new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

some aluminum constructions have inferior or superior strength-durability characteristics.

OK.

Well besides the thickness of the drop out , what should I be looking for to tell the difference ?

I can take the forks back to the bike shop I guess but no guarantee they have steel forks that will fit. I have to solve the issue as I have three hub motors now and am using at least one for the Currie.

I am waiting on torque arms. There was hardware that came with the motors but no torque arms. In order to use torque arms I had to get thinner axle nuts at a hard ware store before due to the short axles. I used all the thin nuts on other bikes now.

If I use the hardware that the motors came with then there is no room for torque arms. I am wondering how they ran the motors with no torque arms. There simply is not enough room for torque arms on such a short axle. I am wondering how many drop outs broke as thousands ,perhaps millions of these motors were sold and Battery Clearing house has sold way over 500 they said when I contacted them regarding the first two I ordered.

It just does not make a lot of sense. They must have used the hardware that came with the motors. I don't know what to do at this point. I should probably invest in a welder and take a course in that instead of cad for 3D printers. The thing is though I do not believe you can even weld aluminum. I could weld heavy duty drop outs to any steel fork though.

Another thing is I had threaded forks on the Currie and the guy at the bike shop said thread less will work. I have had the Currie a long time so the forks that broke were not original I don't think as I changed them to run a disk brake about 3 years ago back in NY.

I do not even know what forks were on it when I bought is so am asking you DA what forks would you order for around $50 if you wanted to put a Bafang on the front and what would you do about torque arms ? Would you use the hard ware that came with the Motors or thin nuts with torque arms ? the round washer with the ridges wont even fit. Only the washer with the tab on the top and the nut will fit and the washer with the tab wont fit on the inside.

I used the horseshoe shaped washer that came with the torque arms on the inside on the three other motors to keep the motor wire from getting pinched when I tighten the axle nut. The bike shop gave me the idea when putting it on a truing stand as to not damage the wire. They said they could not true a hub motor with out the horse shoe shaped washer on the inside axle where the motor wire comes out.

I think that the horseshoe washer is supposed to fit in the lawyers lip. I put the torque arm and thin axle nut I got at the hard ware store on the outside on the other motors. It barley fit. A regular axle nut did not fit. it is probably all wrong. I really need to learn to do it right. I really don't understand how the hardware that comes with the motors can keep the motor wire from getting pinched and damaged.

Likewise I fail to see how they could not use torque arms without breaking forks. Especially aluminum forks that don't have the certain mysterious qualities that make them not snap off. Something just does not make any sense.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Well. I got about a month to wait on the torque arms as I could not order from Amazon.

I guess I am done with Amazon. I tried to log in and got the password wrong and they sent some link to my flip phone I could not open and the phone froze up and wont re start or anything. Just a froze screen. So basically Amazon ruined my flip phone I use for emergency. I am not even going to get mad and rant and rave. They just lost a good customer over some password garbage.

I ran out of one of my blood pressure pills and my doctor wont refill because I have not seen him since 2019 and he wants tests and cut me open (major open heart surgery) I was not happy as will probably die quicker with out the blood pressure pills so I talked to a mental health councilor about 3 AM on the phone and scheduled a new primary doc a few minutes ago. Besides it is time that I grow up any way and stop getting angry and belligerent at people. I just turned 56 not 6. :lol:

I called the bike shop back and talked to the kid that sold me the aluminum forks and did not get mad at him either. I just told him I have to wait for torque arms anyway so will just work on the rear motor until they show up.

He told me the exact specs I need though for a steel fork but if they order it , it will cost closer to 100 bucks than 50 bucks but at least I know what I need.

1- 1/8" steer tube.

steer tube is 6 - 1/2" long.

4" or less between the inside of the drop outs.

Beefy drop outs.

No lawyers lip.

high tensile steel.

My problem when ordering forks from e bay though is converting that data to the specs. that are listed. For example when Markz posted the links to forks I did not see 4" or less between drop outs or made for 6- 1/2" steering tube. I would really hate to spend 50 or 60 bucks for the wrong fork.

I have been looking and see lots of 1 - 1/8 steering tubes but most are like 260 mm in length and that is over 9". The Currie is 6 - 1/2 long steering tube so about 165 mm long. I have not found one that will work. It is like trying to find a ghost. I used threaded before so not sure why the kid at the bike shop said I need thread less.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I guess nobody likes to post any more.

I rode the 26" vintage DimondBack Outlook about 5 miles yesterday. It performed very well. Plenty of acceleration and power.

I had to do the super light touch on the thumb throttle. It takes practice and did some when the bike was not under load. Under load it is very easy to snap a drop out , especially aluminum.

I was thinking that it is expensive to replace all the aluminum forks I own with steel. The two times I snapped aluminum forks were both in front of my house. I don't think either time it would have happened if I used the lighter touch on the throttle and do not think under normal cruising conditions the drop outs would snap.

I remember early on in this post like 5 or 6 years ago I experimented using a Potentiometer instead of a throttle. I also remember wiring both up to the same controller on one occasion. I am not looking that up though.

My point is I really do not want to replace the fork on the Giant Roam. It is as close to a perfect build as I have come. I would like to hook up a Potentiometer and use it just for 0 to 5 mph or so and then use the throttle. The Potentiometer would have the correct resister/ resisters to allow a very smooth take off. Its top speed could be 5 mph or even 3 mph I guess. Not a lot as when stopping would need to turn it off after dis engaging the throttle.

An emergency stop I would not want much power at all going thru the Potentiometer. It would just enable a very smooth start and unless there are special throttles that can do that the only other alternative is a very expensive programmable controller.

I know my right hand has been sore since yesterday. It causes me pain some how to use that super light touch and am looking for an easy solution and will save me the time and trouble of switching over to steel forks on 3 or 4 of my e bikes.

I wish someone would post something.

7:53 PM.

I will not need to switch the aluminum forks on the 26" dual suspension or the Currie after I put a Bafang on the front of it. I just got back from a 10 mile round trip with the dual suspension and had no problem with the front Bafang on the aluminum forks. Also my right hand is not hurting that much. The solution is the throttle on the left handlebar for the rear 26" hub motor. I use that all the time when starting and at 3 to 5 mph slowly press the right throttle for the Bafang on the front.

I can do the same thing with the Currie with the rear chain drive and a Bafang on the front. If I had done that the day the forks broke I might still be riding it but think the front forks I have on the Currie now are stronger so was a good deal.

