new eZip motor

[markz]

Take a look at the Keto diet (50g carb limit), lots of evidence it helps reduce if not eliminate type 2. Do your own research.
Low carb diet (50-100g carbs) is another option but reducing insulin (sugar) levels is the key. I never knew that fruits spike insulin, and the government issued food pyramid is a complete and utter scam. No one needs carbs especially from breads, cereal, oatmeal, rice, pasta because you can get carbs in other foods. Everyone's different, every body is different, every ones metabolism is different, some people can eat white bread by the loaf and their skinny, but even skinny people can get fatty liver disease (non alcoholic) and have a high % body fat.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea. Unfortunately I doubt I could stick with a diet. I love fresh baked bread and rolls. I also love carrot cake. My favorite cake. My favorite bread is fresh baked Italian with a dark crust and soft center for sandwiches.

My all time favorite bread is home made Banana with real ripe bananas. Have not had since I was a kid but I buy it in stores and if you add a couple ripe bananas to the quick bread mix.

I have cut down on that stuff though a lot. I still like the new McDonalds double quarter pounder deluxe. It is a lot like the Mc D LT back in the 80s. I love pizza and chicken wings with blue cheese.

I do eat some healthy foods though. Baked chicken but I love the skin. fish and am eating shrimp with garlic sauce in a few minutes. My wife is slaving over a hot stove right now. Cant have shrimp Scampi with no pasta but told her only a little pasts. Like 1/2 a normal size plate but she never listens.

Anyway I need to clean and organize the e bike workshop tonight. Since I will be spot welding cells soon I hope , I am thinking about building professional grade packs. Packs that are like factory. I wont be soldering cells any more. Done with that.

I will be doing all series connections by spot welding as well and only the BMS wires will be soldered to copper strips if they can not be spot welded. The power wires going to the XT60 plugs will need to be soldered. If I can to a 16 to 18S - 5P pack in 5 or 6 hours then could charge a modest 10 bucks an hour. + whatever the shipping is.

Tonight is a turning point for me and will be celebrating with bud ice in the bottle awhile I clean and organize the e bike workshop. I will do a short video of the madness. It is insane. The results of attempting to solder cells instead of spot welding. I have had enough practice soldering. I will attempt to solder two wires together with it and if it fails that test I am throwing it in the garbage.



I will be posting some pictures. I have a week or two before I start spot welding so need my workshop clear to work on flat tires and wiring upgrades. I am NOT upgrading the wiring I used for the Bafang motors with 17 and 18 amp controllers as I do not push Bafang motors. I have one (the DimondBack Outlook with a flat tire that has two Bafang motors. front and back each with a DC breaker and dual 17 amp controllers. That wont need the wiring upgrade 16 gauge is fine but all other e bikes are 1,000W motors or greater. They will get the 10 gauge upgrade. The e bike ling motors on the Giant Roam are 22 amp controllers. I will upgrade that to 14 gauge wiring.

It is now time for me to graduate from a Novice builder to a professional e bike builder. A master of my craft. It starts tonight and will last forever or until I am no longer alive. Maybe can transfer it to the next life. :lol:

Once the workshop is clean and organized I am digging out the FX - 75 - 5 motor. I wont be able to post pictures of the motor as was asked not to but the controller wires and the large ring terminals I need advice on. I think it is either 6 or 4 gauge wire. The reason is I will be working on the LTOs. Yes the big boy batteries. I want to build a 15S and a 9S pack. I have 24 - 18 Ah Lishen LTOs. I want to build the 15S for the Currie and the 9S for experimenting with 24V - RC and robotic motors like the 775 - 997,

However the LTOS will eventually be hooked up in series for 45 kilowatts to power the FX - 75 - 5 motor. I plan on building an electric motorcycle that will do 90 mph. My wife's son has two professional grade welders. I just need a small motorcycle frame to get started. I am seriously contemplating a road legal motorcycle if I can take my test with electric. I have no desire to learn how to ride a gas bike and learn all those gears. I never even learned a dirt bike. My first vehicle on two wheels without pedaling was the Currie ezip trailz. :lol: If I cant get my license I still want an off road electric dirt bike.

Thanks all of you and please keep posting Tomjasz said something about donating a spot welder. If not I will be ordering one so looking for a good one that is highly recommended. It is brand new to me so seeking any advice I can get. I am serious about building packs professionally and maybe opening a Amazon or e bay sellers account. I have to generate some sort of income to fund the FX - 75 - 5 project. I am starting with a bare frame. Gas bike totally stripped down. I will need lights , signals , headlamps ect. Especially if I want it road legal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Eu4yBIIi1M

Yea. I named that video Madness. I was a Mad man trying to solder 26650 cells that need to be spot welded. If the cells could speak they would really be cursing me out. :lol: :lol: :lol:

12:32 AM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktqtwGB9UJ0

Yea. I brought two Asian swamp Eels with me from NY in 2019. One died from the stress of moving. There was no chance to get another one. Got them from an Asian supermarket in Albany NY with food stamps in 2017 or 2016. He suffered the COVID19 blues as was by himself for years. Actually they are unisex creatures. A female can turn male. They have prehistoric lungs. Never evolved for land. They absorb 25% oxygen thru their skin.

Was a big deal back in the 90s in Florida Everglades as invasive species and danger to some rare birds as they eat the same insects. After 7 years studies they were de classified to minimal risk as their diet is a wide variety of small fish , worms and insects.

Poor thing would not eat for weeks during the winter and barley after that. Caught those Bass in the local pond. Started feeding them a huge Canadian nightcrawler a day since then. Was going to put them back but now the first asshole that throws a hook with a worm on it will get them and probably will die.

