speed is somewhere between 20 and 25 mph on the flat.

I never had it at full throttle. Maybe a little more than half a few times. The videos are interesting and the bike is a lot of fun. It passed the 10 mile test and the chain remained nice and tight. I would guess I put about 50 miles at least on that bike since I re installed the motor a few months ago.

It is a lot of fun to ride but the next time I make that trip to the Cannabis store out in the country I will be taking the Giant Roam. I made that trip several times with the 26" dual suspension back when I was running the 500W e bikeling on the back solo and pedal assisting.

The giant Roam now has two 500W e bikeling motors as well as pedal assist. When I got tired pedal assisting I had to get off and walk 50 to 100 feet up the steep hills to not damage the motor. I should not have to with the Giant and two motors running plus pedal assist.

I will need some better forks for the Currie. Forks that will hold up to a 350 watt hub motor. Do they make special forks for hub motors with no lawyers lip. Also is steel better than chromoly ? Not sure what those forks that broke were made of but happened as soon as I tried taking off and the single torque arm kept the wheel from completely separating from the bike.

If anyone knows where I can order a good fork that will not do that for a reasonable price please post it. I am adding two long videos of the 1,800W brushless chain drive in action.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Sad to see your aluminum forks break, buy a steel fork next time!
DId you have torque arms on both sides?
Modernbike is a good place to buy a fork
Modern Bike
2320 Euclid Ave
Des Moines, IA 50310
https://www.modernbike.com/26-inch-forks+availableisyes+SortPriceAsc
$40 + $7 shipping depending if your is 1" more likely 1-1/8, just watch what format the brakes are on the fork. When you get to higher priced forks, be sure its QuckRelease not ThroughAxle. There are no reasonably priced fat forks for qr, I am always looking.


or try to find something local
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/

Chromo / Cromo / Chromoly (chromium and molybdenum) is a low alloy steel.

 

[latecurtis]

DId you have torque arms on both sides?

No . They would not fit.

I need forks not as wide as the axles on those Bafang motors are short.

I have an extra fork but is not threaded. I need threaded , steel and not as wide as what was on there.

Anyway here is the first video. It was a little over half way.

The second video was all the way from the destination where the first video ended back to my van that sits in front of my house.

I will google map the distance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJYmO23FtCY&t=17s

 

[markz]

How wide is the bafang motor axle flat dropout width?
The fork has a big tube going down to the flat axle dropout and your bafang as short axles.
How wide was your fork, should be 100mm?

Your next fork should be different. Lemme see what I can find for you in terms of style because theres lots of styles and designs out there for the dropout area.

DId you have torque arms on both sides?

No . They would not fit.
I need forks not as wide as the axles on those Bafang motors are short.
I have an extra fork but is not threaded. I need threaded , steel and not as wide as what was on there.
Anyway here is the first video. It was a little over half way.
The second video was all the way from the destination where the first video ended back to my van that sits in front of my house.
I will google map the distance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJYmO23FtCY&t=17s