Today I went up those big hills out in the country. The same trip I did with the 1,800W brushless motor a couple weeks ago. I thought that I would be using the front Bafang on flat solo and using the back 26" hub motor up hills but in fact it works better the opposite. On flat I either use the rear 26" motor solo or use both on the flat around 1/2 throttle both for 20 mph cruising and when I approach a hill full throttle on the rear and when I get to the point where the bike just starts slowing down I press the front Bafang throttle about 2/3 and it kicks in helping the rear motor to take the hill.

Fortunately the hills are short and not too steep. However once I build a 13S - 6P pack from those 18650 cells to run in parallel with the 13S - 7P factory lion pack I ordered I should see a significant power increase from the rear motor. Also when I get the LIFEPO4 battery built for 59V - 56V and 19 Ah I should see a big increase in the rear 26" motor and if I don't I can switch to the Greentime controller and try the rear hub motor sensorless as it is a direct drive.

For now though I really don't have to do anything. I could run the dual suspension for years just like it is with the 10S - 8P pack for the Bafang and the 13S - 7P for the 26" hub motor. Or I could run the 1,800W brushless motor up those hills. I can also run the DimondBack Outlook with dual hub motors and the single throttle around town and Wall-Mart where there are no hills to amount to anything.

Also I wont need to change the front forks on the Giant Roam as it has two throttles also. A left throttle for the rear 26" 500W geared hub motor for take off and the right throttle for the 700c front 500W geared hub motor. In fact that will be my next video going up the same hills I did today and a week or two ago with the 1,800W brushless chain drive on the 20" bike.

I will be working on the Currie installing the rear 1,000W 36V chain drive and when my torque arms come will throw a Bafang on the front. I do not see a decent 20" tube for the 20" turbo with the 800W hub motor at Wall-Mart. They do not sell the thick good year tubes any more and only have the 20" slime tubes which are garbage. I will either pick one up at a bike shop or order it from e bay but when I do that and re build the Currie I will have six fully functional electric bikes to ride.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Cast aluminum dropouts are the problem ... as I have previously, multiple times, informed.
Forged aluminum (alloy) or welded plate aluminum (alloy) dropouts (look for flat metal welded to fork), combined with torque arm(s), are recommended as "satisfactory" with up to 500w hub motors.
Most all "aluminum" bike components are aluminum alloy.

As a engineer, I can't recognize the purpose of your vise grip discombobulation.
With 2 vise grips, each with multiple clamps it could operate as an emergency broken dropout backup?
But as pictured it looks to serve as some Rube Goldberg lock nut, or a secure way to transport your vise grips!

 

[Chalo]

As a engineer, I can't recognize the purpose of your vise grip discombobulation.
With 2 vise grips, each with multiple clamps it could operate as an emergency broken dropout backup?
But as pictured it looks to serve as some Rube Goldberg lock nut, or a secure way to transport your vise grips!

World's heaviest, most unsightly safety wire.

 

[latecurtis]

With 2 vise grips, each with multiple clamps it could operate as an emergency broken dropout backup?

Yes. I guess you could call it that.

If I hit a pot hole at 25 or 25+ mph and a drop out snaps the wheel will not separate from the bike propelling me over the handle bar or head over heels. :lol:

I was also hoping to take some of the torque off the drop outs. Not sure if it will but it will keep the axle nut from loosening up as a loose axle nut can cause a small space for movement between the axle and the drop out which increases the chance of snapping the drop out.

Then if a drop out were to crack there is a good chance I could make it home at 5 mph as the vice grips and hose clamps might be enough to keep the wheel in place.

It is raining all day today. I found one last U washer and got more thinner nuts at the hard ware store and ordered torque arms from Amazon. I finally got to order without having to log in my account with my password. I got lucky and will have torque arms in less than two weeks.

Between now and then I can use the U washer and the nuts with the tab and the thin nuts to test all three motors (not under load) with the 12 amp brushless controller I have. Hopefully the controller will work as the three 18 amp Greentime controllers are on that ssslllllllllllloooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow boat from China that takes up to two months. That is why I ordered that extra 12 amp controller which was under 15 bucks.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I'm not sure you realize what a torque arm does or why a drop out "snaps".

A cast drop out will snap while a forged drop out could bend or deform.
500w hub motor might output 30lb of thrust at the wheel.
You noticed the straight sides of the hub axle that slip into the drop out? Maybe 1/2" of flat?
Well, that 30 lb of wheel torque is amplified ...
30lb @ 13" radius multiplies to 1560lb @ 1/4" drop out radius.
Torque arm should be tensioned to prevent\lessen torque against drop out.
Failure is when hub torque spins, deforming or splitting drop out (cast does not deform well).

Grinding, filing even torquing nut too tight against cast drop out can compromise an already fragile component!
Hitting a pothole is a minor fraction of stress compared to even a slight throttle, (against drop out).

 

[latecurtis]

I'm not sure you realize what a torque arm does or why a drop out "snaps".

Yea. I get it.

That is why I am practicing the super light throttle approach.

It is why I have two throttles on some of my e bikes so I can start out with the rear motor and ease into the front hub throttle.

I just need to be super carful with the dual Bafang set up with a single throttle on the 26" DimondBack Outlook. If it were possible to hook up a little taggo switch and a potentiometer with the right resister to go from zero to 4 or 5 mph with a twist of the knob . Something that will only allow a little current so the take off is smooth. then use the regular throttle. There is no pedal options on that set up but when the 700c hub was on Easy Street (700c hybrid) I pedaled before using the throttle.

I know controllers can be programmed but very expensive. It would be easier to just add a rear throttle and use both but I test drove the Dimond Back and it is a steel fork as I tested it with a magnet.

If I had about $800 to $900 with shipping to spend I would just order that for a front hub motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSuqqIS4sP8&t=529s

That would completely solve any broken axle issues. I will be test riding the Giant Roam with the dual e bikeling motors. The rear 26" motor has a throttle on the left handle bar just like the 26" dual suspension which I rode yesterday and when starting out use the rear throttle and at 5 or 6 mph can slowly engage the front hub throttle and when I feel it kick in I can release the rear throttle if I want to and just use the front.

