new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

The Weller works. Not sure why DA said I was melting all the solder at too high a temperature and the Weller has the magic temp. ? I have to feed the solder way faster as is thinner and if I don't will just evaporate. The Weller is way hotter than the 60 watt irons. However the solder DA. recommended sticks way better than the cheap Wall Mart junk even though the Wall Mart solder says it has lead in it.

Ok I did see the solder NOT sticking to the 60 watt iron tip. Not possible to tin. DA was right about the magic temperature. I could not de solder the 26650 cells with a 60 watt iron. Iip might be hotter but not larger. Not only could I de solder with the Weller but easily re soldered a wire no problem at all.

The "angle tip" you are using is a knife tip, for cutting plastic etc., might even be plated to repel anything sticking to it. Regardless, it is damaged and worthless for any type of proper soldering!
The 60w can be much hotter and transfer much less heat because it cannot maintain heat.
That is not your problem though ... You overheat (burn) your tips so that solder won't stick to it. A tip coated with solder transfers heat from the majority of the tip through the solder. A burnt, oxidized or charred tip only transfers heat through a microscopic contact point... that is actively trying to repel the solder.
Use a new heavy tip and keep temp below 400℃ (370℃ is ideal target temperature), clean, flux and "tin" (with solder) before 1st use!

Do not wire brush your Weller tip! It likely has some special plating that you do not want to wear off = destroy. Use a moist (not wet) sponge or rag to keep it clean, clean often!

All of your videos show you dripping cold solder 190℃ onto cold metal, then trying to heat it to bonding temperature, wrong! Load tip with solder, pause for 370℃ temp recovery, place tip directly against fluxed solder point and add some solder at contact point.

Oh, and piling more solder on top of a "weld" accomplishes nothing good, is wasteful and ugly - AKA LCMN.

 

[Ianhill]

Reason DA is saying clean your tip and wet the tip is to improve hest transfer the iron is at its limit on them cells and with any poor heat connection to the cell it wint dump heat fast enough to melt and form a joint but the total heat passed into the cell can still be greater with out making the joint if the iron is in contact for a longer period of time.

Maximise heat transfer reduce solder time but dint oass the vapoutising temp of the solder or it will be in the air and your lungs rather than on your tip


Its possible theres a residue on the cell from transport thats causing issues with soldering.

Ive had dirty wires in the past thats wont take to solder without been heavily fluxed first to clean them up.

I prefer to alcohol wipe everything clean first where i can but not everything is easy enough to manual clean thats where lots of flux is needed heavy doses like louis rossmann will leave a nice shiny joint.

I recommend a fume extractor even if you place a small fan blowing the fumes away from you vapourised metals can play havoc with health and melted kapton tape is toxic too.

 

[markz]

Its all been mentioned before, a horse hair brush probably can be found at a art store and 90+% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store. Scrub those 18650/26650/LTO can terminals, you could even cut the horse hair down to get more vigorous cleaning action but dont go all gung ho on in.

A pack of ten for the lint in your pocket, say $2.88
Horse hair brush https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/855.htm
99% Iso Alc https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/824-1lca.htm - Heck I used this on my bicycles brake rotors/disks just yesterday because I learned auto brake cleaner could have oils in it for preventative rust on auto brake discs. Then decided probably wrongly to wipe down the down tube from dirt with the left over iso alc rag.

 

[latecurtis]

Well I used alcohol to clean the cells after I took a wire brush and a drywall screw to the top and bottom of the cells. That worked out great last night. I then allowed at least 5 minutes to dry and use the small air purifier but should be wearing my electric mask. I have two. 1 for me and one for my wife. I ordered them back when thousands of people were dying from COVID19.

I also have full face shields. If I ever do spot weld I will be using the face shields but from now on I will use my electric mask as that lead based solder can not be healthy to breathe in. I turn the air purifier around to suck in most of the solder fumes but is not enough. Some excape in the air.

As far as cleaning I will stop using the wire brush. I will look for horse hair brushes at Wall Mart in the arts and craft section. Until then can use a sock with a hole in it. I have plenty of those and can make it damp but not too wet. Should work just fine.

