new eZip motor

[markz]

I am still wondering about what is the best meter for internal resistance.

I always love it when someone asks about the "best" of something because one persons "best" isn't another persons "best" and my guess is $3800 isnt Curtis' "best"

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/battery-analyzers/fluke-500

Key features

The ideal test tool for maintenance, troubleshooting and performance testing of individual stationary batteries and battery banks used in critical battery back-up applications

Key measurements – Internal battery resistance, dc and ac voltage, dc and ac current, ripple voltage, frequency and temperature.
Sequence measurement mode – Automatic or manual sequence testing of battery strings with automatic measurement storage including voltage, resistance and temperature (with BTL21 intelligent test probe), eliminating the need to press a button each time a measurement needs to be saved.
Comprehensive logging – All measured values are automatically captured during testing and can be reviewed on the instrument before downloading for on the-go analysis.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

That is a lot of money.

I wonder if I can get anything decent for around $50.

I did see meters on e bay or Amazon. I think I posted one.

There must be an in expensive meter out there that can do the job.

Since I got robbed on that 5 in 1 meter I am in no big rush to order something unless someone recommends it.

I do have a new multi meter as the yellow one I had died. I tried a different battery and did not work and could not test it so bought a new meter with a battery for $12 at Wall Mart.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

I just did more research on charging the 18650 cells.

Here's the chart from battery university ...you can go to4.3 and get only 200 cycles but at 114% rated output ...

The optimum is 3.92 for maximum life , youonly get 58% of the rated output , but 10 times more cycles.

To find their capacity it's OK to charge to 4.2 , but storing them at this voltage and regular charging to this level will not give them a long life.

I do not understand the 58% rated output @ 3.92V. 58% of a 48V battery is like running 24V. That makes no sense.

The chargers I have for the 10S and 13S packs that have BMSs all charge to 4.2V.

I would like to replace them with a charger I can set for 4.0V or 4.1V. Even 3.92V if possible. For short runs that are < 20 miles a 17P pack could benefit considerably.

If I were to start running 13S - 17P for 20 mile round trips then 4.0V should work fine. For 30 miles 4.1V.

If I run a power meter I will know when the batteries are at 3.6V per cell and will know what voltage to charge.

300 to 500 cycles vs 2,400 - 4,000 cycles.

This should also make charging safer as the closer to 4.2V the less safe is the cell.

Of course when under charging there is a significant power / performance difference. However that can be fixed easily by adding another cell in series right ???

13S = 54.6 so 54.6 / 14 = 3.9V. However the LiPo packs with the BMSs has their own charging wire/port.

That makes it more complicated. I can not just add a 1S - 7P pack in series.

I am charging at 4.1V LiLO setting right now but need a way to charge the 13S and 10S packs I own to 4.1V - 3.9V also. The 6S - LiPo charger cant charge those.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.amazon.com/ALLOSUN-Battery-Internal-Resistance-Analyzer/dp/B01FHF1AHO/ref=asc_df_B01FHF1AHO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8216772296096427728&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023608&hvtargid=pla-348585273293&psc=1



I am heading to Wall-Mart to put money on my card to order that.

Unless anyone has a reason why I should not.

I just soldered another 5 cells. I am doing 5 a day consistently now.

I need to speed this up.

So far no feedback on charging at 3.92V to get four times as many cycles. I suggested building a 14S pack and charging at 13S. I was thinking about a BMS but not sure if it would even be possible to charge a 14S pack at 13S if it has a BMS.

I am looking to get as much use out of my packs as possible.

I have not even looked up LIFEPO4 to see what the story is on charging them.

please let me know and if anyone knows of a better meter under 100 bucks now is the time to post it as I will be ordering a meter tonight when I return from Wall Mart.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

I'd look for a multimeter with Internal Resistance, auto-ranging, and auto-off

 

[latecurtis]

I'd look for a multimeter with Internal Resistance, auto-ranging, and auto-off

6/21/21. 6:06 PM.

Too late now. I ordered the one I posted 19 hours ago.

I just looked up the auto range and did not fully understand the concept. Auto off is good though as I have been known to leave my multimeter on in the past.