The front is good < 15 mph but from 15 to 20+ mph both throttles about half way seemed to work well as the motors helped each other by sharing the load. It serves dual purposes. Battery life and efficiency. With two battery packs like on the 26" dual suspension I will get decent range. Even with one battery pack the Bafang is more efficient < 15 mph and when climbing hills both motors can share the load and heat so failure is less likely to happen.

On a scale of 1 thru 10 for performance the 26" dual suspension is about a 7 out of 10 but with a better battery pack for the rear 1,000W motor that could increase to 9 out of 10 easily if power to the rear motor is increased by 40 to 50%.

The DimondBack Outlook is also a 7 out of 10. It is awesome on flat and slight inclines but have not tested it yet on steeper longer inclines but is at least a 7 out of 10.

The 1,800W brushless motor is about an 8 out of 10 and the 20" Turbo with the 800W hub motor about the same at 48V. It is about a 7 at 36V and 533 watts.

I believe the Giant Roam will be an 8 out of 10 also and when I build the Currie with the 1,000W chain in the rear and a 350W Bafang in the front I think it will be a 9 out of 10 as the 1,000W rear motor has 28 mph gearing and will get 18 amps and 350W additional thrust from the front Bafang on a steep hill if needed.

The Haro V3 when I hook up the 3 kilowatt Brushless motor will be like a 10 out of 10 with a Bafang on the front which will be a little help up hills plus a pedal gear so will have pedal as well as dual motors. That should make up for the high gearing the 3 kilowatt motor will have as am gearing it for 45 mph at 3 kilowatt's.

The main purpose for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor is to leave as many gas powered two wheel vehicles in the dust as possible. That is a tall order as those 125 cc and 250cc two strokes wind really quick and have insane amounts of torque and acceleration. I remember about 5 or 6 years ago in Schenectady NY. Me and the wife were on the way to the laundry matt on Chrysler av. and I was pushing a shopping cart and this guy on a dirt bike was barreling down the middle of the street and lost it. He held on to the handle bars and got dragged about 25 feet.

I was scared the bike was going to go on the side walk and hit us. The guy got up slowly and probably needed to go to the laundry matt also after that to wash his britches. :lol: :lol: :lol:

I do not see the 3 kilowatt brushless motor staying ahead of something like that but have a plan.



It will require modifying a heavy duty pair of steel forks by welding thick steel to the drop outs. Basically thick enough pieces of steel that it will be impossible to break. I might also have to weld a brace to the steering head tube so that don't snap either. I am not sure but know someone that has welding equipment,

With a 3 kilowatt motor in the rear I will need to engage it first and then practice with the front throttle as if it spins out I will lose the race and perhaps crash the bike so I will need practice accelerating with both motors before racing a 125cc two stroke.

My question is will a 2 kilowatt geared Stryker on the front and 3 kilowatt brushless motor in the rear beat a 125cc two stroke ?

1/8 mile. My gearing will only be for 45 mph top speed so doubt I can beat a 125cc gas bike in a quarter mile.

I might dig out that power meter and hook up XT60 plugs when I get them in so I can test the amps from that new factory 13S - 7P pack as the 1,800W brushless motor as well as the rear 26" hub motor should both do around 30 mph @ 53V and neither motor is doing that according to the speedometer on my phone. The GPS navigator. Perhaps that is not accurate. I do have a speedometer I got at wall mart still in the package.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

If you want performance from a 48V, go 14s!
Poor me, I got a bunch of 10s, so to be "efficient" I have to split some in half and run my 48V at 15s.
Have a 1000w/750w and ready to put together my 1500w/750w, they both have "legal" 750w switch.
15s = 54V (61.5@ 4.10V, 63V @ 4.20V might push limit of probable 63V caps)

 

[DrkAngel]

If you want performance from a 48V, go 14s!
Poor me, I got a bunch of 10s, so to be "efficient" I have to split some in half and run my 48V at 15s.
Have a 1000w/750w and ready to put together my 1500w/750w, they both have "legal" 750w switch.
15s = 54V (61.5@ 4.10V, 63V @ 4.20V might push limit of probable 63V caps)

.
... Could not pass them up!



Top rated in capacity and durability!?
Bought 6 bricks, so plenty for playtime!

I will likely keep some bricks intact, can fit 2 bricks 36V 28Ah in eZip battery case.
24V 10Ah (5Ah usable) SLA @ 20LB - 120Wh ($120-$140 complete new battery)
replaced with
36V 28Ah Li-ion @ < 10lb - 1008wh = 1kWh + ($110/kWh delivered)

Turn 3 10s4p 36V 14Ah into:
2x 15s4p 54V 14Ah
or
1x 15s8p 54V 28Ah (1.5kWh) ... (Want 40mph capability from my 48V 1500w stretch frame)
LG MJ1 test data

 

[latecurtis]

LIFEPO4 will last a lot longer than lion.

I did three 1S = 6P Lion solderless. 10 to go. Should have been done weeks ago. I got lazy.

I will have my first 1S - 5P - 26650 - LIFEPO4 done tomorrow or today.

15 to go.

I am a lazy alcoholic though.

It might take awhile.

Thanks.

LC. out.

5/10/21 - 4:30 PM.

I need to brush up on my wood working skills. A small piece of cardboard and a few strips of gorilla tape inside worked for the tight fit I was looking for. (bottom pics.)

I wont be drilling into the wood to counter sink the nuts like I did with the 18650 cell holders. I will be seeking longer bolts and extra nuts for.



Drilling and counter sinking the nuts is not uniform and need to torque the bolts down and the nuts can come un glued.

By using three nuts with the nut on the inside flush with the end of the bolt there is a better connection to the cell and the nut in the center on the top secures the bolt and bottom nut nice and tight and the top nut for the wire so there is a good connection.

Three zip ties will do the trick to keep the top and bottom snug against the five cells. It will take awhile and will need to go to the hard ware store. The bolts I got to build the 18650 packs are way too short.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmv2cgCoGrA

Thanks.

LC. out.

12:48 AM - 5/11/21.

I went to Wall-Mart with the DimondBack Outlook and dual Bafang motors. It is a fun bike to ride. I mastered the throttle and can take off smoothly and ride on the side walk < 5 mph. It has a lot of pick up when needed though. Not sure what the top speed is but think > 20 mph.

Wall Mart sold out of the camera sunglasses I wanted so ordered a good one from Amazon and will be here in three days.

I can shoot video with two cameras now. One on the handle bar and the sun glasses. I can see the phone app. with the speedometer and when I turn my head side views as well. Yea. It is a new toy.