I will be building the LIFEPO4 packs then. I got no e mail from battery hookup on that order but fortunately the account I set up with them was the same password as to log in my e mail so I got this.



That works for me and will be a record of the transaction on my green dot card. Maybe they are testing it or are just behind. It shows what I spent on batteries. The bottom was the 18650 cells I need to extract from those 3S life vest packs. Then there are the LIFEPO4 cells. 188 bucks. I thought it was more than that. Then the $622 is the LTOs and the 98 on top is those power modules. That is a lot of money.

The Currie needs 36V as the brush motor on the back is 36V and Bafang up front also 36V. It needs a single battery as is wired for two controllers and single throttle. I can switch off the rear chain and run the Bafang solo as the single green wire comes from the brushless controller and goes to the brush controller. Two packs will not work as no common ground.

My question is Will 12S LIFEPO4 work. I think I can fit 6S - 5P in those plastic boxes so two will be 12S - 5P LIFEPO4. I will have a 4S - LIFEPO4 left over which is - 13.2V. I would need to put the 4S pack in a front basket to run 16S - LIFEPO4. but why would I even want to ? 16S = 54.4V which is close to what the power modules will run. Since the 1,000W controller on the 26" dual suspension is 60V and 35 amps I get 35 * 60 = 2,100W.

Also the 3 kilowatt brushless controller is 60V so I am better off ordering another box of 26650 cells and building a third 6S - 5P LIFEPO4 pack for 18S LIFE for my 60V controllers.

Thanks everybody for posting.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Hey, you need a fan, any fan to blow the smoke away from you.
A 12V computer fan on a square 9V battery works fine. Go behind any computer repair or electronics store and you'll find them somewhere for free. Maybe even a microwave might have a fan, check behind thrift stores as they are not allowed to sell used microwaves due to insurance probably.
A floor stand fan pointed your way, a mini desk fan.

A fan along with your probably Chinese made, air purifier mask that is probably 50/50 in actually doing anything that you probably bought on ebay but I am not putting you down, just wondering. If I want to be sure, I'd hit up a place like Auckland Grainger that sells authentic safety equipment from companies like 3M, is all I am saying. I think I've seen those masks with fans in them that your probably using, but I dont trust anything on ebay, amazon when it comes to safety, like buying food on those platforms, baby toys, any clothing, pillows, bedding or anything that comes in contact with skin. Just have no idea whats counterfeit, whats been messed with. Could have a banned fire retardant in pillows that they want to get rid of rather then risk dumping it down the drain and getting caught.

 

[latecurtis]

Air purifier works ok. (bottom pic) Has two speed settings. Yea I could use a second fan but with an electric mask I should be ok. Just need to put what I am soldering closer to the back of the air purifier.

OK. I am happy I can solder a wire to each cell and will be strong solder joints.

However there is more to building the packs than soldering to a cell.

The 12 gauge wire is most difficult to work with. In fact when stripping it it comes apart. Therefore will need to twist two 16 gauge pieces together then wrap each wire from the cells around it and a third 16 gauge around everything and then flux and solder.

Think of the time all that is going to take me. I have to do that for the positive and negative for each cell bank. That is 24 times for a 12S pack. 32 times for 16S and 36 times for three 6S - 5P packs. That is ridiculous to say the least. I might have a pack built by Christmas. That is why spot welding nickel strips is way better.

I will do it as I have no choice but the offer is on the table for the spot welder mods. Whoever wants to do it I will send them a spot welder for them to MOD and use.

I just want something that is tested for safety and the perfect power setting. Also the perfect battery. If I need to order a LiPo battery I will but if other safer options I am all ears.

If anyone is interested please let me know. Until then I will just keep going. No more videos soldering or building packs though. It is a big distraction.

I will though post about a half a dozen you tube videos of the mods they are doing for the cheap e bay spot welder like the one I bought.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I gave you a link to a tested spot welder, its the avdweb site I linked to.

That guy tests a bunch of different things, has a technical mind, and knowledge.
And, he just upgraded the spot welder from his old design.
I would show you a picture of his old design that I bought. I went to the back of a Value Village and grabbed a microwave for its big transformer, then I cut it open, ripped out one side, got welding cable to wrap, bought his pcb board, bought his programmed icu chip and went to a electronics parts store online, probably mouser.com for all the parts needed from a list provided. Would have been cheaper to buy that, you could even get a company to populate the board for you, meaning install all the resistors, caps, inductors, switches.