I decided to keep them as the Eel now eats at least a worm a day. It is a competition thing. Survival of the fittest. The Eel likes the game. Something to do every day and is not all alone. The Bass were fighting fiercely for territory for awhile but now they just try and steal worms from each other. They are all very healthy. Sometimes they get two or three a day but at least 1 and those worms are big. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol

I think in Japan they farm Eels for food. They breed quicker with 85 or 90 degree water. I got a way better idea. There are critters like certain snakes I think that if you grab their tail a section of it pops off and grows back. For Eels make them grow about two feet with a 3 foot tail. It pops off when it gets to 3 feet it pops off again and the Eel is two feet again. You could basically get twice the meat with a lot less Eels and space. A crayfish molts and sheds its skin. No pain involved. A few pet Eels can feed a family a meal a day. I might be a genius.

Still have to clean the e bike workshop. I need another beer.

Maybe instead of bio printing a cow you can grow it backwards from the tail and stop at the neck. :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I have had enough practice soldering.

'Practice" is to become better at something, you ignore the most basic, essential, fundamentals and give up "practicing" when you "master" some quazi-functional bastardization of proper soldering?

 

[latecurtis]

Practice" is to become better at something, you ignore the most basic, essential, fundamentals and give up "practicing" when you "master" some quazi-functional bastardization of proper soldering?

I gave up on nothing. I am still soldering. I have a lot of packs I am packing right now. Soldered 18650 cells I will take my time and maybe solder a few more banks of 18650 cells when my new solder iron and tips show up. Further practice should be wires and not cells. A few 18650 maybe but no 26650.

I just think for 26650 cells I should learn to spot weld. Soldering is for wires , plugs , small electronics but am thinking for battery cells the spot welder just looks quicker and more stable joints. The video showed 6 spot welds on a 18650. 26650 is bigger. I just want to stop doing things the hard way. The flux and lead solder will be great for wires and 18650 but a spot welder for 26650 I may be able to build professional packs. Maybe sell them on e Bay.

What I meant in that statement was I did solder 26650 which is very close to being impossible. The 18650 cells I soldered will not just pull apart like most of the 26650 cells. However am pulling 26650s apart with physical force as we speak and about 4 of every 5 cells separate. Others will need to heat up the solder joint.

I am getting a decent spot welder DA. What would you recommend. Tomjasz said he might donate one a couple pages back. I PM him. If not will buy a decent one for under $200. Kind of strapped for cash though. I will still need the copper strips . I want to work on the LTOs. I need a break from Lion and LIFE. I got e bikes that need tires and wiring. If I can get one under $150 possibly this month. If not under $200 next month. I need to NOT dip into my savings.

Hopefully by tomorrow I can dig out the 45 kilowatt controller for the FX - 75 -5 motor. I need those ring connecters for 4 gauge wire. I am building 15S and 9S LTO packs. 0NLY SOLDERING IS POWER WIRES !!!!! I am picking up the Currie with the 36V 1,000W chain rear and 36V 350W Bafang front hub. I want 15S LTO. Need the 4 gauge though for the FX 75 - 5 motor. Should be able to solder 10 gauge to a bullet and use the 4 gauge for the FX. The Currie has two controllers the 1,000W brush rear and 350 Bafang front.

I would be willing to trade 18650 cells for decent DC step up voltage converter > 80% efficiency I would rather run LTO at 9 or 15S and convert voltage to what I want for e bikes. I may need a few more LTOs for the FX 75 so would love to sell 18650 and LIFE but with spot welder maybe build AND SELL.

I want to buy a lot more LTOs for electric motorcycles and maybe a future electric car that drives itself. If I invest in LTO when solid state and tesla batteries come mainstream LTO will be dirt cheap. Maybe 70 to 90% cheaper than today. The top of my bucket list is a self driving car with no steering wheel and some of my old friends if any survive (most are dead) riding around on the old country roads drinking massive amounts of alcohol and getting high as a kite. Listening to Hells Bells by AC/DC.

:lol: :lol:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R--N7m3Fbk&t=6s

Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcIOYXI8eKs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6--ZOGj0gQ

Yea. Got that for 5 bucks. Needed 3V. 2 AA LOL I did not have any that am not using for a remote.

Yea. First video. Fascinated with wheels and motors. Ampflow works great at 5.000+ RPM @ 24V with a 12 or 14" wheel. Another Bucket list deal. A 3 wheel e bike with a 4 to 6 HP motor/motors powering the third wheel. :lol:

9 LTOs are 24V. Rather run some 8 or 6 gauge wire and build 24V 40+ mph e bikes with LTO than 36 to 60V e bikes with Lion or LIFE. Like the idea of voltage step up converters. But only if higher voltage is the only option. Lot of 24V robot and RC motor options out there. Not saying LTO is best battery in the world as Tesla has an answer to Solid state right now. Solid state still in development. Right now though LTOs are #!. When those 4680 tesla cells and solid state batteries re sold on e bay the LTO price will plummet. That is my guess. Maybe lower than SLA. Actually SLA is still kind of expensive. Most expensive as only like 300 cycles. LTO - 10K + cycles and I own 24 - 18 Ah cells.

Would love to hear some comments on that.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Blacklite]

I do hope you have good liability insurance if you decide to sell on eBay.

 

[latecurtis]

I do hope you have good liability insurance if you decide to sell on eBay.

yea. i SEE YOUR POINT.

I am changing things though.

I started in 2013 0r 2014 here on ES.

Never even knew e bikes existed before then.

This post started around 2014 I think when I bought a Currie ezip. I learned a lot.

Started with SLA. An ES member sent me LiPo

I was scared of them But ran them for several years.

Years passed.

I bought Lithium ion.

I learned how to solder but not the best in the world.

I would rather not fool around with inferior battery technologies anyway.

Basically it is a different story when you get stuck with a battery technology limited to 1,000 full cycles or less. LTO is about 10 times that. So what if you run a step up voltage converter that is only 80% or more efficient. LTO will still save you tons of money in the long run.

Think about that. I still have not run them but wasting any more time on inferior battery technology seems kind of stupid.