I did not get much done today as far as building batteries but will try and make up for it tomorrow. The pack is going to be large. I need to design a triangle rack. A lot of work to do.

Thanks.

LC. out.

5/11/21 - 3:14 PM.

Drilling the first 10 holes today. Perfect fit. Stacking for 16S - 5P is going to be a problem. 1- 1/2" wide * 16" = 24" A two feet long pack ????? It is too long for all that to go on the top bar. I need to design a triangle rack I can arrange those all in some how or split them up some how.

I wont be using them at all for any Bafang or e bike ling geared hub motors but want to use them for the 1,000W 26" hub motor on the 26" dual suspension and the Haro V3 for the 3 kilowatt motor. I will finish the 13S - 6P - 18650 Lion pack for the 20" bike with the 1,800W motor and parallel that to the factory 13S - 7P Lithium ion pack so the LIFEPO4s are for the 26" dual suspension and the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt motor.

I really want to run the Currie with 15 - LTOs. They will need to fit in a custom triangle rack. The 1,000W 36V brush unite motor will work perfect at 42 - 36V as well as a 36V Bafang on the front as a 18 amp Greentime controller will make sure the Bafang does not get too much current from the LTOs.

5/11/21 - 10:58 PM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkBhIcWPH3c


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Not a bad price at all for $100/kw but I would go split pack 3x5S = 15S8P 63V for those 3.5Ah 10A and 28Ah (8P) and three cheap 5S 20.4V 12.3A chargers, or step up and get a MW 21A chargers for 48-52V battery. I don't mind losing 0.6V from 5S, the chargers are so compact, so much better then the expensive MW HRP's I hauled with me. I looked at some 25R's at my usual getting spot and they even had some 18650's with tabs so easy soldering. Or I might just lazy out and go UPP, em3 52V only if they have 60A BMS'.

...[/color] Could not pass them up!



Top rated in capacity and durability!?
Bought 6 bricks, so plenty for playtime!

LG MJ1 test data

 

[DrkAngel]

If you want performance from a 48V, go 14s!
Poor me, I got a bunch of 10s, so to be "efficient" I have to split some in half and run my 48V at 15s.
Have a 1000w/750w and ready to put together my 1500w/750w, they both have "legal" 750w switch.
15s = 54V (61.5@ 4.10V, 63V @ 4.20V might push limit of probable 63V caps)

.
... Could not pass them up!



Top rated in capacity and durability!?
Bought 6 bricks, so plenty for playtime!

I will likely keep some bricks intact, can fit 2 bricks 36V 28Ah in eZip battery case.
24V 10Ah (5Ah usable) SLA @ 20LB - 120Wh ($120-$140 complete new battery)
replaced with
36V 28Ah Li-ion @ < 10lb - 1008wh = 1kWh + ($110/kWh delivered)

Turn 3 10s4p 36V 14Ah into:
2x 15s4p 54V 14Ah
or
1x 15s8p 54V 28Ah (1.5kWh) ... (Want 40mph capability from my 48V 1500w stretch frame)
LG MJ1 test data

Ok ... 15s might be overkill.
Guess I could split 1 10s into 3x 3s + 1 spare.
Use 4x 10s to make:
3x 13s parallelable with XT90's, and make:
1x 48V 28Ah and 1x 48V 14Ah or 1x 48V 42Ah

1x 48V 42Ah would be 120A rated or cruise me longer than my butt could tolerate and cost only about $200.
Of course, I would need to solder the 3s to the 10s and the XT 90s, so, a little work.

𝓦𝓪𝓵𝓽𝓮𝓻 𝓦𝓾𝔃𝓱𝓮𝓻𝓮

 

[markz]

Best to ride whatever you got!

:thumb:

Of course

Having a smaller rear with a hub motor would be better then having a large 700/29' laced hub motor.
There was even a sold out kickstarter for 36" wheeled bicycles for very tall folk - https://dirtysixer.com/ - B.Baller Shaq seen in the promo's.
I like the idea of whats called the 69'er (Trek 69'er)- a 26" rear wheel matched with a 29" up front, but taking it one step further to a 24" rear and 26" or 27.5" or 29" front, or even a 22" bmx rear and 26/27.5/29 up front. Welding and extending downward the rear dropout so you wouldnt get no pedal strikes.

I hope you did build that, would have been crazy to see you riding it. The biggest downside to a long wheel base bicycle like that is trying to turn around in tight spaces and no bus bicycle rack on the front of the bus would fit that bike. The Electra Townie was as long wheel base that would fit a bus rack, with 26 wheels. There are new Electra Townies with 27.5 or 29" wheels. I seriously thought about buying another, but non would fit moto tires larger then 2.50 or 2.75mm wide with street treat, less with big lugs on the tire for tread. Even then going smaller moto rim/tire will impede the v-brake mounts, placing the tread and sidewalls of the tire right at the mount. Fat bike frames with disc brakes solve that problem.

untitled.png

This is about right with a 700 cc or 29 maybe in the back and the 26" hub motor in the front. Add a backrest to the seat and paint it black and gold and that will be what my next build should look like. The frame is going to be an issue.

 

[latecurtis]

The Giant Roam has a 700c in the front and 26" in the rear. Both 500W 22 amp e bikeling geared hub motors / controllers.

I was going to ride it today and shoot a video with my new camera sun glasses but the front tire needed air. The tire is brand new but must have had a slow leak in the tube or valve stem.

The valve stem was way too short for the dual wall rim so could not get the pump to work. I used vice grips to try and pull the valve stem out and that bent the stem and made any further attempts worthless.

I was really mad but decided to take it to the bike shop and get a new tube. Ernie's bike shop was closed but Gemini bike shop was open. I took the 26" dual suspension and shot several videos with the sunglass camera and the cannon onboard.

I saw three deer on the trail. I saw like 8 or 10 last week but did not have a camera. Top speed was 26 mph but was not used to the sunglass camera and did not look down enough so did not get the speedometer on video but I used movie maker 6.0 my favorite to do an awesome video which proves beyond any doubt that Tommy was dead wrong saying my builds are all garbage.

Rich folk who can afford $2,000 + just for a bike and then motorize it may look down on it but most people that are poor or middle class like the average Joe would love to have that bike and once I build the LIFEPO4 pack and hook up the greentime controller that bike will do about 34 mph top speed. However I am in no big rush as the bike performs very good the way it is now. Watch the video and see for yourselves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yv-NPMR_zI

Thanks.