As long as the new meter reads internal resistance of each cell I am good. I got a cheap Wall Mart meter to measure voltage so I will have two meters to measure voltage.

It said it would be at the Amazon hub for pick up as early as tomorrow so at least do not have to wait long.

I want to get a pack finished so I can run them.

I need to look at BMSs. Also chargers. If I were to build a 14S pack and charge at 13S I could get > 2,000 charge cycles vs 500 charging to 4.2V.

I would just need to make sure I do not go below 3.6V so would sacrifice range for longer battery life. I could always charge accordingly. If I needed extra range I could charge at 4.1V and if only a short trip then 3.9V.

However I will need the proper BMSs to accomplish this if they will even do that.

As far as running parallel packs my new 13S - 7P pack I already own should work in parallel with a 14S pack charged at 13S or 53.6V. I could probably use the same charger. I just need to get the right port to plug it in.

Any feed back on the subject of charging options will be appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Spending more money on a I.R. meter - will you test to see if the meter you bought is actually accurate?

Go check out the EEVBlog youtube channel, that Aussy probably has done some reviews on battery IR meters.
If you can't find anything there the Aussy also has his own forum to post on.

Since your flush with cash Curtis check these items out
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/test-equipment/battery-grinspector.html
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/test-equipment/dual-resistor-battery-load-bank.html

Dual Resistor Load Bank with Selection Switch. Discharges 36V Batteries at 2.5A, 5A, or 10A, and 48V Batteries at 3.5A, 7A, or 14A *Please allow 2-5 days manufacturing time

https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/test-equipment/load-resistor-6-8.html
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/test-equipment/rshunt-tester.html

[for]Hard Core Enthusiasts

That $60 400W 6.8ohm resistor would work, or buy some power resistors and put them in mineral oil to cool them down.
Some random ones I've found
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/283455750031?hash=item41ff477f8f:g:SO4AAOSwYVRcuCf1

These ones have to much resistance but should be easy to find them in lower ohmic value, I bought a bunch at 1ohm, 1.5ohm, 2ohm and 5ohm all at 100W. The lower current you pull for longer means you dont need high watt value.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/323763114523?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4b61c9121b:g:454AAOSwm1VgxlRp&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSvhAqMt0wg86xg8aAkgjQJGBN%252F3EKv%252BZ32K9gT39%252Be9hydvEFRldBTAMkv7YALThg4dLCIi01WQD%252Blw73njwpWYw3aWkpsIDRPUii%252F0Y%252Fd3%252B1e82vc1Sty1W7mOtAGeOBnOmAzqzG6twSqqNvxaC2wFchA%252Fq7QTW68J79l21tQHcBW9tjfnKqojY%252Fr8UXMr4Ii3ts0a4D82DQP6aj4O%252FOop52STnBG2U7V02FSDCTr62tJBUPqSV5qKya5x%252FgzeTG9sfU2aUvonHrknHVxrAuez7r4l8HXtYJkIfzKtThyMVKBpUJ%252FF5kKUMebGwnrdxJAM0ncGICsMSAJsodvXMljBshhRdHkFo9TfEuESEqYl7nmmqwBCu17QwKPG6xJWeeHfGC%252BaL5NrkfkEp2wZu7CYt6hSIBl%252Bo3NZpD%252B%252FfWmZ63beqcP8wHkzgEgToIYZ0EZo6BDJsP7VmkI0mZ%252B5o5o2ojdAJvN33KnoPZQtv3aXHiMcmrYl9Ce7S%252FGmrr9wcKCsRubW2rMOBNn%252BgIIZPOYvySJriryJIL1Qe1rgpLF1cf58NrO5SP2mYAp4RJR%252Bvttt5KbdRwpcK8AEKC0d0JnH9Qd1PVTQWVsQnFGKKoa6Tset3SgSALqGsiZV54a5GlpO6yRqKZSVtPqPriMEKo1HQtHnjCqRomHTvtlyMP8qWVPOiE9YM5xTZGVsFNX2sFNIC6Z42HFfiDHTZ3w4LbyOgJgVe3djmSWyWe46PXpN1Yi4WgQl0gtpylCNpxwukcwHpIBOrjQ26EVadjbm9x0Q3ftTMZqvBwhCaPwVrt%252BSJFgiBnHhG%252FeiFZl%252FFRA9HV%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

 

[latecurtis]

Since your flush with cash Curtis check these items out

NO !