Might be a little drunk but I have a point.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274832945681?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338746425&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

 

[markz]

Looks beefy but be careful with those as they might overestimate the specs.
Not sure what their general efficiency is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274832945681?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338746425&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

 

[latecurtis]

Looks beefy but be careful with those as they might overestimate the specs.
Not sure what their general efficiency is.

Yep.

I watched a review on youtube. Basically those 1,500W units are all the same. The video showed three that burnt out testing. The one he was testing had a larger heat sink than the other three. All under $50.

A classic example of you get what you pay for. I found this unit on Ali express.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000034597185.html



I have not decided how many LTOs I will be running. I have not even got around to building a box or even attempted to hook them in series yet. I just know 24 LTOs are 60V ?????????????????. I am not even sure about that.

When I get more information I will know more. I do know the 1,500W booster is garbage. It says in the video it needs more cooling to even run it past 15 amps. :lol: They rated it at 20 to 25 amps but the manufacture is stating it needs to be upgraded to even do that. :lol: At least they are honest.

I am looking for an enclosed unit that is rated at about double the amps and wattage I will be using. That way I know it wont fail on me 10 or 20 miles away from home.

If anyone knows of a decent unit under $100 please let me know. I am not sure which way to go. I can not afford a DC booster and a spot welder in one month. Actually that is like 3 or 4 month budjet as I am supposed to be limiting my spending to around $50 a month.

I need to be 100% sure I do not order junk. That goes for spot welders as well as DC boosters.

I know DA has NOT recommended a booster but he will know the difference between a good one or cheap Chinese garbage. The same goes for spot welders.

Any feedback from anyone about either will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Throwing more money onto the pile.

Well I guess I should read the what your going to use it for.

So what if you run a step up voltage converter that is only 80% or more efficient. LTO will still save you tons of money in the long run.

You want to go with your LTO that can go 10,000 cycles and you need to boost voltage because your going like 24V and you want 36V or something right? Well I may very well be mistaken in that the further the voltages are from each other the worse the efficiency but do use the ES search function.

I read about one ES member who was using a tool pack battery of like 18V 5S2P and using a boost converter to reach 36V, not sure of the results but he probably dove deep into the efficiencies and such. Post must've been 3-4 yrs ago now, time flies. It'd probably take some time to search for that thread, have fun.

Looks beefy but be careful with those as they might overestimate the specs.
Not sure what their general efficiency is.

Yep.

I watched a review on youtube. Basically those 1,500W units are all the same. The video showed three that burnt out testing. The one he was testing had a larger heat sink than the other three. All under $50.

A classic example of you get what you pay for. I found this unit on Ali express.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000034597185.html

 

[latecurtis]

Wall-Mart has 12 gauge wire




Awhile I am waiting for a spot welder for the 26650 cells I will be building a 150 cell - 1,500W - 15S - 10P - 18650 pack. I will use balance connecters to keep the packs in balance but ordering a 14S charger to charge. I have three external balancers to check each pack and balance when needed.

I will cut the wires coming from the cells down to about 2 - 1/2" and strip 1 - 1/2 " bare wire to wrap around the 12 gauge wire and strip a length of 16 gauge wire to wrap around the 12 gauge wire over top all the connections then apply flux and solder to all 10 connection points. Then liquid tape and sandwich it between two pieces of gorilla tape. so the result will be = to 10 gauge. The same with the series connections.

The reason is the 10 gauge wire from Home Depot falls apart when stripping off the insulation. I can still use it for power wires and solder XT60 plugs and upgrade all the wiring but for building batteries I need wire that is less brittle and easier to work with so was glad to see that at Wall Mart. I picked up a 12 foot roll of red and black.

I will be testing each cell for iR and voltage. A lot of the cells are already in parallel so will need to separate and do the internal resistance and voltage test a week later. It must be capable of 1,500W for longer than a minute, Maybe 5 or 10 minutes. I will be running it hard with the 1,800W motor.

I am waiting until I get the spot welder and more 26650 cells to build a 18S - 60V - 3 killowatt pack exclusivelly for the 3 kilowatt motor. That may not happen until this fall.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/24V-36V-TO-48V-30A-STEP_60737942315.html

Yea. There are lots of units out there.

Looking for a good one.

Same goes for spot welders.

I can not afford any more mistakes. Mistakes cost too much money. I have wasted enough money on junk.

12 - LTOs hooked to a booster should be 30V so will be less than 18 Ah @ 48 or 53V. It will be > 10 AH though.

30V @ 18 Ah = 60V @ 9 Ah so 45V should be 12 AH. A little les as 90% efficiency. 12 * 90% = 10.8 AH. I do not want a booster < 90% efficiency then.

I know DA has NOT recommended a booster for the LTOs but he will know the difference between a good one or cheap Chinese garbage. The same goes for spot welders.

Any feedback from anyone about either will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

12:32 AM.

I think I solved the flat tire and pothole problem. Or somebody did. :lol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrPgGHy95Jg

Good project there. Maybe two 3 kilowatt motors. i front and 1 rear for an e bike. A 250cc dirt bike frame for the FX - 75-5 motor. I just googled car wheel bicycle and it came up. Nothing came up for car wheel e bike though.

I like this idea also. Lots of space for batteries and controller.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMUrJhet-1M

Imagine the gear reduction on that.

I want one of each. :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

http://adaptto.com/Products/BMS/



That BMS above the chart is the only one that balances at 4.1V instead of 4.2V. I got that off this forum when I googled it doing research.

I have the 10S and 13S factory built Lion packs I just bought a year or two ago and sometimes I do not use them for a week or more at a time. They sit around. Maybe 3 times a month each pack for 5 to 10 mile trips.

Since I saw that chart I have been trying to pull them off the charger at around 4V. A little less if possible. I know that they need the 4.2V to balance properly so now if I intend on using them I plug them in two to three hours before I run them and as soon as the light on the charger turns green I treat it like a traffic light. GO.