LC. out.

5/18/21 - 2:55 PM

I called the bike shop I usually deal with and am going to get two tires and tubes for my 20" bikes. The 800W hub motor on the 20" turbo is a on road tire and smooth tread and the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor has a knobby off road tire on the front.

I also need a brake kit for the back of the Giant Roam so hope to see more deer on the way on the bike trail. I will do another video and if I do see deer close up will post another you tube video later.

I will be riding the 26" DimondBack Outlook. A vintage 90s hard tail. Two brand new Bafang hub kits are well over $500 new and the Outlook is kind of rare and vintage and the acceleration of dual GEARED hub motors is a lot of fun to ride.

The Giant Roam needs to get hooked back up as I had to unhook the hall and sensor wires to get the tube replaced yesterday then the triangle rack fell apart last night when re installing the front 700c motor so now everything is unhooked. It is a complete redo. Better it happened here than on the road so I will need to work on all that before riding it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

5/18/21

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1zvzW_1sxQ

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. New ezip motors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxDYXT6llks

I thought I had an extra thumb throttle but is a four wire. I know I ordered two but thought I needed a four wire not thinking that the Greentime brushless controllers use 3 wires.

It does not really matter though as a single throttle works fine with a brush and brushless controller.

In fact for starting out with aluminum forks running one throttle with a 1,000 watt brush and 350 watt brushless controller the rear brush motor spins first with the front Bafang spinning slower than the rear motor which is ideal.

Then if I want to run the front hub solo all I have to do is flip the DC breaker off for the brush controller. I would never want to flip the brush controller on awhile the throttle is engaged as it could snap the chain or worse especially at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle so when I want to kick in the chain drive for a hill or > 20 mph I simply release the throttle and turn the brush controller on then press the throttle again.

It is pretty straight forward. The Currie will be on the road soon. I need to paint the new battery rack I built and haul it down the stairs. I have a rear brake working but need a front V brake installed.

I still have to change both flat tires on the 20 inch bikes and hook the Giant Roam back up and then will have six working e bikes. When I build the Haro V3 I will have 7. I still have two Bafang motors for spares or gifts. Battery clearing house is sold out of them. I wish they would get 750 or 1,000 watt geared hub motors.

I probably wont be buying any more motors for a long time. It will probably take all summer and maybe fall to get the 3 killowatt brushless motor built for the Haro V3 anyway. I won't be buying anything unless it is a killer deal. I still have to work on the LIFEPO4 pack and the LTOs.

Someone please post.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

I give up.

 

[latecurtis]

You could inspire posters if you didn’t blow off suggestions. Seriously, you waste money on half assed builds.

There is nothing wrong with having high standards. Can you post some of your builds ?

Most of my builds may be considered half assed but not all of them.

Building e bikes is more than just transportation for me it is my only hobby currently. If I were to average out how much I spend it would be about 100 bucks a month or less.

Many folks spend that in a week on lottery tickets or a casino with nothing to show for that money or do expensive recreational drugs which could cost that much in just a few hours so what seems like a waste to you is therapeutic for me.

One good extremely expensive build can still break down if it gets a flat on a hub wheel or even a chain drive. It takes time to change and then there are different terrains. What is good for the road wont work as well for a trail. Then there is the convivence of having a smaller or lighter bike when hauling it around or traveling on a train or a small vehicle where a 20" bike is ideal.

For a great cargo hauler a 26" bike with dual motors and a large basket like the 26" dual suspension is ideal. It can haul 50 to 60 pounds as well as extra batteries.

My neighbor around the corner saw me riding home on a flat tire the day I came home from a 10 mile trip with the 1,800 watt brushless motor and was pointing to my tire and I said I will be back in a minute as will just hop on another bike and about 5 minutes later was riding the vintage 1990s DimondBack Outlook with the dual Bafang motors. :lol:

No. I would not trade all six or seven e bikes for a $5,000 down hill bike even if it were a Cannondale Jeckel with a 40 mph Geared BMC hub motor. However I will keep what I have and look for a deal on such a bike in the future.

I do not see how my vintage Haro V3 with a 3 kilowatt brushless motor and 8 mm chain capable of 45+ mph will be a half assed build though. Also the Giant Roam which is worth around $500 new with dual e bikeling GEARED hub motors each 500 watts with 22 amp controllers. Those e bikeling kits almost doubled in price so the bike with the motors is almost $1,000 new and the bike and hub motors are in excellent condition.



That is well over $1,000. Approximately 25 mph with the 700c front hub as well as decent hill climbing with 1,000 watts total and 44 total amps and all 21 pedal gears.

I fail to see how a bike like that is a half assed build. I do need to work on it as far as a new battery rack and re wiring but I have all the parts and they are in great working order.

I also have the 3 kilowatt motor , controller and Haro V3. The bike needs some parts and I still need to build the 60V LIFEPO4 pack but when I am finished it will not be a half assed build.

Thanks.

LC. out.

5/27/21 - 2:45 PM.

Basically any bike I build can be upgraded. I see no reason to upgrade any of the motors as 20 mph is still the federal law and street legal and all my bikes will do that.

Upgrades are wiring , brakes , pedal gears on a few but not as important here as NY as here I see the same mini bikes and gas powered bikes riding around for years with no pedaling. As long as the bike has pedals the police do not even look twice to see if there is a pedal chain. In NY I saw several gas powered bikes running up and down the street and a few days or a week later they disappeared. That tells the story.

My upgrades will be brakes and wiring as well as lighting and rear view mirrors. Better tires and tubes and my power meter DA. recommended. I bought 14 gauge wiring to be used on all e bikes up to 1,500 watts. I will be using 12 gauge for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor when I build it.

Then there is the batteries. Since I have been working on the Currie I stoped working on the LIFEPO4 pack but that will be for the 3 kilowatt motor exclusively. I still need to finish a 13S - 6P - 18650 pack to hook in parallel to the factory pack that is 13S - 7P.
That should increase the output of the 1,000 watt 26" hub motor on the back of the 26" dual suspension. The power meter will be wired so I can use it on any bike with XT 60 connecters and all my bikes have been upgraded to those.

My e bikes are not half ass builds. I use DC breakers now instead of cheap 15 amp taggo switches from Auto zone and am finally learning to install brakes. The Currie needs a brand new V brake on the front and will be getting that real soon.