I spent too much money on e bike projects.

It is why I listen to tomjasz some times.

He does have a point there, I do not agree that my e bikes are junk but do know I have spent too much money. that is a fact.

There are no more stimulus checks and COVID food stamps are going to run out.

My van needs a blower motor and new motor to roll down the driver side window.

I would still like a small 4 cylinder car for under $1,000. Also a dirt bike frame for the FX - 75 - 5 motor.

I need a sprocket for the 3 kilowatt brushless chain drive for the Haro V3. My last e bike project for a few years probably.

i spent about $1.000 on batteries I have not run one time.

$600 for LTOs

200+ for LIFEPO4s and less than $100 on these 18650 cells I have to tear apart and tape up as the wrappers come off separating them.

I need to build batteries with what I have. I am not spending any more money on anything e bike related for a long time.

I have over $1,000 saved but should have saved double that.

Together me and my wife have about $3,000.

We still may want to move to a bigger place before we die. Basically we are living in an attic that was turned into an efficiency or studio.

I am going on a budget to save money for the future,

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

So far everything I built before is wrong.

Lithium cells should have a little space from each other to dissipate heat.

Space for mounting packs is also important but should be a little space. Not a lot. It is why battery spacers are popular but not necessary.

Cutting a 10 inch piece of standard electrical tape in half and wrapping it around the top and bottom of each cell will provide what is needed.

As the pictures show the new wiring will take up about the same space as tabs.

I am getting serious about building packs now.



The top positive soldering went really smooth.

However had a lot of problems getting the negative side to stick. It did not go smooth and had to heat up the cells more than I wanted to.

Hopefully the solder acid at the post office will resolve that. If it works like the video I posted I will have no more issues getting solder to stick to a battery cell.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I watched a lot of you tube videos and have done extensive research and found that a lot of people that solder 26650 cells can not get solder to stick with out using a soldering acid or acid based flux for stainless steel.

However I did manage to solder 3 banks of 5 or 30 solder joints with no flux or acid.

Yes I did have to do one over just now but after pushing against all solder joints several times have not found any more that did not stick.

The thing I really noticed about the 26650 cells is the positive side sticks a lot better than the negative side.

I also notice that solder sticks to 18650 cells on both positive and negative a lot better than the negative side of 26650 cells but about the same as the positive side of 26650 cells.

I ordered soldering flux specially for stainless steel so got two on the way as well as the soldering acid I already ordered.

I could probably solder all the 26650 cells with no flux or acid but wish I waited or got the stuff I needed earlier as soldering the negative side of 26650 cells requires heating up the cells probably 500% or longer than if I had the flux or acid by what I have seen on the videos.

Therefore I am stoping soldering the 26650 cells until the stuff I need shows up but can still solder 18650 cells as the solder sticks to both positive and negative every time.

I was going to leave the solderless 26650 - 6S - 5P pack I built and try and run it but do not like the fact the cells are touching.

I finally have mastered soldering and building packs for both 18650 and 26650 packs.

However I have standards. I want the cells NOT touching. I do not want a lot of space but a little for heat dissipation.

My question is should I tear apart the solderless packs because the cells are touching and do everything over or just run them together ? Basically what I am saying is if the cells get hot and are touching will they catch on fire or fail ???

The new way I am building packs there is about 1/16" space between cells. I use a single wire to solder a bank of 5 or 6 cells similar to a bus bar or tabs. I no longer solder a single piece of wire to each cell.

I just wish I figured that all out months ago instead of now.

I have so many 186550 1S - 6P as well as 10P packs solderless or with a single wire to each cell. Cells touching and too many wires when building battery banks with a wire to each cell.

I have learned a lot but am not any further ahead towards building a large functional battery pack than when I started.

I Will need to tear apart a whole bunch of packs and try and make sense out of the voltage resistance meter. That is a problem also as the numbers change and fluctuate a lot on all settings to measure iR. I do not know if the meter is working right or not. Voltage seems to be about the same as the new Wall-Mart meter.