 

[latecurtis]

sounds great. I also did an independent search here and found a guy who actually builds packs but he only deals with brand new cells. He supplies the cells and wont do used 18650s or re soldered 26650. He did post a link to the spot welder kit that is simple to put together and way better than the cheap e bay welders. He is an ES member and I PMd him and he messaged me back. It could be the same guy. I will check it out.

https://www.keenlab.de/index.php/product/kweld-complete-kit/

I was thinking awhile walking though that with a small 3S LiPo battery I could run the spot cheap e bay welder anywhere outside. Why not set it up at a park on a picnic table. I can bring my little fire extinguisher and buy some two foot 4 gauge or 1 gauge cables so the spot welder is at least two feet away and a foot from the LiPo battery. Then put safety glasses on and electricians gloves. If the cheap $24 unit decides to explode or catch on fire I am only out $24 bucks.

The kit I found and MarkZ posted is safe to use inside though. So basically the deal is on the table. Even if you got a decent safe home spot welder that plugs in to AC it would not hurt to have a portable mini unit you can take anywhere.


I ordered cell ring protectors for 18650 and 26650 but still waiting on the 26650.



cardboard though I think. Not sure how much protection that will give. Hopefully I can solder the nickel strips to the bottoms of all cells. 26650 and 18650 as I got a lot of nickel strip. That way I only have to solder wires to the top. In fact was thinking awhile I was walking I might be able to speed things up for the wire on the top as well. I am about to build one that will solder to the cells. It is 10:52 now so we will see how long one will take.

Note it is not just three pieces of 16 gauge wire side by side. The second two strands of wire are longer so wrap around the first so should be = to a single 10 gauge piece of wire.



That above is only good for about 600 to 800 watts. I think my new method should do 3 kilowatts.

11:10 PM. Was my first one so 18 minutes. Should be able to cut that down to around 10 minutes once I do several of them. Wont work though with 10 or 12 gauge so will be using 16 gauge but three of them. first one long enough to bend the wire for each cell connection. Then wrap the other two pieces around the first for at least 60 amps I would guess. I will show a pic. of the next one before I wrap with electric tape.



Now instead of soldering a single wire to each cell I can solder that to the top of each cell and get four times the amps as the single 16 gauge wire.

I tried hot glue between the cells but due to the space did not work. I am going with my original build method and use thin strips of electric tape which I stretch then the long thin strip of gorilla tape over the top. The space between the cells will be great for heat dissipation. Hot glue and the cells touching is not the best method. Neither are cell spacers as then the pack will take up at least 20% more space.



They will stack six high and the banks will not touch either just like cell spacers but less space , then can zip tie the pack together. I will wait for the flux for the series connections as flux works great when soldering two wires together.

As far as the new COVID 19 cases Me and my wife got the J &J vaccine about 6 or 7 weeks ago. J & J is based on 50 year old proven technology but modified for the spike protein. No update on a booster. J & J was the one shot deal but if they do make a booster for the variant we will be getting it for sure. Most places do not require masks.

A few people are wearing them but most people don't. I wear a cloth mask now instead of the electric but only when there is lots of people like Wall-Mart and little convivence stores. I like it I can actually sit down in a restaurant and eat as long as people are about 20 feet away. I was hoping this COVID shit was over but guess not.

Thanks everyone for posting.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I rode the dual Bafangs on the 26" Diamondback Outlook today to see how they would do up the hills on my 4 - 1/2 mile trip out in the country to the cannabis dispensary. I shot a video with the 1,800W brushless motor about two months ago and the 20" DimondBack Viper a weeks ago I think.

It is perfect for testing top speed as well as hill climbing ability on moderate size hills. It is just like I thought. The 26" dual Bafang hub motors rated at 350W each out performed the 20" Turbo with the 10S battery pack. That is the battery pack I used when I ran the 20" direct dive. I did not make that same trip with the 13S pack yet hooked to the 20" direct drive.