That way they are not sitting around for days or weeks at 4,2V. It just makes sense. Not sure how many more cycles I will get but hopefully a lot. At least double. I know just charging at 4.2V will take away many cycles but how many ? I read that it causes more damage to the cells just letting them sit in that state . 4.2V for awhile. The longer the more damage so Now as soon as they hit full charge , 4.2V I haul them downstairs , hook them up and run them.



I can fit 12 cells in a row on the bottom. I can stack up to 6 high. Since I am building 10P that is 6S - 10P and if I stack 5 high with the two cells on the end I can get a 1S - 10P pack and a 6S - 10P pack in each of those. Two of them would be 14S then. If I balance charge the 6S packs at 4.1V with the LiLo balance function I should be good. I will try and do the same thing though. Stop at 4.0V or 3.92 - 3.95 and plug it back in the night before or a few hours before I run them and balance charge to 4.1V with the LiLo function. From what I have read it is also safer with old used batteries.

I have a lot of cells to test so came up with a system last night. I can mark voltage with a sharpie so separating into banks of 10 should be simple. The thing that will hold everything up is separating all the parallel packs I already wired up then waiting a week to see where each cell voltage settled to. Used cells of different make require a lot more time to build as extensive testing and a week of shelf life is required.

If I could get a sweet deal on LiPos I think I would order them as this 14S pack will take a lot of time. At least a month or two. Same with the LIFEPO4s. I still need a spot welder. What is worse some of the cells I soldered wont pull apart. Some will but still solder on the cell so will not be able to spot weld them unless I remove the solder and clean the cell. I really do not know what to do with those ???????????????????????????????/ Any suggestions will be appreciated.




I could not get the nut off that was rusted on so sprayed it with WD 40. last night / early morning. Hopefully will have better luck with it tonight. It is a 48V - 800W motor but ran it at 10S - 36V most of its life. That is what I am working on now. I will upgrade the wiring to 10 gauge and can run the 13S - 7P battery. It will perform very well on flat and up hills. The battery rack that also mounts the controller is also cracked. It did not hold up and just like the Giant Roam it needs to be re built from scratch. The Giant Roam is in brand new condition. This 20" Turbo bike needs a lot of TLC. There is probably rust on other areas of the bike as well.

The Diamondback with the two Bafangs in the van also has a flat on the back. There are two extra Bafangs I am keeping right next to it. I was going to give one away but the guy is in Florida and he left the black dual suspension and the 1,000W 48V unite motor I soldered and two controllers and a chain all at his brothers house in the garage. He never even tried to hook it up so am done. I gave his brother the Clear Creek Schwinn with a 36V 800W motor as well as three 7.5 Ah SLAs. He never rides that either.
I have been more than generous.

I will just remove the Bafang with the flat and throw on one of the Bafangs in the van I am not using. When I get another flat I will throw the other Bafang on it. It only goes 20 mph but the acceleration from 0 to 20 mph is awesome. It also does small hills no problem and do not even need to upgrade the 16 gauge wiring as there are two controllers and only 350watt motors. I don't push them hard. 1/2 throttle gets it to top speed. If I do encounter a long steep hill as soon as the motors start slowing down I will get off and push it up a hill.

The Currie will be back in less than a week so that can get the 10 gauge upgrade as well. The Bafang on the front wont need 10 gauge wire either. Only 18 amp controller.

The e bikeling motors use 22 amp controllers so will use the 12 gauge wire for them on the Giant Roam. I suppose I will have to re wire the entire 1,500W controller hooked up to the 1,800W brushless motor. The voltage drop and power loss very well could be the 16 gauge wire failing somewhere as that is the most powerful bike I own and was pushing 1,500W thru 16 gauge wire. Hopefully the 10 gauge wire will fix that problem.

I doubt it is the new 10S - 8P battery But if I rewire it and it does the same thing with the 10S battery then I will know. Likewise if the 10S battery cuts out on another bike I will know it is the pack. I will then have to find out which pack. There are two 10S - 2P hoverboard packs and a 10S - 4P e bike pack which has the charge port and charges all the packs in parallel. I separated them and tested voltage and all were the same so put them back in parallel. They are sitting right now at 40V. 4.0V per cell.

If I am planning on building packs ongoing with a spot welder and Weller 100 watt iron with the extra large screw driver tips I ordered I need to set up my workshop to do capacity and discharge testing. Then I will know if a BMS is cutting out or LVC or something.

The next time I go to Wall-Mart I will be getting a large hard plastic Hyper tough tool box. I think it is large enough to stack up at least 9 LTOs. they have a 19" and 22" box I think. I might have to bring an LTO or take measurements. I know I cant mount anything like that to a 20" bike without a rear rack and then will be too heavy in the back.

I wish someone would let me know what is the best DC booster for the job. Looking at 24V in to 48V out. Maybe 36 in but not sure about 15 - LTOs. A lot of weight and space. 12 is 30V and I have 24 - LTOs so kind of makes sense. I will still get > 12 AH @ 48V.

Also I need a good reliable spot welder. I do not want to order the wrong one. I will need to watch a video on how to remove solder. I can heat up the solder with the Weller iron but need a way to remove it in the liquid state so I can clean and spot weld.



I need to order the ring connecters for the LTOs. I still never got any answer if 24 - LTOs will work with the FX - 75 - 5 motor ?????

The controller is 45 kilowatts I think. I did not know there was thicker than 1 gauge wire but found that chart. I will have to dig half way to China to get to the 45 kilowatt controller to measure the wire. I know it was thicker than car battery wire to the terminals. I need the LTOs to run the FX - 75-5 motor in the future and e bikes much sooner. I might need more LTOs to get closer to 100 volts. What will 60V of LTO do ????? 60 mph ? 70 mph ? I was looking for 90 mph ? How many more 18 Ah - LTOs will I need for 90 mph ????? Will it do 60 mph now at 60V ?????????????