Please post.

I guess I will work on the 18650 cells until I get the acid and flux for the 26650 cells. I just hope my impatience did not ruin the 26650 LIFEPO4 cells. I know I have tried charging them three times at different voltage and so far they do not take a charge.

The solderless 26650 packs did not charge either though. So far the 26650 cells have all tested at around 3.3V and after attempting to charge at 3.6V with the LIFE setting standing voltage on all cells is still less than 3.4V. They should all be close to 3.6V or at least > 3.55V.

I guess I got robbed and spent $230 on junk or I am just doing something radically wrong.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Do it right the first time!

:thumb:

 

[DrkAngel]

I guess I got robbed and spent $230 on junk or I am just doing something radically wrong.

Merely, reinforced, ignorance as to how LiFePO₄ function.

I just hope my impatience did not ruin the 26650 LIFEPO4 cells. I know I have tried charging them three times at different voltage and so far they do not take a charge.

The solderless 26650 packs did not charge either though. So far the 26650 cells have all tested at around 3.3V and after attempting to charge at 3.6V with the LIFE setting standing voltage on all cells is still less than 3.4V. They should all be close to 3.6V or at least > 3.55V.

Told, and showed, you before ...
LiFePO₄, similar to SLA, requires higher charge voltage to attain the lower, fully charged, voltage!

 

[markz]

Why are you blaming someone else that you got robbed?

I guess I got robbed and spent $230 on junk or I am just doing something radically wrong.

edit
You may indeed have been robbed, you may have wanted to purchase new, healthy battery but were shipped old, used, junk.
Time to kick it old school and setup a IR circuit to test your battery cells and confirm if your IR meter is accurate. But you might as well rely on your own IR circuit to get IR for each and every cell, which takes time, but making your own battery packs takes time. Thats why I purchased a battery from Grintech because I was fed up with all the time making my own batteries from Makita's, Ryobi's yet I still have loose 25R's that I would like to make into a pack but it takes a lot of time. I'd rather be out riding, but its just to hot out this week so time to heal up (crashed on the ebike, plus a surgery, plus switching back into keto).

 

[DrkAngel]

I finally have mastered soldering and building packs for both 18650 and 26650 packs.

Well, like doing your first finger painting and claiming you have mastered painting.

 

[latecurtis]

Well, like doing your first finger painting and claiming you have mastered painting.

Not really. I had some success soldering back in NY when I built the pack with the LG cells. It ran fine until I hooked it up for a direct short circuit and smoked half the pack.

The internal resistance meter is garbage. Another big waste of money. I found a you tube video on it and there are better meters out there for about the same price or a little more but of course I ordered the one that is not accurate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIz-v9kfwIM

I wish someone could have warned me but now it is too late. It is terrible like the 5 in 1 meter. I neither have the ambition to send it back or the funds to buy another. I guess I will have to go by voltage.

Also the solder acid for soldering to stainless steel will be here sometime this week. I ordered 4 tubes all together. Two different brands but rated for the same type of stainless steel soldering.

I can solder with out the flux or acid but especially bad for the negative side of the 26650 cells as fully melted solder needs to be re soldered one or two times to get it to stick and that heats the cells up more than I want.

With the acid it should work much quicker with less or no cell degrading from excessive heat. that is what will make me an expert. Using the larger tips and the correct solder acid required for stainless steel. My actual skills soldering I have been working on for years now. I just gave up awhile back when I ran out of flux about a year ago.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

“I wish someone could have warned me but now it is too late.”

You ordered and then asked opinions. Now someone should have helped you? I’m sorry to say you just charge forward regardless of your friends help here.

 

[latecurtis]

You ordered and then asked opinions. Now someone should have helped you? I’m sorry to say you just charge forward regardless of your friends help here.

Yes. You have a point.

E bikes and battery building is an ongoing learning experience. The more you study the more you learn. There is always new and different ways to improve and upgrade an e bike or battery. Any build leaves room for some sort of improvement and that is why this post is so long and I spend the time in my e bike workshop. Not lately though as way too hot in that little closet.