I used the solderless connecters to redo the throttle wires coming from the throttle to the Greentime controller but the single wire going to the brush controller I used a spade connecter as the wires going to the throttle plug were way too short. I cut off a plug on one of the old brushless controllers that did not work and saved for parts. The spade connecter locks in so the throttle wires are perfectly secure. In the test video I just stuck the bare wire in the throttle plug slots for testing. I learned how to remove a spade connecter from the white plastic plug in a you tube video.

Yes. You can teach an old dog new tricks. I have learned so much here like how to run one throttle with two controllers. I can and will be doing constant upgrades to my e bikes. I will be working on the new batteries as well as the Giant Roam. I would like to build a strong durable battery box or boxes for the LTOs. It has to look really good and be very strong and durable.

Thanks.

LC. out.

11: 30 PM.

I rode the Currie to the bike shop earlier and got V brakes professionally installed on the front. It was a 19 mile round trip and started at 40V so was running low on the way back. I did charge awhile they were working on it but not long enough. It slowed down up a hill on the way back. Also the Bafang started making a noise about a mile from the house. When I shut down the rear brush controller the noise stopped so my guess is low voltage. The meter read 34V when I got home so LVC was limiting output current.

Other than that the chain stayed nice and tight. It did not come loose. I need to adjust the brake they installed though as it could flip the bike going down a hill. I mainly use the rear caliper brake which slows the bike down on hills. It held up well during the entire trip so my custom made brake bracket actually works good for the rear.

The front end shook when applying the front brake also so could be a spacer or something missing. I wanted the other bike shop to install the new forks but they only work on the e bikes they sell so will need to take it back to where I went today.

So basically the Currie ezip Trailz as aboyt 80% perfect. NOT 50% or half ass. Once I get the spacer or bearing in the fork and adjust the front brake the Currie will be 100% especially with a fully charged battery. On the way there it had plenty of power up hills. The first big hill I went up was only about half throttle.

I will hook up my power meter as a single battery pack so will work well. Power is 1,350W @ 36V so at 41V it should be pulling about 1,500W. Usually a fully charged 10S - 36V battery is around 42V so with 1V SAG 41V. If I were to run 15 - LTOs there would probably be really close to 0V SAG.

1,350W / 36V = 37.5A * 41V = 1,537.5W.

Please post when you can.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Johnson and Johnson.

We have doctors here that make house calls. We just got the COVID19 vaccination.

There is a lump on my arm. The doctor said it is normal. My wife don't have it. It did not hurt much when they gave me the shot but a little sore now. I will be glad if I am still here posting this time tomorrow.

I will be working on the LIFEPO4 battery pack today if I am able. The greatest weak link for all my builds is batteries. Once I successfully build the LIFEPO4 pack and the LTOs I will have the two best battery technologies available today. Only solid state batteries will surpass that technology so then I can say to Tommy or anyone who is not running LIFEPO4 or LTOs that they are running half ass batteries,

However lithium ion really is not a half ass battery either as the old 10S - lithium ion packs are over 6 years old and a lot of charge cycles and are still in good working order. The BMSs held up thru a lot of direct short circuits and am still running them.

They last a long time and are still around 50% capacity. Maybe a little more. It is fair to say that anyone using lead ass batteries are using half ass batteries. I don't like them. They are way too heavy and pretty much useless after 200 to 300 charge cycles.

As far as not taking advice from the good members here I may not take all advice but do take advice.

1. Buy a hub motor if you want a reliable bike. I own 10 hub motors. eight of them are geared.

two 500W e bikeling. - DA recommend those. The 26" hub motor SUNDER sent which I took apart , re wired and had the bike shop put it on a new rim. The 20" "heavy hauler" DA. called it that. It is a 48V - 800 watt direct drive hub motor. and six Bafang motors four currently running on e bikes.

2. Proper gearing. My 1,000 watt chain drive on the Currie is geared for < 30 mph. 28 mph with an 89T - #25 sprocket and #25H chain. The 1,800 watt brushless motor on the 20" bike with the 1,500 watt controller is 3,000 rpms. @ 48V. I searched for years for that. Most brushless chain drives are 4,800 rpm or more like the 3 kilowatt chain drive I have for the Haro V3.

3. DC breakers instead of cheap switches from the auto parts store NOT recommended to handle the spark. An ES member here told me about those and all my e bikes have them installed.

4. The solderless connecters DA recommended. I use them on all my builds and have three different sizes.

5. Larger capacity battery packs by hooking many up in parallel. My smallest pack I run now is the new 13S - 7P lithium ion pack which I am looking to upgrade by building a 13S - 6P pack for 13S - 13P which I know should increase total performance by 35 to 40%. My new 10S - 36V pack is 8P and the old packs are 10P.

6. Front brakes. All my e bikes have them and am sparing no expense. The bike shop hooked me up yesterday but cost $65. It is well worth it but the guy down stairs needs to adjust them as they are so strong they could flip the bike easily. I like simple rear caliper brakes for slowing the bike down when going down hills I am putting both rear and front brakes on all my builds currently.

7. XT 60 connecters. I use them on all my battery packs with a female and a male coming from my DC breakers and controllers. Several ES members who post here recommended them.

8. heavier gauge wiring. I was using cheap Wall Mart extension cords which are 16 gauge but just bought two rolls of 14 gauge red and black. 18 gauge for connecting the cells together in my packs but will be for each P and will be running 6P and then the power wires will be 14 gauge or higher for run and charge. I used both 16 gauge together by doubling up when I wired the 1,800W brushless motor so should be 14 gauge or better.

9. A red LED rear and a white front light. Basically the Police in Canfield Ohio is the reason I now run lights on all my e bikes.

So basically when Tommy says my builds are half assed he is insulting many members here on ES as # 1 thru 8. on the above list is from the people here on ES I have listened to and implement on all my builds now so next time Tommy says my builds are half assed and I say they are not look at the facts. Then you can judge.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Just a few. personal rides.

 

[latecurtis]

They look really clean and factory. I like the rear saddle bag. I always wanted one of those and still might get one installed at a bike shop. You can put a lot of weight in those but I would still need a front basket and or triangle rack for more even weight distribution.

I remember way back when I first bought the Currie putting 40 and 50 pounds in the back which also had the motor and batteries. If I hit a bump the front end wanted to go straight up.