I am pretty sure the 20" direct drive will be about the same power at 13S as the dual Bafangs at 10S. At 10S the 20" direct drive slowed down to around 5 mph up the hills. The Dual Bafangs slowed down to 14 mph. 20 mph on flat. Nothing happens past 1/2 throttle as with two hub motors each geared for 20 mph.

There were a few dark clouds lurking but the weather said like only a 2% chance of rain. I heard it is going to rain tomorrow. Anyway I shot the video. It came out great. It was a perfect day to ride. About 65 degrees and did not rain a drop.

Here is the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC25t3QXUm8

I want to take the 26" dual suspension on the same trip as well as the Currie when I get the two - 6S LIFEPO4 packs built. 12 * 3.453V = 41.16V. Yea. Perfect for the Currie. I will need three 6S LIFE packs for 60V. I just hope I did not destroy the 26650 cells from when I soldered them before I got the Weller iron. I wish I waited.

I did a iR test on unsoldered cells that were 3.43V and was lower than the cells I soldered that were 3.35V so the iR is higher than the unsoldered cells. Not double but higher. I guess I will know when I get them built. Out of 80 cells 50 were soldered and 30 were not.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Please , someone please let me know if this is a scam or not ?????

You all know I am in love with this motor and been looking at them for awhile now.

I found this today and want to know if it is a scam or for real.

https://www.muzejgmz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=109736



Please let me know as I will need two for a dual hub motor set up and 4 kilowatts. Perfect for the two power modules on the way. If I build that it will be all over for those pesky little mini bikes and the go cart that burn gas and make too much noise. they need to be taught a lesson. Electric power is superior.

The power modules will be here Thursday and will need to order the BMSa so have some time but do not want to lose out on the motors. Is it a big scam or not.




https://www.muzejgmz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=109736




Please let me know. I checked and do not see a phone number. I want to know if this is real or a scam as if it is a scam it needs to be reported A.S.A.P so good people do not get robbed.

However if by some slight chance it is real then I need to haul ass to Wall-Mart and put at least $200 on my card as I want two of those. Maybe three.

Already looking at down hill forks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mctjXPhPPeo

I might not need one on the front though. One on the back of the 700c hybrid might be fast enough to beat the dirt bikes and go cart. However I am exploring all options. I could put one on the back of the dual suspension and use the 1,000W hub motor on the silver Diamondback. Either way I want two of them. I am about to look up BMCs number to see if they know if the company is legitimate.



I talked to someone at BMC. An older guy who had an accent so could barley understand him but it has been over a year since they were manufactured I guess. I had no luck with the fraud hotline but did find this website checker.

I really wish DA. or someone would post as if I miss out on these motors I will be irate. I do not want to get scammed but would really like at least two of those. Maybe even three.

https://www.bmcmotor.com/contact

That is the number I called and talked with the older guy but could not really understand him. I figured someone there would know if they sold a bunch of those at wholesale. Like 500 or 1,000 units. The only way a low price like that could be explained.

Pleeeeeeeeeease let me know.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

If you can pay on paypal it will be much better, but if its to good to be true, its probably a scam.

Also if you check to see what their shipping price is, sometimes they will jack it real high to compensate for the low low product price.

 

[latecurtis]

but if its to good to be true, its probably a scam.

Yea. That's what I am thinking.

I went about 15 miles of so yesterday to the bike shop , then to Burger King and back home and took all back roads and found some new trails. I had my GPS phone app. so I did not get lost. Trying to stay off main roads. I took the 20" Turbo and both the 13S and 10S packs.

I picked up a brake cable and the plastic piece that goes inside the brake lever. I will have the guy down stairs fix it tomorrow. I have been up all night working on the LIFEPO4 packs. Been soldering and taping and know there were a few spots here and there where the top ring was compromised due to my previous sloppy solder attempts so made sure nothing can short.

Notice the way I wrapped the wire around so that it will be equal to 10 gauge wire. I will need an 80 amp fuse when I am finished. I will be hooking up the series connections tomorrow when the liquid tape is completely dry. I will also be hooking up a 6S balance plug.