What range will I get ????? < 5 miles ????? < 3 miles ????? I wish DA would do a speed vs range chart and a voltage vs speed chart for 18 Ah Lishen battery and 45 kilowatt controller so I know what I need. There is no way in a million years I will be hooking any of that up. I will need to get it professionally done so I can just turn the system on to run and plug in to charge like any large EV. I do need the right components though as will be paying top dollar for an electrician. If I do not have the right wire , DC breaker or something it will be an expensive disaster.

I hope to get some feedback on any of these topics.

Thanks.

LC. out.

10:43 PM.

Yes. I can fit 12 to 15 LTOs in that tool box no problem. I really do not know how that happened. (middle pic) bottom. They have been kept inside the boxes they came in since I got them. Must have been shipped that way.

I know nothing about LTOs. I don't think they should be touching each other though. I will need to space them with 1/4" pieces of wood to separate them. 6 cells on the bottom with 6 on top if I go 30V. I can cut the wood with a jig saw and glue them together so no cells can touch another. Then hook up the < 1 gauge wire. I will need to order ring terminals gold plated and solder the wires to the terminals.

I really wish someone would post. I need to order a spot welder for the 26650 cells. Something to de solder those also. Something that will suck the solder off the cells when I melt the solder. All the LIFE cells need to be cleaned up and spot welded with copper strips. The bottom pics below show a horrible attempt to solder a single 10 gauge piece. NOT happening any time soon. :lol:

I need to know what is required for the LTOs so I can run the 45 kilowatt controller. Then I need to know about DC boosters. I need a good one to go from 30V to 48 and 60V.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Sorry, just scanned and only read the last bit.

Solder or solder pump which Walmart won't be selling.
Its pretty basic stuff.

I need to know what is required for the LTOs so I can run the 45 kilowatt controller. Then I need to know about DC boosters. I need a good one to go from 30V to 48 and 60V.

45kw is way over your budget and knowledge level and skill level. Your dealing with deadly voltages Curtis.

Your going to need high voltages and high amps and thousands of dollars just for the controller is my guess, I am not into ev tech, which is why they use 100's and 100's of volts and 100's and 100's of amps to achieve high wattages, your also talking an expensive crimper tool and welder gauge cables with proper routing and proper protections and proper housings and proper knowledge and proper skill level, so no electrical tape usage for you, no 200W iron will suffice.

Instead of losing 100's of dollars on simple ebike stuff
@ 45kw you'll be upping your game and losing thousands.
Just buy a used Zero motorcycle or used Chevy Volt otherwise spending hours searching and researching, and posting.

Or, just get your ebikes working, its about priorities not dreaming. Master the basic stuff before you move on to bigger projects.

 

[latecurtis]

Solder or solder pump which Walmart won't be selling.
Its pretty basic stuff.

Thank you. Now that I know what it is called I can order one when I order that lead based flux and solder DA posted the link to. The solder Wall-Mart sells is Rosin core and has a warning that it contains lead and causes cancer. I have been using that.

45kw is way over your budget and knowledge level and skill level. Your dealing with deadly voltages Curtis.

Your going to need high voltages and high amps and thousands of dollars just for the controller is my guess, I am not into ev tech, which is why they use 100's and 100's of volts and 100's and 100's of amps to achieve high wattages, your also talking an expensive crimper tool and welder gauge cables with proper routing and proper protections and proper housings and proper knowledge and proper skill level, so no electrical tape usage for you, no 200W iron will suffice.

Yes I know. I do have the controller. It came with the motor. The person who sent the motor told me not to post pictures of it on the forum and I will respect his wishes however I can PM you it I think.

Also the controller came with extra terminals. I will dig it out later and post them. (just the terminals). I plan on having it done by a professional electrician however they get top dollar so any work I can do before will save me hundreds.

The first thing I can do is get the series connections done in the LTOs and if I use the same gauge wire as the controller which is really heavy duty wire then when it comes the time to hook the LTOs to the 45 kilowatt controller I will not have to re do the series connections.

I know my limitations but this is what needs to happen before an electrician starts working on the clock. I have a person who will do any welding needed dirt cheap. My wife has a son who lives about 20 minutes away with two professional welders.

1. - A used 250cc or similar dirt bike frame. - All gas components stripped. - new paint.

2. FX motor mounted in the frame and belt drive hooked up.

3. LTO batteries installed in the frame and bolted down properly.

4. Controller mounted in the frame nice and secure.

5. All lights , turn signals , horn and rear view mirror installed. ( street legal)

The electricians job will be hooking the controller to the motor and hooking up a EV charger that can be charged in any EV charging port in the USA. An alternate charging port for 110V.


I am still getting a spot welder for the LIFE cells

I was wondering what or IF DA uses a spot welder ???????

I know Tomjasz uses them but now that I finally agree with him and want to get one he stopped posting ?????????
I spent a great deal of money on the LIFEPO4 cells. $230 I think. I also will need more if I want 60V.

Not sure if DA is mad at me for not soldering them. I did not give up on soldering. I just gave up on soldering LIFEPO4 - 26650 cells. I do not see anyone doing it in any video on You tube. I will continue to solder 18650 cells and am going to build a 14S - 10P - 18650 pack. I just want to separate all the cells I paralleled up and let them set a week and then test voltage and internal resistance.

Also I have bikes I have to fix tires , I have extensive re wiring as any motor over 500 watts will get 12 or 10 gauge wiring. I also need to re build at least two battery racks but as soon as those projects are done I will be working on soldering the 14S - 10P 18650 pack.

Then when I get the spot welder set up I will build a 60V - 26650 pack with a BMS and will use the best you tube video for an example and build it to those exact specifications.

After that I will get the really thick < 1 gauge wire and the ring terminals and build the LTO - pack. However am looking at two 12S - LTO packs for 30V each. 12 - LTOs are the maximum for an e bike due to size and weight. A GOOD QUALITY > 90% DC/DC voltage booster will get me from 30V to 48 or 53. - I will not need 60V as I will have the LIFE pack for that.