I have been to a lot of bike shops and the larger bikes in Tommy's pics. look just like something they would sell for 1.000 to 1.500 bucks.

The little mid drive is nice. I never learned how to do that. I may not have the mechanical skills to accomplish that but am sure if I were to work with someone I could learn.

If I were to learn welding skills it would be a perfect tool to mount chain drive motors. For a really great build I could have someone mount the motor by welding brackets and I do the wiring for the controller and batteries.

Tommy I think I got you figured out why you do not like my builds. It is the wood I use for the triangle brackets and to mount chain drive motors. I use it as it is very easy to drill thru and when I make mistakes or it does not work out I can start from scratch and wood , nuts and bolts are not really expensive. Also like I said the triangle for the batteries is better for even weight distribution with a rear motor.

I do paint the wood but could take more time and fill in any imperfections with stainable wood filler and stain and poly the wood for a custom look. However for me anyway performance trumps looks. I just like building but am considering making my builds look more factory like Tommy's. I am glad he posted some of his builds as at least I know what he is talking about now.

I am scratching my head to figure out how to build a box for the LTOs that I can mount to my e bikes. I am thinking about splitting them up. I could mount 9 on a rear factory rack by bolting the battery box to it and then 9 in the triangle somehow and the last 6 in the front in a factory basket. Not a milk crate.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/batteries/lipo/50743-custom-triangle-battery-box

There is DIY triangle wood racks for batteries but will take a lot of planning , measurements and skill. Fortunately I have worked with wood building furniture like entertainment centers and custom home and auto subwoofer speaker boxes. I just need to re hone my skills. That is from the link above.



It sure does not look like a finished project though. I know I can build something that could work but will still need a rear rack as well as a front factory basket. Expecially for the LTOs as they take up lots of space.

First though I am building the 16S - 5P - LIFEPO4 packs and might do something similar with those as will be two 6S - 5P in series with a 4S - 5P so looking at three packs in series I can charge with both my 6S LiPo chargers.

I do not know if they make factory triangle racks that you can just pop 26650 cells into or 18650 cells but that would be a great invention for those who want a factory look instead of building cheap triangle racks out of wood like I do.

I have a question about the 35 amp Greentime controller I bought for the 26" 1,000W hub motor. It is rated from



Doing the math my 16S - 5P LIFEPO4 pack should be at least 58V as

3.7V * 16 = 59.2V but not sure about voltage SAG or standing voltage after a full charge as I never had LIFEPO4s

So 58V * 35 amps = 2,030 watts but the controller is only rated at 1,000 watts. That is more than double so am wondering if 1,000W is minimum and will do 2,000+ watts or not. the controller will be hooked up to the LIFEPO4s so why would I bother with that controller if only 1,000W as the stock controller that came with the 26" hub kit is 1,000 watts ????

I am working on the LIFEPO4 packs now but am still feeling side effects from the COVID vaccine. I feel like total shit. I guess it is supposed to last 2 to 4 days. It has been about 33 hours so far so close to half way if the side effects last 72 hours.

I got chills last night and very tired as well as body aches. I would rather get some side effects though as long as it does not kill me as I know my immune system is working right. J&J is just a fake virus with the spike proteins so the human body produces antibodies to eliminate it and hopefully the antibodies will stick around awhile in case the real thing shows up.

Thanks.

LC. out.

5/30/21 - 9:23 PM.

Side effects are gone from the J&J vaccine I got Friday afternoon at 2PM.. I know it is a little off topic but is a life and death thing as we need to all be alive to build e bikes. :lol:

I have been thinking about all my battery racks I have built and mount the controllers to. Just like I replaced all the cheap power switches with DC breakers and all the questionable NON solder connections with the solderless connecters DA. recommended I can and will do the same with triangle racks that look more factory and not something someone just threw together.

I am not doing that with all my builds but defiantly with the Giant Roam and the Haro V3 when I install the 3 kilowatt motor. I am also considering the Diamondback Outlook , The Currie and the 26" dual suspension. I would like to see the controllers but hide most of the wiring. Mabye even hide the controllers if it is possible to make the bike completely waterproof. I would love to be able to ride in the pouring rain with a rain coat on and not have to worry about any of my electronics getting wet.


Thanks.

LC. out,

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Long ride with the 26" dual suspension.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYsCS9OzaEY

I have not been running the Currie as I need some work done on the front end. The front shakes when I apply the brakes as something is not right with the new forks because I installed them and really do not know what I am doing, I will need to drop that off and have it fixed professionally. It is a saftey risk and since I survived COVID do not need to die in a bike accident.

There is no room for a triangle rack that is professional looking for the 26" dual suspension. It simply will not fit. Also if I choose to mount the LIFEPO4 packs on the back rack then I will not have a cargo basket. Now I can use rope and a bungee cord to attach a milk crate to the solid rear rack and can haul some cargo. I am not sacrificing that space for looks or to impress someone.

If my builds are all junk then F it. If nobody wants to post any more because someone says they do not like the way my builds look F them.

I am not here to impress anyone. I rode to Home Depot and got a good sanded 2 by 4 foot piece of sanded plywood the perfect thickness to build battery boxes and had them cut in to four 1 foot by 2 foot sections which all fit perfectly in my rear basket. I then went to Wall Mart looking for sneakers. I need size 12 wide as my feet are wide. They did not have them there or the Super Wall Mart here in Canton.

I started kind of late and tried to get food as had not eaten much yesterday and struck out on about 5 fast food drive thru. I know several like Arbies and a couple others allow bikes to go thru drive thru but the Mc Donalds down here refused to serve me because I had a bike. By that time it was almost 11 PM and I wanted to kick someone's ass as my sugar was low and was starving. I gave them the finger. A girl and a Guy and was hoping he would step outside so I could wrap the bike chain around his neck and drag him down the road. F it if nobody likes what I am saying either.

I really wanted to throw a rock thru the window but did not. I called a few pizza joints and got a little Ceasers and would not deliver. Only online and could not figure it out with phone so ordered a curbside pick up. I made it there and proceeded to get a root beer and eat way more than I should. I also picked up a 12 pack but all those carbs turned to sugar and got so tired I had to go to bed and did not even open a beer.