I think I did ask a few days before I ordered but should have waited a little longer for a response and I should have watched the you tube video before ordering.

Not really sure if there is a way to calibrate the meter I got so it will work better.

The guy in the video did not even try and not even sure if there is a way to do it. I know a multi-meter had a dial inside it you can adjust for voltage but do not know about iR.

If there is a way to get a stable reading at least I could get a ball park reading. If it is really high then I know the cell is garbage.

I did test a few cells that were very low in voltage and some of them read really high. I am separating any cell < 3V anyway so if they test higher than the others for iR also then I know not to use them.

Cells < 1V will never charge right and need to be re cycled ? I have some cells > 1V and < 2V and cells > 2V and < 3V also.

I still have a bunch of cells I need to extract from the plastic cases. I should have enough healthy cells to build a 13S - 10P pack.

I never got any feed back about charging voltage for 18650 cells. I posted the information on charging to 4.1V instead of 4.2V and even 4V and 3.92V to increase lifespan to > 2,000 cycles.


For short trips < 10 miles I should not need to charge to 4.2 or even 4.1 with a large capacity pack. Also if I did have a cell with high internal resistance that I missed would it be a lot safer to charge at a less voltage as long as I do not dis charge below 3.6V ????????

2
A LiIon cell charged to 4.2V WILL NOT "settle" to 3.9x volt in a few hours. LiIon maintain terminal voltage extremely well (unlike most other chemistries). || Battery University BU808 table 4 shows capacity versus Vchg max. Rule of thumb - capacity drops 10% per 70 mV reduction. | 3.92V ~~= 58% capacity and 2400-4000 cycles. | "Somewhere [tm] you'll find a superb long Mars Rover battery system design paper - they get maybe 8000 cycles - at AFAIR 3.65V max? ||| ... – Russell McMahon♦ Apr 12 '18 at 12:04

One really good reason besides the extra cycles is I would like to parallel the factory built 13S - 7P pack to the 13S - 10P pack I am building from used cells but the 13S charger charges at 53.6V or 4.2V per cell and has a special charging port wire. I would need a new plug for it to hook it up for 4.1V LiLO charge. However would like a charger that could do 3.92V for the 2,400 - 4.000 cycle range as running at 13S - 17P it should still be good for 10 - 15 miles at 3.9V - 3.6V.

Then there is the 10S - 10P pack which are really old and probably close to 1,000 cycles or more and the new 10S - 8P pack all charged at 4.2V per cell. I could probably get another 500 cycles out of the old 10S - 10P pack at 3.92V and like 1,500 extra cycles from the newer 10S - 8P pack which is probably < 500 cycles now.

Any feedback on that will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Well I got to about here then figured I better get on with the day.

The more you study the more you learn. There is always new and different ways to improve and upgrade an e bike or battery.

The more you use the search function, the more you learn.
No, there isnt ALWAYS NEW AND DIFFERENT ways to improve and upgrade, because if you do it right the first time then there is no need to upgrade. The only need to upgrade is when buying inferior products, buying cheap products because that not only wastes money as you have learned, but it also wastes your own time.

 

[DrkAngel]

I did test a few cells that were very low in voltage and some of them read really high. I am separating any cell < 3V anyway so if they test higher than the others for iR also then I know not to use them.

Told you before! ... (Makes me wonder why I bother posting.)
IR changes with cell voltage, very low cell with read drastically high IR.

One really good reason besides the extra cycles is I would like to parallel the factory built 13S - 7P pack to the 13S - 10P pack I am building from used cells but the 13S charger charges at 53.6V or 4.2V per cell and has a special charging port wire. I would need a new plug for it to hook it up for 4.1V LiLO charge. However would like a charger that could do 3.92V for the 2,400 - 4.000 cycle range as running at 13S - 17P it should still be good for 10 - 15 miles at 3.9V - 3.6V.

Then there is the 10S - 10P pack which are really old and probably close to 1,000 cycles or more and the new 10S - 8P pack all charged at 4.2V per cell. I could probably get another 500 cycles out of the old 10S - 10P pack at 3.92V and like 1,500 extra cycles from the newer 10S - 8P pack which is probably < 500 cycles now.