The second 6S pack will be so much easier as can use the cells from the solderless pack that have never been soldered. I spent too much money to not run them. I will need a BMS for those power modules. They shipped them out. They will be here any day now.

I wish I could get more information on those BMC motors. Maybe I will call BMC again and see if I can get someone who speaks clearer. I think the guy said they stopped making them because everyone was ordering Chinese motors. That is a DAMM shame an American company can not compete with China. Frankly I think we should NUKE that country to HELL. frock them. We should be able to manufacture our own shit.

Maybe use the Neutron bomb so it just wipes out all the people there and leaves the buildings standing. Then when the radiation settles we go take all their factories and manufacturing. If the Chinese are all gone there will be more jobs for us. :lol: People here who are unemployed can take their families and go over there and work for 6 months then come back here for two or three months then go back. It would also be great for the airline business. Nobody would have to go without a job.

That is what they are trying to to do to us. Wipe us all out with their bio weapon so they can send people here. The way I see it it is either them or us. The planet is not big enough for the Chinese and everybody else. Something has to give.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

That is a DAMM shame an American company can not compete with China. Frankly I think we should NUKE that country to HELL. frock them. We should be able to manufacture our own shit.

Maybe use the Neutron bomb so it just wipes out all the people there and leaves the buildings standing. Then when the radiation settles we go take all their factories and manufacturing. If the Chinese are all gone there will be more jobs for us. :lol: People here who are unemployed can take their families and go over there and work for 6 months then come back here for two or three months then go back. It would also be great for the airline business. Nobody would have to go without a job.

That is what they are trying to to do to us. Wipe us all out with their bio weapon so they can send people here. The way I see it it is either them or us. The planet is not big enough for the Chinese and everybody else. Something has to give.

What the hell is wrong with you? You could be both drunk and mentally deficient, and still do better than that.

 

[latecurtis]

What the hell is wrong with you? You could be both drunk and mentally deficient, and still do better than that.

Well at this point the only thing that matters is the solder joints stick and can I put 50 or 60 amps thru the wiring and I believe the answer to both questions is yes. Maybe the liquid tape on the top of the cells was over kill but I wont need to do that for the next 6S pack as I did not screw them up soldering before I bought the Weller.

I could not even strip 12 or 10 gauge wire. I had to use the 16 gauge wire as could not even melt the insulation on the 10 gauge. The 10 and 12 gauge wire is to re wire connections from the battery to controller and DC breaker switch. It is too brittle and breaks and falls apart.

All I care about at this point is a 36V battery which can run the 1,000 watt chain drive and 350W Bafang with a single battery. I did not waste my money on the factory 10S - 8P pack I have been running as it can run the dual Bafang motors as well as back up for the 800W 20" turbo I rode yesterday. However for 1,000W + A better battery is needed and that is where the two 6S LIFEPO4 packs come into play. A third 6S - LIFEPO4 pack will run the 26" hub motor at 60V and can finally get some real power out of that. Also the 1,800W and 3 kilowatt brushless motors.

Those series connections and the battery wiring are equal to 10 gauge wire even if they do not look pretty. It really wont matter as each 6S pack will be inside the black hard plastic battery boxes. Note I did not cover any solder joints with hot glue or liquid tape. Just the rim around the top. I did not cover the ventilation either as was careful. Just the wiring and outside edges where the insulation ring is to avoid shorts. I will be able to pull the packs out of the box at any time and inspect the solder joints. That is what I hated most about the solderless packs besides the space they took up.

Test run for 12S LIFEPO4 should be by the end of the week. I might build the 4S pack as well for 16S but plan on ordering two more boxes this month for 18S - 60V. I also plan on going 40 mph and hopefully beating those pesky gas powered mini bikes and go cart that rolls around in my neighborhood and makes all that noise.

OK maybe I was a little excessive on killing all the people in China but the government and scientists in the bio labs just got to go. The Chinese people over there deserve a better government. Even if Russia and the US were to split their country and absorb their economy their people would be treated better. I would rather live in Russia than China. In Russia as long as you do not piss off Putin you should be good. The stupidest man on planet Earth is Alexei Navalny. The guy on the news who started a anti Putin movement. He got poisoned on an airplane or something. What did he expect would happen going up against the most powerful man on the planet.