I will probably need 12 more - LTOs for 90V total for the FX - 75-5 motor. That will happen after I get all the other things done and before the electrician. Looking at three - 12S - 18Ah - LTO packs with a BMS. The BMSs will need to be the same for each as they will be in series when hooked to the FX controller. They will need to be about 300 amps I think. Maybe 500 amps. 45,000W / 90V = 500.

Not sure about all that as do not know all the specifics on the motor and controller. For all I know the BMS could be built in the controller. I will need a lot of information before I order anything but can do the series connections to the LTOs. I know gearing will be for 90 mph for the FX motor.

Thank you for posting. I hope DA and Tomajasz and even Backlight will read this. I am trying to listen to the good advice here and start building more professional and reliable e bikes so now would be a lousy time for them to stop posting. I will PM SUNDER but have not heard from him in awhile.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Check to see what your specs are for the controller you got with that motor.
Take some pictures of it if your allowed to, any stickers on it or a name or model # to google?

I just checked out a few controllers on Kelly website, I never realized there were controllers with such high phase current at such low voltages. I was expecting 120V/144V+, not 72V. Luckily some chemistries can handle such high discharge current, a123 26650 @ 50A/120A. Seen that one LTO can do 10C 400A on 40Ah can.
KHB - High Power Opto-Isolated Brushless Motor Controller With Regen (72V-144V) (150A-1000A) $1300
https://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/khb/
72V 1000A $1100
72V 700A $900
Must be some massive traces and beefy electronic components inside to handle that kind of current.

 

[Blacklite]

Thank you for posting. I hope DA and Tomajasz and even Backlight will read this. I am trying to listen to the good advice here and start building more professional and reliable e bikes so now would be a lousy time for them to stop posting. I will PM SUNDER but have not heard from him in awhile.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Why don’t you choose one bike and get it correct. Forget about working on 5 bikes at once. Get one built perfectly, not half-assed or only partially completed.

 

[Chalo]

Thank you for posting. I hope DA and Tomajasz and even Backlight will read this. I am trying to listen to the good advice here and start building more professional and reliable e bikes so now would be a lousy time for them to stop posting. I will PM SUNDER but have not heard from him in awhile.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Why don’t you choose one bike and get it correct. Forget about working on 5 bikes at once. Get one built perfectly, not half-assed or only partially completed.

You must be new here.

 

[latecurtis]

Check to see what your specs are for the controller you got with that motor.
Take some pictures of it if your allowed to, any stickers on it or a name or model # to google?

Yea. I did that last night when the forum was down.



I separated several 18650 packs that were charged and in parallel. They were 1S - 10P and 1S - 6P packs with all the long wires. The 6P packs were solderless. I will let them sit a week or two then measure internal resistance and voltage.

The trick with the iR meter is to press the test nodes tight against the cell otherwise it will fluctuate wildly. I get nice stable readings so will be able to weed out the cells with a high internal resistance and or low voltage.

When I get 140 cells I will be building two 6S and two 1S packs. They will fit in two little black boxes like the one I put the newer 10S - 8P Lion pack in. 12 cells in a row fit on the bottom 6 cells high so can do 6 - 10S - 10P and go five cells high for the other two for a 1S - 10P. - 70 cells in each box. When I get a spot welder can fit a 6S - 5P - LIFEPO$ pack in each black box. I need more cells though to do three 6S packs for 60V.

I will need at least 4 more Lishen - 18Ah - LTOs for 80V. Hopefully can get a deal so wont have to spend 300 bucks on a box of 12. I remember now. I was told I could upgrade to a 45 kilowatt controller. That controller is 28 kilowatts. 350 amps * 80V = 28,000W. That is 37 horsepower. Should be good for 75 mph gearing. Fast enough for the Thru way. Must be able to do 65 mph on the thru way I think. I never built anything like that. I will need a lot of help with it.

In the meantime I still need a spot welder for the LIFEPO4 cells. Not sure about the 18650. I might spot weld them also. I just need to get the best one I can get under $200. Harbor freight has one for $155 but after buying that lousy excuse for a solder gun I am not ready to go back there any time soon. Was thinking about Amazon for that. I am glad you are posting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpqjleq9mtM

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000241933697.html?aff_fcid=72dbda2931594348982ad929a35d9db8-1626740304298-06946-_AT94YB&aff_fsk=_AT94YB&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_AT94YB&aff_trace_key=72dbda2931594348982ad929a35d9db8-1626740304298-06946-_AT94YB&cn=www.youtube.com&dp=zhenax.net&terminal_id=9581d40076cb4e08aa1132a6f5058123&tmLog=new_Detail



I saw mixed reviews on those. Some folks needed to upgrade it for more current. I am very skeptical especially dealing with 26650 cells. I would need to actually see a spot welder do 26650 cells before I will order one. Not sure how much the upgrade would cost. I know I would not be doing it. Maybe DA would do it for me if it is not a lot of time and labor to do ???????

I just know I have bought enough junk to last a life time. Until I can find the perfect tool to do the 26650 cells and do the job right I am not buying anything.

The series connection for the LTOs should be straight forwards. I will need the correct gauge wire for 350 amps. The same size as the wire in the pic. I took which is probably larger than 1 gauge. Then solder the right size ring terminals. I have no clue on a BMS though. I will be doing research on 350 amp 28 - 30 kilowatt BMSs. I might need to save up for that and just get a cheap 2 or 3 kilowatt 30V BMS for e bikes and a quality DC voltage booster and worry about a 350 amp BMS later when I am actually building an electric motorcycle for the FX motor.