I was running both the new 13S - 7P for the 1,000 watt rear 26" hub and the 10S - 8P new pack for the front 350 watt Bafang. I must have put close to 20 miles on them but voltage was 49V for the 13S pack and 39V for the 10S pack. So basically those are good for about 40 miles. Sometimes I ran just the rear and sometimes just the front and sometimes both up slight hills.

The 10S - 8P pack was down to 34V when I rode the Currie to the bike shop last week but left at 40V and only re charged an hour at the bike shop but yesterday running both the 13S and 10S packs with the 26" dual suspension I can double my range. I could order a second 13S - 7P pack to try and get more power from the rear motor but am not sure I really need to. The bike will do 26 mph and climb most small hills. The brakes work good enough to stop the bike going down hills. I can live with it exactly the way it is now.

As far as building triangle racks that looks professional the Currie as well as the Giant Roam and the Diamondback Outlook all run 36V. They can not do 48 or 60V because they all have 36V motors. I could run 44V for the rear Currie chain drive brush 36V 1,000W motor but would be stupid. It already runs great at 36V and 1,000 watts. Once the front end is fixed and the front brakes are adjusted so it wont flip the bike down a hill the bike is perfect as it sits. Like the old expression. If it is not broken do not fix it.

I can still use the LIFEPO4s for the Haro V3 and build a fancy triangle rack with the wood I bought. and a rear box for the top of the stock Currie rack I put on the Haro and a small front factory basket to run two 6S - 5P and a 4S - 5P all in series for 59V and 46 mph gearing. I can even take the battery boxes to an upholstery shop and have them covered with leather if I want to. I will come up with something also for the Giant Roam which will look awesome and will be covered in leather. It will look as good or better than Tommy's builds but the rest of my bikes I am only concerned with performance and safety.


I probably will not be posting as much anymore as I guess nobody likes me or everyone is sick of me. Oh well. I am used to that. Been dealing with it my entire life. It is why I do not have any friends in real life. I have old friends I barley ever speak to and a couple of hopeless alcoholics back in Schenectady NY , only one who posts on Facebook anymore but absolutely no friends in real like I could hang out with or work on a bike with.

I kept this post going as thought I had friends here on this post but I guess not. F it.


LC. out.

 

[Ianhill]

Never let what other people think effect your well being my friend you keep at what makes you happy and you want to share with the world you do that, many read here thats not privileged and even if you help one person get a bit of info they need you have done well.

Keep posts to a few pages long plenty of pics and im sure theres people not even signed up yet that will follow along.

Tomorrow's a new day make it great fella dont need a world of wealth to smile keep on grinding.

 

[Ianhill]

I hear your pain struggles in life day after day nothing good happens, alcoholics worst friends of all only bring drama fed up of it myself but i turn ti a thrist for knowledge i cant count what nunber breakdown im on but i hold on to life with the grip of a man in an electric chair becuase only 1 chance at it you get.

I see your not made the best stuff and just trying if you keep reading and learning stick with it you will get better we all start somewhere least you can take their crap and not act like a spoilt privileged wanker.

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks for the feedback.

There are some bikes where I really do care how they look. The Giant Roam , The Diamondback Outlook and the Haro V3. Those are not cargo bikes and won't be putting a milk crate basket on those as they are not for cargo.

I would like to make them as professional as possible and will be doing triangle racks or rear rear factory racks and the LIFEPO4 battery box will be covered with leather and would like to waterproof those bikes as well.

I have six running e bikes and will be seven when the Haro is finished. The 26" dual suspension and the Currie will be my cargo bikes and the two 20: bikes are just all around fun bikes. The 20" turbo with the 800 watt hub on the back and the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless chain drive and 1,500W controller.

I still think performance Trumps looks but would like both. I am working on building LIFEPO4 packs. I have a lot of 6S balance plugs. Like 20 in a bag and am building two separate 6S-5P packs and a 4S - 5P pack. I might order a 2,000W Greentime controller for the 1,000W motor on the 26" dual suspension. Not sure. It depends on if I even want to upgrade it. I kind of do as I think it would really run good especially up steeper hills at 60V.

If I did not have LIFEPO4 packs it probably would not matter but since I am building LIFEPO4 I might as well use them. Not just for the Haro V3 but for the 1,000W hub on the 26" bike as well. The 1,500W controller on the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor is 36 to 48V and rated at 38 amps and 1,500 watts. It probably will not work with the LIFEPO4s and 59V. That is ok though as that 20" bike is not really safe at 30+ mph. It has plenty of get up and go now and has no problem up hills.

I don't see us getting a fourth stimulus check. Herd immunity is right around the corner. I am done spending big money on motors and new builds. I doubt I will ever buy a 5 or 8 kilowatt direct drive like a QS motor or cro - motor. I would rather save for an electric car.

However I do want to build Easy Street - my Giant Cypress Hybrid someday and will be the best GEARED hub motor that I know of. The BMC - Stryker 2 kilowatts @ 48V and 2,500 watts at 54V I think. I could google it and pull it up but am sure all of you know what I am talking about.

I am not stupid and was not born yesterday. It was 1965. I know why I get so much criticism and know Tommy and maybe even a few other ES members are a little jealous. It is not the e bikes that I build. NO. It is the fact that I got the FX - 75-5 motor sent to me as a gift and am sure they are frustrated as I am that I have not done anything with it yet.

However I have good reasons. It is 45 kilowatts so like 60 HP. It is not a tinker toy and I have no welding skills and not even a clue how to hook up the controller I got with it. But I do now have the batteries required to run it. The Lishen 18 Ah LTOs. It is only 60V however but that should be good for 60 mph. That is my guess. I will probably need closer to 100 volts to get the top speed rated for that motor which I think is around 90 mph.

I will also need a 250cc dirt bike frame with all the gas parts stripped and then someone who can weld the brackets for the motor. The Lishen LTOS are for the FX-75-5 motor exclusively. I paid $600 for them and are too heavy for an e bike unless I decide to order an Ampflow motor which range from 1,500W to 3+ kilowatts @ 24v. It is not something I really need though with 6 running e bikes and 7 when I build the Haro. 9 - LTOs are 24V and is about the maximum number for a e bike due to the size and weight. I will need to order another 12 I think if I want to get at least 70 or 80 mph from the FX motor.

Whoever helps me build the FX - Death Bike will be tho only person I will let ride it. Except my son someday if he wants too or one of my brothers. It will probably only be for the race track as I know 18 Ah batteries wont last that long on the open road for a street legal bike.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.