Russia is the #1 super power not the US. The best thing the US could do is try to maintain positive relations with Russia and make a deal with them to take out the Chinese government and split the country in half. I think it would be a giant step towards world peace. The president of China is exactly like Hitler. World domination is his #1 agenda and so far it is China 4.25 million and the rest of the world 0.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Ianhill]

I gonna be honest with you, stop buy a battery thats complete or with terminals your not saving nothing your costing yourself dearly in the long run.

The wires are connected on the left of one cell the right on the next theres no methodical apporach or you just wouldn't do it like this.

I wouldn't worry to much about china or Russia worry about yourself please take time to clear your mind find a beach or mountain top.

 

[latecurtis]

I gonna be honest with you, stop buy a battery thats complete or with terminals your not saving nothing your costing yourself dearly in the long run.

The wires are connected on the left of one cell the right on the next theres no methodical apporach or you just wouldn't do it like this.

I need to keep the positives and negatives from each cell bank far apart from each other when stacking. They will stack 6 high and be zip tied together.

I still have to make the series connections and balance wires. I have plenty of wire , electric , gorilla and liquid tape. There will be NO shorts. All the balance leads will be soldered in and the pack will work perfect. That is a fact.

I already built two 6S packs and a 4S with balance leads and balance charged them but 9 out of 10 of the negative solder joints failed and easily peeled off. Also the wiring was only good for about 10 or 15 amps. Now I can run 50 or 60 amps.

If I were more comfortable with electricity I would have tried out my spot welder but scared of getting zapped or starting a fire with insane voltage and cheap Chinese electronics. I offered DA money to build the packs but he declined. I did not go with cell holders as I want these packs to fit inside my impact resistant black boxes.

I will probably use more liquid tape as well as electric tape to make sure no bare wires touch so 0 % chance of shorts. The packs will work and last a long time. That is a fact.

It is like I said you wont see the wiring unless you open the box and pull out the pack. All that is important is the solder joints , wiring and no shorts. I am not covering the solder joints so I can pull the packs out and inspect them from time to time but with the Weller I doubt I will have to re-solder. There was a bank or two that was sloppy soldering as I got the hang of the big tip but I do think the solder stuck. It just is not pretty but don't matter in the boxes unless you have X ray vision.

Right now I am charging both my 10S - 8P and 13S - 7P packs that I bought. I take safety seriously as you see I charge the lithium ion inside metal pails just in case one starts on fire. I have a fire extinguisher handy and am about to buy a second just in case. I am scared to death of electric shock as well and why the negative and positive of each cell bank are far enough away they can not touch. If I could have paid someone 100 bucks to build the packs I would have.

I want to get the hell out of the house and go for a walk but not about leaving here with the packs on the charger as if something happened my poor wife would not know what to do. I never leave when batteries are charging. The 13S pack was fuly charged to 4.2V per cell yesterday before the trip but it has been several times I run the 10S pack since a full charge and for balance purposes the pack needs the full 4.2V charge as a BMS can not balance properly at a lower voltage so every 3 to 4 times I make short runs I fully charge.

However once fully charged to 4.2V per cell the packs need to be run A.S.A.P or cell life will depreciate. I should be able to get at least 2,000 charge cycles but if I let the packs sit around for days at 4.2V I will be lucky to get 500 cycles.



I want to go to Wall-Mart tonight and am hoping the light turns green on the 42V charger soon or will be too late to go. It is why any pack I build will have balance leads so I can externally balance when needed or balance charge with one of my LiPo chargers. The chargers do get kind of hot so I put them directly in front of the little fan to keep them cool when charging.

I would be hooking up the balance wires and series connections now but without that little fan about a foot or two away blowing air directly on me it is too hot and stuffy in that little closet. I will do it later after the packs charge as need the fan to suck up the fumes when soldering and melting insulation from wires. It is a tiny air purifier not a fan but has a fan in the front. Perfect for the things I use it for.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.amazon.com/Heltec-Capacitor-Equalizer-Balancer-Titanate/dp/B08JC8VQ46



Well since I have spent a fortune on batteries this year and the 13S power modules will be here today plus the fact I own LTOs and LIFEPO4 I am building I really would like to save a few bucks if possible.