Please let me know. I need proof like a video spot welding 26650 cells before I order anything. Or someone who has already spot welded 26650 cells.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Is your Sevcon Gen4 80V 350A controller programmed?
Do you know how to program it and use CANbus and have the dongle?

https://www.electricmotorsport.com/sevcon-gen4-110-300.html

Integrated I/O

Gen4 includes a fully-integrated set of inputs and outputs (I/0) designed to handle a wide range of vehicle requirements. This eliminated the need for additional external I/O modules or vehicle controllers and connectors.
- 8 digital inputs
- 2 analogue inputs (can be configured as digital)
- 3 contactor/solenoid outputs
- 1 encoder supply output - programmable 5V or 10V

Other Features

- A CANopen bus allows easy interconnection of controllers and devices such as displays and driver controls.
- The CANbus allows the user to wire the vehicle to best suit vehicle layout since inputs and outputs can be connected to any of the controllers on the vehicle and the desired status is passed over the CAN network to the relevant motor controller.
- The Gen4 controller can dynamically change the allowed battery current by exchanging CAN messages with a compatible Battery Management System.
- Configurable as vehicle control master or motor slave.

Configuration Tools

Sevcon offers a range of configuration tools for the Gen4 controller, with options for Windows based PC or calibrator handset unit. These tools provide a simple yet powerful means of accessing the CANopen bus for diagnostics or parameter adjustment. The handset unit features password protected access levels and a customized logo start-up screen.

https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/images/Gen4%20Product%20Manual%20V3%204.pdf

InterfacesIn addition to its motor control functions, Gen4 offers many other functions designed to interface with electric vehicles. A variety of digital and analogueinput sources are supported, as listed in ‘Signal connections’ on page 3-14.Voltage and current control of up to three contactors or proportional valves is provided by Gen4, and includes built-in freewheeling diodes for spike suppression. All I/O on the Gen4 controller is protected against short-circuit to the battery positive and negative terminals.Connectivity and interoperability with other system devices (for example another Gen4 controller) using a CANbus and the CANopen protocol is provided. In addition to in-service operation, the CANopen protocol allows the controller to be commissioned using the Calibrator handset or Sevcon’s DVTtool. In addition Sevcon’s SCWiz PC based tool provides the function toself-characterizemost induction motors and hence simplify the process of putting a new motor into service. For simple visual diagnosis of system faults and to monitor system status, a green LED is provided on the body of the controller. It is continuously lit when there is no fault but flashes a different number of times, in a repeated pattern, when there is a fault. The number of flashes indicates the type of fault (see ‘’ on page 1).

 

[latecurtis]

Is your Sevcon Gen4 80V 350A controller programmed?
Do you know how to program it and use CANbus and have the dongle?

You might as well wrote that in Chinese as I have no clue what so ever.

I do know the gauge wire I will need to make the series connections for the LTOs and if I have 24 - LTOs for 60V I will need 8 more in series for 80V so need to order another 12 for $300.

Basically I am taking baby steps to build this. I am looking at a beefy 250cc dirt bike frame. Or a small road bike around 35 to 50 HP. If I can find one with working lights and turn signals , horn ect. with good wiring that is a big plus. Not a lot of rust. I plan on sand blasting and painting the frame. (see bottom pic for frame) That is minimum requirements in horsepower and torque handling. The frame must be able to handle that.

Next step is installing the motor. I will have access to welding equipment and a professional welder. Then I will need to hook up the belt drive to the rear wheel somehow. That I also have no clue about. Basically I will need help hooking that up as well as the controller and the BMS.

I was hoping I could do everything I can and get some help from DA. He is closer to where I live. I might be able to hook up a BMS but actually hooking the controller up and programming it I will need help with. I will also need to be able to fast charge at any EV station and thru 110V for when I am home or have access to an outside plug. 18 AH is really not a lot. Not sure how far I can even go with an 18 Ah battery ????? DA. would be able to answer that.

That is a long time away though. Right now I am looking for a good reliable spot welder that can do the job without having to upgrade it. I am thinking under $200 if possible. I have the LIFEPO4 cells and maybe will spot weld the 18650 cells but do not need to. The 100 watt Weller iron is in at the post office with all the big screw driver tips. It is why I took the night off from drinking. I am usually drunk at this hour but went to bed around 11:30 PM and just woke up. I can only sleep about 5 hours when I don't drink.

Awhile I am waiting the week for the cells I unhooked from their parallel state I need to extract the 3 cells from each plastic case for those 18650 cells I bought that were for some life monitor vest. About 100 to 150 cells. My guess is that the 10S - 8P newer Lion pack I was running with the 1,800W brushless motor was tripping the LVC due to voltage SAG as the way I see things now is a 10S - 8P pack is 80 cells so an 800 watt battery. Sure it can put out more as a 18650 cell can do more than 10 watts each, DA, said 18 watts I think but when factoring in voltage SAG it can also fail.

I am looking at 140 cells for the 14S - 10P pack but can charge at 13S for 3.92V per cell. That is what I will need for the 1,000W 26" hub motor as then I wont have to worry about SAG. For the 1,800W brushless motor the 13S - 7P in parallel with the 14S - 10P but charged to 13S by the 13S charger I use to charge 13S. It should work as the same voltage and chemistry. ??????????

The 800W - 20" Turbo got the new tire and tube. That bike as well as the 26" Diamondback Outlook will run the 10S - 8P pack. I can also run the Bafang on the front of the 26" dual suspension.

The Currie I will be picking up in a day. The 21 or 22 I think. It will have no battery. The reason is I am not hooking the 10S - 8P pack to it as it is about 1,500W and that is an 800 watt battery. Good for two Bafangs or the 800W 20" hub motor. I could use the old 10S 10P packs I have had for years but do not choose to, They are too old and could catch on fire due to severe voltage SAG.

The Currie needs the LTOs for the 1,000W 36V chain and 350W Bafang as they hook to a single battery. I am going to need a 12S BMS for 12 - LTOs and the DC step up booster. Total boost for that set up will only be from 30V to 42V. That is not a lot but want a booster with > 90% efficiency.

So I am back to where I was several posts ago.

I need three things A.S.A.P.

1. - A good spot welder that can do 26650 cells perfect the first time.