13s x 4.2 = 54.6V
54.6V ÷ 14s = 3.90V
Add 1s in series!

 

[DrkAngel]

Even better ...
14s charger = 14s x 4.2 = 58.8V
58.8V ÷ 15s = 3.92V
Noticeable performance increase over 13s and 400% cycle life.

 

[latecurtis]

Those are my newer packs probably less than 250 cycles as I do not ride a lot. Could even be 100 or 150 cycles as I usually do not run them low so do partial cycles.

Cost wise I have double or triple at least more money than the loose 18650 cells I brought with me from NY and the 18650 cells I bought that are in those plastic cases I am extracting.

What you guys are saying I agree with 100%. Running 15S and charging at 14S with a 14S charger or if easier to do charging 14S at 13S. Basically having way over 50V to work with with each cell charged to 3.92V.

The problem is the 10S - 4P pack which has the two 10S 2P running parallel the 10S charger charges at 42V - 4.2V per cell.

Likewise the 13S - 7P pack has its own charging port to charge that at 13.6V.

I really do not know how to work with the charging ports coming from the BMSs. My packs are designed to run and charge in parallel so could hook up a home made 13S - 10P pack in parallel to the factory 13S - 7P pack and it would charge just like the two 10S 2P packs do off the charging cable as the other pack / packs are hooked in parallel. , , ,

but really do not have any clue how to run at 15S and charge at 14S.

I have 3S - 10P and 3S - 6P packs and a 1S - 10P and 1S 6P so could easily put together a 5S - 8P or a 2S - 7P but with separate charging ports going to BMSs it would seem that charging at anything different than what the BMS is designed for is probably not a good idea.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

What is your charger?

 

[latecurtis]

What is your charger?

I have three 10S charger but only one uses the charging port that the 10S 4P pack came with. Since the two 10S 2P hoverboard packs are in parallel with it the 10S 4P pack charges them also for 10S 8P total. Maybe 150 cycles on those.

The 13S - 7P pack has its own 53.6V charger. All those chargers charge at 4.2V per cell.

The other two 10S chargers charge the old packs > 600 cycles. Maybe 800+ Really not sure but like 6 years old.

three Samsung 10S 2P

two SONA 10S 2P

Those chargers charge thru a xt60 connecter as those packs do not have a separate charging port to any of their BMSs.

Then there is the two 6S LiPo chargers. They only do 6S though.

I know it is easier to run and charge in parallel. Packs of different voltages and BMSs in series is not easy to configure. It is why I asked as ,I got a few hundred in those packs. Not $830 though. Those LTOs and LIFEPO4 cells came to $830. 600 for the LTOs $230 for the LIFEPO4s. Probably about half that for all the 18650 cells and packs.

I googled that and got this. Too many beers to make sense but looks way too complicated.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=88319

I attempted to read and try and get what he was saying but I find it easier to express myself thru paint illustrations. A picture is worth. LOL A lot of words. Maybe :lol: more than 1,000.

It could explain a few pages or more.



Please let me know if it will work.

If not than plan B is.

Separate charging ? A 12S charger for the 13S pack and my LiPo/LILO charger for the 2S 7P pack ???????????

3.87V per cell is what a 12S charger charges 13S at which is close to 3.92V. Probably close to 500% more cycles but lower performance UNLESS it can work in series with another pack for higher overall or total voltage.

I have a 3S - 10P pack I think built with a BMS. It might be 6P. I know I can easily hook up any voltage if it will work with the BMSs. Charging though is a little more complicated.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF MY PICTURE WILL WORK AS i CAN HOOK THAT UP TOMORROW.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Is this the same motor you have?
zero 75-7
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=68543&start=225#p1662576

 

[DrkAngel]

14s charger ... 13s + 2s OK but if 13s7p with BMS, I'd put 2s8p comparable cells as a safety margin.
Equalize all cells at 3.92V before initial combination, leave as 15s permanently, but compare all voltages during test points of discharge.
If any bank goes lower, add cell. - after charged to 3.92V again.

However, most 2200mAh 7s cells are designed for 8A-15A discharges 30A for brief surges. Exceeding .5C-1C causes rapid degradation.