This question is for DA. but if anyone wants to voice their opinion I will hear it. A 80 or 100 amp BMS for the power modules will set me back a good 100 bucks or so. Then there is the LTOs. The LIFEPO4 I can balance charge two or three 6S packs but will have to do them separate unless I get a parallel board.

I was wondering if there was a way to bulk charge all three battery types and use one balancer to balance any/all of them. That is what I found. LTO BMSs are not cheap and neither are the LIFEPO4s so If that could work I could save hundreds of bucks.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

1.5A active Balancer for any type upto 17s.
Not a BMS

For defective battery builds!
I properly, often with recycled cells, build batteries that need no balancing ... for hundreds of cycles!

 

[latecurtis]

I have two questions

One is I am looking for some Bluetooth thing that tells you everything about the batteries when I am running them.




Then there is this video.

When I ordered the power modules I was not aware I had to take the circuit board off the modules. I thought all I had to do was hook up the balance leads.

I will be picking them up today. they are at Walgreens now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nn7EWmLs1k

The video shows how to take the circuit board off.

I want to hook active equalizer / balancer with the Bluetooth to see all the cells and iR and everything. I would like one for my 6S LIFE packs as well. I can still charge the LIFE and LTO with my LiPo chargers but can only balance at 6S but with a good external Bluetooth active equalizer balancer I can go up to 13S with the power modules or 15S with LTOs.

There are a lot of these Bluetooth balancer/monitors. I need 6S for the LIFE packs as doing three 6S then one for 13S and one for 15S if I build the 15S LTO pack. Or is there a single unit that can do all three. 6S will work for two 6S packs or three 6S packs.

For now though just the 6S and 13S as that is what I am working with now. I can worry about 15S LTOs later.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Jumping well ahead again, perhaps take a step back and look at all your options.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.


I am balance charging 6S - LIFEPO4.

I will build one more exactly like it for 12S > 41V fully charged and hook it up to the Currie which has the 1,000W 36V rear chain and 36V - 350W Bafang with the two DC breakers , single throttle which requires the single battery pack to run. I will use it exclusively for the Currie.

The factory 10S - 8P pack is not enough for the Currie. I will get better life out it just running the dual Bafangs on the Diamondback Outlook and the single Bafang on the front of the 26" dual suspension.

My factory 13S - 20 Ah battery seems to be absolutely perfect for the 20" - 800 watt hub motor on the 20" Turbo. I will get the best lifespan and performance running that battery exclusively for that,

The new 13S power modules can run both the 1,000W - 26" hub motor on the back of the dual suspension as well as the 1,800W brushless motor and 1,500W controller on the other 20" bike.

I am thinking a sturdy rear rack for the Haro V3 and split up the LTOs. Put 9 in the rear rack and 15 in the frame for 60V - LTO and hook up the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and 70 amp controller for 46 or 47 mph gearing. All my e bikes and motors will then have their own batteries.

I spent close to $1,000 bucks on all these batteries so will need to get them all hooked up and running. If I can't beat that pesky go cart and those mini bikes with the 1,800W brushless motor then I will race them with the 3 kilowatt motor and LTOs when I build the Haro V3.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

48mph is crazy man
Your Loco Esse

$1000 for how many Wh of battery?

for 46 or 47 mph gearing. All my e bikes and motors will then have their own batteries.

I spent close to $1,000 bucks on all these batteries so will need to get them all hooked up and running.

 

[latecurtis]

So far I only have the one 6S - 5P pack built. I have a lot of work to do. I built two 6S packs from the LIFEPO4 cells and a 4S pack but they were built ALL WRONG !!!! The wiring was only good for < 20 amps and the solderless 6S pack was HUGE so had to tear all three packs apart and start over when I got the Weller. About 4 out of 5 of the negative solder joints easily peeled right off so am glad I did start over but this is taking FOREVER !!!!! But on the positive side I am learning a lot.