2. A BMS for 12 - LTOs and a charger.

3. A voltage DC booster rated at 1,500W minimum that can do 30V in and up to 60V out. That covers the 3 killowatt brushless motor if I fail to build the 18S LIFEPO4 pack. I will eventually build it but not wasting money on a spot welder that wont do the job. If I can get 60V with 12 - LTOs and a booster first than I will.

7/20/21

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2noz_7PGsA

The reviews on the Sunkko spot welders are not all that good. They need upgraded parts for more current. Not something I want to do.


Will this spot welder work for 26650 cells ???? I will look for reviews when I get back from post office.



https://www.vevor.com/products/788h-usb-pulse-spot-welder-for-18650-soldering-battery-charger-test-800a-1-9kw?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6NmHBhD2ARIsAI3hrM0T-EUAy8t95_lfcZsrlXXQ1fjCuSzqJCw93O2DuXs-4agN6k4AVEsaAqEBEALw_wcB

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6VbBByIvq8

That is a little portable unit. The video shows good spot welds but then that is not a 26650 cell. ?????????

Also it requires a battery I think or a separate DC power supply. It is not built in. Not sure about it but the video shows good quality spot welds. It is > $200 though and needs a high current power supply.


I am on my way to the post office to pick up my new Weller soldering iron and the extra tips.

I will be building a 14S pack of 18650 cells A.S.A.P.

I plan on charging at 13S - 54.6V.

Here is my diagram. I would like to know if this will work ??????????????????????????????????

I would like to charge and balance at the same time but not sure if the balancers I own can handle that. If not I can order balancers that will. I do not want a BMS as then am stuck charging to 4.2V per cell to balance properly. I am looking for 3.9V per cell and properly balanced packs. That way I can get 1,000 cycles from used cells.

I could balance before or after charging. What would work the best. Can I keep them in series at 14S - 10P when balancing ??????

Please let me know.






Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I picked that up for $20 at Wall Fart.

I bought a 1,700 lumens a year or so ago I never used. It takes a 12V battery which I made 3S - 6P with a BMS from 18650 cells. That would probably last a couple days.

I like this better though as charges from a USB. I zip tied it to the wire basket on the front of the 20" turbo. I got that running great. It has 12 gauge wiring. The wiring harness coming from the 800W controller is 12 gauge and hooked 12 gauge up to the breaker and XT60 plug.

I ran it today about 10 miles or so. Am charging the 10S - 8P pack now. I did not run it hard but did discharge it to a little over 37V. It did not cut out with the 20" Turbo. Went up the same little hills as the 1,800W motor but at 10 mph and not 20 mph. I do not want to damage the 10S - 8P battery as it is an 800 watt battery as far as I am concerned. My new golden rule is 10 watts per 18560 cell. New or used.

I guess nobody is posting.

I will just run the 20" Turbo and the 26" Diamondback Outlook with the two Bafang motors then. I am not wasting any more money on junk. The LTOs and 26650 LIFEPO4 can sit and collect dust. I have the new Weller 100 watt iron and plenty of extra large tips so can monkey around with the used 18650 cells I guess.

I did call FEDX a few days ago and $14 one way to ship 15 pounds of LIFEPO4. That is about $30 both ways. If DA. wants to make $100 I will order another box of 26650 cells and send all the LIFEPO4s to DA and a 18S BMS. I want a professional 3 kilowatt pack for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. I am sick of fooling around with it. Should have spent my money on a pack already built.

If it is a deal I can order the other box of 15 - 26650 cells for an 18S pack and test the cells I have for damage awhile I wait for the box and on the 3rd of August send them out with $100 or $130 in the box. FedX is quick and reliable. That is how I got all my Bafang motors. Six of them.

DA. Please let me know. Not sure how long it will take to spot weld then together. Should only be 4 or 5 hours for you. I just need to test the iR and voltage. I can put that on the cell. I never de soldered cells before though so an extra 20 or 30 for that ???????

Please let me know or post a link for a spot welder under $200 if one exists that can do the job with out some expensive upgrade.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Sorry, I have only built batteries for locals where I can monitor battery condition and proper use, and have no intention of doing anything more.

Have not had ambition or opportunity, this year, to build anything more than a 12.8V 100Ah (1.28kWh) LiFePO₄, as auxiliary power for camper van. For 12VDC (electric blanket, led lighting etc), 120VAC inverter (CPAP, coffee pot etc.) and 5V usb (recharge phone, cordless fan etc.). Still have large quantities of 26650 LiFePO₄ to reprocess and several 36V 14Ah battery packs to process.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3y1iglhGco

After watching that video I am in no big rush to throw my money away.

DA. Do you solder or spot weld 26650 cells. If you have a spot welder what model is it ???????

I can not or will not buy anything until I see it actually do the job correct the first time or after simple calibrations. Any type of machine you have to take apart and upgrade to spot weld a battery cell I want no part of.

Then there are all these cheap portable spot welders some for under 50 bucks and between 50 and 100 bucks. They have an internal battery which charges thru the USB. ????????? Looks kind of sketchy to me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09634LXWB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09634LXWB&pd_rd_w=7ymuh&pf_rd_p=91afecf5-8b2e-41e2-9f11-dc6992c6eaa1&pd_rd_wg=lGKXK&pf_rd_r=HKHJK1V2NK1ZNXK8R517&pd_rd_r=38245a0a-471e-45d3-84f6-be0f67728359&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUlJSVkY1Vks0S1BPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU2NTYyRUcxNlkwWVFGWjNGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NjA0NjcxMUQzWUtDNDNJRDJPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Tomajsz said he had a spot welder he was going to donate but he stopped posting. I am sure he must have more than one then. I just need to know where I can get a good one and not cheap Chinese junk.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBrLQ75ffY4

I just found that.



Sounds too good to be true.

What do you think ?????????????

Looks like a $25 or $30 gamble. Not sure how much the tax is.


If anyone watches the video I would like an opinion.

Please let me know.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Don't give up on soldering, just try following instructions?