Out of all three battery technologies I think the LIFEPO4s could be the best for future battery builds. But need to actually run them before I am positive on that. The reason is cell life and safety. LIFEPO4 is better in BOTH ways to Lion and LTOs just take up too much space and weigh too much for most e bike applications. I might never use them for an e bike. I actually bought the LTOs for the FX-75-5 motor and plan on mounting them in a motor cycle frame but will need a few more for 80V. I have 24 which = 60V.

One thing I do not like about the 13S power modules is their size. Way too big !!!!!!!

The video on the page of DAs link shows the guy putting each one in an even larger metal enclosure. I do not like and would never use a metal or steel enclosure for any battery. The guy made extensive modifications to the metal box to avoid shorts. I prefer high impact plastic like I try to use for all my batteries.

I bought a plastic box especially for 15 LTO batteries in the automotive section at Wall-Mart. I was going to hook up 15 for the Currie but instead will run 12S - LIFEPO4. I am using the box to store balancers and loose 18650 cells and zip ties. :lol: At least it will serve a purpose.





I used those wooden separators for the LIFEPO4s so the cell banks are separated. Even if I were to wipe out and the plastic box were to take a beating there is no movement. The LIFEPO4s are in that box TIGHT but made sure the balance wires were taped and secure and soldered directly to the series connections. I even hooked up the balancer just before soldering and taping everything up.

Basically I have no reason to ever remove the cells from the box as I used balance extensions and can always monitor the health of the pack. I want to do the same with the battery modules but will need the correct size high impact plastic box. Since I am running two modules a single piece of wood the same dimensions of the modules will go between them and the width of the plastic box will need to be very close to the width of the two modules and the wood separator.

The height of the separator and the box needs to be about 1 inch more than the module though as then can drill small holes in the wood to feed the BMS wires thru as will be taking DAs advice and using one BMS for both modules.

I will need to measure the modules next and then search online for impact resistant plastic storage boxes. If anyone has a link to post by all means please do. I also want a BMS that is at least 80 amps and Bluetooth so I can use an app. on my android smart phone and see all cell voltages.

Right now though I need one more LIFEPO4 pack for 12S and run the Currie,

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Out of all three battery technologies I think the LIFEPO4s could be the best for future battery builds.

Well, LiFePO₄ is about twice as expensive, twice as heavy and twice as bulky as LiCoO₂ but it can last many more cycles if you intend on running charge\discharge cycles continuously (multiple cycles per day?), otherwise age deterioration will degrade cells, possibly as bad as lighter, cheaper LiCoO₂ with voltage reduced for greater lifespan.

 

[latecurtis]

I am watching youtube videos on 3D printers.

I was originally going to build battery packs solderless using 3D printed cell holders.

Two reasons I did not like solderless packs was size and relying on compression of zip ties to make sure each battery connection is true.

If cell holders could be 3D printed then tiny chips for each individual cell could transmit signals to a smart phone for information on each cell not just the cell bank (multiple cells in parallel) like the Bluetooth BMSs do now.

If there are 140 cells in a 14S - 10P Lion pack I would love to be able to see not only voltage but also iR and capacity of all 140 cells simply by scrolling down on a phone , laptop or desktop. It just makes sense.

A wireless Bluetooth BMS combined with a solderless pack. HMMMMM. Sounds like a future device. Some smart folk are probably working on it as we speak. It would be improbable to think otherwise.

Since all cells in a pack do not reach the end of their lifespan at the same time the cells that need replacement would show up red on a phone or computer screen display. Since no solder , could pop a used cell and replace in under 1 minute. You would get the maximum lifespan from not only each pack but each cell in each pack.

That plus would not need to hook up any balance wires. 140 balance wires is a major deal breaker. Cell holders with a chip for each cell may cost a lot but could last 50 years or more. Just would have to keep replacing the bad cells with new.

My guess is that my old 10S - 10P hoverboard packs either do or will end up with bad cells. Recycling all 100 cells is more desirable than breaking all five 10S - 2P packs down and testing every cell for capacity and iR.

More likely most packs that are recycled have more good cells than bad cells. probably like 5 or 6 to 1 I would imagine. The good cells could do 100 to 500 more cycles.

Any comments DA ???

Maybe you could invent such a wireless BMS with chips in solderless cell holders. Then I could get a cheap 3D printer and start printing them out. We could make millions !!!!!!!

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.